witheverythingiam

No every 4 weeks. You could always go up a tablet size, and halve it? Off label, but so is giving it once every 6 weeks.

-WithEverythingIAm

I made mine out of Poly Pipe (40mm) & fittings. I have some pics on my desktop somewhere if you wanted me to dig them out?

-WithEverythingIAm

Hi Boxa,

Just wanted to see how Bondi's op went today?

-WithEverythingIAm

Bondi is having tumour (vet said exactly the same thing WEIA told me) removed on Tuesday morning. They are going to send it away to be checked just in case.

I should add "Dr" to the front of my name and start charging for online consults

Not sure if it's common to other breeds mokhahouse, but working as a Vet Nurse, the only boxer's we saw without epuli, were under 5 years of age, so seems to be age related to the breed.

-WithEverythingIAm

Boxa - nothing to worry about - it's a VERY common occurrance in Boxers. They're called Epulis. Rocky had a mouth full of them (but hardly any of his were lumps, just gums growing up over the teeth). Whilst they are a tumour, they are 99% of the time non-cancerous.

If you're worried, book Bondi in for a clean & scale dental, and get them to cut off, or cauterise the epulis off whilst she's under GA.

They will eventually grow back, but you should get a year or 2 between removals.

-WithEverythingIAm

We did them at Currimundi Vet Surgery, Midol.

The Vet Karin is a perfectionist, so will only take good shots, to send away. Tell them you want Dr Wyburn to score them if you book in with them, as they only have the ANKC scoring paperwork, and one of the Vet Nurses will organise to get Wyburn's instaid.

-WithEverythingIAm

damn - both miles away. Oh well....

We used to go to Lure Coursing in Brisbane, from the Sunny Coast. It's only 1.5hrs away.

Not many places where you could run the course, as it's needs to be in a totally enclosed dog fenced paddock, so the dog can't escape.

-WithEverythingIAm

Can anyone tell me how the titles work in Lure Coursing (and what you have to do for each title). The are not ANKC titles correct?

Just about to send one of my dogs up to QLD and the lady looking after her is interested in taking her Lure Coursing. Do I need to join the Lure Coursing Association? Do I need to register the dog with them?

Hi there,

OK, it's been a while since I was at QLCA. Firstly you have to join up to be a member otherwise your points mean nothing. It's also cheaper each day the dog competes if you're a member. You must photocopy your dogs ped papers, and give to them, as they are trying to get ANKC to recognise, and hopefully eventually it will be, but might take some time. Now don't quote me on the first 3 scores I mention, as I can't remember that well, but I THINK it may be right? The FCh & LCM titles are right though.

OK, first title is Novice Courser - you must have 3 x trials where the dog is awarded 155 or more?

Then Intemediate Courser - 2 x trials with 160 or more?

Open Courser - 2 x Trials of 165 or more?

Field CH - once you have OC title, you compete for this, and must get 3 x 170 or more.

Lure Courser of Merit - once OC is attained, 3 x 180 or more.

So if you got 180 or more after gaining OC, you'd actually get the FCh & LCM titles at the same time.

not many LCM around, and I think most of those would be sighthounds.

My Boxer got 180 on one occasion, but he was only NC titled at the time, so that score does not go to his LCM if we started back there again.

As to "work" put in - I get my shoulders ripped of from the sockets pretty much each time when I have to hold my dog in queue

I had this problem too, until I got my dog a new lead, which has a normal handle, and also another handle built in down near the collar. It has a normal clasp, with a swivel, so when my Boxer was going crazy wanting to get out there, no more problems. Lead available in 4' & 6' lengths. I also got a collar to go with it, a quick release collar, but with metal hardware instaid of plastic.

-WithEverythingIAm

Can someone explain how you teach your dog agility and speed when doing lure coursing or is it something the dog naturally learns by themselves?

Naturally. Although, when I took my Boxer "Rocky" (ET OC) entertained us on a few occasions at Lure Coursing in Qld - he actually jumped the divider fence (about 1m high), but was so focused on the lure, he didn't notice it until he was around 30cm from it. He still jumped it with ease though (maybe because he was already partially trained in agility?) even though he was supposed to go around it. Silly bugger!

He loved it though (with scores from 167 up to 180 out of 200), hence why we kept taking him back. But then he started getting lure wise, and so we decided to give it up for a bit, and then got involved with cat showing, and never got back again before we moved to Victoria. So he will forever be an OC (Open Courser), and won't be a FCh (Field Champion) unless we moved back, and get involved again.

-WithEverythingIAm

Anyone have any ideas on a diet that will put some weight on it?

2 things I've found that have worked in the past "Sprint Oil" by Ranvet, and "Great Barko" dog food. Both put weight on our skinny very active boxer Rocky. If you do Great Barko, perhaps a 50/50 mix with his normal puppy food?

-WithEverythingIAm

has anyone used the supermarket brand exelpet for worms?

If you want to waste your money, go right ahead & buy it.

I call excelpet "The lazy man's expensive wormer" as it's usually only bought by people who are time poor - too lazy to walk into a Vet Surgery to buy their wormers, as although it's cheaper, it's just too inconvenient.

-WithEverythingIAm

Great Barko & Uncle Albers only come in 22kg. I guess at just $30 a bag, most people wouldn't mind getting that much.

Have you thought of contacting the makers, and see if they have a sample bag they could send you? If the dogs like it, then you could start buying the 22kg ones, and store in a sealed plastic container to keep fresh?

-WithEverythingIAm

Teebs, if he's worrying at it, then book him in to get it removed. Does he need anything else done whilst under G/A? Dental? x-rays? etc - if so get those done, and get the Vets to cut it off at the same time. That's what we did at the Vets, and didn't charge any extra for it.

-WithEverythingIAm

Permoxin - that's what we used in Qld, and is quite cheap. Especially if your dogs are swimming every day. Apply it every 3rd day. But really when it comes to ticks, you're better off using more than 1 form of coverage ie Permoxin & a tick collar, Proban & Advantix etc. Only problem with Permoxin (as with Fido's Fre Itch & Advantix) is that if you have cats, don't let them near the dogs for a day after application. It will kill the cat.

To control the worms/heartworm Milbemax once a month, and fleas, Advantage once a month.

-WithEverythingIAm

I would & do use Great Barko. My dogs do better on it than the Eagle Pack they were on before switching!

If no Great Barko in stock, I'd get Uncle Albers - made by the same company, and the same price, just a different flavour.

ETA - Surely if you ask around the stockfeed places, you could find one that's willing to try selling Great Barko? It's made in SA, so shouldn't cost too much for them to freight a pallet of food to Perth? Especially if they sell it for around $30 for 22kg, one wonders how much they buy it for?

-WithEverythingIAm

How did you find this out?

thanks

Exactly what I was wondering...

-WithEverythingIAm

Yeah Midol - 'twas I. I used Big Dog Pet Foods for both my poochies & feline friends. They're good & cheap, but are situated in Lawnton North Brisbane. You can get them to deliver to the Sunshine Coast, but of course you'll have to pay a fee.

-WithEverythingIAm

By using a food dehydrator.

-WithEverythingIAm

Sentinel won't kill fleas, it'll just render the ones that bite them infertile.

If she wants to kill the fleas currently there, a Capstar every 2nd day for 2 weeks would be a good start. Having said that, if she takes it for walks, or to friends place that has fleas regularly, then it's going to pick up more fleas. If this is the case, she should give a capstar every time she does this about 1/2hr before she's due to come home.

Either this, or use Advantage etc instaid of Sentinel for flea coverage, as well as changing from Sentinel to Interceptor Spectrum, or Milbemax wormer (both by the same makers of Sentinel - Novartis), so she's still covering worms & heartworm.

-WithEverythingIAm

Hi everyone,

I was just wondering if anyone knows a place I can see a map with the distribution of where heartworm can be picked up in Australia?

Thanks!

-WithEverythingIAm

I already knew about Panacur for Giardia:)

I actually use this to worm my baby kittens - 0.1ml/200g bodyweight of the Panacur 100. It can also be used to worm puppies & Dogs, and should be much cheaper than normal wormers, but you have to give the same amount over 3 days for it to work best.

-WithEverythingIAm

Yep - definitely priceless pets.

-WithEverythingIAm

Great Barko

Uncle Albers

they can both be added to the list, as they are both made in Australia (South Australia) and are not irradiated.

-WithEverythingIAm

Great Barko - $25 = 22kgs = $1.14 per kilo = 3.5 cups = $0.86 day

WOW - that is cheap!

Yes it is cheap. I've got both my dogs on Great Barko, and their coats are looking great! But I would never feed the amount on the pack it says dogs are required each day - WAY too much - they got really porky feeding at that amount. I feed 2/3 the recommended daily amount.

-WithEverythingIAm