Erny

How come?

Do you train in drive?

My thoughts too. Even if the dog was younger, I would seriously be looking to NOT vaccinate a dog especially one whose health is already compromised. ETA: You have to wonder why we are seeing so many dogs with conditions such as Cushings etc.

Thanks. I'll follow it through.

Thanks Pip. But none of those as I remember. This one had like a double front which formed a really BIG pocket even though you couldn't tell it was there by looking. It had other pockets as well but I'm not so sure that it had as many/was as bulky as the ones shown in that link. I know how to contact one of the people in the group who showed me the vest in the first place, so I think I'll have to re-hunt it down that way.

Applying some Paw Paw Ointment after the salt water wash might help (soothing & healing).

What vests? ;)

Think of the weather - I don't mean her feeling cold so much but what weather is 'coming in'. Is there a pattern to be had there? For example : rain coming in pairing with noise on a decking roof = anxiety. Does this make sense?

I saw one which was exactly what I wanted. It was apparently a "Thomas Cooke" brand. I've been on their website but can't find it and need to make some more enquiries to track it down. Like a denim vest but with a good number of pockets (including big ones for things such as tugs). If anyone finds this jacket before I do, please let me know .

Hi LoyalK9. Genetics play a part in how our dogs 'are' and whilst we can't remove genetics, we can work on making the best of the best genetics they have and countering the others. Your pup hasn't had the best start with the accidental trauma that occurred - must have been a daunting and very frightening experience (evidenced by the fear defecation). I feel for him. We can't make up for insufficient or inappropriate early socialisation, but it is possible to help them become more confident about things in their life. And of course, the more confident we can help them be, the more able they are able to cope with different other things and so we can eventually open up their lives and broaden the horizon for them. By the sounds of it, your dog needs careful help and you need help in being able to provide that to her. It makes it all less overwhelming (for both human and dog) if you come to know what to do and when, both from a pro-active and if necessary a reactive point of view. The usual things such as leadership and desensitisation of course is going to be suggested - but given she is so fearful and aggression is involved, I would strongly recommend that you arrange to have a professional behaviourist (one who is well experienced in canine fear and fear aggression behaviours) to come out to see you both. My previous girl (pictured in my avatar, bless her cotton socks) was adopted and came to me very fearful of unfamiliar people and aggressive to unfamiliar dogs. Admittedly she never defecated (perhaps because I never allowed her to be in a position where she could or would feel so threatened/frightened) but her fear was more than mild. Shaking, cowering, eyes wide like saucers, salivating .... to name a few. All dogs are individuals of course, but I can tell you that with work and understanding she developed to a dog who whilst always tentative with unfamiliar people, was able to cope with a pat (and sometimes even asked for one) and was also able to manage a greeting with friendly dogs. To recognise her stress levels diminish was a comfort, not only to me but of course, to her. When I adopted her, she was 7 years old. Of course, I've worked with many varied 'frightened' dogs since then with varying degrees of success - but ALWAYS with improvement. Sometimes progress is slow, sometimes surprisingly fast. Much depends on the individual dog and the individual owner, who of course is the one who puts in the time and effort to help their fearful dog. The point of this is that it is highly possible that you will be able to apply strategies to help increase her confidence and her ability to cope with the world. I don't know where you reside but if you would give an idea as to your locality we can make some suggestions for known behaviourists that are perhaps close enough to you. I generally work the South Eastern suburbs of Melbourne/Victoria. Where necessary I travel a fair distance although it works out more economical if I am able to recommend other behaviourist/s closer in to the client. No-one can take the genetics out of your dog. No one can change the traumatic experiences your dog has already encountered. But a good desensitisation and confidence building plan and strategy can be structured to help you help her, if you would like the assistance.

Sorry to the OP. Our silliness is of no assistance to the problem expressed. But like others, I would recommend some help be obtained from a professional who would be able to confirm what is required and show how to apply the prescribed techniques, as well as offer explanation about what is happening. Methods to give you more calm control in times of what I presume is excitement (Note : presumption is not good enough which is why having someone actually see the dog is recommended) around other people. I also wholeheartedly agree with Kelpie-i (even though she speaks funny) that training in drive would be an excellent technique to use as an aid towards improving the dog's behaviour. Training in drive (done properly) teaches the dog that drive satisfaction comes from you and provides an outlet for that drive. Potentially, working with an e-collar on low stim and negative reinforcement can also go a long way towards teaching dogs not to be interested in chasing other animals. But again - whether this is suitable is something that should be prescribed by a professional with the knowledge sufficient to be able to make that decision and also to be able to show you how it is done if it is. I agree that K9 Force would be the person to consult in this.

This is what I did for my boy when he was too little to safely leave in the (what seemed like then) BIG back yard. I made it so that the pen was attached to his crate and I secured it against some existing railing to ensure it could not topple over. I also had the crate section well sheltered and added a cover on top of that to keep out drafts.

Ok. Sorry if I had the OP panicking. I know that if horses bleed through both nostrils it is to be taken very seriously. Figured similarly. It would concern me even more, though, if the bleeding was continuing over a period of 7 hours. Keep a check on your dog's gums. If they are too pale I'd be back at the Vet's pronto, if not before.

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BOTH nostrils bleeding? And for most of the day? I'd have her at a Vet NOW. In fact, earlier than now. ETA: I see further in your post you've been to the Vet? I don't know about others, but if the Vet thinks this is ok for a few days, I'd be going somewhere else. I'm not a Vet, and maybe I'm panicking/over-reacting. But I don't think so. Happy to stand for correction though.

Hey! I think you do very well to be able to converse in more than just your native tongue. I can't. Unless it is pig-latin LOL.

Mandela had his second acupunture treatment yesterday afternoon, with Dr. Carl. What a lovely person he is, too - and good with dogs (and people). Anyway, he was aware of the records from Mandela's first treatment with Dr. Bruce and Dr. Genevieve and made the remark that the first treatment has obviously helped because Mandela was not all that sore on his back as he was before the first treatment. Mandela wasn't sedated for this lot and whilst the needles went in ok, Mandela is not the sort of dog to just hang loose mother goose by relaxing, so Dr. Carl injected a few of the acupuncture points with Vitamin B12. Apparently the effect of that is similar if not same to acupuncture stimulation. Mandela was absolutely zonked last night from the treatment and I notice that he is a bit uncomfortable for 24 hours following. This is apparently normal due to the body "adjusting". Mandela is on Chinese Herbal Medicine as well, now (since last Friday night) and one of the things that's been startling obvious is that the colour of his poop is improved dramatically. Spoke with Dr. Gen today and conversed about the changes and she's very happy that he seems to be responding well to the treatments. She mentioned that the Chinese Herbal Medicines she's given us to add to his food won't really properly kick in and shows signs of much improvement for a couple of weeks. Some signs of change are really hard to tell if it is in direct correlation to the treatments, as his symptoms habitually come and go and these changes can occur within 24 hours. Especially his skin issues - one moment I'm and then no sooner done, then things turn down again and I'm . So until more time goes by I really don't know if his skin looking good is due to treatments or whether it is going through its normal cycle. But I am really pleased with how his coat looks and just how he looks, in general, at the moment. There is a single hive here and another there, but they are really tiny and there is only one or two - a VAST improvement on that when the hives first broke out. Skin on the inside of his back legs is improving as well (he has bouts of red rash - pustulous (sp?) pimples). Whether these improvements will continue along that vein or not is what I don't yet know without more time. In a couple of weeks (giving the Chinese herbal treatment time to do their job) I'll be contacting Dr Bruce to discuss what Mandela is like at that point and we'll determine from there as to whether another visit is warranted for further assessment. Dr. Gen (who will be by then OS for 6 months) said there are other things she wishes to treat to strengthen Mandela's system, but she doesn't like to bombard the system with more than about two different herbs at the same time (which is what he is on at the moment).

Aaaahh, I get you .... so they've been conducting the SFE at the same spot the COP is done at. Thanks for that TSD.

JulesP .... would you mind explaining what you mean by this? Where is it normally done?

The trick is to NOT ask her to do something when/if you don't expect her to be able or likely to do it. It's about consistency. If you do ask her to do something but don't expect her to do it (and she doesn't) then you're setting her up to learn that your commands are meaningless to her. When you do tell her to do something, be in a position to *show* her what to do and guide her to doing it. Then release her (I train with a release word) and let her be a puppy for a bit. I don't expect focus at that age, although I train for it - but I don't ask for it. Rather, I reinforce/reward when it is offered. That way, I'm *shaping* a behaviour without goofing up a command that I will bring in later. Check out "TOT" which is pinned at the top of this forum. Excellent exercise for building focus. THAT is something you can begin doing with your puppy.

I would have thought that disinfecting between use should be the proprietors' primary concern and job. I know if I owned a place such as that, it would be what I'd ensure.

I have helped many, Love-da. I'm in the South Eastern suburbs but I do travel to a good extent. There are numerous other trainer/behaviourists who would be able to assist also. Perhaps if you indicate your location we could refer some other names that are in your 'do-able' proximity.

Thanks RS.

When does dumb bell retrieve become mandatory (ie what level)?

What's the difference between a pressure dressing and a pressure bandage? I have my own ideas (eg. to me a pressure dressing would be one of those that I described - actually, Rappie described it better - being a Vet, she can - but I mean the type where the dressing/bandage is on both sides of the ear flap and the ear is sutured to resemble a quilt. Whereas a bandage to me is something that wraps around something) but I'm not sure that everyone reading would be on the same page, nor whether I am right.