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Guest afton

Zapping dogs into submission.

The invisible fence (electrc collars) zap the dog to prevent it going past the point imo the dog learns to stay inside by being afraid of being zapped (hence my comment zapped into submission) and what he has learnt is to be afraid of being zapped.

Afton

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Zapping dogs into submission.

The invisible fence (electrc collars) zap the dog to prevent it going past the point imo the dog learns to stay inside by being afraid of being zapped (hence my comment zapped into submission) and what he has learnt is to be afraid of being zapped.

Afton

Did you even read the training schedule?

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Afton...just in case you didn't read it...here it is...

In-ground Pet Fencing

    Before you start the training process you will need a training collar. You can choose either a flat or slip collar. As a general rule, use a flat collar on a mild mannered dog and a slip collar for dogs that might be a little harder to handle. You will also need a 6 foot lead or a 15 foot retractable lead works well too.

Ok, so let’s get started.

First, let’s talk about the training schedule:

    Completely trusting your dog with the boundaries will take place over the course of about 4 weeks. Don’t worry, the actual training is a small part of this time the rest is spent closely monitoring your dog.

    You will want to set time aside for two practice sessions per day that are 10-15 minutes each, because both you and your dog will appreciate short, fun lessons that makes the training more effective. Use a calendar such so you can keep track of the training process. Your dog’s behavior will tell you when it is time to proceed to the next level. Dog’s learn at different rates, so don’t be surprised if your dog catches on faster or takes a little longer.

*  In lesson one, there are six sessions to teach the retreat pattern.

*  In lesson two, there is one session about correction and lesson number three is how to deal with distractions.

*  In lesson four your dog is ready to take off the lead with some supervision and in

*  lesson five will move on to being off lead unsupervised.

And then wrapping up the training you will remove the flags gradually until they are gone.

    That’s the schedule and most importantly, everyday, review the previous day’s activities to see if your dog is learning on schedule. Boundary work should take place only in your yard. Take your dog around to the boundaries of your entire yard talking and pointing out the area you want to be observed. Do not let your dog go beyond the boundary.

   

      When you have completed a session, always end it on a high note with more play and praise . When a session is complete bring your dog indoors to remove the electronic collar.

    If you are training more than one dog, train each dog in separate training sessions.

LESSON 1

   

    The first lesson is to introduce your dog to the boundary and to help your dog upon hearing the tone to understand to retreat to the safe part of the yard when the warning tone is heard. Your system came packaged with Innotek plastic training contacts. Please install these training contacts before beginning your training session.

    With your dog on a lead, casually walk to the boundary. When the dog reaches the signal field, immediately spin around and briskly jog back into the yard. The dog will feel the tug and run after you. Praise enthusiastically. If your dog does not indicate hearing the tone walk your dog to the boundary and follow the same procedure.

    On days two and three repeat the same lesson. As the training sessions of the next three days progress, you’ll see that your dog will start to anticipate the signal and retreat without your prompting as shown here.

    Now it’s time for the real test. Day three is successful only if your dog retreats without your prompting and refuses to approach the boundary as you approach. For each successful attempt be sure to praise, praise and praise again. If you are not successful keep the training going as you have been the past two days until your dog retreats without prompting.

It’s time for your dog to move to the next phase.

LESSON 2

   

    For this lesson, you will need to replace the Innotek plastic training contacts with the Innotek supplied metal correction contacts. You will also need a helper for this phase of the training with your dog still on a lead, causally walk to the boundary with your dog and helper. The helper should continue to walk through the boundary, should the dog try to follow he will receive a correction from the collar. Immediately retreat to the safe part of the yard and lavish your dog with praise. Please note, it is very important that your helper not stop, look back or acknowledge the dog in any way. Continue this lesson at a number of different areas around the boundary.

LESSON 3

    We are now ready to start with Lesson number three that we call Distractions.

If your dog is avoiding the boundary, with the helper moving freely in and out of the area, you are ready to add more tempting distractions. Remember, never pull or coax your dog into the boundary area. This lesson teaches that your dog must resist all temptations to leave the yard. Dogs have trouble connecting the lessons learned with one distraction to another. So, you can’t assume that if your dog won’t chase a ball out of the yard,

Your dog won’t chase a bicycle… Or favorite neighbor.

You have to go through a list of distractions that will tempt your dog and prove each one before proceeding to the next. Before long your dog will connect the dots.

Don’t leave the yard for bikes, neighbors, bouncing balls, moving cars means, don’t leave the yard for any reason.

           

LESSON 4                                     

   

    Off lead supervised. A very important next step for your dog.

This is the first time during your training sessions that your dog will be off lead and you must make certain that you and your dog stay in the yard at all times during this training.

Make sure the Innotek device is correctly placed on the collar and on your dogs neck and the electronic collar is turned on.

    It’s wise to spend a lot of quality time in the yard with your dog. The more your dog stays on the property for the first month, the less chance of your dog attempting to leave the area. Continue to supervise and play with your dog outside for a period of one week.

LESSON 5   

    Ok, we’re ready for lesson five, “off lead unsupervised”.

You will know when your dog is ready to be unsupervised because your dog will resist all manner of distractions, both on and off the lead.

It’s a big step when your dog can be left unattended in the yard.

Keep a close eye on your dog for two weeks from inside the house. This freedom should be brief at first and the amount of time increased gradually.

    Before and after each unsupervised session, you must continue to the play and praise routine to continue to reinforce that the yard is a happy, fun and safe place to be.

After two weeks of successful containment, you can begin removing the flags. Start by removing every other flag, every other day until all of the flags are gone.

The leads, trainers, flags and the electronic training collar are all clues for your dog to learn the boundaries. They are all removed gradually except the electronic training collar.

It’s essential that you observe whether you’re off lead, unsupervised dog still avoids and retreats from the unmarked boundary. If your dog’s response is anything but immediate retrace your steps through the training process.

    Thanks to you, with help from your new Innotek In-ground Pet Fencing system, your dog now will have the freedom to run without the worry of running away.

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And from the other site...

Professional Training

The combination between electronic pet containment systems and behavioral training is a powerful tool to keep your pet home. We use our exclusive Hidden Fence Company training protocol to keep your pet safely contained. Our training uses play, praise and practice to help your pet learn his new boundaries. We offer only personalised pet training to guarantee positive results.

The cornerstone of effectively changing or improving any behavioral pattern is - consistent training.

Every dog is different. Some dogs may be more energetic and/or unfocused, while others may have a softer disposition and may need more care with training and understanding. We customise our training to your dogs needs.

Each session is specifically designed to meet certain objective that will ultimately allow your pet to play freely and safely in your yard without escaping...GUARANTEED!!

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Then that's fine for you but you shouldn't be trying to push that opinoin on others...or having a go at others for having said system.

Also...i'm not going by what the seller 'told' me, i'm going by experiance!

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My bf parents had a zap collar when there dog barked. I put it around my neck and tried to bark. It got me and boy did it hurt. I would not use it on a dog. There are other ways to combat problems like this. It didn't even stop him barking. (I know this is a fence collar but it is the same method of "training" and it crap.)

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I don't like them. never will regardless of what the seller tells you and that is my stance.

Afton

Then why pose the qustion in the first place?

Couldn't get anyone to agree with you on the other forum and thought you'd have better luck here?

You have yet to offer any evidence as to why they shouldn't be used other than

"I don't like them"

Take heart though Em & Taco have come to the rescue with

I know this is a fence collar but it is the same method of "training" and it crap.

Good to see some more considered and scientific opinions gaining a voice, good on you Em :rolleyes: :confused:

OK if you offer up some form of legitimate argument I'll stop poking fun, honest. :confused:

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Urban - :rolleyes:

My bf parents had a zap collar when there dog barked. I put it around my neck and tried to bark. It got me and boy did it hurt. I would not use it on a dog. There are other ways to combat problems like this. It didn't even stop him barking. (I know this is a fence collar but it is the same method of "training" and it crap.)

Em & Taco - it would be worth checking the brand and age of that collar. The collars now have a variety of strength settings from very very light to that of about a static zap from scuffling across carpet and touching someone. The zap that comes from the collar i use on my dog is less that that given out by those static tenze (sp?) machines...the ones that they use for muscle healing? etc

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G'day, Eddy here.

Maybe Innotec could consider an alternative instead of the collar delivering a "static tingle", maybe a loud speaker inside the home that mentions something like "I'm a pack animal and need some company can you come out and join me or can I come inside with you", or maybe a treat dispenser near the back door that drops a treat or maybe a ball throwing mechanism that throws a ball. The instruction manual could contain the training required for these so that your doggie knows what to do when it hears the noise on their collar. I feel some others might have some ideas.

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People don't usually believe it until they see it...he can get out from very very small gaps.

:rolleyes: Oh I believe you, I had a Karabash (and she was a big Karabash) that got out of a hole about 10"x10" To look at the hole you would have thought no way, if I hadn't seen it for myself Iwould never have believed it.

My dobexshep managed to dig it up, I made the pegs bigger and i crossed them over each other so they were going into the ground in different angles if that makes sense, that fixed him :confused: not saying it would have helped yours.

cheers

M-J

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Guest afton

Urban,

I didn't raise the issue here for your or others support and I am certain there are others that agree with me but haven't said anything. I also know the RSPCA also has strong views on it so I'm definately not alone.

I raised the issue here as it's a dog forum and wasn't going to attack the other peron on the other forum for their opinion. Initially I was interested in what others thought but as I thought more about it my opinion became much stronger and as I have trained dogs in the past, I now have strong feelings on this issue as people who use them will have theirs. You can't tell me that a dog when it get zapped by one it doesn't hurt them. On the other forum it is mention that when the dog gets zapped it yelps.

Afton

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The instruction manual could contain the training required for these so that your doggie knows what to do when it hears the noise on their collar. I feel some others might have some ideas.

G'day Eddy

That's exactly how the sheepdogs I mentioned earlier worked with the collars. They had been taught the difference between the varied types of shock and knew the desired action, all this was with very low level shocks and I can assure you the dogs in no way considered it a correction.

I thought it was an excellent way of working a dog at distances that make whistles and hand signals ineffective.

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I would just like to add:

When people purchase innotek collars and fences, after the dog gets a couple of zaps and knows its boundaries do u then take it away??

I wouldnt leave it on the dog for its whole life time i think that would be a tad harsh,

i think there are other ways around dogs getting out, iv had a boxer get out from when she was 18 months, she is now 9 years old and will still do it, wait for 5 minutes boom shes gone. So i do know the annoyance.

BUT - even knowing that i bring my boxer inside now as its the only way i can watch her and keep her safe, i know i said i would use these as a last resort and i would but i still dont agree with them. I hope i made just a bit of sense there lol.

So kitkat- i am on your level :rolleyes: she has rounded up sheep, cattle, bit cattles tails off, just a huge ball of fun! not for me though!!

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The reason the dog yelps is because the 'zap' is a surprise...i yelp as well when i'm playing with it...the dog has learnt the boundry...i haven't :rolleyes: My boy is also a sook when it comes to that, with the whole...'if i sook mum will come and smooch me and i'll get out of trouble'

The dog is trained to avoid the fence line, if the dog goes too close a warning beep is emited, the dog is also trained to understand what that means, the dog only gets zapped if it pushes past that then backs away, the dog will learn very quickly that to push that fence line is to be reprimanded so the dog stops doing it. But they still have the freedom of a full yard instead of being chained or tied to a running-line.

But it's because of surprise...it's a surprise reprimand, they know it's gonna come if they push it but it's still a surprise....it's a bit like the fence bites really.

Also when you get a static zap in the office or getting into your car...do you let out a little yip of surprise? I know i do.

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I generally leave the collar on my boy (he doesn't push the fences any more, nor has he for the last few months) but as often a not i take it off at nights...he knows the boundries and i could probably turn the system off...but i'd rather be able to test him on that before doing so...as in a long weekend at home the entire time for a change....which would be nice...

Abzndbonnie - yeah...the dog has a great time and they just don't understand why we get so upset and fustrated...lol

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You can't tell me that a dog when it get zapped by one it doesn't hurt them. On the other forum it is mention that when the dog gets zapped it yelps.

Yep agree wholeheartedly, if you turn up the juice enough you'll get a yelp no doubt. Modern collars generally have a choice as to how big the Zap your dog gets is, from less than a static shock off carpet (you could comfortably hold onto this level for as long as you cared) to a decent zap that would leave you shaking the tingles out of your hand or stop a stock-killing dog mid chase. Ever accidentally leant against an electric fence? It scares the bejeezus out of you but physically you've forgotten it after a few seconds, mentally it tends to last a bit longer though.

But what we're now talking about (and probably have been all along) is correct application of the tool not whether it's a valid tool in the first place.

What would you do in the situation of abzndbonnie & kitkat?

So kitkat- i am on your level  she has rounded up sheep, cattle, bit cattles tails off, just a huge ball of fun! not for me though

We're I come from that dog would be shot on site, (no questions asked) So abznbonnie is faced with a choice of consigning the dog to a chain for the rest of it's life or taking steps to confine the dog to it's yard before it gets shot. Would you prefer a dead dog, a dog living it's life on a chain, a dog in a yard it wants to escape but can't, or a dog that has earnt the run of the yard via lots of praise and affection and an understanding that there are consequences to breaking the rules?

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Yes Urban she has nearlly been put down, but thats another story and that is why enough was enough, she needed to be safe, so inside she came,

the cattle she chewed tails off were my uncles so he just had a laugh about it and tells all his farmer friends! she also had a nice run around his farm and his neighbours farm, so understandably he hasnt offered to look after her again :rolleyes:

When we are at work/school she is on a chain, a very long one that she can reach the whole yard with, but i hate it, but that's what u gota do, i am not risking her life again!

And i dont think i want an invisible fence, but anyone that has it and it works for them so be it, good on em for not risking their dogs life either!

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