Wundahoo

Agree..... could be lots of things probably not related to the sanke bite. Vet if concerned.

From what you say, the snake bite occurred about 4 months ago and so it's unlikely that the irritation is related to that. I would suggest that it's probably something completely different. If her puppies play with their mum then it's possible that they may have damaged her skin. My bitches put up with all sorts of stuff from their puppies and often carry some skin wounds inflicetd by needle-sharp puppy teeth used in over enthusiastic play. If she was immune compromised (and I think that this is unlikely) then you would probably be seeing other signs that would indicate a poorly functioning immune system. If it's persisting and not healing then its best to get it checked by your vet.

All baby mammals produce lactase, as Steve has said. It's the enzyme necessary to process the milk sugar (lactose). Many mammals, around weaning time, will stop producing lactase. This halt in production doesnt have anything to do with how long they go without milk, it's simply a genetic thing. Some mammals are genetically programmed to stop producing lactase after a certain age. In the wild situation it has no evolutionary benefit or detriment because most mammals dont have access to milk after they have been weaned and so the gene has persisted in the populations of most mammals, including humans. The human species is the only one that deliberately steals milk from another species to consume and to give to their companion animals eg dogs and cats. If those animals are among the population that has stopped producing lactase then they will not be able to process the sugars in milk and so the resultant problems will be seen, the most common of which are gastrointestinal, but there can be others such as skin problems and a susceptibility to yeast infections. If your dog is not one that has the gene which prevents the production of lactase then it will be fine to eat milk products.

It looks to be very demarcated. The area has very defined edges to it. It could possibly be a reaction to the adhesive drapes that are often used for this procedure. I would keep a close eye on it and if it doesnt improve within the next couple of days then it might be best that you get some attention for it. I doubt that it's serios, but it's ahrd to tell from the photo. The most important thing is that the incision site looks dry and clean, with no discolouration, swelling or discharge and that he is free of pain.

Yes !! I had 2 dogs on this as a feeding trial. The first bag was fine. seemed to really like the taste and both dogs wwere happy to eat the food when they first started on it then around about the time that the second bag was opened the pickiness began !! By the end of the second bag one dog would eat about half that was given at each meal but would leave the rest. The other dog flatly refused to eat any of it and even though no other food was offered as an alternative, she persisted in not eating a single bite of the food. No matter what, she ate nothing at all for quite a few days until I gave in and changed her food. She ate greedily when she was given something (anything) other than the fish and sweet potato. My dogs are cockers and generally will eat anything at all, and sometimes that includes things that are not considered edible !! For two dogs that were normally really good eaters to suddenly become fussy about a food made me concerned about the palatability of it, and why they both appeared to not like the tase around the same time. I dont know why this happened. I didnt keep the bags to check if they were different batches or the same batch but it almost seemed as though the taste HAD changed from one bag to the other. Perhaps the manufacturers needed to change the formulation or something. Of course the result is that I now dont use this food at all.

How embarrassment, as Effie would say !! And of course no disposable gloves to help... bare hands eeeeeuuww, or did you use a poo bag ???

You have certainly done all that you could to help your friend and her dog ! Well done. Assuming that it is MM, as long as the dog is on the correct dose and is continued for quite a few months it should recover.Of course that is providing this is its first bout and the treatment has been started early.

The best natural remedy that I have ever used for kennel cough is a tincture of time.

Masticatory myositis is not a rare or unusual problem so all that I can think is that the "vet" who initially saw this dog is a cattle vet, or very new graduate or has been living under a rock all his career. For the dog's sake, it needs to be seen by a vet who knows what he is doing, understands the treatment regime and is able to adequately monitor the dog's progress. The treatment isnt particularly expensive, just prolonged.

So sad to know that there are now so many issues with this company. Years ago their products were the benchmark for crates and trolleys. C-Crates were the gold standard. I need a new trolley and love the C-Crate trolley design but I'm really reluctant to take the chance of ordering one and getting this sort of thing happening. Does anyone know if thre is a similar design available in Australia from a reliable source ??

Hey Dr Wundahoo, you could be on to something there! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Masticatory_muscle_myositis I've seen it before....... it has a classic look ! Never to be forgotten. The swollen muscles eventually begin to atrophy and then get that dreadful sunken appearance to them. If the disease is diagnosed and treated early the dog wil usually be OK but the treatment is lengthy and cant be stopped otherwise the dog will relapse pretty quickly.

I wonder if this dog has been vaccinated recently ???? A lot of autoimmune conditions seem to be triggered by recent vaccination.

Just read your link Purdie !!

This is probably masticatory myositis. The dog will need to be diagnosed by a vet who has treated this before. The treatment is usually prednisolone.

The only way to beat a bad flea infestation is at ground level..... environmental comtrol is a must. Flea bombing is the most efficient way but before that there are a couple of other things that should be done to the house. Replace or wash and thoroughly air all the dog bedding. If you have matting or runners in the house these should be vacuumed thoroughly, and taken outside and aired and if possible spray with a flea spray. All "human" bedding should be washed and aired as well, because it's so easy for flea larvae and eggs to live in any type of material. Careful attention needs to be given to lounges and chairs etc when flea bombs are set off. Make sure that the cushions are lifted to ensure that the fog can penetrate well. Immediately prior to flea bombing, thoroughly vacuum the entire house paying particular attention to carpets. All dogs and cats in the household must be treated for fleas at the same time. Cats are often the stumbling block for good flea control because of their propensity for reinfestation with adult fleas. Any flea treatment given to the animals in the house should be continued for at least 2 months as the flea life cycle is about 6 weeks.

I dont see that this is the real issue. Of course most people will make up their own minds about dog ownership. I doubt that my opinion as to a person's suitability (or not) will change their attitude about their own ability to raise and train a dog. What IS a fact is that the breeder has the ultimate say regarding to whom they choose to sell their puppies. Where people choose to look for their puppies is their right ..... they just need to portray the right attitude to be convincing that they can offer all that is needed for a dog that they are interesting in obtaining..... whatever the source..... be it breeder, pet shop, trading post, roadside stall, car boot in a parking lot etc etc.

People really dont seem to understand that it isnt a supermarket..... they cant just walk in a pick a puppy off the shelf like a tin of peas !!! My advert clearly says that the puppies are available to "selected families", these homes must "meet our strict selection criteria" and that "expressions of interest are being accepted for assessment now". Here is a sample of emails that have been recieved today. Apart from their first name at the end of the emails, all quotes contain the FULL email content. "I am just emailing to see if you have any current litters available and for some information". "Could you tell me if any puppy's are still available". "is the pup still available and if so what value" "Could u please let me know if still have puppies and cost". One that bothered to phone wanted to get a puppy as a "friend" for their 15 year old dog !! I tried to explain that their old dog may not appreciate the attention of an active exuberant young puppy but I was told that she "mothered" their cat when he was a kitten and that she "loved" baby animals !!!! People just dont seem to think things through particularly well. This person didnt seem to understand that although she felt that her 15 year old dog was up to running around with a growing, outgoing puppy right now, it was unlikely to continue in the near future as 15 years will soon be 16 years and advancing age would soon catch up with their dog !! Of course I was told that I was wrong and that I didnt know their dog....... but I DO know what happens to dogs as they age and to inflict a rambunctious energetic adolescent pup on an elderly dog was NOT fair to either animal. No doubt she will toddle off to get her new puppy from a pet shop which is where their 15 year old came from originally ...... I suppose that I'm lucky in that I do have many enquiries that are thoughtful and intelligent and induce me to reply to them. This type of enquiry often is from people who are highly suited as owners. Unfortunately, enquiries like those that I have quoted rarely get a reply from me. Perhaps that is considered rude or judgemental by some, but I'm afraid that I just dont see why I should spend my valuable time sending a reply to a person who apparently doesnt believe that I deserve some consideration in their initial approach to me. They have been given a clear indication in my advert that I require information from them if they are serious about obtaining one of my puppies. If they are really keen they will try again or they will phone and I can engage them in conversation to learn a bit about their suitability. If cost is their primaty consideration then I am also concerned that they may not have the financial basis to adequately care for a puppy into adulthood.

Even with my medium sized breed I like to "grow them slow". My puppies are never chubby babies unless they are still in the nest and being fed by their mums.... intake at that stage is almost impossible to control as far as quantity and quality of food ! I assess each litter individually and tailor the feeding plan accordingly. Once they are a bit older and getting ready for independant living, ie away from their mum, I then assess each puppy individually and adjust their diet as needed. I dont like high protein rations and change them to a good quality adult dry food as soon as I feel it's appropriate. New owners are warned strongly about the chubby-bubby syndrome. It's cute but it sets a pattern for life, especially in my breed and over-nutrition is even more of a problem these days than under-nutrition. More damage is done to rapidly growing joints, ligaments and bones by too much protein coupled with too much exercise at the wrong time. I think that the best thing you can do is to take your pup to the breeder for an assessment and advice regarding feeding. Nekhbet, I agree with absolutely everything that you have said..... great post !

I'm sorry to hear about your dog. You certainly have a hard time ahead of you both. When you say he has a "broken leg" do you mean that his femur is fractured because of the tumour ? If so. this is termed a pathological fracture. It cannot be mended. It happens because the cancer has replaced the bone and other normal tissues. It is very painful. When osteosarcoma has reached this stage the cancer has usually metastasised to other places so amputation wont bring about a cure. It will, however, ease his pain once the surgery has healed. Amputation in these cases is usually a part of the palliative treatment and not done as an attempt to cure the patient but to help with maintaining a better quality of life with less pain for as long as possible. If you consider the amputation, your vet will probably also want to check his other hip to see if he has any signs of arthritis there as it will have to carry the full load and so it needs to be able to do that without causing him too much discomfort. If the surgery is done it will take about 4 weeks for him to recover from the procedure..... some dogs are really good within a week or so, others can take longer. Unless you have already done so, perhaps it would be a good idea to speak with a specialist as a second opinion to get an idea of how muh time and pain relief amputation can bring you both. Quality of life becomes the issue in these cases and palliative care is usually about decreasing pain and increasing mobility for as long as possible. Sometimes it can be difficult to differentiate between osteosarcoma of the femur and a serious form of infection (usually fungal) so a second opinion from a specialist might be a good idea, although most osteosarcs are easy to diagnose. If there is any doubt often a bone biopsy is suggested or if amputation is decided upon then the lesion is sent for testing. Either way it's still a serious condition and you will have a hard decion to make sooner or later. Hugs to you. It's never easy. Make a list of all the things that he likes to do and how his day generally went when he was well. Look at how he is behaving now and write down all the things that he is currently doing that are on the first list. Ask yourself when you think he was last at his happiest. Decide on a measure that gives you an indication of his pain levels and general comfort. Use a numerical scale if that makes it easy. Do this each day. Use these parameters daily to assess him. If you use a numbering system for each category then make a weekly graph if that helps too. I have always found this to be a good way to try to see how the situation is really, rather than how I might perceive, or WANT to perceive the situation. Our emotions almost always get in the way and so I think that to have a method of quantifying each day takes away the emotional fog that we can sometimes allow to cloud the reality. Hugs to you. It's never easy.

One of my girls has a litter at the moment and she was outside for a "pitstop". I was about to leave for work and was running late and didnt have much time at all to do the usual things (!!!) When I checked her she was scooting... scooting ... scooting, which is something that my dogs rarely do. I chastised her and told her that it was not a ladylike thing for her to do. I put her back in with her puppies and went to leave for work. Suddenly I realised that I had left something in the house and went back in to get it. When I was back inside my house I could smell POO !! This didnt make me happy at all and I went to let my girl out again and to check her pen to see what she had done...... nothing there !! As she turned around I could see "something" hanging from her backside ...... eeewww !! Wasnt too sure what it was, as it looked REALLY strange.... got some gloves and pulled and pulled and pulled, a bit like the scarves coming out of the magician's hat !!! There seemed to be such a lot of it. It was one of my knee high stockings !! She is a bit of a magpie and she had obviously found this treasure, swallowed it whole and here was the "end" result. It was coming out toe first and the foot bit was full of POO !!!!A POO sausage !!!!!! It was sooooo stretchy and seemed to have grown in length by many centimetres !! Poor thing, I felt a bit sorry for her as it must have been quite uncomfortable for her, hence the scooting. Lesson..... any scooting/bottom dragging should always be investigated. It's a clear sign of some sort of anal discomfort, particularly if it is not a "usual" habit for the dog.

It's possible but needs to be done by a repro specialist or at least by a very experienced general practice vet. Some years ago, one of my bitches suffered a septic abortion at about 6 1/2 weeks gestation. She had a uterus full of pus and all the puppies were dead. Of course it happened on a weekend when just about every vet in the state was at a weekend course on reproduction given by an internationally acknowledged repro expert !! Where were they all when I needed them ?????? ...... Sitting on their butts in a lecture theatre !!! Luckily I was able to contact the lecturer himself and he was very happy to have a readily available example of what can be achieved. My girl was treated free of charge over the next couple of weeks, under his guidance and instructions. While she was not particularly well, she did OK and after a few weeks was back to her normal self. I was told to mate her at her very next oestrus, which we did. The litter was lovely and I kept a male who was quite successful in the show ring but best of all, he went on to become an important stud. He and his son still feature heavily in my pedigrees today. If it was not for that particular vet being in town at that particular weekend, my bitch would proably have been sterilised and my wonderful stud dog would never have existed, nor his children, grand and great grandchildren.

I would say that this is related to injection sites. I dont vaccinate and microchip at the same time. Vaccinations are done first and then 10 days later microchips are inserted. I always try to get the vaccinations slightly to one side so that if there ever is a reaction ït's less likely to be close to the microchip site. By the size of the swelling I would suspect that this is not related to vaccination but is more like a foreign body reaction ie microchip ! Because it's in multiple animals there is possibley a problem with the batch that was used. It would be interesting to see if the vet has had any other similar cases. Edit for spelling

Unless you can reach an agreement between you and the cat's owner, I think that if it went to court you would be found to be fully responsible for any accounts in relation to the attack by your dog. Depending on the state where you live you may also find yourself with an issue regarding your dogs escaping and attacking another animal. It's a sticky situation and probably a good one to consider getting a legal opinion.

My heart just breaks for those dogs which have found themselves in a situation where home-alone has not worked for them. This is the true and real tragedy. As a breeder, how am I meant to distinguish between a full-time working family that will be able to manage a young puppy to the point where it is happy, well trained and accepted as an integral part of the family, or one where the time and effort will not be made (in spite of all the promises) and the dog finishes untrained, unsocialised and needs to be found a new home ???? Believe me, in my breed the latter is far more frequent an occurrence than the former. I dont have a crystal ball nor a clairevoyant to whom I can refer. I know from experience that in my breed, full-time working families have a high rate of failure for successful ownership and so it would be irresponsible for me to sell a puppy to such a home. It could also be perceived as a breach of the Code of Practice for my State Controlling Body. "A member shall ensure that persons acquiring dogs from that member understand the requirements for the care, welfare and responsible ownership of the dog, and that they have the time and facilities to fulfil their responsibilities." For the sake of the dog I would rather err on the side of caution and be carefully selective about where my puppies go.

Happy New Year everyone !! I am going to start 2014 off by putting myself in the firing line.... up front, facing the firing squad !! Firstly, before people get really cranky about what I will say, I am not referring to each and every home-alone dog or full-time working owners. I know that there are many whose situation does work for them and their dogs but there are just as many situations where it just doest work out and the results can be tragic. I am Secretary of the Breed Club in my state and I also run our breed rescue and placement service. I can say that most requests to put a dog on rescue or placement come from people who are full time workers. They usually tell me that they love their dog but they just cant live with it and so it needs to be found a new home. Classically, these dogs have been sold at 8 weeks of age to families where there is no one at home for long periods each day, 5 days a week. The house is usually empty of people from around 7.30am to about 5.00pm. Before people leave the house they are often busy getting the day off to a start and when they arrive home, they are often busy with household things such as preparing meals, doing chores or in the case of the kids, doing homework. There is usually very little time each day that can be devoted to giving the puppy the sort of interaction and training that it needs. This doesnt just mean a cuddle or a game or a walk. My breed needs close supervision while growing up. They need guidance as to the acceptability (or otherwise) of the activities that they choose during the day. They need reinforcement of positive behaviours and distraction away from those that are unwanted. They also have a high psychological need to be close to people and this, at times, can become overwhelming so that when a person does finally appear at the end of the day the puppy/dog is so overcome with excitement and joy to see another living creature that all possibility of quality learning flies out the window. Instead, the dog's hyper reaction to seeing someone becomes the reinforced pattern of behaviour and this can be set for life. It might be cute when a little puppy turns itself inside out with joy at the arrival of its person each afternoon but it is very wearing when the dog is a lot bigger and there is more force behind the jumping, leaping, twirling and barking !! My breed learns fast and also learns by perceived reward. This means that a lonely pup which finds something to do that relieves the hours of boredom or that runs off some of the pent up energy or simply offers some tactile stimulation, will return again and again to that activity. If no one is there to direct the pup and tell it that the behaviour is not really acceptable, that behaviour quickly becomes reinforced and very hard to change. Because the puppy is often obtained at an age and stage of development where toiletting and house training habits are at a crucial point and where patterns can be set for life (eg surface preference) home-alone puppies of this breed can be difficult to house train. For this reason they often find themselves excluded from the house which in turn leads to separation issues when the family is at home and inside..... where the dog also believes it should be !!. By the time these home-alone dogs reach 6-9 months of age the owners are often not feeling the love when they get home from work. Their yard may be looking the worse for wear, holes dug, retic chewed, plants pruned and often neighbours not pleased about the barking and door banging. This scenario is NOT a rare one for my breed. I have never had a request for a dog to go onto rescue or placement where there is a member of the family at home for 4 or 5 out of 7 days except where the owners have become ill or are moving. As a breeder I WILL NOT sell my puppies to a home-alone situation because I know that it has a very high chance of not working. I dont say that it wont work, but I know my breed and its requirements and therefore I know that the odds are against the puppy growing to be a well-trained and well behaved adult if placed in a home-alone situation while at critical stages of development. I choose homes where there is at least one part-time worker or a family member who is home for a reasonable part of the week. Any more than 2 consecutive days alone and the prospective buyer is politely told that one of my puppies will not be available to them. This is MY choice and MY right. Needless to say I get people who are cranky that I wont sell them a puppy because they work full-time. I have been abused and called names ...... can see that about to happen here too !!! I have had people tell me that they will "make it work"...... when I ask how they plan to do that, they tell me that they will find a way !! To me this seems like a huge gamble because IF it doesnt work out and the dog needs to be rehomed it's the dog that suffers. I have a very strict criteria for selecting the homes for my puppies and I have very little trouble in finding the type of home that I want for them. I may pass up some truly wonderful homes because the puppy will be in a home-alone situation, but that is my choice. I'm sure that there will another breeder somewhere in Australia or a pet shop that will happily sell them a puppy.