megan_

see the thread in general: http://www.dolforums.com.au/index.php?showtopic=154924

Ask your vet - I'm pretty sure there are, as the anti-histamines (sp) that they inject at the vets are the same as human ones.

Frontline plus is waterproof but they shouldn't swim for 48 hours after application

Hydatid is not a problem if you source your bones, meat etc from a butcher. If you source your food from a pet supplier then it is an issue and you must freeze the meat and bones and regularly worm the dog with drontal.

Agree 100% - this dog needs a job to do. More restrictions = more frustrations. I think the family needs to decide if they are going to commit to give the dog the stimilation it needs (training, off leash running, playing with a ball, walks a few times a day) or whether they need to give her up to someone who can commit to this. I always find it strange that labs are often recommended as family dogs for young families (who often don't have much time on their hands). They are excellent family dogs when older but require a lot of work when they're young. To put it into perspective, I own a mini-schnauzer who is a similar age, he gets 2 walks a day (totalling 1.5 hours min, at least 1 hr of this is offleash with a group of other dogs, playing, fetching a ball), he has a treat ball that takes him hours to get to his food and he still wants to play fetch with me at night! And this is a dog that isn't helf as active as a lab... EDIT: And remove everything, and I mean everything from her reach. No remote, socks, shoes, pillows etc.

I use a small amount occasionally - haven't noticed a difference either way.

here's the link: http://www.dolforums.com.au/index.php?show...=151300&hl=

there is a similar thread to this froma while back....doing a search may give you some more info

I go to Croydon and Southside. Southside is less geared toward trialling and more toward 'doggy manners'. For recall, I'd suggest the Really Reliable Recall DVD and post a new thread to ask for advice on recalls. Recall is something you have to practice every day. thanks. I also like the idea of southside owning the grounds, so you can use it outside of training hours. We are practicing recall and he is reliable - when there are no distractions (ie other dogs). I'd like the formal training to help me establish when he's ready to cope with distractions 100%.

thanks. When and where?

I'm after an obedience school for my 10 month old puppy. I was going to a commercial one, but I wasn't happy with the atmosphere and times (2pm on a Sunday meant that I often missed it). I want to cut my losses (cost over $500!) and move onto something else. I'm not interested in trialling my mutt, but rather I want to join a dog club/obedience school so that he can continue to learn good manners and master the recall. Eventually, I'd like him to try flyball or agility for fun if he's interested. Does anyone have any suggestions on the good, bad or ugly? I've internet researched a bit and have come up with Croydon, Southern and Moorabin - but all are looking much the same? Thanks, Megan

moved location of post

The name was on a previous topic in this forum. Search for natural chicken treats :-)

If she's on a restricted diet perhaps ditch treats all together - they are very high in fat and lots of puppies can't handle them. You can train with praise as the reward - high pitched voice "good girl" etc.

thanks - I'll give this a try tomorrow

I have a 10 month old mini schnauzer cross, who is a bit bigger than your normal mini, but he's still a small dog. He is very well socialised with dogs of all ages and sizes. Recently, if he sees a small dog approaching on our walk, he stops and drops (better than he ever has at training). When the small dog approaches he jumps at them. No growling or aggressive behavior, it seems to be playful. Problem is that this scares a few of the littlies. He also doesn't like little dogs sniffing him - he turns and faces them, rather than letting them sniff his behind. He doesn't do this with bigger dogs - he is very respectful. I'm assuming that this is bad doggy manners and I should correct it (the drop and charge). I have tried to continue walking so that he'll stand, but he just digs in. I have also tried distracting him, but he's 100% focused on the incoming dog. Any ideas? Thanks, Megan

thanks

bump

I have a 10 month old mini schnauzer cross, who is a bit bigger than your normal mini, but he's still a small dog. He is very well socialised with dogs of all ages and sizes. Recently, if he sees a small dog approaching on our walk, he stops and drops (better than he ever has at training). When the small dog approaches he jumps at them. No growling or aggressive behavior, it seems to be playful. Problem is that this scares a few of the littlies. He also doesn't like little dogs sniffing him - he turns and faces them, rather than letting them sniff his behind. He doesn't do this with bigger dogs - he is very respectful. I'm assuming that this is bad doggy manners and I should correct it (the drop and charge). I have tried to continue walking so that he'll stand, but he just digs in. I have also tried distracting him, but he's 100% focused on the incoming dog. Any ideas? Thanks, Megan

Fergus loves burying his bones - no matter how hungry he is. He wags his tail, but cries, digs, re-digs etc. I once caught him eating a maggot infested chicken bone with crawling "meat". Disgusted me. Delighted him.

thanks everyone for the replies. I think I'm going to give Nature's Gift a go (based here in Vic), as I only give it every now and then.

While some dogs are self regulating - labradors are not! So no bikkies for him - he will eat them regardless of whether he is hungry or not. Not 100% sure of this, but I recall something re: BARF (to use as a guideline) that a puppy should get fed 3 - 4% of its weight daily. You should be able to see a clear waist (when the dog is facing away from you) and should be able to feel, but not see, its rib cage without pressing too hard. Given your dog won't be small it is important not to grow him at the maximum rate - so if he goes a bit hungry it isn't the end of the world.

The Orijen cat food issue has opened my eyes - I didn't realise Orijen was classified as fresh food so got irradiated. Regardless of what caused the issue, I'd rather feed my dog kibble that hasn't been subjected to this process. He is fed a RAW diet 90% of the time, but I occasionally give him kibble as a top up when we have a high exercise day. I have been using Orijen but does anyone have suggestions for a local, good quality (no wheat etc) kibble? Thanks, Megan

if the product is being recalled, you can post the name of it. Also note that if a product is made in Australia there is absolutely no guarantee that it doesn't contain Chinese ingredients (there is a difference between Australian Made and Made with Australian ingredients). Even then, the Australian chicken that went into the treats could have been fed Chinese corn etc. Unfortunately in Australia we don't require manufacturers to specify where everything comes from.

10 days is a long time to be indoors....my vet said 24 hours inside, and 1 week of not playing in puddles. re: the running away, this might have nothing to do with the desexing, but rather their age. My pup used to stay with me in my unfenced front yard while I collected the post, put the bin out etc, then at 5 months he just took off one day. They are at the age when they want to explore and will, if given the chance.