Puppoochi
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Posts posted by Puppoochi
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Zephyr spent today at the pet expo exchanging lollies from Tank's backpack for pats, leaning on people to keep them patting and scratching him, and tarting up to several girls of different breeds
He had an absolutely fantastic time and loved all the attention. It was a very long day but well worth the effort for the positive PR.
Great photos
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I was there today and loved it. The breed next on my list is the Newfoundland, so thats where I was for a while, chatting to a breeder, she was so helpful and willing to answer all my questions.
Me with the Newfie:
So many beautiful dogs, Poodiful, I saw the toy poodles and spoke to someone that was holding the standard poodles. I said to her how good it is to see beautiful pure poodles instead of crosses and she said a lady had just asked her why a Maltese x poodle is not a recognised breed because she has one and they are terrific. LOL The toys are just sooo gorgeous!
Bought some showbags, a Natural spray for itchy skin, Oscars Law car sign and Save the Bears tea towel.
I was also looking forward to seeing Sphinx cats, but there was only one, curled up asleep in its crate and it was roped off so that you could hardly see it. I was disappointed about that.
My bubs, and the very handsom Dr Chris Brown, I didn't want to be in the pic and ruin it.
I had a guy come up to me said he had a maltese that he wanted to put to a Toy Poo, I said "good luck"
Debra Tranter with twotty
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We went yest, and enjoyed meeting the dogs. One of my favs was the dandie dinmont terrier, and the breeder was lovely.
I enjoyed talking to the Am Staff people, the lowchen, cairn terrier and I was impressed with the soft coated wheaten terrier.
Everyone was approachable and loved showing off their breeds. I honestly think there should be more promotions of purebreeds.
Glad you liked our dogs
My 4 (bunny rabbit included) had an absolute ball! They are totally exhausted now though.Was great chatting to the lowchen people too!
It was good to see your gorgeous fluffs again ;) You are a fixture at each one of these expos... I still remember seeing you up on stage at the first one I went to a couple of years ago You hung out with the Lowchens, you would have seen me across the way with my two toy poos.
I also ended up showing someone elses toy poo baby that I'd never met and had never been on a lead, it was shit scared and I wasn't prepared had my number in my cleavage, but it was all a bit of fun even though a bit embarrassing trying to make this baby come for me.
Also with all the showbags I bought home the dogs thought it was xmas
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I walk my 5 Toy Poos al at once. It was difficult at first, and I would constanly have to stop to untangle the leads. But they have worked it out and it's not a problem now. I feel guilty leaving some behind.
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I have 5 Toy Poos, am renting but they think I only have 1 dog. I live in St Kilda and only have a small courtyard, it's basically a toilet for the dogs. The living room looks like a bit of a kennel as I have 2 PP40s, a show trolley and a large Crate on top of the trolley. The show trolley door is always open as they like to lie on the plush faux fur matt that's inside the trolley.I have all that set up for their dinner time, as my show girl Twotty, eats too much & I have to watch her figure. Most of the time they're sitting on the sofa with me and at times I tell them to all get off as I need my personal space.
I don't walk them every day but when I do, I cause a bit of a sensation. You just don't see people walking 5 at a time, (except dog walkers) especially Toy Poos, 2 in show coat. I get so many smiles & lovely comments about them,I love the positive energy I receive, but I'm sure people think I'm the crazy poodle lady.
I want more but where I am, 5 is definitely my limit. They all follow me to bed and find their positions.
I hope to move further north sometime in the future, with a yard with cooch grass and bangalow palms and have imagined myself with 10 or 12, but I sure won't be walking them all at the same time.
I have thought long and hard about this. Set up properly, I think I could manage. I've even thought about how I could cuddle them all at once. I'd have to lie on the ground and they would all rape hug me. I want more dogs, I just don't have the space atm.
People can have a dozen kids, why can't I have a dozen fur kids, they're way less maintenance, even though I have a high maintenance breed, I know I could manage in the right space.
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http://www.k9kutz.com.au/5-star-accommodation
they're in Rosebury, the owner actually lives in Castle Hill, you may see him walking his Afghan in the evenings. He's a clean freak and you'll be able to check out the accommodation during business hours. They're not officially open on a Sunday, but there are staff there.
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the world is full of psychopaths, ying and yang, for every good person, there's a rotten one, for every exceptionally good person, there's an exceptionally bad person out there. It's the way of the world, for there to be good, there has to be evil..
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I live in St Kilda, during Grand Prix, the jets fly over the house really low which makes a hell of a lot more noise than any thunderstorm I've heard. I run out the back all excited and all mine except one picks up on my excitement, Same with really loud thunderstorms, I love them. But Barbarella is really clingy and shakes, she thinks the sky is falling
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Elvis gets duffus and I sing "folks are dumb where I come from, I come from Woollongong"
Barbarella gets Mrs Barbarella or my pretty pretty
Gracie gets Missy Gracie
Twot gets Twotty, or Lady twot Twot. She has an internet name which is Maddie, for people that can't bring themselves to calling her twot. BTW she was sexed as a boy when she was born
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I know this is a thread about breeders and puppy buyer experiences....but from a breeder point of view I think it is important that word gets around via word of mouth if the experience by all is a good one. For example I recently rehomed a male fawn pug to an already pugged mature couple because they came highly reccommended by the breeder of their first Pug. I hadnt thought of rehoming this dog, but it was a home no sane Pug would refuse. He has been there for just over a month now and had his first Brighton beach experience....he met a nearly 4 yr old Black pug, started playing....the slaves got talking and the Black pug was from my 2nd Black litter and I remember the lovely dads as soon as she said his pet name. So my point is go where the breed hangs out that you want and talk to the people and find out where they got their dogs from. Eg. If you want a pug go down to Elstenwick Park on a sunday morning and watch all the pugs running off leash and talk to all the crazy Pug slaves. I think we rely on the internet too much. :D
Elsternwick Park, poodle day is Saturday after 12pm
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Definitely not a business here. My website is to showcase my dogs and educate on the breed.
In relation to profit though, where exactly does it say a breeder can't make one?
I would suggest that in recent years it has been the 'mornal line' that breeders can't/shouldnt make a profit/shouldnt breed to often etc etc. If a good breeder can breed good dogs and place them in good homes and make a profit doing it I would suggest that there is nothing anywhere that says they can't. Just because it doesnt happen often doesnt mean it is not allowed.
Quite the contrary.
If you applied for a prefix then it would be 'nigh impossible for you to have missed that section in the Code of Ethics.
I defy anybody to post a financial plan showing how it is possible to turn a profit without imposing a detriment on the dogs, breeders, regulatory councils or clients.
Of course, it is more than practicable to lower your costs and approach a brake even point, if you are economical and astute, but most breeders spoil their dogs and well there goes any hope of financial recovery.
If I didn't feed my dogs with quality feed and never went near a Vet and had a dozen bitches and an endless list of homes, and I didn't go overseas to source bloodlines and never went near a show ring and ... and ... Wait a minute! wouldn't that be puppy farming?
Ummm, not in the eyes of the CCs, so long as you register every dog, it's more $$$ for them. There was a recent breeder that had been suspended that registers more Toy Poos in Vic that was suspended for 2 counts of having whelped bitches more than twice in 18 months and what did he get, a $250 fine & 6 months suspension per count. A mere slap on the wrist if you ask me. The fines in total isn't even worth half a puppy. Why be so lenient on someone of his ilk unless of course CCs are cashing in on all his registrations. BTW this breeder doesn't participate in any activities with their dogs, he's too busy with puppies all the time.
Personally, I think there should be a limit as to how many dogs we should have. It would be pertaining to space and how many dogs one person can care for adequately.
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It is simply not permitted.
what's not permitted?
I know several people who are a registered business for tax purposes.
My thoughts are that pewithers is meaning that it is against the code to breed for profit????
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I don't have litters often - 2 in the last 4 1/2 years - and I don't show. I certainly don't run a business and, when I do have a litter, I breed using advice from one who is much more experienced that I can ever hope to be.
I have standard poodles but I am not a groomer, which is really why I don't show - also I'm not a spring chicken anymore for running around a ring.
I do answer most emails and go to a lot of trouble to help friends place pups in good homes. I don't answer emails that are obviously from agents or 'big buyers'. I have had someone wait a year for one of my pups, but that was their choice and I had offered to help them get another pup from another breeder. I am so scared of being responsible for a pup ending up mistreated, in a puppy farm or being part of the 'doodle' world, that I spend hours making sure pups are placed well, If I got paid by the hour I would be a wealthy woman indeed. Definitely for the love of the breed.
May I ask, why do you breed?
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It is simply not permitted.
Maybe so, but that doesn't mean it's not going on and the CCs are turning a blind eye to it.
http://www.dailytelegraph.com.au/news/nsw-...i-1225995114283
Don't know if Kindee Kennels are registered or not?
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I've had on 2 occasions people say that my boy Elvis looks like a baboon because of his trim.
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I reply to most emails I get ... if I don't have anything available I often recommend friends that do or refer them to our
Clubs Puppy referral number.
I don't reply to emails that just ask "how much" and I also tend not to respond to emails that are sent to "bulk" recipients.
As a breeder, do you consider yourself as running a business?
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As a breeder/exhibitor of Toy Poodles, I don't breed very often, so therefore it is unrealistic for me to expect someone wanting a pet to be waiting up to a year for a puppy. I do keep a waiting list, however, by the time a litter has come, the people on my waiting list have found a pup elsewhere, which is quite understandable. In my breed there is however many breeders that don't exhibit, that have litters on the ground constantly.
There was a thread in general forum last week about breeders being rude and not answering emails, which has since been removed because it was getting out of control. One post stated that because I was running a business, I should reply to all emails I replied by saying that it is a misconception that all breeders are in business, as I know that I am NOT, I am an enthusiast and it is my hobby. But because I happened to sell pups on occasions, some people regarded that as being a business.
In my eyes, yes, selling a puppy is a business transaction where money passes hands and they receive a puppy, but to say I'm running a business is to me ludicrous. It was also asked that if I'm not running a business, why do I have a website, before I could answer the thread was removed, my answer would have been to showcase my dogs.
Some emails I answer, others I don't, it all depends on the email. I also go out of my way to help people find a pup from what I consider to an ethical reputable breeder if I don't have anything at the time. Toy Poodles are much exploited, so therefore, I choose to promote breeders that not only health test but also do the right thing by the dog.
What are your thoughts? What do you do when you get an email wanting a pup when you don't have any pups on the ground? How do you respond when you get an email not personally addresses to you that basically asking HOW MUCH?
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Would sewing machine oil be OK on the blades?
I was told yesterday by the guy that sharpens the blades, that singer sewing oil is the best oil you can use of them, and one of the cheapest. I'm about to go get some from woolies.
I just rang Ian for you about the sewing machine oil, he said that it has solvents in it as does the sprays. He also said that the reason he now has his own oil is because it has absolutely no solvents at all. Even wahl oil has some solvents but better than others on the market. He also said that atm he's a couple of days behind, due to christmas peaks for groomers was over, and most groomers have a lull around this time. Also, due to the humidity that we've recently had, he's had a lot of blades come in with rust. He really is the sharpening guru. You can choose to listen to the other guy if you wish, but, I doubt that he's as passionate about blades and scissors as Ian is. Ian goes to the states for seminars and sharpening comps in the US every couple of years. And he does quite a bit of winning.
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Would sewing machine oil be OK on the blades?
Not according to Ian Parsons. Before he had hid own brand of oil, he said that the wahl oil was the best. If you visit Ian's website you will see that he's a Certified Grand Master Sharpener. It is his life and his passion, he cares about blades & scissors as much as we care about our dogs.
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Wow thats some awesome advice, thanks heaps
From Ian Parsons, he's a second generation sharpener and he goes to the states for sharpening competitions. Yes there are sharpening competionsThe basics:
(1) Brushing
Purchase a wirebrush (brass for hairdressers) and brush the comb and cutter teeth free of all that dander that lodges in between the teeth. Don't worry that you are going to blunt a blade with a wire brush, your blade is carbon steel and far harder than than the wire brush bristles. I have sharpened many blades that were not blunt, but had so much dander in the teeth that it would no longer pick up the hair to feed the cutter, hence the groomer considered them blunt. Dander in the clipper teeth breeds bacteria and encourages rust.
(2) Oiling
Get some quality clipper blade oil. I will recommend Feather Edge Sharpening oil because it is solvent free and won't stain the human/animal coat. Never ever use vegetable oil. Natural oils oxidise to the point that they glue the cutter to the comb, and fill the teeth with gum often rendering the blade useless.
Oil the blade before you start and during the job. A tiny amount is all thats needed, you don't want the oil to bleed into the comb and get in the hair. Oil when the clipper blade is running, and blot with a rag once it is oiled.
Oil with the machine running and the cutter will work the oil out towards the edges of the blade. This is why a small amount of oil goes a long way. The plastic slide on the tension bar should never be dry.
(3) Cleaning
Cleaning is the area where there is much urban myth. The advent of blade sprays and washes has lead to new marketable products with little benefit. Any product that contains solvent has the potential to get into the clipper. So guess what? the solvent works it way up the driver lever and the grease gets stripped out of the gearbox. In time you get to buy new gearbox parts. I have seen blade wash solvents get far into the motors which is an area that should be strictly dry. Never use kerosine it excellerates clipper blade and gearbox wear.
The only thing I suggest you use is metholated spirits or denatured alcohol. So why?
1. Alcohol is hydroscopic (sucks up water) so clipper blade moisture is dissolved.
2. Non toxic to the user unless you take a fancy to having a swig of it
3. It evaporates quickly without residue and is unable to get into your clipping machine
4. Very cheap from the supermarket and easily avaliable.
5. Is not aggresive enough to strip the oil from the blade over a short time
6. Sterilises whatever it contacts
The use of blade wash or disinfectant actually strips oil out of the blade steel. Once the blade is re-oiled, and heats up it is goodbye oil. Blade wash is strong enough to liquify grease, so oil is no problem for it to dissolve.
The Main Points to Remember:
Corrosion takes place in the presence of water or blood. In order to minimise the harmful effects of corrosion; lube the blades with clear oil while the clippers are running. Remember rust starts work when you stop.
Dirt and grit on the coats of animals will increase clipper wear. Whilst it is not always practical to wash and dry every animal, top Groomers are able to clip many more clean dogs than dirty ones before blade sharpening. Modern high speed clippers allow Groomers many more dirty clips than was once possible.
Lubrication In contrast with sheep's wool, which contains a large amount of oil, most other animal hair is dry. For best results the blades should be oiled every 10-15 minutes with light clear oil such as Feather Edge clipper oil. Do not use a 3-in-1 oil, i.e. WD40 or vegetable oil, as these will leave a sticky residue after the volatile constituents have evaporated. Never use a mix of kerosene and oil to lubricate your blades (an urban myth from the 1960's), this combination destroys clipper gearboxes, and decreases blade life.
The primary reason that people complain that their clipper blades don't last long, is because they allow them to run dry during use.
Overheating Friction between the comb and cutter causes heat during use. During use, the hair and contact carry the heat away from the animals skin. Do not run the clipper blades for long periods unless they are clipping hair. Regular blade oiling also minimises blade temperature.
Clogging of the comb and cutter can occur from dander and other substances. Finer blades have a particular problem in this area, and may result in them being prematurely discarded. Cleaning with a wire brush all dander from the cutter and comb will enable further use before resharpening. Always ensure your blades are dry, (possibly from a warm drier) and oil to prevent corrosion.
Blunt blades should be wire brushed clean, and stored in a dry place prior to being put aside for sharpening. The result of tossing the blades aside encourages corrosion that needs to be machined out, and reduces the number of times they may be sharpened. Store blunt blades in a dry caddie such as the Blunt Blade Box
Ian Parsons does a great job sharpening, I know you live in QLD (I hope for your sake not Cairns or Townsville atm) but you can post scissors, knives and blades to him. He has a 24 hour turnaround period so providing Australia Post does a good job, if you sent them off on a Sunday, you no doubt will get them back by Friday. I actually go to his house where he works out of his garage. He's a really clean neat freak, very organised.
http://www.clippersharpening.com.au/genera...aintenance.phps
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From Ian Parsons, he's a second generation sharpener and he goes to the states for sharpening competitions. Yes there are sharpening competions
The basics:
(1) Brushing
Purchase a wirebrush (brass for hairdressers) and brush the comb and cutter teeth free of all that dander that lodges in between the teeth. Don't worry that you are going to blunt a blade with a wire brush, your blade is carbon steel and far harder than than the wire brush bristles. I have sharpened many blades that were not blunt, but had so much dander in the teeth that it would no longer pick up the hair to feed the cutter, hence the groomer considered them blunt. Dander in the clipper teeth breeds bacteria and encourages rust.
(2) Oiling
Get some quality clipper blade oil. I will recommend Feather Edge Sharpening oil because it is solvent free and won't stain the human/animal coat. Never ever use vegetable oil. Natural oils oxidise to the point that they glue the cutter to the comb, and fill the teeth with gum often rendering the blade useless.
Oil the blade before you start and during the job. A tiny amount is all thats needed, you don't want the oil to bleed into the comb and get in the hair. Oil when the clipper blade is running, and blot with a rag once it is oiled.
Oil with the machine running and the cutter will work the oil out towards the edges of the blade. This is why a small amount of oil goes a long way. The plastic slide on the tension bar should never be dry.
(3) Cleaning
Cleaning is the area where there is much urban myth. The advent of blade sprays and washes has lead to new marketable products with little benefit. Any product that contains solvent has the potential to get into the clipper. So guess what? the solvent works it way up the driver lever and the grease gets stripped out of the gearbox. In time you get to buy new gearbox parts. I have seen blade wash solvents get far into the motors which is an area that should be strictly dry. Never use kerosine it excellerates clipper blade and gearbox wear.
The only thing I suggest you use is metholated spirits or denatured alcohol. So why?
1. Alcohol is hydroscopic (sucks up water) so clipper blade moisture is dissolved.
2. Non toxic to the user unless you take a fancy to having a swig of it
3. It evaporates quickly without residue and is unable to get into your clipping machine
4. Very cheap from the supermarket and easily avaliable.
5. Is not aggresive enough to strip the oil from the blade over a short time
6. Sterilises whatever it contacts
The use of blade wash or disinfectant actually strips oil out of the blade steel. Once the blade is re-oiled, and heats up it is goodbye oil. Blade wash is strong enough to liquify grease, so oil is no problem for it to dissolve.
The Main Points to Remember:
Corrosion takes place in the presence of water or blood. In order to minimise the harmful effects of corrosion; lube the blades with clear oil while the clippers are running. Remember rust starts work when you stop.
Dirt and grit on the coats of animals will increase clipper wear. Whilst it is not always practical to wash and dry every animal, top Groomers are able to clip many more clean dogs than dirty ones before blade sharpening. Modern high speed clippers allow Groomers many more dirty clips than was once possible.
Lubrication In contrast with sheep's wool, which contains a large amount of oil, most other animal hair is dry. For best results the blades should be oiled every 10-15 minutes with light clear oil such as Feather Edge clipper oil. Do not use a 3-in-1 oil, i.e. WD40 or vegetable oil, as these will leave a sticky residue after the volatile constituents have evaporated. Never use a mix of kerosene and oil to lubricate your blades (an urban myth from the 1960's), this combination destroys clipper gearboxes, and decreases blade life.
The primary reason that people complain that their clipper blades don't last long, is because they allow them to run dry during use.
Overheating Friction between the comb and cutter causes heat during use. During use, the hair and contact carry the heat away from the animals skin. Do not run the clipper blades for long periods unless they are clipping hair. Regular blade oiling also minimises blade temperature.
Clogging of the comb and cutter can occur from dander and other substances. Finer blades have a particular problem in this area, and may result in them being prematurely discarded. Cleaning with a wire brush all dander from the cutter and comb will enable further use before resharpening. Always ensure your blades are dry, (possibly from a warm drier) and oil to prevent corrosion.
Blunt blades should be wire brushed clean, and stored in a dry place prior to being put aside for sharpening. The result of tossing the blades aside encourages corrosion that needs to be machined out, and reduces the number of times they may be sharpened. Store blunt blades in a dry caddie such as the Blunt Blade Box
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Ian Parsons is terrific, if you want to clean the blade, use a wire brush and soak in metho.
http://www.clippersharpening.com.au/genera...aintenance.phps
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laugh.gif Thanks Pewithers I feel like a goose. Yeah I will have a chat to him re her diet. She has no other health problems apart from the staining.
But then the old boy could probably do with a better diet!
Wondering too if it might improve once she is desexed, wonder if hormones have something to do with it. I was waiting till she was a bit bigger to get desexed cause she is small and fine boned and she just didn't seem big enough at 6 months to get desexed LOL. But she came on heat about 2 weeks ago so had to postpone it. Will be interesting to see if it makes a difference as well.
Sometimes when my girls come into season they have tear staining, it could be hormonal. Also extra lashes which is not uncommon with coated breeds can be a problem causing staining.
I know it,s a cosmetic problem but when showing, tear stains are not a good look. I actually use Tylosin sparingly. I would prefer not to but I feel I have no choice, it's what I've got and it works.
Some info on Tylosin
Tylosin (Tylan®) By: Dr. Nicholas Dodman
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Overview
# Tylosin is an antibiotic categorized further as a "macrolide". Other members of this class of antibiotics include erythromycin, clarithromycin, azithromycin, spiramycin, and dirithromycin.
# Tylosin is produced naturally by an actinomycete, Streptomyces fradiae. It is bacteriostatic, inhibiting bacterial protein synthesis through inhibition of the 50S ribosome and is active against Gram-positive and Gram-negative microorganisms, Mycoplasma, vibrios, and spirochetes.
# Tylosin is used as a food additive growth promoter in food animals. It is also used as an antibiotic to treat infections in farm animals.
# In small animals, tylosin has been used for its anti-inflammatory and antibiotic properties to treat colitis.
It is also used to treat infections of other organ systems, notably the respiratory tract and skin.
# Tylosin is a prescription drug and can only be obtained from a veterinarian or by prescription from a veterinarian.
# Tylosin is not approved for use in dogs and cats by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) but may be legally prescribed by veterinarians as an extra - label drug.
Brand Names and Other Names
# This drug is approved for use in farm animals.
# Human formulations: None
# Veterinary formulations: Tylan® (Elanco) and various generic formulations.
Uses of Tylosin
Tylosin is used in a variety of ways including:
# To treat colitis in small animals
# To treat small intestinal bacterial overgrowth in dogs (and perhaps cats)
# To treat pulmonary, dermatologic, or other soft tissue infections caused by group beta-hemolytic streptococci and mycoplasma pneumoniae in small animals
# To treat susceptible infections in large animals
# As a growth promoter in food animals
Precautions and Side Effects
# Tylosin should not be used in animals with known hypersensitivity or allergy to the drug or other macrolide antibiotics.
# Gastrointestinal disturbance, resulting in diarrhea, may occurs after oral administration.
# One drawback associated with oral administration is tylosin's foul taste, which is difficult to disguise.
# When tylosin is administered in the muscle or under the skin, pain and local reactions may occur at the injection site. Skin itching may occur as a result of treatment with tylosin.
Drug Interactions
Tylosin may interact with other medications. Consult with your veterinarian to determine if other drugs your pet is receiving could interact with tylosin. Some interactions may include:
# Digitalis: Tylosin may increase digitalis blood levels and thus its toxicity.
# Chloramphenicol or Lincosamides: Tylosin may be antagonistic.
# Laboratory Tests: Macrolide antibiotics may cause falsely high readings of serum AST and ALT when colorimetric assays are employed.
How Tylosin is Supplied
# Tylosin is available in an oral form that is concentrated at 2.7 gm/5mL (level teaspoonful) in 100 g bottles.
Dosing Information
# Medication should never be administered without first consulting your veterinarian.
# Doses of tylosin vary widely depending on the reason for prescribing.
# The duration of administration depends on the condition being treated, response to the medication and the development of any adverse effects. Be certain to complete the prescription unless specifically directed by your veterinarian. Even if your pet feels better, the entire treatment plan should be completed to prevent relapse.
# In dogs, the usual dose is 5 to 10 mg per pound (10 to 20 mg/kg) every 12 hours for up to 6 weeks.
# In cats, the usual dose is 2.5 to 5 mg per pound (5 to 10 mg/kg) every 12 hours.
And
BACKGROUND
Tylosin is an antibiotic of the macrolide class (same class as erythromycin). It is made naturally by the bacterium Streptomyces fradiae and acts to inhibit bacterial protein synthesis by inhibiting the 50S ribosome, a cellular structure only certain bacteria have and use to make internal proteins. Mammals also have ribosomes to synthesize proteins but they are of a type not influenced by macrolide antibiotics.
HOW THIS MEDICATION IS USED
Tylosin is licensed for use in live stock as a broad spectrum antibiotic in treatment of infection but it has other uses that have little to do with its antibiotic activity. In small animals, tylosin is not used as an antibiotic at all but as an anti-inflammatory. Its chief use is for the treatment of colitis. Here, it is not used as an antibiotic to treat infection but instead as an anti-inflammatory to soothe the large intestine. While few formal studies have been performed to examine this non-antibacterial property of tylosin, it certainly seems to work in this regard.
Another common use is to reduce tear staining, particularly in white colored dogs. Small breed dogs commonly have shallow tear wells which lead to tear overflow down their face, a condition called "epiphora." The subsequent red-brown staining of the fur from tear pigments is felt to be unsightly and through an unknown mechanism tylosin seems to alleviate this condition; in fact, the Angel Eyes® product listed above is marketed exactly for this use. There are two controversies regarding this use of tylosin. The first is with the Angel Eyes® product itself. This product is a beef-flavored chewable but the exact amount of tylosin is not specified on the label which means one's pet would be using an unknown amount of drug daily. Obviously, if one is going to use a drug one should at the very least know how much is being used. As an alternative to Angel Eyes®, a precisely dosed capsule can be provided by a compounding pharmacy. The second controversy is whether or not it is even appropriate to use an antibiotic daily for a cosmetic problem. Casual use of antibiotics is responsible for antibiotic resistance of bacteria in the environment and, in general, bacteria that become resistant to tylosin also become resistant to erythromycin. Since tear-staining is simply a cosmetic issue, perhaps non-antibiotic treatment could be used instead. For more details on this please visit the page on epiphora.
Tylosin can also be used in ferrets, rabbits, and pocket pets.
SIDE EFFECTS
While there is definite side effect potential in large animal species, dogs can tolerate very high doses of tylosin with no adverse effects. The biggest problem with small animal use seems to be the especially foul taste of tylosin which necessitates formulation into capsules, which is usually done by a compounding pharmacy.
Tylosin may falsely elevate certain liver blood tests (ALT and AST).
INTERACTIONS WITH OTHER DRUGS
Tylosin can increase digoxin blood levels and should be used cautiously in patients taking digoxin for heart failure
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http://www.standard.net.au/news/local/news...ow/2062705.aspx
that's my friend Mel, She finished her Toy there. Well done Mel!!!!!!!
Pet Expo
in General Dog Discussion
Posted
Why didn't you? I wish you had. Although I was talking to so many people while at the poodle stand. So many people taking pictures. Twotty was so receptive and eager to say hello to so many people. A good day to be had by all I think. The only problem, she got so many pats it kind of knotted some of her coat.