Red Fox

We've just purchased a 2nd hand wagon (Ford 94 Futura) and so have the option of putting Kei in the back now rather than the usual fur covered back seats I'm just wondering what the best option are? So far ideas are: Cargo barrier, boot liner and harness (secured to the child safety bolt thingo) - easy to clean, easy to set up, relatively cheap ...but I can see me using the backseat most if the time if he's in a harness simply because it easy Custom built crate - this is my preferred option but not sure on price or how I would go about it. Can you buy these ready made and just fit them in? Wire crate anchored down somehow - plenty of room for it but not sure how I would secure it down? Back seat hammock covers are a no go since there are no head-rests in the back. (same problem I had with the last car and the reason why the back seat is filthy) I prefer him in either a crate or a harness, not keen on just putting up a barrier and having him loose in the back.

convenience, price, availability. My dog gets plenty of bones. Around 50% of his daily diet consists of raw meaty bones, but I find he does better when also given a portion of muscle meat on top of this (among other things). Mince fills this gap. Occasionally I will buy a big slab of beef or lamb as a alternative, or a whole small chicken - but at an average of $8-$16 per kilo those things are simply way too expensive to feed to a large dog on a daily basis. I can buy roo mince in bulk or $3 per kilo. I can (and do) buy roo chunks from the same supplier when available.

Canine spirit have Ruffwear hi-viz coats on sale atm http://www.caninespirit.com.au/master_products/track-jacket

Guilty as charged officer (the bolded bit) and unfortunately some of us are born "coordinationally challenged" and it's not something that is easy to change. Doesn't mean I don't like to play tug with my dog though. Hell I am never going to be an expert, my dog doesn't target my hands, but he is faster than me, and occassionally i get a nip, does that mean I should never be playing tug because I am not good enough and am unlikely to ever be??? Seems kind of elitist. X 2 x3 I'm another one who will be lining up for a pair. Having been nipped a few times for no other reason then that I lack co-ordination I've developed some pretty bad habits when delivering the reward to my dog, which doesn't help either of us. Gloves wont fix my co-ordination problem but what they might do is help me to break my bad habits quicker and get back on track. ...and if they dont? Well at least they'll keep my hands warm during a morning training session!

Glad I'm not the only one who thinks so. Kids and dogs are worlds apart. Anyone who thinks otherwise is living in la-la-land.

Definitely not! I got a dog because I wanted a DOG. If there was a hole to fill it certainly wasn't a maternal one. Actually I can't think of anything worse than having a baby, can't stand them! ....another dog though? For sure

Or you could stick a DOL sticker over the top :D

How did Elbies vet visit go? ;)

Genuine question: If an owner rings the pound looking for a lost dog do the pound keep any kind of record of that call in case the dog turns up at a later date or does the owner have to ring continuously to check if the dog has been handed in? Is there the option of the "finder" calling and notifying all pounds in the region giving their details (even emailing a pic to them) and holding the dog for the period of time which it would otherwise spend in the pound? As far as I was aware the holding period is 72 hours after which the dog may be "disposed of" if it is not claimed by the owner. It is certainly the case where I live, does this differ in QLD? eta, Scarlets post answers my last 2 questions

Agree with the others. Take everything that you DONT want him to destroy and give him something alternate to do. You could try an Aussie Dog home alone toy http://aussiedog.com.au/index.php?main_pag...x&cPath=1_7 Or even make your own by buying a couple of metres of thick elastic cord from the hardware store, run one end through a treat ball or Kong type toy, knot underneath to secure it, attach a tug or old rag underneath that to pull on and tie the other end to a clotheline or tree. Will keep him busy for hours You need to excercise him regardless of the weather too. If it's wet and muddy buy a raincoat. He wont mind

Nah, thats just a Ridgie thing. You know what happens when you let them into the bed too right? *Shudders and glances to the left at sleeping, PJ wearing, Ridgie currently taking up most of the covers*

Do you have a crate? Rather than just teaching her to get off the couch on command you may also want to try teaching her to go to her crate on command. Solves a lot of problems and is a fail safe option for keeping her safe and out of the way when you are eating, when visitors come, etc. You could otherwise try teaching her to go to a mat/bed on command. A little harder (as she will have to stay there on her own accord) but do-able. I think it makes it a lot easier for the dog if they have somewhere to go rather than just a vague "get down". It's going to be confusing for her if she is allowed up most times then all of a sudden she's not, but a "mat" or "crate" command is pretty clear and lets her know where she is supposed to be instead

This. Responsible dog owners can manage entire male dogs.. even several of them. My primary concern with entire males is the risk of theft. Yep, true on boths counts. But I do think that it's pretty sad when the primary reason for desexing a male dog comes down to the choice between protecting his safety and wellbeing over and above what is on his best interests health wise, but it's definitely something worth considering.

I wouldn't desex him before 18 months - if at all. I might get flamed for saying so but I see no reason to desex a healthy male dog, in a single dog household, if you are willing to put in the time and effort to be a responsible owner. (ie consistant training, setting ground rules, good leadership skills, etc) Really things you should be doing whether your dog is entire or not

My brothers dog sometimes get very red bloodshot eyes. I think they have narrowed it down to dry eyes after being in the car... If it were my dog I'd be checking for things like distichiasis (extra eyelashes inside the rim of the eye), you will need a good vet or eye specialist to check for this in most cases, or allergies (grass perhaps?) to start with. A little OT but have you done much research on the heartworm vacc? I know it's a personal choice and many people do use this, but be aware that there have been some adverse reactions to it and that it was withdrawn from the market in the US. If you do a search in the health forum there should be a fair amount of threads on the subject eta, forgot to add that Elbie is gorgeous He reminds me very much of my old dog Gypsy who was a Kelpie x BC

I'd also be interested to know how this works. If a dog cannot be registrered (because of it's colour) and cannot be sold unregistered (by a registered breeder following ANKC guidelines) then what becomes of a perfectly healthy puppy who just happens to be the wrong colour? Does the breeder only have the option of cull or keep? Or would they offer the pup for free to a suitable owner who was already on their puppy waiting list? Surely they wouldn't advertise the puppy for free? In which states does this apply? I am sure that I have heard of white boxers on the limited register before, and I have certainly heard of white boxers being sold at a reduced price by reputable breeders

Would you try the same test with a head-collar on your face? No. But I wouldn't put one on my thigh then claim I had some understanding of the dog's perception either. And if someone told me they did this, or that they ran their dog alongside their bike on one, I would respond similarly. Aidan, I'd be quite willing to put one around my own neck and have someone else pop it if that makes you feel better I understand what you are saying, but the point people are trying to make re putting the prong collar around their thigh/arm and popping it is that it's not a particularly painful or harsh sensation (as someone who has never seen/used a prong collar may believe it to be). The way in which the dog percieves the correction is dependent on a lot of other factors IMO, not just force. :D

Yeah that sucks We cop it fairly often too, normally with the owner calling out "oh he/she is friendly" without a care in the world. Well I don't particularly care if their dog is friendly, nor do I want it to approach me or my dog without invitation. Apart from being dangerous it's just plain rude! As an owner of a large dog it can often be entertaining to yell out "My dog is NOT friendly!" with a panicked look on your face and watch Fluffy's owner sh*t themself as they fly like Superman trying to catch their dog ;) Sure it doesn't fix the problem entirely but they'll more often than not give you a very W I D E berth if they ever see you again

;) Me either.

ditto You could always give them a call and ask...

Not necessarily. I was pretty much told to put my dog (4 month old puppy at the time) in a head collar by an instructor during our first class. I do think a lot of clubs (particularly the "purely positive" types one) do advocate the use of head collars. The RSPCA also sells them.. At a random guess? The people who's dogs reacted by screaming/shutting down/pawing and scratching at their faces/rolling on the ground etc. either persisted and managed to get their dog to accept the head collar before taking it out in public, or they gave up. :D I do agree with you that I would never use a prong collar on a dog when riding a bike though. If I have a prong on my dog I want to know that I have 100% control over the correction (if needed at all). I also put a flat collar on him so that I can switch over if need be

Aidan, no offence but a client using a head halter fitted and used under the guidance of an experienced trainer (you) is worlds away from those with no idea who buy theirs down at the local supermarket, put it on their dog and proceed to jerk them around. I would think (and only my oppinion here) that those who bother to consult with a trainer would take a fairly serious interest in their dogs welfare and that would influence how careful they are in choosing and using appropriate tools for their dog Same goes for prong collars (or any tool really). And I think that we are very lucky in Australia that prong collars are NOT available in supermarkets or pet stores to all and sundry, which would open up the doors for them to be abused by people with little idea. But at the end of the day you are right, this is a thread about prong collars: as per the OP "are they legal?" - in all states but Vic yes they are. And through other posts "are they safe" - of which my oppinion is if used correctly then yes they are, very much so :D

Not to single you out SK, as others have said similar, but I think in a thread where people are attempting to clear up unsubstantiated opinions about one tool we should be careful not to start making them about other tools. True Many tools have their place when used correctly. However when it comes down to it I do believe that a halti (unlike a prong, a check chain or a front attaching harness) is a constant aversive to the dog in most cases. Yes I have. Before I put my dog in a prong I put it around the top of my leg (directly on the skin) and gave myself an almighty correction (as in as hard as I could). Did it hurt? At that level yes it did - it pinched/stung my skin. But no-where near as much as the check chain. And when popped at the level which I use for my dog it was more irritating than painful. No, nothing of the sort. The prongs are blunt, when the collar is tightened they move at an angle and 'pinch' - they do not press directly into the dogs skin.

Well fortunately we live in Australia, where people can't "basically walk into any pet store and buy one" There are people in the US who are VEHEMENTLY against abortion too... doesn't make them right. Hmmm so you are agreeing with people commenting on something that they dont understand? Perhaps if these same people knew how dangerous some other "tools" can be in comparison they would think twice.. They are only aversive when you are actually correcting the dog otherwise they do nothing. Unlike a halti for example which is constantly aversive for the entire time that it is worn. eta, as Erny already stated: There's a bit more to it than "They only work at all because they are aversive" dont you think?

Your sisters advice sounds good. It doesn't look like a huge chunk and it should pass through If she were mine I would be keeping a super close eye on her over the next few days and check her poop! Try not to stress though. It wont help either of you. I'm sure she'll be absolutely fine though :D