Addicted to Dogs

Lauren Golden Going from being right with you to outside on their own is a hell of a big step for a social animal. Check out home alone training advice at http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/home-alone on how to build up to it. Lots of small successful steps may seem like a lot of work - but it works. Let us know how you go.

mickey2081 Keeping him leashed and under observation is a great strategy in place of the crate if you can manage to maintain it. The reaction to strangers in the house though is of even greater concern. Check out http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/fearfulness, http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/teach...-respect-people and if you feel out of your depth or the issue isn't quickly resolved or gets worse please get professional help right now. Check out trainers in your area through your vet or try organisations such as the Association of Pet Dog Trainers (www.apdt.com.au) to identify someone in your area that can help. If not dealt with quickly it's almost guaranteed to get worse. Good luck

NicGSDlover It would see that if your pup keeps following the older dog and wanting to engage that while maybe rough the pup is not finding it too much. Keep an eye out for anything that makes you uneasy or signs that the pup wants out or is being injured. At the first sign step in and get professional help. If you really feel unsure now get professional help - even if all it does is put your mind at ease. Dog play can be loud and it can be rough - and it will change when your pup hits about the 5 - 6 month mark and becomes an adolescent and loses its puppy licence. To learn more about dog play, behaviour and language check out some of the great resources online (and beware some of the incorrect and dangerous ones). For instance I'd recommend starting out with info on dog play and behaviour at http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/dog-play, and communication at http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/dog-communication. Attached are three articles (sort of) that I wrote for another forum but you might find it useful now or in the near future - one on telling the difference between play and fighting, one on the puppy licence and one on the play bow. Play_Bows.doc Play_or_Warming_Up_for_a_Fight.doc The_Puppy_License_and_its_Loss.doc If you want more references for learning about dog behaviour and body language I'm happy to oblige. Let us know how you go - and keep up the photos please.

I would recommend a couple of things: 1. Get the kids involved actively with training the dog including not just the sit, down, come etc but also getting them to be able to send the dog outside, to their bed or asking them to move using positive reinforcement training - and no physical contact. For lots of good stuff on lure reward training (which is particularly useful with pups) at http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/lurereward-training and for some recent video footage put together regarding dogs and kids you might find something useful at http://www.dogstardaily.com/videos/tv/part...d-kids-and-dogs and http://www.dogstardaily.com/videos/tv/part...d-kids-and-dogs - particularly if the kids are younger. There's other useful stuff you might find there including http://www.dogstardaily.com/videos/sibling...aining-children. Hint though - given the issue make sure that the dog gets a far far better reward when he obeys a child than he gets from you (at least to start with and then sporadically after that). 2. Actively teach your dog to accept and even enjoy physical touch from your children. This might be contributing to the issue - even if he's not showing it in other situations. You can start with something like http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/handling-and-gentling. 3. Do not ever punish your dog for growling - and make sure no one else does. It is a warning with a purpose and nasty things happen if the dog learns that growling doesn't get him the space he wants/needs. For more info see http://www.dogstardaily.com/blogs/why-growl-good. 4. Consider keeping a record on the fridge (on a whiteboard or paper) of when this happens - time, what was happening, where, who etc and see if you can find what is triggering it. 5. Teach the kids not to use their hands and touch to manage the dog - lure them out or get an adult! 6. If at all in doubt or if the issue does not quickly resolve get professional help - it's costly but not as costly as physical or mental damage done to a child or having to euthanise your dog. Let us know how you go

MavericksMission I hope that your issue has subsided by now. If not here are a few ideas: Check out the info on handling and gentling from DogStarDaily including the article at http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/handling-and-gentling and the videos at http://www.dogstardaily.com/dogstars/video...est?filter0=164. This might all just be too much for your pup - try backing off from the full on restraining and go back to basics. You could get yourself a clicker and treats (or just say yes and give treats). Touch the pup somewhere, quickly and lightly - somewhere you know that they will accept and click (or say yes) and treat. Gradually build up to more and more contact, and then slight hold and then release, etc. If your pup won't even accept the first steps without whining then you can try touch and contact with different surfaces like feathers, paint brushes and all sorts and then get to hands. I know you said the issue was restraint - but if the underlying issue is anyway related to touch and contact then this will help through it. If not -its good experience for you and the pup anyway. For some dogs putting on a tshirt or dog coat that is in firm (but not tight) contact all around their body or a body wrap can help them with all sorts of issues - including making them less stressed about touch and restraint. If you're interested in all of this, and even some specific and amazing touches (from TTouch) then check out your newsagent for a copy of the magazine 'Unlock Your Dog's Potential' for about $15 or I can suggest some websites - but the mag tells you more. Let us know how you go.

Great to hear that medical reasons have been checked out. You say your dog came from a pet shop and at quite a late age (4.5 months). That sounds like he's had plenty of practice at toileting where he needed to eat and sleep - which as you point out is not natural, however he never had a chance. As already mentioned you need to go back to basics as though he was an 8 week old puppy just brought home. I recommend checking out http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/errorless-housetraining for info. Note that it talks about a long term confinement area because in the USA it appears that many dogs are brought up totally indoors - so for here that might be the time you have him out in the yard. Free access to the house and your bed needs to be earned. For now it would help if you kept him with you when you can keep a 100% eye on him to watch for signs of needing to go. Get him used to a smaller contained area and maybe a crate for other times. See http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/puppy...m-amp-doggy-den for some ideas on that. Some of the info in the videos at http://www.dogstardaily.com/dogstars/video...west?filter0=51 might suit you better if you prefer to see and hear info. Good luck

It sounds to me like many of the issues you're having with your pup are ones that many many puppy owners first time around and even experienced hands who haven't had a pup for a while experience. With the training and treat issue leading to nips/bites then I recommend that you teach your pup 'off' and also to take food gently. With nipping etc happening during play then a couple of things - end the play session for 5 or 10 minutes rather than turning your back for 10 seconds. You can also try not letting the play get to that level of excitement and arousal - just do a little and then give it a break before going on. Teaching games with rules like fetch and tug might help - because the game only continues if they show self control. Check out: http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/puppy-biting http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/teach...bite-inhibition http://www.dogstardaily.com/video-cck/thic...0/field_video_0 http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/dr-du...nswers-top-faqs http://www.dogstardaily.com/videos/training/67 http://www.dogstardaily.com/video-cck/thic...0/field_video_0 http://www.dogstardaily.com/video-cck/thic...0/field_video_0 http://www.dogstardaily.com/video-cck/thic...0/field_video_0 For a start.

Just checking - has the pup been wormed? I totally agree if the pup is active and otherwise healthy then I wouldn't worry too much. Leaner is better than overweight and as the grow they will tend to see saw. Keep an eye but don't stress too much. If worry continues see the vet again (or another vet if not confident with present one). Another thing I've seen work is making the pup/dog work for his food rather than just presenting it. Options for this include: 1. Feeding from a Kong or other puzzle toy - see www.dogstardaily.com under the Training Textbook for errorless chewtoy training on how to introduce and use this. 2. Ony feeding the pup during short training sessions - a few minutes a few times after you get home or before each meal and then if you want to letting them have the rest in a Kong or similar. You can also present the meal for a limited period of time (put down for say 5 to 10 minutes) and then pick up the bowl and it goes away until the next meal (with fresh food if using other than kibble). These might help - or not.

Check out the information on puppy training and particularly the info on errorless housetraining and the puppy playpen etc on www.dogstardaily.com under the Training Textbook heading. Read the info and check out the videos and other info that will be presented down the right hand side of the page. Hopefully this will help you with the housetraining issue that you're experiencing. Getting him a cat litter tray and inserting a sod of turf may work and I think their's some info on that at this website. If not happy to regurgitate what I remember about using this approach. As for the hours left alone is there somewhere like a kitchen or bathroom that can be made puppy safe and have baby gates put across it to give your pup some more space. The website will also give you some clues on how to introduce and use a Kong to increase the likelihood that your pup will use it and get all sorts of spin benefits. Is it possible for someone else, like a neighbour to drop in on the little fellow part way through the day or for you to leave him with someone? If not then you might want to think about day care options, doggy visits with doggy friends and/or dog walking as options for him during the day. Dogs are diurnal (sp?) so they are most active morning and night - particularly single dogs so having a long period during the day to sleep is not necessarily harmful, if not ideal. But it would help to get him pretty tired out with some training and exercise (play etc) in the morning before you go and then leave him his meals (depending on what he's being fed) in puzzle toys and a treat or two (safe ones) to keep him occupied throughout the day. Even having a timer come on with the television and/or radio would give him something else to focus on. It sounds to me like you're anxious to do the best you can for your pup. If in doubt I'm hoping you can get advice from the pup's breeder, your vet and perhaps talk to a dog trainer or behaviourist in your area. If you possibly can then get him into puppy classes ASAP as this will help both (all) of you out no end. If your vet runs one then I'd definately start by checking out theirs as a puppy that gets great fun and experience at the vets is much happier to go there for other reasons - and with puppy classes he won't need all his vaccinations to be able to attend (as long as they take certain industry standard precautions). Good luck

Mental exercise is the most tiring of all so if short periods (gradually building up as your dog gets older) of training - just minutes a few times a day, puzzle toys and changes in their environment like things (even their food) hidden for them to find and then getting out for walks and even just sitting and taking in the world should all help. You can also teach them tricks and games like fetch and tug with rules and put them into your routine. You can put scent trails around the yard. You can use stuff around the house and yard for puppy agility and mazes. The only end to how you can exercise their mind is your creativity (with a touch of common sense). Don't worry - if you challenge his (or her) brain and give them enough exercise to stay healthy they'll thrive. But beware - really stimulate a puppy and get them out and about and learning new things then expect trouble if you suddenly stop because they've gotten older and you think they can cope without you, or your work takes over or whatever. Once they get hooked on learning and getting out into the world they don't appreciate it all stopping - and tell you so in ways you might not appreciate. So figure out a balance that will help your pup through its puppyhood, prepare it for adolescence and be sustainable through life. Not saying you have to keep doing all the same things - infact just the opposite - mix it up. But don't set your pup up for frustration by giving it the world because it's cute and easy to handle and you love spending time with it and then expect it to accept 'just being a dog' if you get what I mean. Oh and we expect cute photos and updates along the way

Nushie Check out the information regarding housetraining at http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/puppy...m-amp-doggy-den and http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/errorless-housetraining. You'll also get all sorts of spin offs from an approach based on this one including your pup learning to chew appropriate toys and also be happy and comfortable when left alone.

JaxD Your pup may be reacting to the training - perhaps it's too intense or going on to long for him, even if it only seems to be a short session for you. Try shorter sessions with perhaps even just one or two reps then a break or play time. Even the cuddle time might have been too intense for him if he's not 100% comfortable being touched all over or restrained. Try it and see if it makes a difference. It may also be that he's just finding it over stimulating - same technique would apply. He may also be trying to get your attention and if so then if he does it turn and immediately walk away and ignore him, no words, looks (except out of the corner of your eye) or touch for a minute or so. If he sits or stands quietly you can praise him. With consistency he should get the idea that the behaviour does not get what he wants. But if his reason was to try and break off from too intense a session (as would by my first idea) then if you go for this then he might learn that this is a way to redirect you - so I would advise trying shorter sessions first and if it happens at other times then try the 'time out' as described here. Good luck - and we expect an update

Jed I've responded below but also attached a summary of some research that I recently did on Bloat - bloat.doc. Thought you or others might be interested. What breed? German Shepherd Dog How old was the dog? 5 years Was there a familial component? Unknown What was the dog being fed? Need some detail of what exactly - if dry food, which one, if raw, what it was - Royal Canin Hypoallergenic How often was he fed? Once daily or more? Twice a day Was his bowl elevated, or on the ground? On the ground What was he doing when he bloated? (ie, at a show, at home, playing, at home alone) Had just eaten minutes before Has he bloated more than once? No Has he had a gastrowhatsit? LOL (too lazy to look it up, but you'll know ) Yes - during surgery for GDV Did he ever bloat after that? No Did the dog also suffer GDV - here I am confused I understand GDV to be the scientific term for bloat - am I missing something here Did it have surgery? Yes What was done to relieve the bloat? Tried passing a tube but it wouldn't pass through to the stomach so took xrays and then performed emergency surgery. Did gastro thingy at the same time. I'd also be interested in survival rates, the quality of life or ongoing issues since. My boy developed megaesophagus about a year later which the vet believes is related to the trauma of the GDV and its treatment. Loves life still but brings up food or water without notice anytime, anywhere - and its as much as shock to him as it is to us.

MissLotus The first step whenever behaviour suddenly and unexplicably changes or behaviours like housetraining break down is usually to get a vet check. This makes sure that any underlying medical cause is understood and treated before you get on the 'dogs case.' Despite the weeing appearing to only be when you put the pup away from you it may still be worth a check up. I agree with some of the others that anxiety seems likely as one of the underpinning issues - if not the issue - here. Think about how your dog reacts hen you're at home together or with others around - are they always following you around or cool with chilling out on their own? When you put your dog out but you are home how do they react? If you leave them with someone else are they calm or very distracted or even distressed by your leaving? When you leave them home alone how do they cope? Do they pace, winge, dig, bark or settle readily? If you see signs that your dog is not comfortable in any or all of these situations then it would seem to strengthen the idea that anxiety is a major factor - and specifically anxiety about either being separated from you and/or spending time alone. Unfortunately our lifestyles (and I assume yours) require our dogs to learn to be comfortable doing just that. So now for some ideas to help: Put the crate back into your bedroom for the moment and get things back on track. By the way it's also okay to always have your dog sleep in your room - but I'm guessing that you have a reason for wanting them elsewhere in the house. Check out the home alone training information at http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/home-alone and practice it with and without the crate. Once you feel your dog is happy being left alone then gradually move the crate closer and closer to your door, then down the hallway and into the new space - rather than an abrupt in the room and at a distance. Make sure each stage is successful before moving onto the next - if not go back a step. By the way success is dictated by your dog's calm reaction and maintaining being dry at each step - not any other criteria. If this isn't working for you or you don't feel it's practical then perhaps you could set up an alternative such as a puppy play pen (or baby gate across a small room or part thereof) and apply the strategies recommended at http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/puppy...m-amp-doggy-den which allows the crate to be a bed and gives a specific space for toileting if needed. I hope you find something useful here. Addicted to dogs.

minpinmum Congratulations on your new pup. Hopefully things have settled down a little since you posted. If not then check out the information on teaching your puppy to like and respect people at http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/teach...-respect-people. You might also be interested in some of the other information about raising a puppy available at this site (www.dogstardaily.com) under the Training Textbook heading. Let us know how you go. There are plenty of other options or different approaches if you need them - but do something now rather than later (as these things often get worse) but also give your pup space and don't overwhelm her. You want experiences to be positive. Good luck. Addicted to dogs.