spanky

Might be worth contacting Steve from K9 Force and seeing if he can recommend anyone in their area.

That is where I went when I first got Griffin, but was unsure about taking Callista there as the vet had no idea about what hemi-vertebrae were when I spoke to him about possible problems prior to agreeing to taking her from the breeder. Might be worth giving them another shot.

Hi All Since I got such a wonderful inside on Canine Country from DOL, I'm hoping I can get some recommendations for a vet on the southside of Brisbane. Around the Stones Corner / Mt Gravatt / Rocklea area (anywhere with in this area or just outside preferred). I have a lovely vet that I take the dogs to at Indooroopilly, but it is not really close to home, so I'm thinking I probably need to find one that's a little bit more local. I have two French Bulldogs - both desexed, 1 has CRF, the other has back problems / itchy feet and nose folds. Generally I see a hollistic vet, who I will continue to see, but I need one to do the other stuff - such as blood tests, dental stuff, emergency visits (eg fluids for CRF) and this is why I'd like one close to home. Currently paying $56.00 for consult, $44.00 for urinalysis and $80.00 for blood profile (CRF levels), but not necessarily looking for a cheaper vet. Just after recommendations for someone that is good, thorough and up-to-date with treatment options. Thanks!

I have to ask... all the cattle dogs I've ever met have been very aggressive dogs. I have always been wary of them as a breed, because the ones I've met were snappy and quite scary. Is this normal for the breed? I'm in the process of researching the best breed to herd cattle and it's obviously what they were developed for, but I don't want a dog that is going to bite someone for knocking on the front door.

I have some questions about the Aussies... I know I should probably wait for some info to be posted, but anyway.... What are they like temperment wise compared to other working dogs (BC / Kelpie / Cattle Dog in particular) What are they like to work? Is it a case of picking the right breeding and puppy? Would they be able to work cattle? I've heard they can be quite difficult to train compared to other working breeds, is this true? Look forward to replies... thanks

I have tried them. She was eating them at the time of her most recent reaction. So I've moved towards making my own... plus without using biscuits I'd go thru one of the 12 patty boxes in 3 days.

Thanks guys, I hadn't discovered Canine Country... think I'll be making a trip in the next few days. I've just finished the next couple of weeks worth of food making, so I'll visit them and do another batch during the week.

Hi All My female frenchie has to have a diet change, as we (her vet and I) believe that she is reacting to carbs and yeast in her food. She is getting regular yeast infections in her ears and her nose folds are red and loosing hair. The local pet supply places sell roo mince and lamb pieces, but no offal and no bone content in the meat. I can't feed bones on a regular basis as my other dog has CRF and isn't allowed bones, which makes feeding bones very tricky (he has aggression issues). Roo mince isn't cutting it for her, as she is an extremely active and I'm finding it difficult to keep weight on her. Also can't use chicken / beef as it makes her itchy and she chews her feet. I need some help from any raw feeders in Brisbane that can point me in the direction of a good meat supplier... I'm looking for the following: Sells lamb, pork & roo mince (prefer with ground bone content) Doesn't sell everything combined with chicken & beef Sells offal from something other than a cow - unless someone can confirm that it won't bother her like beef mince does I'm on the southside, but don't care if I have to travel to buy food for her. Thanks heaps

I don't have the link with me at work, but there was a paper released by the world small animal veterinary association about vaccinations in pets. Basically the WSAVA is promoting the 3yr vac and wanting to move away from 1yr vacs. It might help convince your vet if you can get your hands on it. Some vets don't know about titre testing or charge like a wounded bull to do it for you.

$200+ thats so expensive. Any idea how they break down the cost? I'm in Brisbane and it costs a little over $90 for my vet to do it. She sends the blood via QML to the lab in Perth. My normal vet won't promote the 3yr vac either, for the concern that people won't bring their dogs in for yearly check-ups. The hollistic vet does the 3yr or titre, because her clients are in on a regular basis anyway and she trusts them to bring the dogs in annually. It's interesting to see that there may not be a great difference between the 1yr and 3yr vacs.

Kennel cough still needs to be done yearly. With vaccs there is a general understanding now that pets are over vaccinated, so the best approach is to get your dog vaccinated with the 3yr vac and take the dog in for an annual check up each year between vaccs or titre test every 12mnths. The titre test checks the level of antibodies in your dogs blood and you only need to vaccinate if the levels fall below a certain number.

Ok, I skipped much of this thread... after 6 pages it started going in a few circles. Now if I might wade on in... Do I think vets charge too much on drug mark-ups? No. Why do I think that? My vet cares for and has helped my dogs, if they cover some costs by charging a mark-up on drugs, so be it. I'd rather a drug for my dogs be dispensed by my vet then going to a chemist to get a prescription drug and figuring out dosages. I to agree with needing to be able to afford your dogs medical costs. My male frenchie is at the vet on a drip tonight and without asking today they offered me the cost of their consult over the phone and then gave me an estimate of his treatment that I had to agree to before he was admitted. $500 means nothing if it keeps him away from his kidnesy failing, which would probably happen if I didn't treat, so it's important to be able to afford unexpected vet bills. A consult with my vet is $54.50, less for a repeat visit, and I don't always leave with drugs. I'd prefer to continue to pay this amount and a higher price for drugs, than the other way around. To give a comparison, an inital consult with the holistic vet is $110.00, repeat visits are $60.00 and occur more frequently than the normal vet. I pay around $40 for the herbal tablets for my female every 2mths and this is fairly similar to what the acupuntcturist at my work charges for a similar product for humans. At the end of the day, the vet gives you a diagnosis (as does a GP for a person), you are well within your right to turn down the suggested course of treatment (just like a person can do with a GP). It's personal choice if you follow it or not, which leaves you with the option to shop around. Personally I don't play with my dogs lives, I pay the price and thank the vet for being able to find the problem with no communication from the patient about how they are feeling.

The mix once soaked is not that sloppy, so you would be fine to do it the way you suggested. My holistic vet knows Bruce Symes and is really impressed with the scientific work he has done to develop the different products sold via VAN. We are using it to try and solve Callista's skin issues (along with chinese medicines) as I don't want her on cortizone (sp?) for prolonged periods.

I've switched from the BARF paties to the VAN premium mix (meat and complete mix) to try and solve a skin issue that I can only put down to the BARF. Callista loves it. One thing I noticed is the BARF paties seem to be really watery compared to the VAN. Callista is only 2wks into the diet swap, so hoping it does the trick.

Just had to drag up this thread. I received some photos from Jane today and had to share some photos of Callista. I've been very very very slack with her TID program... haven't done the first section yet... tug toy anyone??? I need to get one like I had on the day (from Steve) cause everything I've used so far she has destroyed and Steve doesn't have any in stock right now. So, here are some of the pics.... This was the only one that didn't show my butt or make me look like Calli was pulling me all over the shop Showing the whites of her eyes Sitting... in the hope she gets the tug back And one of Griffin, so he doesn't feel left out... excuse the lily white construction worker legs How is everyone else going with their training???

I was advised to get Callista's 12mnth booster (around 20mnths old) and to titer test after that instead of an annual vaccination. My vet advises to titer test on an annual basis, as she has seen cases where a dogs levels have dropped. It's been a little while since we had a chat about it, but I think (someone correct me if wrong) that the titer results must come back higher than 20 to be able to say the dog has immunity. If it is lower than that a new vacc must be given. My vet is a member of the Australian Small Animal Veterinary Association, which belongs to part of an international group, and really advocates the titer test or 3yr vacc, with a yearly health check. I've posted this link before, but it is a pretty interesting read on where the WSAVA would like to see vacc's in the near future.... WSAVA paper settrlvr - sorry if my comment on kennels was incorrect, it was just what my vet told me... and maybe she did mean it more in a 'if I explain the titer process they maybe more inclined to accept it' way, than a they must accept it way. Plus one of my dogs has CRF and the other a nerve condition... so yearly vaccs are better avoided for me.

Just to add a bit about kennels not accepting titers.... My vet has told me that if I ever need to kennel my two and they won't accept the titer results, I am to get the kennel to call her. Aparently kennels are supposed to accept titers, it's just that many don't know what they are or how it all works. I'm in Brisbane and my vet sends the blood to Perth for testing, via QML Pathology. Griffin's test cost me $90.

I'm not going to wade into this converstation, as I don't have enough experience and as K9 Force knows... I haven't neutralised my dogs (didn't have either from pups) and I'm yet to start Callista's training in drive program... but... Having spent a full weekend at one of the workshops run by K9 Force, I can tell you that sitting at a computer and reading about his methods and reasons for them do not do him justice. I had not heard of neutralisation prior to the workshop and I will raise my next pup by K9 Force's program. Maybe some will say he brainwashed me (Midol some back-up please that this didn't happen), but honestly when you hear his reasons for developing his methods... well they make plain simple sense. My next dog will be happy (tolerate) for someone to approach and pat them, but will not seek those pats out. They will be able to play with my nieces, nephews and my own children without going into hyper mode (ie. hit peak drive) and they will listen to me when called and given a command. Maybe I could achieve this with obedience training and socialisation (percieved traditional methods), but why spend time exposing my dog to bad behaviours and then train out the undesirable stuff, when I can spend my time following a neutralisation method that achieves the same outcomes in a shorter timeframe and gives me a dog that should be more focused, happy and well-adjusted (the should being based on me being committed to the program)??? All I really wanted to say is that if you see past the accepted methods of training and move beyond the 'I don't want a robot for a dog' mentality... you will see the benefit of what K9 Force is saying. People think I'm weird for taking my dog to acupuncture for a back injury, but this kind of treatment is becoming more widely accepted for dogs... we may see the day that the same is said for neutralisation.

On a happy note... I'm slowly getting thru this thread and while it's probably way to late to even attempt neutralising either of my dogs (7 and 1.5) I find the topic very interesting. I'm hoping I can still get some of the focus out of the dogs to look to me (and hopefully the OH) as the pack leaders and to have a bigger trust in them when we start taking them camping with us. I start drive training with my girl in a week or so.... how's that program going K9 Force .... and I'm pretty lucky with her that she's come pre-programmed not to be overly interested in dogs or people. Strange dogs probably rate about -3 to -4 for her, but she doesn't notice them once I have a toy in my hand. My first question is around the seperation... I completely understand why K9 Force keeps his new puppies away from the other dogs... but for those of us that aren't willing or able to do this, does it impact too much... especially if you only have 1 or 2 other dogs? Our aim is to purchase a farm within the next 5yrs and we'd like to run cattle, which in turn means we want a working dog, so I'm interested in understanding the level of neutralisation that would be recommended in this situation... as I've never owned a working breed before... let alone one that actually works.

After spending a weekend with K9 Force listening to him impart his knowledge and experiences, I can tell you that you are so wide of the mark suggesting he doesn't enjoy his dogs. So wide of the mark. Each person has the right to train their dogs the way they choose. K9 Force explained to us on the weekend that not everyone will want to train to the degree he does and that the boundaries he sets can be broken for pet animals... it all depends on the owner. Honestly, if you don't wish to discuss this topic in an effort to learn more about it, if your only reason for posting is to offend us control freaks, then I'd appreciate if you'd butt out of the thread. K9 Force and Erny and others have heaps of experience and guidence they can provide to those of us willing to learn, so please don't spoil that for us by coming in here and offering nothing constructive... apart from the potential to make people like K9 Force stop posting due to it becoming a waste of his time.

Too late now Midol, reputation is in ribbons!!!!!!!! Sparky, Frenchie here please!!! Your two were so good, are you sure you're not exaggerating?? ;) Tigerlily, it was great being your neighbour, lovely children and doggies. Must say, I really really fell for Mojo, a real goofball boy!! Gorgeous. Your daughter is the first child to stroke Monah without a LOT of supervision from me. although I was (cough cough) crapping myself, I was very pleased Monah behaved!! Your daughter is just lovely I too can't wait for steves next session in QLD. How about Hervey Bay Steve?? No, I would'nt do that to the rest of you !! The spinone is a real sweetie. I'd love to learn to properly use drive training for both dogs. Stupid question, my two do not like anything hard or rubbery (toys) so what would be an alternative to an orbee ball?? Anything at all?? Like a small soft toy?? Is it just as long as you have the toy at all times etc?? I'm guessing all other toys are removed and not used? sorry, I missed the sunday session after lunch. When the dog whinges and carries on for the toy do you ignore, get them to do something to have the toy or use a correction?? Not that Monah would ever whinge Also, OT. I had to have my 15 year old cattle dog PTS last night. Vet came to the house and daughter assisted him, Pindi had liver cancer and yesterday could not eat, drink, get up etc. She went downhill in a huge way from Sunday to Monday, very fast. Awful. we are devastated, she grew up with the kids etc. and was a very very very special girl. Waiting to see the change of dynamics here. RIP Pindi :D Bloody dogs Oh Monah, I've very sorry that you lost your old girl. It sounds like you did it at the right time though. Hmmm, TID... I'll be using a tug toy with Callista that I'll hopefully source from Steve... made from fire hose... as I need to be able to hold both ends of the toy with Calli. With time you shouldn't need to have the toy with you at all times, but the dog will still expect a 'reward' (even if it's a stick) from what I understand about the program. All toys should be removed between sessions. I sent my email to Steve saying to sign me up to module one today! Can't wait!!!

I have a couple of orbee balls that I bought from Steve - they are available on his website Callista was taking my fingers out using the ball. I want the tug that Steve was using, but they aren't on the website... might have to send him an email and find out where to get one from. Until she's a bit more focused I'd like to keep my hands away from where she's aiming.

Arrgggg... first fight... damn jealous / possessive prick of a dog. Anyone want a pied male frenchie??? I'll even pay transport costs Starving them both tonight. Did TOT this morning and neither of them cared about the food, so will try it again in the morning when they are hopefully hungry and get a reaction. I don't believe that it's cause they are looking for my release. So, where can I buy a good tug toy for Callista???

just frantically checked Roc. Just when I was recovering over the size of those horse flies. Not use to bugs you can saddle and ride yet!! Sparks only pic I got of your boy. Thats the best head shot I've seen of him ever. I'm hopeless with a camera And those horse flies were massive.... Callista was not happy about them at all... was trying to run away from one at one point poor thing, not much meat on her bones and she was definitely feeling the bites. Roc was very well-behaved on Saturday, he was the king just surveying his kingdom for the day. ETA: do you mind if I post the image link into the frenchie thread?

No tics on my two, but we never really left the training area, so maybe that's why. It was great to meet everyone and have a chat. I felt particularly lucky that Jane was in attendance and she was able to put Steve's info into context of what we're doing with my dogs... I'm so excited to get into the training and much more confident about it all. Think I might even try Griff for some drive Rottylover, I too would love it if you could keep us updated on how your boy progresses. Best of luck with it.