RIP HERO Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 (edited) Im recommending it because like i said IMO it is what works and what I USE. At work we dont have Droncit and no one using this formula has overdosed. But like i said before to each their own, your right to have your opinion and im right to have mine as i have used it, so have my customers and fellow dog owners i work with and no one has overdosed on it....Its up to the OP at the end of the day it was my advice and i stick by it. You dont have to accept or understand it...stick to your preferred method Btw just for reference how many does have you seen overdosed on advocate and drontal? It has nothing to do with overdosing RH and I never said that it didn't work, what I'm concerned about is administering unnecessary chemicals to the dog. Advocate covers all intestinal worms excluding tapeworm and Drontal covers all intestinal worms including tapeworm so you are actually doubling up on the treatment for round, hook and whip. If you want to use Advocate give Droncit a couple of times a year, if your dog is flea free it is highly unlikely that the dog will have tape anyway. It is also much cheaper to do it this way. If you don't have Droncit at work, order some. You are recommending that people give their dogs extra chemicals that are not only unnecessary, but also expensive and I make no apology in pointing out that there is a better and cheaper way. I don't care what you give your dog, that's entirely up to you, but coming onto a public forum and advising novice owners to do the same is another thing altogether. Ofcoursei care about what i give my dog, and ofcourse i care about everyones dog. And if i find that there is a problem i would reconsider. All im asking you miranda is that discuss your point with me and ill discuss my point with you. I am in no position to order products to my work and i have to rely on giving what is available to my customer. I DONT own petbarn and must find the best combination for my customers and thats what i have been taught to use by people that have worked there for 7+ years. I am a second year vet science student and am learning everything and that is why i do the work i do so discuss and teach not provoke. Maybe people will listen to your point of view and opinion like that? i know i will, knowing the vet science field is very important between doctor and humans as well as the furry patients... PS: Miranda btw i have been reading alot and thinking and restudying my notes...and thinking and i agree with you totally. Im going to Advocate only...you totally made me realise something should be changed after more research..thank you Edited January 18, 2011 by RIP HERO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dore Posted January 18, 2011 Author Share Posted January 18, 2011 Thanks for all your replies and concern. I am glad that ear mites are not a big issue. I will monitor her closely. I do not want to use too much chemical on her since I have no idea what exactly is the cause of her itchiness. I hope it is not environmental as we have fallen for her. She is so adorable and lovable. Thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WreckitWhippet Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 Hi Dore As others have kindly pointed out, the least amount of chemicals you can put on and into your puppy the better off it's going to be in the long run. If you are concerned about fleas and think that they may be in your home and yard, then you also need to treat the environment. I'm another who is reluctant to overload any dog or puppy with chemicals but if you do discover fleas ( it appears to be the year for infestations, where owners have previously had none ), you can treat the dog with Frontline and a basic all wormer tablet. Flea bomb the house and wash all bedding. Use lime on the gardens and lawns and water it in. A happy healthy puppy should not be itchy. Once you have ruled out fleas, I'd be looking very carefully into your pups diet, any chemcials you consider using in the future and which vaccination protocol you follow. There is a lot of information regarding raw feeding, choosing grain free diets, vaccination, avoiding the yearly heartworm injection on DOL and plenty of very experienced breeders and owners who can help you out. Speak to your breeder, they should also be able to help you out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmandaJ Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 I agree with the others. Giving chemical treatments for conditions the dog does not have is detrimental to the immune system and can work against you in the long run. Diatomaceous earth (food grade), fresh pineapple, grated carrot are all good for treating for worms. I control and treat the environment before I treat the dogs for fleas - and one of mine has a chronic allergy to flea bite. It is not unheard of for a high protein puppy food to increase the body temperature of the dog and inadvertantly cause itching. It is recommended that some breeds even have low protein diets to counter the body temp/ itching problem (PON's are one). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nekhbet Posted January 22, 2011 Share Posted January 22, 2011 and thats what i have been taught to use by people that have worked there for 7+ years. You need to start learning and questioning for yourself NOT just listening to what other people say. Some people have been rabbiting on for over 30 years ... and are still wrong. Read up and make educated decisions not just because someone else told you thats the way it is. Otherwise you'll just be another one of those vets that just regurgitates the text book at clients, and those vets I never go back to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mystiqview Posted January 22, 2011 Share Posted January 22, 2011 I use Sentinel Interceptor. It does Heart worm and all intestinal worms (including tapeworm). I use Comfortis (Not suitable for pups under 14 weeks or pregnant/lactating bitches) for fleas. Found the Comfortis works well for fleas. It is a chew tablet given once a month, sometimes lasting up to 6 weeks. It also helps prevent flea dermatitis and controls fleas in the environment. Personally - I do not like top spots for worming. I prefer something given internally. Top spots in my opinion only have the chance of not administrating the full dose, either through error in application, or by other means. Flea top spots I can handle only because you can SEE much more easily if they are working or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
murve Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 Hi Dora try Apple Cider Vinager eitther sprinkled on or added to drinking water is great for the tear staining around the face & Fleas, the 2 added webs I've put here are thanks to Bully in the subject of "How To Remove Staining On White Dogs" I have started to use ACV in the bucket of water for my 6 dogs & found a great difference in one of my 4 month old Pappy pups http://phdproducts.com/main/phdpage.asp?page=134 http://www.earthclinic.com/Pets/acvfordogs.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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