Joan of Arc

Hi Newfie, Yes you can enter your Newfie in CCD at Wangaratta's trial ( or any other trial around Australia). And you should be able to use your entry forms that you have. Just remember to put on the entry what class you would like to enter, and any other info that is required. Pop it in a self addressed envelope for a reciept and put it in the post. It is a lovely trial and when I have gone up there in the past have really enjoyed the breaky that they put on for the competitors ( I hope that they still do) Have you got any passes with your Newfie yet? Cheers No, no passes yet........Annabelle is a re-home/rescue and we have been working hard for the past year to get over a lot of problems. She is the kennel clubs Social butterfly now, but she was very aggressive So we are starting on the 18th and taking it from there. we are both newbies Hi Newfsie welcome to DOL. Its nice to see you took my suggestion and joined our forums. IF it doesnt stop raining soon the social butterfly and her little black friend may never get to their first trial in Albury. I cant even get to training. I have plenty of entry forms for us and we can travel to Wangarratta together if the 'boys' are busy.

I got my lab from a breeder that breeds the 'show' type labradors and 2 of his siblings from the same litter went to be guide dogs. That is correct, many of us not only breed for confirmation but also supply pups to Guide Dogs in our relevant state. From Maddie's first litter 3 are in the show ring, one does obedience trials, one is a working guide dog and one is an assistance dog. One of the reasons Guide Dogs like to acquire the smaller pups is because a guide dog is required to sit at its owners feet in the front foot well of a car. If you have a great big bulky dog then it is very uncomfortable if not almost impossible. While I agree that they can appear a little finer in bone I think the term 'less robust' is not quite right. I take on board your meaning but we could find a more apt expression (just a comment not a dig). In some ways you are right in saying they appear to move more soundly - I think they are fit for movement in some ways. I know that some of the longer finer dogs are certainly better able to work all day in the field and its here that I think you see more of the two types of Labs. Sometimes you will see a dog bred for the ring beside a working gundog and they are certainly two very distinct types but then bred for two very distinct tasks. JMO

That is correct and the colour was produced by deliberately crossing lighter and lighter coloured dogs until the yellow was achieved. The colour seen the least today is part of the "yellow" colour classification and is actually a fox red colour. There are a few around and I have noticed over the past couple of years they are making a bit of a comeback.

QUESTIONS 1. What is my relationship with the breed? (ie breeder, first time owner etc) Breeder, exhibitor, obedience and working gundog 2. Where and why was the breed first developed? 3. How common is it in Australia? 4. What is the average lifespan? 5. What is the general temperament/personality? Gentle, faithful, playful, and full on at times and yet obedient. 6. How much daily exercise is needed for the average adult? A good walk /play or a swim for 30 - 40 minutes each day is usually enough 7. Is it a breed that a first time dog owner could easily cope with? Yes they are easy to train, minimal grooming, adjust socially to all situations 8. Can solo dogs of this breed easily occupy themselves for long periods? Yes if given the right environment 9. How much grooming is required? A good brush every 4 or 5 days is usually sufficient 10. Is it too boisterous for very small children or for infirm people (unless the dog is well trained)? THis could be said of any breed with the exception of the very small toy breeds. A well behaved dog is the end goal of all owners. 11. Are there any common hereditary problems a puppy buyer should be aware of? Yes you should only buy from reputable breeders who test for PRA, retinal dysplasia and do hip and elbow scores. 12. When buying a puppy, what are the things you should ask of the breeder? (eg what health tests have been done (if applicable) and what is an acceptable result to those tests so the buyer has an idea of what the result should be) The breeder you are dealing with should be able to provide you with copies of dam and sire's hip scores, DNA results for PRA and current eye certificates for both. The breeder should be confident in quoting the breed average for hip scores and know something of the background of the pedigree of the pups for at least 3 generations. One very important thing to remember when buying any breed is that you should do your research into the breeder, do not buy from a pet shop and remember that in reality you often 'get what you pay for'.

Try these http://www.secureakat.com.au/ http://www.soldsmart.com.au/l3.aspx?goods=...CFYItpAoduU77BQ http://www.catsofaustralia.com/cat-enclosures.htm

You are welcome to use any of my dogs, which include Labs and Pharaoh HOunds. PLus I have a great shot of a visla that you could use. Just let me know what you want and I can send photos to you.

If you can afford it why not buy a nice big aviary? Use that as your cat run.

Precautions such as those suggested are excellent but I agree that it would be far more beneficial for all concerned if your friend had her dog vaccinated. Then she could bring her dog to Kirri and Kirri would be socialising with other dogs.

You pup should be able to enjoy his own yard without being intimidated, annoyed etc by anybody. Regardless of whether the 'body' is another dog, a person or the neighbour's cat/s. Do you have any friends with other pups or bigger dogs? It would be great if your pup is socialised with other dogs and even better if they were to come to your house to have a puppy picnic. Not nice to suggest I know but once your neighbour's cat has been chased by a couple of bigger doggy friends it wont annoy your pup again.

kja I have been doing digital photography one night a week this term and have learnt a great deal. However for some reason I dont seem to be able to get my head around depth of field - just a mental blank I guess. I will certainly try your suggestion and rubiton's. Thanks for your help and will post results if they work.

Thanks heaps. I tried Krislin'[s technique and couldnt see much change, perhaps I did something wrong. Will go back and have another go in teh day light.

I am using a Canon EOS 450D. Can someone please tell me what setting to use to take three shots that show three depths of field. Yes I realise I should know but as I stated in photos post, I am having a really dumb day and want to get these shots done for assignment. Thanks in advance.

I always give my babies 4 meals a day until they are about 14 weeks bu tthe last meal is really a very light supper to tide them over till morning and is usually some warm milk and soaked biscuit. Cut that our at around 12 - 14 weeks and gradually feed the last meal a little later at night.

How old is your puppy? If you glance back a few days in the puppy threads you will see there have been a few threads over this same issue. It may be a settling in thing and could take a few days to pass. Ensure your pup feels warm, safe, secure and well fed and well loved. IF it still persists after a few days perhaps a vet check but if your pup is only 8 or 9 weeks it will probably pass.

You need to understand the general routine of a 9 week old pup - of any breed. They sleep for a short time, wake up and within 2 - 5 minutes of waking up they will pee and or poop. Then they play for a short time and pee and poop again. then they sleep again and repeat the process. The only time this process is altered is to include food, which of course will also mean that they eat adn then within 2 5 minutes they will pee and poop. So once you understand this process you can see your pup wake up, say good boy out side, and take him out to toilet. But dont just put him out the door you must actually walk around the yard with him so that when he does pee or poop you can tell him "good boy". Put the crate in teh kitchen and teach him to sleep in there by making going into the crate a positive thing. That means, a bone or a treat to entice him into the crate. None of this happens overnight, it will takes weeks to get it all right and you must be consistent.

After ensuring that there are no medical conditions to take into consideration two slices of wholemeal bread every day will soon make a difference. Plus sardines and cod liver oil are always good for an extra kilo or two

Firstly soak the biscuit in some warm water for about 5 - 10 minutes before you feed him. But he needs things other than just biscuits - he needs meat, milk and the occassional egg and maybe some sardines. Introduce all the new foods very slowly and in small amounts at first. Your 9 wk old puppy should be ok with steps if they are standard steps but if you are worried why not get a small piece of timber and make a ramp for him. Lastly, I think you puppy would be a great deal happier if he could sleep closer to you. You have replaced his mother and litter brothers and sisters - you are now the leader of his pack. He needs to be near you to understand his place in your pack adn to learn from you. Why not put his crate in the kitchen or laundry (or bedroom) at night.

IF you are raising two Labrador pups together you will have your hands full but more certainly so if they have been removed from their dam before 8 weeks of age. The same can be said for any breed, there is a reason reputable registered breeders have all these guidelines in place. I suggest that you contact the people you purchased these pups from and see if they will take at least one of them back. Although I dont really like your chances. In the meantime, join us in the Labrador thread where you can liaise with other Labrador owners who may be able to offer you some handy hints plus some support.

Great news Having been waiting all afternoon for you to report back. Now all we need is the photos and of course what you intend to name her. And dont forget to visit us all in the Lab thread on a regular basis (daily ) so that we can support you through the next two weeks.

shad, we are all waiting to see how your visit went.

Personally I believe there is nothing cuter and more loveable than a Labrador puppy - but I guess I am biased. Labradors do shed and shed as much as GSDs and other larger breeds. Lab pups grow into their energy, if that makes sense, they are sleepy young pups and as they grown their energy and zest builds. I have just noticed this more in Labs than many other breeds. A lab puppy will require something to keep it occupied while you are not home, otherwise it will become bored and this is where the breed develops the 'destructo' reputation. This includes treats such as kongs, a coke bottle with some biscuits in it ( the noise is as attracting as the biscuits)maybe a suitable sized bone when he/she is old enough and a couple of chew toys. Labradors need occupation, they essentially a breed that needs to work, either as a gundog, or obedience / agility or as your companion on walks, runs, swims, rides etc. If a Labrador is bored it will make its own entertainment and this could include the best azalea or digging its way to China or the clothes off the line. He/she should also be well socialised by attending puppy preschool and then obedience training. I maintain that a Labrador's sole desire is to please you so if you show them what pleases you and reward it then that's what they will give you. They need boundaries,but also need love and the more you give a Labrador the more you get in return. All that I have said is also true of every other breed of dog and certainly I would guess of the GSD. You will just have to go and visit some breeders, look at their pups and see which breed really pulls at your heart strings. Good luck.

To be owned by a Labrador is very special and you will be one of the luckiest people in the world. :p THings to remember are easy, bored labradors (especially pups) are destructive labradors. Keep things around him that will keep him busy. Toys, treat balls, plastic drink bottles make great toys because they can have a small hole cut in one section and if the pup rolls it around not only will it make great noise but he can get biscuits out of the hole. Puppy preschool and eventually obedience trianing are essential for any breed but Labradors thrive on it. They need boundaries, they need to know who is the 'Alpha' in the new pack they live in. After all a Labrador lives and loves to please. Lots of loves and cuddles, lots of games (age appropriate of course) lots of swims and walks etc and you will have no trouble. See you in the Labrador thread and one more thing to remember... WE LOVE PHOTOS AND LOTS OF THEM

A professional trainer could give you better advice than me but JMHO it means that the dog already sees you as the dominant or alpha male. On the other hand it can I believe be a sign of stubborness, for example if you were trying to get your dog to go outside and instead they just rolled over and their back and wouldnt come when called then they are being stubborn and trying to dominate you. The biggest advantage there is that 99% of Labradors are food driven so you show them the treat, get their attention and they will follow the treat. BUT they dont get it until they are actually outside the door where you want them. This means you are back in control. If they are submitting to another dog it means just that IMO. They are submitting instead of being confrontational and I dont see this as a flaw in their character and it may only be with one dog or be temporary. Good luck tomorrow (it is tomorrow isnt it?) and give us a report on your pup. Take photos lots of photos

Is this still considered to be appropriate behaviour? I wouldn't have a problem with it if my dog did that. But I wouldn't want it to lead onto something like running away etc... Shad quite often when you raise siblings together one is dominant and the other submissive. Not always though and in some cases the tables are turned depending on where you are. We raised siblings from Maddie's last litter and at home they are quite equal and very placid, but when we go to training, Cassie is inclined to sit a little behind Tina who is a very confident bitch at training. Take those same two girls to a dog show and Cassie is a showier bitch and loves the environment and Tina is just over excited. I guess that doesnt explain it very well but I hope you get the idea.

Agree, and I just avoid overly trafficked grassy areas. Stick to concrete where possible and if you must socialise with other dogs do your home work and dont be afraid to ask "Is your dog fully vaccinated" people who do the right thing wont be offended by the question. If they prevaricate then I would reconsider socialising in that quarter. Does that make sense?