Red Fox

Breed profiles on the main home page http://www.dogzonline.com.au/breeds/profil...de-bordeaux.asp

Heeeeeeeeeere fishy, fishy, fishy I'll see if I can find the ones I was talking about. Can't really remember where I saw them.... eta, still looking but found this; http://pawspoint.com.au/bowls-2/?gclid=CML...CFQPTbgodWDyfDw heaps here too; http://www.worldforpets.com.au/products/Ca...?CategoryID=152 http://www.etsy.com/category/pets/bowl

Awwwww i like my cheap stainless steel bowls I have seen some around the place that are plain steel but sit into a nice decorative stand. That may be something else to consider if you are worried about ceramic getting broken.

Clever boy

Does she like to tug? What about a bungee chook; http://www.aussiedog.com.au/products/dog_r...ok/bungee_chook What about digging? If so a sandpit. Squeaky balls, "giggle' balls (that make a funny nosie as they're moved around, toys that bouce randomly when she thows them, balls on a rope that she can throw around (like an Orbee ball), realistic type soft toys... Have a look here: http://www.cleanrun.com/index.cfm

Most vets push the heartworm vacc. I'm not sure why? Perhaps they really do believe that it is the best option or have little faith in peopl keeping up a regular worming routine. Or perhaps they have another agenda altogether. Personally I wouldn't touch it if you paid me. There have been known reactions (do a search both here and Google) and deaths. It has been withdrawn from the market overseas. It's also not recommended to be given at the same time as other vaccinations. Re your original question we use Interceptor (same as Sentinel but without the flea component), given once every 6 weeks. it is safe to give every 6 weeks and states this on the pack - monthly is easier for people to remember though. Sentinel only stops the fleas from breeding (makes them sterile I think?) so it's good for that little extra protection if your dog picks one or two up, but won't treat a flea infestation. As I've never had a problem with fleas I'd rather treat them if and when a problem arises. Plus it is one less chemical I am having to put into my dogs system. Yes, I treat all year round for heartworm, being that we are in a high risk area. If I lived in a colder climate I would not though. I do like Interceptor/Sentinal as they treat for all worms including hydatids, plus they are reasonably priced. Personally I'm not a fan of spot-on's. Another option is to treat for heartworm monthly + intestinal worms once every 3 months. There are combo packs available for this too. I hope that helps somewhat and hasn't confused you even more.

C-crate Secura Pen? http://www.ccrates.com.au/store/index.htm Bono Fido make a similar one too I think. Otherwise try Vebopet, eBay, Deals Direct, etc. Top Buy have a few, both wire and soft pens up to 107cm's tall that are reasonably priced http://www.topbuy.com.au/tbcart/pc/Carries...Houses-c161.htm If you wanted more room you could easily connect two together. I've seen shade type roofs for pens too but can't remember where? Hope that helps

What's parvo like in your area? The thing with this disease is that it can travel - it can be carried in on the shoes of owners, visitors... unless you're going to take the precaution of removing your shoes before you enter the house, never taking the puppy outside, having all family members and visitors wash their hands and remove their shoes (including the kids) or you plan on living in a bubble, then the puppy will still be at risk. And tell me how many owners take ALL of those precautions? I wouldn't be horrified at the puppy toileting on it's own front lawn. Perhaps concerned if it's not on a leash and being exposed to wandering dogs but that's another issue altogether. You will get differing opinions on this too but keeping a pup confined to it's house/yard until it is fully vaccinated (ie 2 weeks after the last vaccination) can be (and is IMO) detrimental in the long run. There needs to be a balance between protecting your pup/common sense and socialisation/neutralisation. That said a pup from rescue or a reputable breeder has usually had it's first vacc by the time it is ready to come home anyway. Personally, from what you have described I'd be more concerned at the age of the pup. 5 weeks is way too young. Even a rescue should have been kept with it's mother/littermates until at LEAST 6-8 weeks of age. From the K9 Pro puppy development calender; This pup may benefit from a good puppy school if there is one in your area. Sure go and have a chat with the owners if you like, they probably have no idea. Perhaps offer them a book or a print-out on puppy care if you have one (vets will often supply this if you ask). Something along the lines of "oh I saw your new puppy the other day, I have this from when my dog was a pup and thought it might be useful for you". They may listen and appreciate the help, they may tell you to bugger off. Unfortunately you can't save everyone. This may help: http://www.dolforums.com.au/index.php?showtopic=117592 http://www.dolforums.com.au/index.php?showtopic=150837

Ok, so dragging him away is fine? I've been doing this most of the time anyway then using the lure when he is really persistent. But he is a little dog and in a harness so I can easily pull him away I just wasn't sure if that was the right approach or not. One thing you can do if you are not quick enough with the leave it command (or have stopped for whatever reason) and the dog becomes engrossed in a scent, is to apply pressure gradually on the leash (not yank the dog off it's feet!). Then as soon as the dog 'gives' to the pressure praise and reward. He'll soon learn to come along with only a slight tug. Little pops (corrections) on a flat collar may be useful too but would be pointless on a harness. And no you don't want to be dragging him along the footpath but you dont want to be stopping for him either

Teach him a reliable leave it command -first at home then slowly add distractions until he is solid. Learn to read his body language and get in with an "ah, ah" or "leave it" before he becomes totally engrossed in the scent, then the second he switches his attention back to you praise, praise, praise!

Yep, raw roo tails do a great job of cleaning up the back teeth. Kei gets them a few times a week and his back teeth are pretty much spotless. He still gets a build up around the gum line of his canines though which needs brushing one every week or so to remove - and smells. Anyone have any suggestions on how to deal with that? I do wonder if it's because of his eating style? Regardless of what he gets he will gnaw at it from the side as opposed to tearing the meat of the bone

Dyson upright here too

What do you feed him? Dry food? If you still have some Interceptor to use up try crumbling it into a (moist) meal with a strong flavour - mince meat with sardines/liver, etc. Or even mixing it up with gravy or stock and pouring over dry food.

Try Priceless Pets; Interceptor Spectrum Tasty Chews ( 6 Doses) Large Dog 22.5 - 45 kg: $43.10 http://www.pricelesspets.com.au/products/i...ceptor-spectrum Sentinel Spectrum Tasty Chews (6 doses) Large Dog 22 - 45 kg: $78.70 http://www.pricelesspets.com.au/products/sentinel-spectrum ETA they are monthly doses.

Interceptor here too, once every 6 weeks and we've never had a problem with it.

Fair enough, but you would be surprised at how little room even bigger dogs can take up :D You can buy hammock type things that loop around the headrests between the back and front seats. Some zip back to a single seat size to allow for passengers and I'm sure I've seen a couple around the place (maybe Big W or online??) that have sides which box the dog into a single seat space. Something like that would cover the footwell giving the dog a reasonable amount of space and also section her off from the kids somewhat. Just a thought. This http://www.dinodirect.com/seat-cover-hammo...UD&AFFID=74 is what I was referring to.

Fair enough, but you would be surprised at how little room even bigger dogs can take up You can buy hammock type things that loop around the headrests between the back and front seats. Some zip back to a single seat size to allow for passengers and I'm sure I've seen a couple around the place (maybe Big W or online??) that have sides which box the dog into a single seat space. Something like that would cover the footwell giving the dog a reasonable amount of space and also section her off from the kids somewhat. Just a thought.

Ccrates are generally lighter, very smooth and easy to set up and collapse and have steel trays (as opposed to the plastic trays that other crates have). They are worth the extra $$ if you are planning on using it a lot and will last a long time. That said you may be better off with a soft crate for camping. Why can't she just be harnessed in the backseat with the two kids?

It depends on a lot of things - fat content of the meat you're feeding, how active the dog is, if the dog is overweight/underweight, etc. Unless she is underweight I'd be starting off at around 2-3% of her body weight and see how she goes. So say 600-700g per day including all training treats and snacks. If she starts losing weight then up it and if she gets porky cut it back.

Most runs can be dismantled and taqken with you when you move I'm pretty sure I have seen GPS trackers in Australia. Not sure where though? The concern for me would be that even though you can track her if she escapes you can't guarantee that she wouldn't be injured. Collars can come off too.

Perhaps.... I'd be more inclined to report it to the council as a health hazard Poor little dog though I'd seriously talk to them about rehoming it. I wonder if you could convince the other neighbour to let you set up a video camera and/or tape recorder on her side too. Even if you can't SEE the dog you'd still have evidence that it was barking, times, dates, etc.

After seeing the damage a destructo Beagle cross wreaked on my mums laundry in just 20 mins (ripped everything out of the cupboards, pissed on it all then ate the door frame ) I'd be very reluctant to leave a dog alone in that environment. A dog run is a much safer option. Or for short periods a crate (if the dog is crate trained)

Send your husband over there for another chat, perhaps ask if they'd consider rehoming the dog. In the meantime the video diary is very a good idea and can be presented to the council as proof if you need it. Perhaps even a security camera set up to record with times, dates, etc? Failing that I'd go out there with an airhorn everytime the dog barks and give them a taste of their own medicine

Chaining her is NOT a good idea. Make sure she's tired out (both mentally and physically) in the morning before you leave, then contain her in a dog run with toys/kongs/bones to keep her amused; http://dogmaster.com.au/shop/item/petsafe-...-kennel-run-329 http://www.barkcontrol.com.au/shop/dog-enc...CFQTSbgodv3oGAw

Are they in Australia Jessca? I own a Ridgeback, would love a Malinois (soon!) and will one day own another Kelpie :D