Red Fox

How long do you want? 33ft/10m lines: http://www.k9pro.com.au/products/Premium-L...ng-line%29.html http://www.k9pro.com.au/products/Standard-...ng-Line%29.html 11m line: http://www.vetnpetdirect.com.au/BDTRKL 15ft/5m lines: http://www.k9pro.com.au/products/Premium-L...-x-16mm%29.html http://www.k9pro.com.au/products/Standard-...-x-25mm%29.html http://www.vetnpetdirect.com.au/BDLL (Both these places express post so you can have it by the following day) Otherwise Black Dog can custom make one to any size you like: http://www.blackdog.net.au/index.php

There's a thread about long lines in the training forum: http://www.dolforums.com.au/index.php?showtopic=207778

I like these: http://www.k9pro.com.au/products/Premium-L...-x-16mm%29.html A little pricey but worth every cent. Erny's look good too. The BlackDog lines are okay but I found that mine would soak up water, ending up heavy and smelly, and collect a lot of grass. Horse lunge lines (or any cotton line really) will likely do the same. Don't skimp on equipment - especially leashes. A good quality long line is going to give you a lifetime of use and provide safety for both you and your dog.

Psyllium husk can help too. Soak around 2 level teaspoons in a third of a cup of warm water and add it to his meal each night. I find it helps runny poos kind of bulk up 'stick' together and also helps with constipation

I'm currently using 4Legs as a training treat equating to around 40% of my dogs daily food intake (so one meal out of two each day is 4Legs fed throughout several training sessions). We go through around one pack every 3 days. Before that I was using Chicken Chunkers but not really happy with the (small amounts of) salt/preservatives in there so switched. The 4Legs packet says it's a complete diet for the dog, no added preservatives, colours, flavours, salt, sugar, etc. It is cooked so probably not the most "best" or "most nutritious" food to feed alone, but fed combined with some RMB's, fresh meat, veg, BARF, premium dry food or whatever else you feed I don't think it's all that bad. Probably comparable to the better (preservative free) dog rolls and certainly better than cheap supermarket dry/canned.

They sure are! http://www.prok9.com.au/index.php?option=c...4&Itemid=91 It looks like these use the same hinged opening/closing mechanism as the Black Dog ones that everyone is having trouble with. What makes these better, is it better hinges Same style, better quality

I have both. The Barf Diet is pretty simplistic. It gives you a basic run down of BARF, ratios and the recipes for BARF patties (for dogs and for cats). Its only a short book. Give Your Dog A Bone is much more detailed, talks about what you can feed, how to balance the diet over time (as opposed to feeding an all in one type patty), supplements that you can give, etc. If you are only wanting to buy one book I'd recommend Give Your Dog A Bone, you'll get more out of it. You can buy them direct from here http://www.drianbillinghurst.com/products.php?pid=2

Also sounds like a great way to hurt your dog and do some lasting damage.. Taken directly from the page linked. I'm afraid I'm with Bisart Dobes on this one; if you have to literally hang the dog until it passes out (just to prove to the dog what a clever, big person you are ) in my opinion, you probably shouldn't have pets. Yes, it does say that - right down the bottom of the page AFTER stating: Dog owners with aggression problems need to determine if their dogs need a correction, or if they need to have their environment controlled, or if they simply need to redirected their dog away from the situation that triggers the aggression. The fact is simply avoiding certain circumstances often solves a problem. If your dog is aggressive at the door, put the dog in a dog crate when company comes. If your dog is aggressive at certain dogs on your block, don't walk your dog by that house again. But if you determine that your dog does need a correction you must first determine what level of correction to administer. Putting a dominant dog collar dogs with a softer temperament and simply applying upward pressure with the leash (to take all slack out of the collar) is often enough to stop a dogs unwanted aggression. They quickly learn that you have complete control over them. With more aggressive dogs ( on which other methods have failed) the handler should lift the dogs front feet off the ground for a few seconds until the dog settles down from his aggressive rage (see photo to left). This also tells the dog that you will not tolerate his behavior. Most aggressive dogs only need to have their front feet lifted off the ground a few times to realize that you can take their air away when you want. This is not painful for the dog. The paragraph that you have quoted above is under the title: Extremely Handler Aggressive Dogs: and goes on to state; The vast majority of people cannot deal with truly handler aggressive dog. These are dogs that truly want to attack their owner with the intent of challenging the owner for rank within their family pack. I can tell you what I do but I will insert a word of caution by saying that you should not try this at home unless you are working with a professional dog trainer who understands safety in this work. I also don't do this on a dog that has not spent weeks going through my pack structure program. From what I can understand that method is intended as a last resort for extremely handler aggressive dogs. Not saying that I agree with hanging a dog until it passes out, just that you have taken it out of context.

I disagree. For some dogs a pinch/prong correction is only going to ramp them up more. A DD collar used properly is a perfectly viable option for these dogs. (Keeping in mind that we are not talking about your average pet dog here). This argument has been done to death in the training forum, no need to do it again here. This^ I agree with 100%

There is a very good description on how they are used (including pics) on the Leerburg site http://leerburg.com/746.htm

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This sounds exactly like Kei how did you work through that problem?

How young can you start using prong collar with a Dogue de Bordeaux? I have seen a lot of DDBs with a check collar but the prong collar may be gentler and more effective with instructions and fitting ...? If you dont think your pup needs a prong but still want an effective training collar perhaps try a martingale http://www.k9pro.com.au/categories/Martingale-Collars/

Interesting. So if I feed my dog a lot of raw roo meat (but not offal) is he still at risk of hydatids? Only offal I feed is chicken liver (and dried liver treats), he is wormed every 6 weeks with Interceptor.

I had a BlackDog one and also had trouble with it. I replaced it with one of these http://www.prok9.com.au/index.php?option=c...4&Itemid=91 a few months ago and love it. Perfect size and the hinges are really smooth

Huh? Of course papers mean something. Puppy buyers need to do their research..

no. BYB= A breeder who is not registered with the ANKC (or a working registery). Registered breeder= A breeder who is registered with the ANKC. (Has a breeders prefix). In the case of both of the above the breeder may or may not show their dogs, may or may not health test, may or may not provide ongoing support to puppy buyers, may or may not care where the pups end up. In the case of BYB the pups cannot be registered (even if the parents are) as the breeder is not registered. In the case of BYBs pups may or may not be pure bred. Ethical registered breeder= Registered with the ANKC. Health tests, often has show (CH, Gr CH, etc) titles on their dogs or working titles (CDX, UD, ADX, etc), puts a lot of research into breeding and matings, choses homes carefully, provides breeder support..... etc. (The vast majority of registered breeders would fall into this catergory).

:D Man people are dumb!

There are certain times/places when I dont allow it - two doors down from our house on our way home, in front of the outdoor dining area of the local hotel at lunch time, tiny nature strip in the middle of a busy road... in those cases he can wait a few minutes longer until we can reach a more appropriate area. Not hard to stop, just say "no" when I see the change in his posture that signals he wants to go and keep walking, then when we reach a place where he can go I stop and let him I carry bags so 99% of the time he goes when he needs to and I just pick it up. Wouldn't make him hold on for long unless absolutely necessary, it must be uncomfortable.

Welsh Terrier?

Not in the Oct journal - only Amstaffs, but now I'm going to go look back through a few back issues... Sonia Yikes, another 7 litters, same breeder, in the July Journal. 34 more puppies. All Amstaffs, all born in Dec/Jan/Feb... plus another breeder, different kennel name with two parent that have the first breeder's kennel name... Sonia ETA - Every journal I have opened so far has puppies bred by this one breeder, and I'm talking multiple litters per month. You're not on about a certain 'Greek' breeder are you, he must have 50 dogs on his yard. Hopefully the good breeders wil keep these dogs out of their breeding programs. I was thinking the same thing, and I can tell you that this "breeder" is producing "pedigree" puppies in other peoples yards too.. :D

LOVE it ..some more on the Doors/Love theme Love Her Madly Hello I Love You Love Hides Love Street My Wild Love Who Do You Love http://www.whosdatedwho.com/music/songs/the-doors.htm

I prefer Inner Health Plus (Dairy Free), it's powder form, no taste, you just sprinkle it over the top of the food.

It's good for the dogs but they often turn their noses up at even a splash of it in their water (well mine did anyway). Mine will too so I mix it into his evening meal instead (around 30ml per night).

Don't agree with any of this. 1) My dog is on an all natural, raw diet. The mozzies still love him. I'm not sure if there is heartworm in Tas? There certainly is in SA. 2) An unwormed dog with worms won't develop the ability to deal with it, they will just end up ill. Though I see nothing wrong with worming only when needed in older pups/dogs. 3) Disagree, though I am against over-vaccinating I think puppies should be vaccinated with a C3 at least twice. 4) Tell that to those here who have lost puppies to Parvo! Unless the pup has received their vaccs they are NOT safe (and even that's not a guarantee). No vaccs? - yes, but it would be on the condition that puppy was vaccinated at 8-10 weeks by my own vet. No worming? No. No flea treatment? Yes (proving pups did not have fleas!) Yes No, I would want to give puppy vaccs and first booster (then titer ther-after) yes