dogdayz

Hopefully, though with no training this week it is probably forgotten until it happens again.

Strictly speaking she cant, but a couple of instructors and a couple of competition people do pick there classes as they know there dogs levels, and they use it more for distraction than true training (much as i do but i still go through the classes), so i guess others may feel they can do the same. Alternatively you can request an individual assessment, this is done with just you and any aggression issues would not show, howver this is normally only done for those moving to the area with dogs who have done plenty of training previously. I cannot imagine she could have done this as even on lead her sits, stays and drops were well below required standard. Certainly some people do consider their dog hard done by not to be put up, rose tinted glasses in some cases, but there have been times with my collie i did despair with instructor inconsistencies. I guess if you go into a class of your choice who can say otherwise - its not like anyone asks to see your class certificates. Maybe she got a very nice instructor one day and got moved up. I certainly wont be entering the members comp in a few weeks and doing distance stays with her in the class.

Sparty - rather than an assessment session. The dogs that reach class standard are put up that week, others are told what they need to work on and stay down. the reason my boy jumped two classes so quick was that he has been sick and also training elsewhere and i have only just returned him there, so he was starting effectively in a class he was put into almost a year earlier. YB - i understood why no action was taken in the class itself simply you dont need an arguement in the middle of training, but i was suprised nothing was done after, particualrly as 2 fights happened right outside clubroom doors. Like i said he was telling her to keep it on lead but she ignored it. I'll take my other dog next time as i know she wont be reactive if it bothers us, but i will definiely report it if it happens again. I dont want my dog getting the blame if he ends up biting it. A few weeks back when i was there an instructor mentioned there had been an incident (with damage) involving two dogs (he said it was this breed but didnt mention the individual concerned), did anyone see that? If its more than just 'an off day' they will have to do something.

I have large breeds so i guess a little of something bad may not affect them but could be a big dose to a small breed. I certainly feed eggs, garlic and fruit, including whole apple and tomato. isnt there something about pizza as well thats bad - cant remember exactly which of the toppings it is. As for tobacco products, less said the better, one of my cats has always chewed on the butts when he gets the opportunity , but offer him chicken and he turns his nose up.

It is suprising as another dog previously was required to be muzzled and she only used to lunge at dogs, never actually got involved in any fights. I suspect its the owners status and it being a small dog that is allowing this one to get away with it - the previous was a staffyx handled by a young boy, they would be an easier target i guess. Strangely last time i came across it was two classes back when it was being aggressive on lead during weaves, and certainly it did not get moved up with us, and we rose 2 classes in past two weeks so i think this is a case of the owner selecting her own level.

Has just come to light that owner is a commitee member

That was my interpretation of rules, but as my dog was not involved in any of the incidents i wasnt sure i can really make an issue. Her other dog same breed older by a year is the same and has quit obedience but still does agility there (hence i do not). Im not sure either are genuinely aggressive or just show the tenacity their breed is reputed for. I dont know how this dog has come to be in this class, some owners seem to just put themselves in the one they see as appropriate because they dont agree with the instructor.

I take my dogs to an obedience school to help with their distraction training. They are both in an advance level class which involves both on and offlead work. You are free to work offlead if you feel you can control the dog. There is a small breed in the class, who before the lesson had a fight with a larger dog when left unsupervised while its owner was in club room. During class, owner decided to work offlead, dog immediately races over to another small dog and starts growling/barking. The owner of the second dog (which was behaving fine if a little scared) picks up her dog. The first dog is the leaping at her barking/growling. Its owner still has not gone to retrieve her dog, just stood laughing. Instructor sends her to get dog, she walks over slowly and retrieves dog. She continues to try and do offlead despite her dog being completely unready for it, and the instructor repeatedly telling her to use her lead. After lesson owner of the small dog that was picked up told the other what she thought of her. So owner of the aggressor dog claims she cannot go get the dog as it would run away so she has to wait for it to come back of its own accord. Meanwhile her dog outside has picked another fight. Now i can see that as she cannot take her dog in the clubrooms she has to leave it tied up, and when other owners see a tied up unsupervised dog they should keep there own dog clear. i can also see that everyone at some point has to step up to offlead work. Is it unreasonable for myself to ask for said dog to be muzzled or kept on lead after this behaviour. I cannot take one of my dogs to that class while she continues to work offlead, as he has had fear aggression problems in the past and i dont want any backwards steps, and due to size difference if he were to bite it would be bad.

Thats good then. I know Skye will even get disturbed by some owners at training who go into huge excitement sessions with their own dog, even though she is very outgoing herself. Skye is also a terror for tissues she tears them up into little pieces.

I have in the last two weeks discovered smoked chicken - skye will do anything you ask of her for some of this, where other food rewards have pretty much worn out their usefulness with her. She is even working for the clicker with it - something she has refused to do before.

Personally i give my dogs about 10 days settling in time without really getting into training. All they learn is basic manners in those 10 days e.g. dont jump up, dont snatch food, sit and wait for their food bowl to go down, give up a toy/bone (careful as you are teaching an adult not a pup). Just being in a new environment will effectively tire her a little anyway, and she still needs to work out you are her owner/master. Frankfurters slice thinly (about 1mm thick slices). With collies being a little shy, i wouldnt go to overboard with the hugs,kisses, loud voice rewards as it may intimidate her a little, keep it to praise and rubbed head/chest Personally at this stage i would reward 'bonding behaviour', ie. sit down with her and if she makes eye contact with you give her a reward, and if she comes when called reward her. Train on an empty stomach, i always train just before their morning and evening meals. Training does not need to be lenghty sessions, little and often works better. as far as intitailly getting her to come when called that doesnt need to be formal session. I will often just call my dog when he is in the same room just to enforce that he is required to respond appropriately. Find good toy motivator - i take my dogs to the pet supply and let them choose, squeaky or rabbit fur is always popular. Dont expect progress in leaps and bounds at this stage, just enjoy yourself becoming her best freind for a while. While you are doing that go and see a few obedience schools - go and watch them train and find the style you are comfortable with. ETA. carry a few food rewards just in your pocket, so if she does something you like e.g. coming to you without being called you can reward her on the spot.

Sausage is always popular, and frankfurters.

There are some very successful collies in agility, as well as obedience, herding, tracking. My own collie does some agility however will probably not ever excel (under VCA rules anyway). Simple reason being collies are one of the breeds that straddle the medium and large dog height categories. My own girl just crosses into large dog which is hard for her to maintain the jump height over a series of jumps she will stop enjoying it. So i jump her for fun/exercise but at medium heights Thats not to say those that fall into large dog dont do well, some do. They are not as zippy as a border. And in all activities Skye will get bored quite easily, and will switch off/sulk, and though completing a task they will make it clear she is not happy, so its important to find what makes your dog want to work. I find to much repition is very bad, Skye does better straight back after two weeks off than when she has had a week of training. I generally aim to have fun with her, and if we collect the odd title along the way then thats a bonus.

I have a weim and a collie - they went the first year of their lives not allowed indoors (ex-partner who didnt like it). Once they were allowed in we have had one accident total (more scent marking by the then entire weim). They sleep through the night indoors now with no accidents. It has been far easier than with a pup. Collies are the best choice of dog (only a little biased).

Beck will try to hold on - asa pup he used to sit in front of you as you walked along and cry, because he needed to go home to relieve himself. Skye feels its her duty to go anywhere she visits and will always find something inside her, she seems to have a reserve of number two's.

I will swap you Hobbes for Skye at the moment. She has a bad stomach after yesterdays surgery, which on a collie rough is never good, but with 8 inches of stitches I cannot bath her either, put that together with her being confined in the house and it really isnt pleasant.

It was a fun experience, though i think i did more running than either of my dogs (sorry, Nat but i brought Skye down lateer in the afternoon after you had left). Mine seemed interested when it was going down the initial straight but lost interest/focus once changing direction, and Skye decided the cover over the criss-cross was the scariest thing she has seen in her life. I dont think they are beyond hope certainly the guy doing it thinks they both will get it, so we will give it another go.

Two questions raised by my OH when i said i was taking my dogs this sunday, can someone answer for me please. 1. when my weim gets over-excited he is going to be hard to recal, is he enclosed, do they stay where the lure finishes, will i be running around like an idiot trying to catch him , if i am will i be the only one. By the way he normally has very good recall but this may just send him over the top. 2. are they more likely to start chasing the cats. This is more a concern with the collie as she already tries herding them .

will be seeing you there with one or two dogs then.

At KCC on 20th? All breeds? Do you need to enter in advance or can i just turn up with dog? Never tried it but think my weim would love a run. Is it enclosed? not sure about my collie, i have heard the lure is a plastic bag - she has some irrational fear of moving plastic bags

Do you mean to tough to bite - i find my weim can break any bones no problem. or do you mean too strong/rich - do you know his allergy source. I dont believe Turkey to be really any richer. kangaroo tails are also well designed for teeth cleaning

If he is like my weim he will swallow chicken necks whole. Maybe source turkey necks - certainly Coles near me are selling them (though expensive). I use lamb necks to keep my boys teeth clean (he is allergic to chicken) though lamb is fatty of course.

yep, chicken wings are hopeless for dieting dogs. My collie has had one a day the last week as i was buying them for Bailey the rescue dog. Despite cutting out her normal raw kangaroo each night when I looked at her last night and could not find a rib without pushing hard, where before she was at healthy fit weight.

My boy at 2 years old, stands a full 27inches at shoulder so is about as big as they get, and weighs in at 40kg and would be 'show' weight, and will lose about a kg for full fitness/agility. When he was 10 months he weighed 36kg and was overweight, and probably 2 inches shorter at most. Can you find his ribs by touch, are they visible?

and they are particulalry vicious down there this week.