Erny

I also found Tammie's studies difficult to see the point of. In response to my question to her, Tammie confirmed that "teasing out the prior environmental experiences of the dogs who were used for the purpose of her studies" (which of course could and probably would have had an influence on their reactions/behaviour in the practical component of her 'test') was "not the point [of her study]". If that aspect of the dog is not being considered (note : it was acknowledged, but not taken into account) then I can't see what she is striving to achieve from the rest of her study. What bothers me is the amount of Government funding that is going into studies such as these. I mean, good on Tammie and the rest of the other students for studying and researching, but I don't see what value there is to either their 'learning' or to our community of dogs and people if the results of the studies are meaningless. I'm sorry, Tammie, if I have lost the point of what you were trying to achieve. There was one girl (I'm sorry - forgotten her name) who did a study the results of which indicate that a "Jump Test" can help predict which dogs would do well as a Guide Dog. I found that concept very interesting and to me, that study is very worthwhile because if the results remain true, it can save the community a lot of money, time and effort and ultimately help the very people for whom these dogs are trained.

I found this to be a somewhat contradicted point of view expressed within the presentations given on the day. On one hand they are saying "desex, desex, desex" yet on the other hand they say that's not good because the effect of desexing reduces the gene pool, and to desex a dog so young means that we don't really know if we're desexing the really good dogs who could have contributed good things back to the 'line' later on.

I think the ideal is a private lesson first. This allows YOU to learn and get used to some handling skills (and of course, in turn that increases your dog's learning and skills) without having to simultaneously deal with a dog who is distracted. Also makes it a bit easier for the dog too, as you will have begun to show him what to do, so it won't be a completely foreign concept for him to have to try to learn whilst under distraction. When that's good enough (shouldn't take too long) then go to class. BUT, you'd need to check to see if the private lesson trainer doesn't teach you methods that conflict with the methods of the school you think you'll go to as this might serve to confuse you and potentially your dog. Of course, the above is the more expensive way to go. If your dog is not too bad and if you've had some experience in the past, then you might just get away well with joining up to class first. What you could do is try the group training but if you find it all too much, opt for a private lesson to give you a leg-up, so to speak.

And I hope it remains that way, Dogslife. My brother lost his dog as he was coming out of the affects of GA. It is only one. But it is one I will never forget, so the concern remains quite strong for me.

Agree with Nekhbet, Zeping. E-collar training, done properly, is fantastic and brings with it fantastic results. But my stance on training is that it is about teaching the dog what TO do first (whether you're using e-collar or any other form of training collar). How would you envisage utilising the e-collar on the dog in the OP's instance?

Why would I want to train in an environment where I knew there was a reasonable chance to fail? Makes sense to me to get it right (and when using drive, I mean "addicted") and gradually increase the distractions and their intensity. I see that as setting the dog up to win rather than to fail and it means I'm not setting up learnt behaviours that I then have to work against (which is hardly the best thing for the dog even though I might have had to do it) to overcome the unreliability that I would have cultivated. I use this philosophy not only with my own dog but also with the hundreds that I have worked with over the years. It is important that my dog works for me (but enthusiastically) and not me for him. In the latter case, control is lost and that's a big part of the problem with many off-lead dogs these days. What I really love about drive work is that it really develops that team-manship. If I put my dog in a situation where there was a good probability of failure, then I'm letting the team down, IMO. ETA: OT .... I know some use the word, but I hate the word "drivey". Probably just a 'me' thing. Thought I'd share it, though .

Close your hand to a tight fist and with the flat of your fingers from the other hand, run them across the knuckles of the fisted hand. You will feel every knuckle, along with the divots in between. That's too thin. Now, open the fisted hand so that it is flat, and run the flat of your fingers of your other hand over your knuckles. You will feel them without needing to push down heavily. That's a good weight indication. Now, turn the once fisted but now opened hand so that it is palm up and run the flat of your fingers over the palm pads that are directly under the knuckles. You won't feel the knuckles without pressing. That's too fat. The dog should have a light covering over its hip bones and looking down at the dog from above you should be able to see a waist. If you can tick the boxes to each of the above, then I would suggest your dog is right weight. This is a generalisation of course (and it does rely on people not having hands that are too pudgy), but it is pretty spot on IMO. I only use weight scales to assess how much a dog is gaining or losing (when I need to moderate weight gain/loss) per week or so, or when I might need to work out medication dosage. Other than that I don't bother with it and I use visual assessment as my guide.

That can depend on the Vet as well. I have seen some dogs that I would describe as fat verging obese, yet informed by the owners the Vet has told them the dog looks fine, weight wise. If the Vets go by scale and then by the average only, or if the Vet is going by what they are used to seeing, this can give misleading information to the dog owner.

Antibiotics are not necessary unless there develops a secondary infection. Otherwise, the antibiotics get given for no good reason, which of course only builds up resistance for when they might be needed (IMO). My boy developed Canine Cough when he was a youngster. I kept him home and quiet and dosed him several times a day during the term of the cough (which for him only lasted 24 hours). He was over the whole thing (symptomatically speaking) within 48 hours and I kept dosing him with the Active Manuka Honey (UMF 20+ or higher) at least once a day for the remainder of the week. Drinking from communal drinking water vessels is something I too avoid.

Ahhh, the Shiba. Have only worked with two or three but found they were a bit of a contradiction in terms, if I was to describe their personalities. Sensitive, yet willful little souls. Glad he settled.

Perhaps he felt atmospheric pressure change ? It is possible. It might be that, or perhaps there is a storm on its way. Try just keeping him on the lead to stop him moving around, and ignore his fussing. Actually, try putting him through some training routines - sit; drop; stand; shake paw; etc. IE Give him jobs to do/make him work. If he'll work for you 'in drive' all the better. I sometimes do that when my boy starts acting stressy and it does seem to make a difference to him settling back down.

Mandela's update : Hives all but gone. Weight/appetite improved, but not stable at the moment. Stools nice and firm ( .... it's such a joy to not have to scrape them out of the grass). Coat improving (in terms of hair re-growth and shine). Naturopath saw him today and was really happy (surprised?) with how much he has improved. Using natural/homeopathic treatments (via Jacqueline/Naturopath and Barry/Hair Analysis guy) we are targetting : Liver function Detoxification Sore/irritated stomach Adrenal support Digestion

Oh yes, yes!! Count me in. Andrisa will come too . And we won't have to even worry about dogs being banned at street cafes due to the possibility of a stray dog hair, or be judged and/or victimised because we recognise the benefits of PPCollars and E-Collar training, or whether our leads are 1.5 metres long rather than 1 metre, or ... .

Leadership. Put him on lead to stop him pacing and don't over fuss. Tell him "enough". And if he continues, tell him he's being silly.

I have a solution . Put an anti-bark collar on the cat.

Well actually, given the way of numerous laws that affect different States in different ways, it would be easier if we lived closer to the border of New Zealand. Shall we fly, or take a cruise ;) ?

Unfortunately, there are numerous areas in the dog world where the law simply sucks and isn't necessarily a good thing for animal welfare, especially when they are made by people who don't fully understand it, and/or pushed for by those who might have an ulterior motive for doing so. But fair enough and thanks for your explanation, SG. Schutzhund is an absolutely fine and very disciplined sport - disciplined for the handlers and producing dogs with very high precision in obedience. The dogs need to have suitable temperament to be able to complete all components of the sport. Some people don't like it when their dogs prove not to have the 'stuff' required to be able to achieve the extraordinary heights of training and soundness that Schutzhund demands.

Does "animal welfare" come into this anywhere?

..... so, you wanna car-pool when we leave? LOL OT : Look at little cutie black boy in your avatar. Bet he's grown somewhat since I saw your litter .

Aaahhhh - that's right. Sorry, I knew it started with "T".

What Nekhbet said. If you're not the slightest bit interested in the sport, would you mind letting us know why you want to know?

I don't generally clicker train, but when I do I use an i-clicker. Don't be nervous about it SBT303. It is basically about 'clicking' at the place and time that you might normally say "yes" (ie the exact moment the dog does a behaviour that you want to reinforce so that he/she will repeat and learn it). It does help in improving people's timing of reinforcement. But I sometimes find that people stop using body language (eg. facial expression) when they use the clicker. I like using body language and facial expression with training. But that's me .

Yeah - I realise, and I am very opposed to unnecessary GA and do whatever I can to avoid it, even with a healthy animal. But IF they do go ahead with the GA, being able to check this bitch out without using the surgical knife will mean that her body has to deal only with the affects of the GA (assuming she makes it) and not also with having to heal the surgical wounds.

I'd go with the ultrasound, if possible. If not that (for whatever their reasoning) then can't they do the GA with the dog being 'more well' and do an internal? IE Do they really have to surgically open her up to see? Pardon my ignorance if this is a really dumb question. Apart from the above, I get the impression from reading that the job has already been done? If so, what was the outcome? ETA: I agree with WM that the best would be to go the extra yards and find someone who could and would provide the ultrasound service.