Red Fox

I *think* Billinghurst recommends feeding 2-4% of the dogs ideal body weight per day (adult dog on a raw diet). Someone else might be able to clarify that.. Yogurt - plain, natural yogurt with probiotics. (Though any other type won't hurt either)

Ok, but if you were starting out with charging the clicker -ie, had never used it before, not asking for or marking any particular behaviour and were simply charging with click>treat wouldn't it be the dogs natural response be to whip it's head around looking for the treat after a few reps? Just signalling that the lightbulb has gone off that click = treat? How do you first start off without charging? Do you ask for a particular behaviour and mark? Or work more by capturing or shaping behaviours?

Me too, but I can't get there either... In answer to your original question I do think it's important to charge the clicker when starting out, regardless of what the dog already knows. It is essentially a new marker and the dog needs to understand clearly what the click means for it to be effective. So a few short sessions of click>treat, click>treat. When the dog starts to instantly look for the treat after the click (ie, if his back is turned, you click and he immediately spins around to say "hey, where's my treat?" then I would move on to basic commands, then shaping new behaviours. If your dog is used to a marker word of some sort he should pick it up fairly quickly anyway I'm sure someone with more experience could explain the theory behind it better....

I replied in the other thread. Leerburg have some DVDs (though very expensive). They also have a Youtube channel http://www.youtube.com/user/leerburg and plenty of free info on their website. The info is out there. There are HEAPS of Youtube vids around - some very good and some absolute crap. The problem is that the new puppy buyer has no idea where to find this info and no idea in how to sort the good advice from the bullshit. That's the hard part. A pinned thread on DOL with some links to relaible and sensible info may be an idea? ETA, Another idea is a DOL produced print out that members could print off and pin up on their local noticeboards. Just basic info in poster format on the importance of buying from a registered breeder, how to find one, very basic tips in point form, obviously advertising DOL... There's no way you could cover anything in detail but you could point people to the source of the info.

Many remarks/posts on lack of crate training. Crate training is not the way to go for some people & we did actually used to manage puppies & raise them to civilised & toilet trained adult hood without a crate. The programme was poor in many respects but leaving the GSP in the bathroom was not so bad. Safer than loose in the house & some pups get crated in a very small area & their owners just sleep through & too bad for puppy. The concept that pups will not soil their own bed is not always true. The advice to leave puppy warm, safe & comfortable & ignore howling/crying was correct. All too easy to give in & take it into your own bed, me guilty of it sometimes too but its wrong really. Yes true. But some simple advice on crate training -even a brief mention- could have been valuable in a show like this. Bigdogg, Leerburg make some great DVDs. Unfortunately they are very expensive and the average puppy buyer would have no idea they even exist. It would be nice if we could get something like that available over here, there is certainly a market for it.

Haha not Pers, but I'd be inclined to think that a well dressed dog walking nicely at heel (and on leash!) sends a message of a proud owner and a well trained dog - who happens to like leather a lot I see waaayyyy too many bogans with "staffies", most of them on ropes, straining into check chain, or no leash at all cos "yeah she's right mate". I think I'd be quite happy to see a nice, well behaved stafford in practical leather

Nope, it's not you. The world is full of ignorant fools, even on a good day Though in a club environment the onus to educate new members on what is acceptable and what is not should be on the club IMO. From my own experience the class one instructor at my local club encouraged "socialisation between dogs" which was on the most part uncontrolled play - before class, during class, after class... so what do you think happens? New members think they are doing the right thing when they bound over for a "play" (because no-one mentioned DA, or that some members might not want another dog in their faces whilst they are trying to work) and dogs become more focussed on play time than work time... not a great combo. I'll never forget being screeched at by another member one night for allowing my puppy to approach her dog which was quietly laying by her side. I was new and only wanted to say hello... Jeez, I learnt my lesson, never did that again! Actually to be completely blunt I though she was a rude bitch at the time but now I can completely sympathise, she was 100% right.

I'll answer. I thought it was bullshit Poor puppy, on it's own, first night in a new house and it's not only seperated from it's pack but left alone to scream all night. Why not suggest a crate? Toilet training will be interesting... There were quite a few things that got on my nerves; No mention of crate training, no mention of reputable breeders, "designer dogs", pet shops with over priced crap (errr who buys a $300 dog bed? I'd rather spend it on a good quality crate and mat), no suggestion of letting the breeder help the family select the correct pup, blue Staffies... and I only watched the first bit. Luckily most normal people are out on a Friday night and it's only the crazy dog folk who stay home and watch telly well one can hope anyway.

Nope, I have one too. He has always been that way and I find it's worse in the hot weather. I've recently cut Kei down to one meal per day (from two) as he's getting a substantial amount through training (2 x per day, morning and evening equating to 200-300g all up) and that plus 2 meals per day was too much. However if I decide to skip a session for whatever reason I have to remember to give him a biscuit or he pukes. Any yep, it starts off with those horrendous tummy grumbles, progresses to mad grass eating then BLURK and he's fine again.

This may help: http://www.k9workinglines.com/main/informa...ail.php?infid=1 The Ian Billinghurst books are a good source of info when starting out too: http://www.drianbillinghurst.com/products.php?pid=2

I have one of those K9Pro ones for my girl and really like it, it is very soft. But, I'm pretty sure they don't come in purple! Oh they come in heaps of colours - black, black and BLACK I have one too. Love it :D You can have any colour you like... so long as it's black? Yep, and you can even get a leash to match ...in black Okay, time to stop railroading the thread now

I have one of those K9Pro ones for my girl and really like it, it is very soft. But, I'm pretty sure they don't come in purple! Oh they come in heaps of colours - black, black and BLACK I have one too. Love it

Cheap leather collars, the type you find at most supermarkets and pet supply stores are horrid. GOOD leather collars though are as soft as butter http://www.k9pro.com.au/categories/Dog-Col...lars-by-K9-Pro/ Black Dog make a nice plain apple green collar (or purple too if you're that way inclined). But in answer to your question, no I'd not put a purple patterened collar on a male dog. Personal preference I guess, the dog will wear whatever you make him.

I did this one and specifically said I wanted a long-haired coated dog with high grooming requirements and I got the xoloitzcuintli ... Ah yes, the long haired Xolo... As I said, not the ideal way to pick your breed but the selectors do throw up a few questions, considerations and breeds that people may not have thought of.

I'd go the best quality dry food that you can afford (Black Hawk is sounding good) and bulk it up with the following; *Vegies and table scraps. It's a good way to clear out the fridge and get rid of left over fruit and veg. Left over rice, pasta, etc. *RMB's - IGA always have something on special. Things I've picked up there of late: Chicken wings $4.99 for 1.5kg pack (clearance), free range chicken drumsticks $3 per pack (approx 600-700g - on clearance), whole free range chicken 1.5kg for $6 (clearance), lamb leg 1.5kg @ $9 per kilo (on special), lamb shanks 1.2kg for approx $7, chicken frames @ $3 per kilo, beef bolar roast roast @ $6 per kilo (on special), big bags of raw lamb bones for $5 each (shopping bag size full). They also do beef mince occasionally for $6 per kilo among other things. Each of those would do a couple of meals. If you can find a pet meat supplier they are usually pretty cheap. We have one that does roo meat and bones at $3 per kilo (though it does help if you can buy in bulk and freeze). Leonards do cheap pet mince and frames too ($1.50-$3 per kilo). *Sardines. Woolies/Safeway do a 3 pack Homebrand really cheap ($1.50 I think). Canned mackeral is 99c too. *Eggs, yogurt. You could easily do dry with a couple of chicken necks one meal, rest of the chicken necks next meal, lamb flaps with veggie scraps, dry with remainder of lamb bones, dry with an egg, a can of mackeral and some left over rice from your meal, chicken frames, dry with a dollop of yogurt.... Hope that helps

Sounds like a normal puppy Keep her on the flat collar, or if you think she can slip it perhaps try a martingale or limited slip collar instead. Teach her to focus on you/walk on a loose leash away from the group, move at your dogs pace (not everybody elses) and join only when your dog is ready. It might take some time... Don;t allow your dog to socialise/play with other dogs before or during class time. Class is for work - play comes later. If she is tired or bored give her a break. ^^Some intstructors may not like that, however do what's best for your dog. One of the biggest mistakes I made with my own dog as a puppy was forcing him into a class when he wasn't ready because I thought I was "doing the right thing". For some dog a class environment is just way too much excitement. Start in a low distraction area and work up rather than throwing her in the deep end. It's worth it. Your puppy won't learn anything whlie she's straining at the end of her leash too worked up to concentrate. Forget about a harness, it won't help and will only encourage the puling. Don't bother with a halti or no pull/front attaching harness either, particularly if you are wanting to move up through the classes and eventually work off leash.

Errrr yeah, either fence it off or pen the dog so he can't get to it. Same for the clothesline. Pick up the kids toys and shoes and put them away out of the dogs reach. As has already been said, they have what they've trained -or not trained. The dog needs more mental and physical stimulation by the sounds of it, if they can't give him that then rehoming shouldn't be out of the question...

I have one of these too They stay full/cool for a couple of days before you need to resoak. Once the outside material dries (takes about 10 mins out in the sun, less if you blot off the excess with a towel first) the dog will not get wet. You can chuck a towel over the top if it concens you anyway. Embarrassingly enough the dog never really uses it, the humans do http://www.k9softdogcrates.com.au/index.php?p=polar http://shop.ebay.com.au/aussiepetstuff/m.html

Try some of the online breed selectors. Not the ideal way to choose a breed but they will give you some ideas. http://animal.discovery.com/breedselector/dogselector.do http://www.selectsmart.com/dog/ http://www.purina.com.au/BreedSelector/Dog...campaign=Purina http://www.petnet.com.au/selectapet/choose-a-pet *plenty more if you Google "dog breed selector".

Personally I would like to see the more common (dog sport) languages approved for ANKC. ie; English, German, French, Dutch. There are not that many commands, they are all fairly simple, not like a judge would have to be fluent in German to be able to understand German commands for example... Though in reality it would probably be more trouble than it's worth. As far as being able to repeat a command simply because you are using a foreign language, I don't see how Regardless of which word or language you use you only get to give the command once. One word = one sound, therefore repetition of any sound, language or word should be obvious due to the pause between repetitions.

If she looks anything like the pic that PF posted I wouldn't be in a rush to get weight on her. I also wouldn't be in a rush to change her diet until she has settled in. If you don't know much about raw feeding do your research on it first too - the Ian Billinghurst books are a good starting point: http://www.drianbillinghurst.com/products.php?pid=2 Just a question though. If you were so digusted by her condition, she was wobbly on her feet and the breeders story seemed dodgy (ie, she was at a mates place for 4 weeks) then why did you take her in the first place :D Aren't you getting a new pup in a few weeks anyway? Just curious...

Just my 2 cents worth and others may not agree but.... Firstly - Get your dog OFF the halti. If he is pulling into it or you are pulling on it then there's a very real chance of doing some spinal damage. Secondly - you have had this dog for 4 or 5 days. If it was me I'd be working on establishing some pack structure, bonding with the dog and basic training at home. There's plently of time for dog parks and walks later on down the track. The dog is in a new home, everything has been turned upside down for him and he needs time to settle in and get used to things. He may or may not be DA, you really need to get someone more knowledgable in to assess him (a good trainer or behaviourist - definitely give Steve Courtney/K9 Pro a call). Thirdly - This dog could be a lot of work. If he is indeed DA and/or undersocialised he will cost you a lot of time and possibly a lot of money to retrain and manage. If you're not willing to take that on then return him. Owning a dog with "problems" is not fun... Re pulling on the leash, well most (if not all) dogs can be trained out of that if you're willing to put in the work so that's not the end of the world I also wouldn't be taking a dog that is reactive to an obedience club at this stage, it may be way too much for him to cope with. I may also get flamed for saying this but I'm going to say it anyway, in the nicest possible way: Keep your dog out of the dog park and on a good strong leash. I can tell you now that if a dog of any size broke it's leash and came barrelling towards mine acting aggressively I'd have no problem putting the boot in and potentially breaking a rib or two. Sorry, but my loyalties lie with MY dog and there will be many other owners who will feel the same. There's also the issue of a potential dog fight. Not nice for anyone Taking your dog to a dog park right now is simply asking for trouble. Some links that might help you if you decide to keep this dog; Leerburg, free e-book on establishing pack structure with an adult dog: http://leerburg.com/pdf/packstructure.pdf Good strong leather leashes: http://www.k9pro.com.au/categories/Leashes...er-Leash-Range/ Your dog wont be able to break one of these, they are worth their weight in gold. Keep in mind too that the clip is probably the weakest part of most leashes so don't presume that your dog wont be able to break a chain leash. Have a read of this article too, Leash breakage; http://www.k9pro.com.au/pages.php?pageid=87 Collars: http://www.k9pro.com.au/categories/Dog-Collars/ You might also find this interesting; http://www.k9pro.com.au/pages.php?pageid=31 (Steve's article on head collars). Hope that helps. *EFS

What about a Curly Coated Retriever? http://www.dogzonline.com.au/breeds/inform...d-retriever.asp

Wow, what an awesome book. Lovely photo's too. Thanks for sharing KTB ...and then there are those mad people who will happily go without any of the above to buy more dog gear :D Dju, that's a great site. I just found the a book I've been after for a while ...at $100 under retail!

I normally just point to it and that's enough but Kei's cue is "hop on" for front feet, "up" for all 4 or "step" for back feet (I started teaching back feet on an actual step, hence the cue - not very original!).