Red Fox

I doubt they would simply seize the dog and pts Unless he was found wandering, impounded and not collected or there was overwhelming evidence of neglect or abuse, the council has no reason or right to do this. The owner will probably get a talking to - if that.

I agree, call the council on Monday. If anything they might give the owner a talking to about letting the dog wander. And yes some people never get it.

I think the Top Buy people owe Secretkei a free crate or something similar. Without this thread, they'd still have a warehouse full. :D Nah, I have enough crates and not enough dogs to fill them. Hmmm a new sheet set would be nice though Got my eye on the new K9+ Caprice if/when dog no 2 finally comes along too badbadbad!

From the DOL breed pages:

This is the case for belgians. Only one size, I admit, but four coat types. From what I understand some countries let the varieties interbreed freely, some not at all, & some only with special permission. Especially in the countries where you can interbreed, you apparently do get malinois popping up in tervuerens litters, tervuerens popping up in groenendael litters, as well as strange combinations like black malinois & laekenois. True, and the same with some other breeds (hairless and powderpuff chinese crested dogs for example) but the variation in litters not to the extreme of the labradoodle IMO. And with belgians being a working breed I'd think that given the right circumstances, interbreeding is acceptable? (as in you're breeding for working ability of the dogs rather than looks) - plus you're not going to get 3 standard Tervuerens, 2 medium Malinois and 3 mini groenendael in a Belgian litter Some of the litters listed on the ALA site have for example: COAT TYPES :: Fleece and Wool SIZE :: Miniature to Medium while others have size listed as standard/large or miniature/large miniature along with one or two types of coats, along with mulitudes of different colours and patterns. It seems like a lot of variation..

Try Ruthless

There are 6 parent breeds that make up the "Australian Labradoodle" according to their webpage info. http://www.laa.org.au/ala-breeder/parentbreeds.htm They also have their own registry, standard and COE. Given this info they do seem to be legit and there is obviously much more to a "registered ALA breeder" than there is to a BYB F1 poodle x lab and no doubt you can buy a "multigeneration labradoodle" through this organisation. But the standard also has 3 accepted sizes and 2 accepted coat types. Different sizes and coat types can be born into the same litter (and no doubt there are still other coat types appearing in those litters that dont meet the written standard). http://www.laa.org.au/ala-breeder/standard.html If they are unable to produce a reasonably uniform litter (as in at least all of the same size) one would think that they are still reasonably far away from recognition? It probably doesn't help that there are so many BYBs cashing in on the trend either and the public belief that a "labradoodle" is simply a lab x poodle, when it appears that it is not.

K9 Pro has 30% off their standard leather leashes at the moment and have the plaited ones too

Well that was why I bought one - so I didn't have to lug the huge wire crate from room to room - but I ended up with a soft crate larger than the huge wire crate! I solved that problem by having a crate in every room wire crate in the kitchen/family/dining area, another in the lounge room, my K9+ crate in the bedroom and now the new topbuy one for anywhere else we go ;)

Whole fish such as whatever you can buy and whatever is a sensible price for you Yep - bones and all. Personally if I had a dog with issues I'd use a white fish rather than an oily one but as you boy's fine with canned sardines (isn't he?) that shouldn't be a worry. Anything raw (so not smoked fish) is fine. Mine don't like salmon heads (too many eyes mummy ) but many do. Egg - raw and the whole thing including the shell. Stick the dog outside and hand him the egg - great entertainment for people and dog. Can't help with the sweet potato/pumpkin, I don't use it - but I'd say at a guess cooked and mashed would help fill the gap (which is all it's for) Entire raw egg including shell What is it that is so good for them in an egg? Protein and other goodies (sorry, not too technical ) in the yolk/white and calcium in the shell. Feeding the whole keeps it balanced. You can try scrambled eggs occasionally too - most dogs really like that. My dog wont eat a whole egg 'as is' so I tend to bend it up in the rocket blender shell and all then mix it in with his meal. Re the sweet potato/pumpkin, cooked and mashed is fine, raw and pureed is better. Raw will provide more 'roughage' in the diet and the dog will get more out of it but cooked may be easier on the gut. As you're only really feeding it as a filler and not a main source of nutrients it shouldn't really matter too much to begin with.

That's very expensive. I made my own out of an old lead, cut it to size & put a knot in the end. Yes, they are a little pricey, but the leash in the link actually has rubber impregnated through the middle making it very easy to grab during training and also has a high quality brass clip, hence the higher price. Anyhoo, I was just using it as an example to show what I mean The idea of cutting down an old leash (possibly one thats already been chewed) is a great idea though *sp

Or she has been brought up in a culture that doesn't care for dogs. Now, keeping in mind that I am not defending her actions as right in any way, but; Not all countries/cultures see animals (dogs) in the same way as the western world, and there are plenty of people out there who would think that to be a perfectly acceptable way of "disposing of" an unwanted litter. Just as some people in our culture would think it okay to drown a rat, or to poison one with ratsack so that they die a horrible painful death. Because it's just a rat right? Hmmmm not to those who keep them as pets.. Of course it's wrong and barbaric, but there is a good possibility that the girl is not doing it for the pleasure of it, but simply because she has been raised to think this is "normal".

Bananas are fine for dogs

Roo bones (meat on for preference) and whole fish if you've decided to go with the roo & fish. The thing is dogs can't break down the cell walls in vege so unless it's crushed for them they can get very little out of it, which is why people say pureed. I know some vege cell walls break down when cooked but I couldn't even begin to figure out which ones. Basically 2% of his body weight per day is about the right amount of food and it doesn't have to include any starches/carbs if you don't want it to. Personally I'd ditch the pasta/rice/grains immediately and if you really want to "bulk up" his meals - not that a roo tail needs all that much bulking - then give him sweet potato or pumpkin but you just never know, it could be the vege causing the problem if it's not a new thing to him. Give him bones of a type that he can consume completely so this all depends on the dog. Yep, what Sandra said Try roo tail or roo spine bones and (if your dog will eat it) whole fish. If you need to feed canned fish then sardines and mackeral are your best bet. Roo is pretty lean so you can get away with feeding a bit more than some other meats. If this were my dog I would try something along the lines of; roo tail or whole fish for breakfast (around 40-50% of daily allowance), then for dinner roo meat or fish (40% of daily allowance) with pureed raw veg (approx 10-20% of daily allowance) -say pumpkin/sweet potato mix to start with, then perhaps add a bit of greens as you go, one thing at a time. If he was acting like he was starving I'd up the veg so that he feels a bit fuller. I'd then look at adding things like natural yogurt and perhaps some omega oil after a few weeks to see if he tollerates them, maybe some offal or eggs too (again- one at a time and slowly). Then if that's all good start with other meats -one week at a time- to work out where your issue is. Just my 2 cents worth.

Just a though. If she chews through a leash then what about hanging one next to the front door. That way when she carries on you can simply grab the leash and clip it on. The other option is a pull tab type leash (only a very short grab leash). On a big dog you can just leave it on and it's usually too short for them to get hold of and chew, but easy for you to grab hold of when you need to eta: Here http://www.k9pro.com.au/products.php?produ...d-3%7B47%7D8%22

I wouldn't give rice or pasta on an elimination diet. Grains themselves could be the cause of his itchiness. And I could be wrong (I've never done one) but isn't the idea to introduce a novel protein source for a period of time (at least a week or two) then to add in one new thing at a time (slowly) to work at what is causing the problem? I would think that if you've only been feeding it for 5 days that you should only be feeding ONE protein source -ie roo + perhaps 1 bland filler -ie sweet potato or pumpkin. Why do you feel that you need to bulk up the diet at all though Is your dog over-weight or used to having larger meals than what you are feeding? If his weight is good and the meal sizes are okay then I'd simply be feeding meat and bones for now (single protein source if it's an elimination diet) and perhaps adding a small amount of pureed veg if needed for fibre (starting with only one or two types of veg at the most for now, you can increase the variety later on if you need to/want to)

The easiest and most reliable way is just to manage it. Is your dog crate trained? Will she go in on command? My dog will go off his nut if anyone comes to the door, but I don't see this as a bad thing. If it's someone I'm going to let in (like a visitor) he gets his "in your crate" command. He goes in, I close the crate, he settles quietly, then I open the front door. Takes all of about 10 seconds and everyone is happy If it's someone I'm NOT going to let in -like religious doomsday people wanting to lecture me on the evils of the earth- he does not go in the crate. I open the big wooden door and let him carry on though the (locked) screen door whilst they make a hasty retreat ...I'm a baaaad owner sometimes

Because the thread was started with the intention of passing on to someone planning on breeding their BYB dog with a papered bitch to make money and who believes that there is "no cost involved". Many of the breeders who posted were already aware of the circumstances and therefore probably accentuated a bit on the doom and gloom and what can and does go wrong

Or would think "Jeez, that Dobe has a funny bark??"

You could always get both then sell the steel one later on when your dog is past the puppy stage. If you sign up for the newsletter they will email you with voucher codes too ($10 off a purchase over $100 I think??) so make sure you do that before you purchase

Because no-one in their right mind is going to pay $800+ for a BYB "purebred" dog when they can pay the same amount and get a papered dog, with health tested parents from a registered breeder for the same price Presuming she was a BYB and that people looking for a purebreed often go through breed clubs, word of mouth or visit shows than she would have had to do all her own advertising to sell the pups. Not always easy and not cheap either when the pups don't sell. Cross breeds cater to a different market. People looking for a DD aren't going to go through a breed club or the ANKC, they are going to look in the paper, on the internet, in pet shops... They aren't going to ask informed questions such as -have the parents been health tested and what are the results, or are the puppies registered. They are going to be given the answers they want to hear instead like "Of COURSE these dogs wont shed" and "Yes, they are so much HEALTHIER than purebreeds" or "Yes, they are healthy, never had a problem" or "No, you don't have to groom or train them - they are the PERFECT mix of both breeds" So, for that type of "breeder" selling the *perfect* cross breed for the bargain price of only $200 through the paper? Of course it's going to be easier

Yep a Lab in full flight barrelling towards you at a very fast speed is not for the faint hearted :D Okay, I can't disagree with you there

Personally I'd put myself and my dog first and move house. If not, contact a behaviourist and get some proper advice (not internet advice) on how to establish leadership with this dog. In the meantime: Keep the dogs seperate - Seperate bowls, feeding areas, beds, toys. If you can keep your housemates dog in a seperate yard if not, yours inside his out. I wouldn't be game on forcing a dog you don't know and doesn't respect you into a crate if he's not crate trained either. Don't stare at him, growl at him or intimidate him in any way. It won't help, will probably make it all worse. Ignore the dog. No fussing, no attention. Feed him and leave him alone. Yes, he probably needs attention and excercise - but NOW is not the time to try it.

All the breeds I put under "happy medium" are going to need a reasonable if not substancial amount of training and excercise and require a fair amount of effort. But yep, I agree with you - some Labs can have a LOT of energy. Same goes for every other breed - though they are perhaps a little more managable than say a Dobe or a Vizsla perhaps

I tend to disagree, it really depends on the dog and how you look at it. A 30 minute run coupled with 3+ short (but high intensity) training sessions throughout the day would be fine for some breeds - even the higher energy types. But yep, a 30 min plod around the block and a general obedience lesson or 2 wouldn't cut it. Yesterday my Ridgie got 3 short basic training sessions and 2 short (as in around the block type) walks. He was crated for the rest of the day (and slept the whole time This, for him, was fine. Would I be game to try that with a working line Malinois though - not a snowballs chance in hell :D