Red Fox

Where's the best place to buy these from?

Yeah call Steve, he'll talk your ear off I'd recommend K9 Pro too.

School oval. Generally pretty quiet outside of school hours, heaps of room, not many other dogs around and I can control the level of distraction (to a degree) depending on what time/day we go there and which area we choose. (ie, kids, sport, food, birds, etc).

Poor Daisy I hope you're okay too Huski.

Dstore.com is reasonable for your basic products. They have free postage on all pet supplies until Monday. But it all depends on what brand/product you want as to where will be the cheapest place to buy it from..

Toughen up. Speak up. If you feel that the way the vet treated your dog was unacceptable then it WAS. Say so. Would you let a doctor treat your child like that without saying anything? ...Perhaps it is the done thing? Didn't really hurt him? So what. It made you uncomfortable to the point where you cried and that should never happen. You've no reason to be loyal to this vet, you're paying for his service, it's not a favour. His treatment of your dog has obviously damaged your trust in him. Find a new vet and don't feel bad about it in the slightest.

If your dog doesn't have fleas then you're not getting rid of anything. Aloveen is nice, as is PAW Nutriderm. Better off to use a gentle shampoo than a harsh smelly one IMO. You can always give a spray of doggy cologne or use a scentled detangler to make her smell nice afterwards. PAW make a rose scented mist, Fuzzyard make a whole range of scented sprays too.

Try Melrose Omega Pet Oil instead, its a balanced blend of Omega 3, 6 and Vit A, D and E. http://www.melrosehealth.com.au/health_pro...e-Omegapet.aspx As for your diet I agree with PF - forget the tomato paste it's way too salty. I'd either give some BARF patty or raw mince/meat chunks and veg mix or a small RMB (chicken wing or neck, small piece of lamb flap, etc) or a couple of sardines with a little plain yogurt or cottage cheese and/or a raw egg. Balance over time, not all in one meal ACV is good for replacing lost electolytes, you can add it to water or meals. Probiotics are also good (IMO). However if you're already feeding dry in the morning there's no real need to complicate things by adding extra supplements all over the place. Your dogs don't need a huge amount of Vit E either.

Call the council, they will go and talk to the owner. If the owner doesn't comply they will fine them. If they do sieze the dog (unlikely) it may well be rehomed. If not being humanely PTS is better then being skittled by a bus.

Agree 100%. I don't buy into the fact that puppies need to meet other puppies. What they need is to learn how to interact appropriately around/be able to read other dogs. Something best learned from calm, stable, well mannered adult dogs. And as RSG has said, you are far better off with a dog that is able to ignore other dogs, ie has a neutral value for them, neither OTT positive nor negative. (The same applies to many other things in the dogs environment; kids, strangers, stairs, traffic, etc.) Do go to the puppy class this weekend but go on your own. Make sure you are 100% comfortable with the way things are run. If at any stage anything happens during your classes that you are NOT comfortable with, whether it be play with another puppy, or the way another owner (or even the instructor) is interacting with your pup, step in and stop it immediately. Don't be afraid to speak up. Early experiences -both good and bad- will affect your dog for the rest of his life. Hindsight is a wonderful thing

I know of several RR breeders who feed and recommend Nutrience. My own ridgie came to me on Nutrience Medium Breed puppy, his breeder recommended it over the large breed (due to protein/fat ratio I think?). We now feed 100% raw. eta, just looked back over your posts and realised that your Stevie is a half sister to my Kei

The size is fine for my Ridgie Not sure about the non drool bit (as he doesn't dribble much with water), but as it only lets a sip through at a time I think it would help. It's certainly non spill though and I doubt a dog would/could dig in it. Don't know about that, my CAT is the one that dribbles in this house where as Kei carefully licks his water up from the side of the bowl

Yep, one of these: Road Refresher http://www.roadrefresher.com/ Supposed to stop the slobber too! I bought mine from here http://www.sprout.net.au/road_refresher.html

Could be anything... If the eye seems red and irritated, weepy and/or the dog is bothered by it - vet. If it's just mucky eyes flush out with either saline, cammomile or calendula tea a few times per day and see if that helps, if not - vet. Probiotics can help too.

You want small, soft, smelly and easy for the dog to swallow Chicken chunkers/4Legs Roo sausage (no onion) small chunks of cooked (or raw) meat cheese hot dog cabinossi luncheon roll/black pudding dog roll bacon bits I don't like BBQ chook or anything that shreds too easily as I end up dropping it everywhere It's a good idea to have a treat pouch too - Erny sells awesome ones otherwise try Black Dog or even a cheap bumbag to get you started. It is NOT a good ide to put treats in your pocket, forget they are there and then put that jumper back in the cupboard when you get home only to pull it out a few days later and wonder why your dog suddenly lurves you so much

Puppy vaccs + one year booster. We will titer test when my dog is 4 years old (3 years from last booster) or earlier if needed for obedience etc, and then only re-vacc as needed. Titer testing at my local vet is $260! so I'm not going to do it just because. If for any reason I was unable to titer test then I'd have a booster done approx every 3-4 years, but nothing after the dog reaches 8-10 years of age. I did vaccinate my cat every year up until he was 5. After his last vacc in 2008 he was looking awful, coat was crap, vomitting constantly, comming up with abcesses, limping (we were told he needed FHR surgery). Vets were looking at PTS as it as one thing after another. I did some research, changed his food and stopped the vaccs. Within 6 months coat was comming good and vomitting had ceased, within 12 months the limping had stopped completely, 3 years on he's outrunning the dog. Co-incidence? maybe... but I wont be vaccinating him ever again.

Attention grabbing treats: Small pieces of raw roo meat soaked in sardine oil (chicken works ok too). Cooked, warm roo or chicken sausages. Cook in the microwave and then thinly slice. Chicken chunkers (warmed up). But to make a treat truely high value oyou need to work on the delivery. Make it exciting, have the dog chase it, throw your hands up and cheer when you release, keep the dog engaged. Even the most high value treat becomes pretty boring when you are standing there shovelling it into the dogs mouth and this is where you lose focus and they start to check out completely Another thing that may help to make the treats more valuable is to cut down on meals and feed that portion through training. ie, if you usually feed twice per day then cut out brekkie and instead feed the equivalent amount during training sessions (over the day) with a proper meal at the end of the day. Or you can just cut meals size in half. Either way make sure your dog is hungry when you train him! I also found with my own dog that if I chopped and changed between treats he'd simply pick and choose. So now we stick to one special treat only (4Legs chicken and pasta) that only comes out during training time. It's not the highest value treat to him taste wise but he associates it with training and fun - and time to work, which ups the value immensely. Occasionally I'll swap it for chicken chunkers (if I can't get 4Legs), he'll take the first one, munch away and then give me a funny look as if to say "no that's not it". Takes a few reps to convince him that it is Personally I like the 4Legs as it's pretty well balanced so no problem if it's 1/3 - 1/2 his food intake for the day

Have a read of these and also do a search here: http://ava.informz.net/ava/data/images/doc...inal-june09.pdf (this is the info Sandra was referring to) http://www.aahanet.org/PublicDocuments/Vac...es06Revised.pdf and also: http://www.whale.to/vaccine/driscoll1.html

K9 Pro has them for $5. That's the cheapest I've seen lately. http://www.k9pro.com.au/products/I%252dCli...or-Clicker.html

http://www.jewelledhound.com/

$71 for a C3 here in rural SA. Why do you "need" to vaccinate if you don't want to? Can you not titer test instead?

Because so many people have never seen a well bred SBT at the correct size, they've no idea what one looks like. In their mind it's way to small to be a "staffy", it's not brindle ....so therefore it must be a pug

Nothing too radical. Dobe, Vizsla, Weimaraner?? Most people just ask - and then usually tell me that their dog/friends dog/neighbours dog is obviously part Ridgeback too because it has a ridge when it's angry. Weirdest has to be the kid who yelled out to me "My dog is BIGGER than yours" errr okay great. Saw the kid again a few days later who again insisted (by way of yelling at the top of his voice) that his dog was MUCH bigger than mine and that it was a Dalmatian. Hmmmm, must be one very oversized Dally! The worst was the vet I took my dog to as a pup for his first check up. She looked at him and asked "So what breed is it?". Rather interesting question from a vet, for a pup that not only looked exactly like he should but has an obvious ridge?? Never saw that vet again ...Oh except the time I had to rush my cat in to emergency one night when she was the vet on duty. She asked me if I wanted my cat desexed - right AFTER she had finished examining an absess next to his already non existant testicles And according to my council I can either have a "Rhodesian" or a Ridgeback" - but not both

We have brown ticks in SA but not paralysis ticks. Likely it was one of these. They are dark, smaller than ticks and need to be plucked out.

Do you mean brands ie, Royal Canin vs Advance? Quality, premium vs supermarket? types, wet vs dry? Varieties, puppy vs large breed adult vs all life stages...? The best thing to feed a pup is a good quality nutritionally balanced diet, whether that be processed or raw