sheena

Not a bad idea. I might introduce a "stop" command. Using wait or stay while she is running might dissolve those commands which she already knows as certain behaviours. Though with the young guy, when he is approaching the table in Agility, we have to give the stay command before he hits the table, otherwise he flies over the top. :laugh:

I'm going to call my next pup "Linda"...don't ask me why I have no idea :laugh:

A lot cheaper if you make your own entirely & not difficult if you have a yogurt maker or a thermal pot. One tiny batch of culture makes 100 litres of yogurt, you just store the culture in the freezer. I get mine from here Green Living Australia, I also bought a milk thermometer to go with it....takes out the guess work & I make mine with powdered milk.

So do you click when she hits the ground then release & throw the treat, or do you click, treat then release then throw second treat.

I know someone who calls their dog "Bucket" & on the course she can swear & get away with it :laugh:

I'll try the two food game SPD & see how she goes. I do feel like we have to go back to basics & Yes, she will drop in front of me FR...with full recalls, she runs & drops at my feet & I think this is where she is getting confused. Bless her little paws, she trys so hard to please :laugh:

She will drop on que but will take several steps towards me before she does. I have been clicking & treating (throwing the reward back to her, but I am stuck on how to get her to drop almost instantly while running towards me. This morning I tried counting her steps & only clicking if the next time she took less steps before the drop otherwise I gave just a verbal, good girl, then released her & tried again. But she thought I was nuts & instead of dropping quicker, she thought she had to take even more steps towards me & then got confused because she wasn't getting rewarded for her efforts. I was thinking of getting someone to hold her on a lead & walk towards me, then when I give the Drop command the assistant stops & therefor she has to stop there too....clicking the moment she drops. Any other ideas

Sometimes I think my dog is more rewarded by playing catch, then she is with the actual treat :laugh:

I would be very surprised if they get through customs Those sniffer dogs are pretty good.

A demonstration of how to shape a dog using a clicker. That usually gets a WOW !!!!

Teach her to play catch with the food. With my dog, when I am playing LAT, she is obviously going to be fairly close to me, so when she looks at the distracting object, I click & she turns to me & I say "catch" as I throw the reward into her mouth. So now, she is getting two rewards for turning to me, the treat as well as the chance to play "catch" :) But practice "catch" first without the distractions, so she gets to understand that she has to catch the treat & you get your aim right. :laugh:

Yep...your timing would be off. You have to click BEFORE she reacts ie as soon as her eyes go in his direction & if she still carries on then you are too close to the problem. You need to work a long way away, but you have probably worked that out :)

CU & LAT.....are great

I found these gadgets worked well, but they don't take the place of daily searching & I only used them as a back up to chemicals. They are supposed to be waterproof, but I stopped using them as my dogs swim everyday & I got lazy with taking it on & remembering to put it back on. They say the battery is not replaceable but I had no trouble replacing the battery. Ultrasonic tick repellant

Where's the photo :)

Have they decided yet on who the judges are for the 2014 Nationals

I've noticed a lot of butchers cut across the bone for briskets, turning them into neat little choking squares. That's why I'd rather get whole flaps and cut them up myself, I've never had problems feeding out ribs that have been cut between the bones. Agree....I wish that I could find a butcher that would just leave them alone.....Obviously these butchers that cut them up into nice little choking squares don't have dogs of their own.

Both my guys are not keen on chicken, but wont knock it back. They much prefer turkey necks, maybe it has a much gamier flavour & not so bland. If I give them lamb brisket bones I like to be able to cut the brisket up myself, so there are a few complete bones to each section. Last time I bought it the butcher already had it cut into smaller pieces & one dog nearly choked on it, so never again. I get my turkey necks or wings from Woolies.

The Stay Loyal is 30% protein & 16% fat...I've got no idea if protein that high is a good thing or a bad thing. The BH Fish & Potato is 22% Protein to 14% fat. The SL main ingredients are a mixture of beef, chicken & tuna, then comes potatoes & beet pulp. The BH's main ingredients are Anchovy, Ocean fish & salmon meal, followed by sweet potatoes & ground brown rice. I would rather have sweet potatoes than just potatoes & I am not to keen on beet pulp. The price of the SL is $137 for 15 kilos while the BH sells for around $107 for 20 kilos. They both look like good products, but I just think the BH is better value, if that is the sort of kibble you wanted to feed. My two dogs are currently on the Black Hawk Fish & Potato. If you wanted to compare the two yourself then here are the links to both Stay Loyal & Black Hawk Fish & Potato :)

I guess it could have gone in the "Other" but that has been changed to read "Both" :)

Instead of Stay Loyal, why wouldn't you feed Black Hawk Fish & Potato (sweet), it has better ingredients, is a hell of a lot cheaper & is 100% Australian.

Good plan!! Just wondering though - I think the plank between two tables more about the movement and having the dog confident striding along a moving plank/driving to the end than it is about actual see saw performance? ie: Once you get full speed along the tipping plank then it is time to move to the wee saw concept. Agree. In the video Jen is training a full size seesaw & goes from a 4 inch drop to an 8 inch drop, working in both directions. So with the weesaw it would be the 4 inch then the 8 then the ground. She also does the "bang it" with the approach end up higher & gets the dog to jump onto the contact at the lower end to bang it to the floor, then increases the drop to the floor (bang). Not sure if I am making sense :laugh: She also rests the end up on milk crates & gets the dog to jump onto the contact from the side & treats for the position & staying in position. What she does make a point of, is that it is important that you don't give it your seesaw que until the whole lot is trained. And also don't give your normal release word unless the end is actually resting on the ground or the dog will think it can fly off the end.

Yep....don't cook them if they are for your dog. Maybe that warning is on there as they are probably meant for human consumption :)

After a trial on the weekend, a couple of the dogs in my class have gone up a level & therefor now need to get serious about the weesaw. So I am going to take the whole class, including my own two dogs, back to mid foundation (not the wobble board stuff). I have been watching Jen Pinder's "Sizzling Seesaws", where she places the board up on two different height pause tables & has the dog running confidently along the board which has a 4 inch drop. She is using treats from the hand, but I thought using a target might be better & maybe randomly treat from the hand or the target at the end of the board. She also runs the dog the other way as well, so it is running uphill to a slight drop. When the dog is confident, she then increases the drop etc. I may have to use something different to the tables as it is only a weesaw :)

I would only consider a 2o 2o position for a large dog. For a small dog I would have it running to the end, riding it down & staying 4 on the board till released.