Addicted to Dogs

Mumof3 Food is largely used because it is a very quick and effective way of teaching many many behaviours through use as a lure and is quickly and easily provided as a reward. The idea though is that you very quickly drop the use of food as a lure and also start changing around the reward - how often, for what level of behaviour and what reward is given. Check out http://www.dogstardaily.com/blogs/dog-trai...2-3-4-and-1-2-3 and http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/food-critics for more info. You can also use toys and games - for a few great ideas check out the short videos on America's Dog Trainer TV show on DogStarDaily.com where one trainer shows you how to use fetch and tug in exciting new ways - http://www.dogstardaily.com/videos/tv/part...behavior-savior and http://www.dogstardaily.com/videos/tv/part...behavior-savior Food also has a side benefit that works subconsciously to give a dog feel good about an experience or place like training class or the vets. It's called 'classical conditioning' and yes it can be done by associating other things the dog really really likes with new or adverse places or things - but food is just so much easier and more handy to use. For more info check out http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/classical-conditioning So I guess food is quick and easy to teach things with - and has a few positive spin offs. It just seems to work - but unfortunately many many of us become over reliant on it or cannot seem to go anywhere or get anything from our dogs without food. The food critics article mentioned above can help avoid this. The other thing you might want to think about with your new pup (if you haven't) is that our working dogs were bred for and gettting great reward from the very activity of working itself. It's something that many many pet dogs are missing. Training and a daily walk (if they are lucky) are largely all they get. I recently was at a conference with many dog handlers from a range of agencies and providers whose dogs work for 'a game' or 'food' - but the international speaker pointed out that the dogs don't - for many of them the losing and then finding the track or scent was self rewarding. It's that level that it sounds like you want with your new pup - that the act of being and doing together is reward enough - food, toys, games, your voice, petting (if your dog likes it) can all help get you there. Use the tools that work for you and your dog and let us know how you go.

Oakeydoke1 I'd recommend getting some professional help if moving the food area doesn't work. This type of behaviour can quickly escalate and then spread to guarding other objects....or it might be nothing. But for safetys sake - yours, your dogs and every visitors I'd recommend getting a professional in to help you now. You could start by checking out www.apdt.com.au under the trainers directory. Oh and I'd also recommend not punishing the growl - why not? check out http://www.dogstardaily.com/blogs/obey-thy-dog and http://www.dogstardaily.com/blogs/why-growl-good

KelpieKaye If you're interested in other options for helping your dog with this fear check out http://k9pawsforthought.blogspot.com/2010/...nderstorms.html. I wrote this for another forum. It might give you some ideas or at least leads (no pun intended).

I love dribbly dogs I agree CDC ( http://www.actcdc.org.au/) sounds like it would suit you - and I've also heard good things about the BDC (http://www.bdoc.asn.au/). Depending on what you are after you could also consider the ACT RSPCA and their courses - which are shorter and focused on being a family dog and the skills that go with that not obedience - so no heeling at all for instance. They do run recall clinics to deal with the recall issue amonst distractions etc. The recall clinic is a 5 week program working specifically on getting your dog to come back when called (but again not like in formal obedience but rather at the dog park or if they escape you on a walk or from the yard). The program is based on games and play and costs about $85 dollars. Check out http://www.rspca-act.org.au/pages/page36.asp#recall. Good luck : )

Sandgrubber I'd recommend that you start introducing all the pups to the smell, sound and sight of the problem items (and lots of others if you aren't already) from as soon as you can - just at days or weeks old. Then the items should become less stimulating. Also you can get in and reinforce calm behaviour at that point. I can't see any harm in trying it and seeing if it makes a difference - and if it does just imagine how much happier your pups owners will be : ) For any older pups perhaps put a baby gate up and have the broom in sight. Taking each pup one at at time - get in really really quick with a marker (clicker or noise that has been associated with food) for anything that is an alternative to the behaviours you don't want. So if you don't want attacking, barking or jumping then anything that is not these gets rewarded. Start with just you being able to touch the items (or them seeing them) and then scale up to hold briefly, move slowly and build up. Then work without the gate starting from the beginning of the process - walk towards, then touch, move etc. Do each pup (and/or dog) individually and then try putting them together in pairs, and gradually build up until all pups/dogs can control themselves. A lot of work - but you did say it was getting to you....and with some dogs this structured approach can work in minutes, for others hours, days or weeks (and not continuous training for these periods - just short sessions periodically and never when you are stressed or angry. Let us know how you go.

Bud As has been mentioned you need to be clear about exactly what you want. Is it loose leash walking or a strict obedience heel position? Anyway to get you started on either I would recommend that you check out the following: http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/stay-come-follow - particularly the follow information as this is a great way to start. Make sure you check out the associated video clips on the right of screen. http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/lurer...tion-heel-leash - which takes it to the next step. http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/pulling-leash which talks about solving an existing leash pulling problem but also gives tips for avoiding it - again check out the associated video clips. This should give you some great ideas to get you started. Let us know how you go.

I start the day I bring home the puppy (8 weeks) with all sorts of training as games/play not serious training time. It all just blends together and is such fun they learn to crave those times - so beware when/if you start slacking off on challenging them. For some great home video footage of what breeders and owners have done with pups check out some of the following videos taken from just one site (www.dogstardaily.com): Housetraining you have to see to believe - http://www.dogstardaily.com/video-cck/thic...0/field_video_0 Toller Trick Training at 15 weeks - http://www.dogstardaily.com/video-cck/thic...0/field_video_0 Yorkie Puppy tricks - http://www.dogstardaily.com/video-cck/thic...0/field_video_0 Shar Pei Puppy tricks - http://www.dogstardaily.com/video-cck/thic...0/field_video_0 Irish Setter and Terrier at tricks - http://www.dogstardaily.com/video-cck/thic...0/field_video_0 Keep it light, fun and rewarding and they will give you everything they can

I'd go one step further and urgently suggest that you get both pups into puppy classes - but a different class for each. This way each pup has to learn to cope with the social situation on their own. You may find that the pups have different reactions when away from their sibling - and doing it alone (or more specifically with you) will build their confidence.

I think it's great that you and your pup are getting such fun out of training. Keep up the good work - have a go at a few tricks as well as they're always good fun for both of you. A tip which I learnt by not doing it with my pup is to also spend time teaching your pup to just chill and be there - to settle on a bed and just observe, to sit and watch the world go by when you go for a walk, to the shops or anywhere else. Life is not all about doing doing doing (although that's fun) and being at peace is a skill that takes practice.

You might also like to check out the info at http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/excessive-barking and http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/woofshush. I'd also recommend a walk in the morning or if not a walk some training or use of a puzzle toy/s for feeding breakfast - something that wears the dog out mentally. Let us know how you go. If it continues to be a problem there are other things that might help.

Verdant Amphibian You need to treat Hank as though he was an 8 week old puppy (albeit a big one!) and go back to the basics of housetraining. Check out http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/housesoiling and adjust to meet your situation - for instance the laundry (with anything dangerous taken away) might take the place of a playpen or the kitchen using kiddy gates. Don't just give him open access to the house. He has to earn it. There's more info on the set up and approach at http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/puppy...m-amp-doggy-den and http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/errorless-housetraining. Where's our photo?

Two things immediately jump out at me. 1 is that the pup is toileting in the house all the time - if he isn't housetrained why is having free access? 2 is that they are using punishment which is as mentioned can be harmful as it can teach the pup to toilet when you're not there rather than not toilet in the house. Also if they've been 'punishing' and it's still going on then they've not been using effective punishment - but I'd avoid punishment at all in this situation. They need to: 1. Go back to treating the puppy like it has no idea about housetraining - as it doesn't from the sound of things. 2. Restrict it's access to the house unless under 100% (all eyes on puppy for signs of needing to go) supervision. 3. Take the pup out about every hour or immediately after eating, playing, sleeping or drinking. 4. Make a real party when the pup does it outside - which means that they need to be there with it, have treats with them and immediately the pup goes feed it treat after treat (3 liver treats or similar are commonly used) and use praise etc. If after 5 to 10 mins the pup doesn't go then bring them inside to a confinement area like a crate (if the dog is appropriately introduced to one) and then try again in about 15 mins. Repeat until it's party time. 5. Congratulate themselves and their pup for 'going on cue' like it does now but not rely on that or rest on their laurels. 6. Stop the punishment - use a sharp oy or a clap to interrupt if they catch the pup going inappropriately and quickly get them outside to toilet. Then hit themselves for leaving the pup for too long or in the wrong situation - and not do that again. For more info check out the puppy playroom and doggy den set up at http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/puppy...m-amp-doggy-den and errorless housetraining at http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/errorless-housetraining. Note though that these instructions are for pups living almost totally indoors - so the long term confinement area could be an outdoor area instead. It sounds also like there might be an element of lack of control and even awareness of his urination so it all might take him as a suprise - so let's hope that he grows out of it. Good luck and let us know how they go.

Free access to the house or even larger areas needs to be earned. I'd suggest checking out the errorless housetraining strategy at http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/errorless-housetraining using a puppy playroom and crate as described at http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/puppy...m-amp-doggy-den. The approach was specifically devised for dogs kept indoors during the day in the USA so should suit your situation. A spin off can be getting your pup hooked on chewtoys like the Kong and therefore reducing barking, boredom and chewing issues and even the likelihood of them becoming anxious about being left home alone. This approach uses not just the crate but also a play pen to start with - which you can expand to a small room or part of one (kitchen for instance) with using kiddy gates. Go back a few steps now and get it sorted. Then start expanding the area and the time. Let us know how you go.

STITCH I'd be doing some testing to find treats or games that she finds super motivating or making her work for every piece of her dinner. You should see an improvement in focus after a day or two. As for her not rembering sit - is it possible that you just don't wait for her to sit before giving her what she wants (access to the house, outdoors, a game like fetch or tug) rather than she doesn't know it? It sounds to me like you might have a couple of issues colliding here including a) a dog that is over aroused/stimulated by training and shows this with the vocals b) an adolescent dog for whom the lure/reward training technique isn't as effective as it might have been, c) some stress/confusion associated with her trying to figure out what you want and possibly d) her not being convinced it's worth her time to always follow through even when she does know or have an idea what you want. Of course we actually can't tell what's going on in her mind - but you can try things and see how they go. You could try: 1. Putting a dog coat or tshirt (cut and then sown to fit or tied up at the back - off the spine though) so that it fits something like a Thundershirt (see http://www.thundershirt.com/ for an example). You won't need it for ever but it does help dogs centre themselves and be able to concentrate. 2. Using a modified approach that seems to work for adolescent dogs called all-or-none training to break through to her. See http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/all-o...reward-training for instructions. 3. Try teaching her to jazz up and settle down so that she and you can learn to control her arousal levels. See http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/jazz-and-settle-down for more info. 4. Do shorter training sessions (just a couple of reps, and just a few minutes in total) throughout the day rather than longer sessions. Don't train when you're stressed, anxious or feeling pressured for time etc. You can build training into daily activities including around the house (http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/lifestyle-training), on the walk (http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/training-dog-walk) and in the car (http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/training-car) so that it becomes a part of day to day existance rather than a special high pressure event. 5. Teach her woof and shush so that you have an off swith (http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/woofshush) or ignore all barking (as reacting to it could be reinforcing it). Don't try to do all this at once - and not at class either. Start at home - and then build up. If you're doing classes I'd recommend talking to your trainer about only doing very short stints and then practicing settling between activities. And if all else fails check out clickertraining if you haven't already as this can help clarify what it is you want for the dog. See http://www.clickertraining.com/dogtraining for more info. Good luck.

I totally agree - you cannot make comments on RSPCA's across Australia as though they are one entity. They differ greatly in personnel, resourcing, philosophy on some things and certainly on policies on some issues. Here in the ACT (and no doubt at other individual RSPCA shelters around Australia) we have a right to be proud. Don't believe me? Check out the attached research (article 2 of a set of 2 on Australian pet statistics) I did on Australian stats earlier this year for a different forum. You might be suprised. shelter_stats.doc

Thanks for the praise guys . Did I mention that as well as being addicted to dogs I'm also addicted to learning as much about them as I can (and sharing what I find).

I'd highly recommend turning him into a Kongaholic. Check out http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/error...hewtoy-training for instructions - also check out the videos (professional and people's home videos) down the right hand side of the page to see how others are working with the approach. Basically stop feeding him from a bowl. From now on his food comes from a few Kongs a day. Don't make them to hard to get food out of to start with and don't give in early and feed other ways. Once addicted you don't always need to put food in them and you can go back to feeding all or some meals from a bowl. Sounds like you have your hands full. Let us know how you both go.

For a fear of a particular type of person - such as men -use the approaches identified at http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/socia...ion-with-people and http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/teach...-respect-people and particularly focus on men and boys. If you prefer listening rather than reading check out http://www.dogstardaily.com/videos/training/106 and http://www.dogstardaily.com/videos/training/163. There might also be some useful info on fearfulness generally for you at http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/fearfulness and http://www.dogstardaily.com/videos/training/124 You can stop feeding your dog from a bowl and he only gets fed by hand (or initially with food thrown down for him) by men and boys - on the walk (if you can manage it) or that you can get to come around. Another trick is to throw a treat of high value down just in front of a fearful dog - far enough away from you and close enough to them that they will take it. Then for taking that step towards you throw an even better treat past them so that they step away to get it (make sure that they see it). Then they should turn back and look expectantly - throw another treat past them. They should quickly start looking to coming closer and closer as coming close is no pressure and is rewarded by being reinforced for moving away. sounds complicated - but works. http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/retreat-amp-treat gives the basics but in an extreme example. Do not force your dog to deal with people - you want the dog to be (and feel) able to move away to a safe distance. And top priority - safety, safety, safety. If the dog feels pressured he will bite - so don't go down that route. Oh and do not punish your dog if he growls - thank him for it and do something about it (check out http://www.dogstardaily.com/blogs/why-growl-good and http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/fearful-growling for more info). If doing intensive intervention such as suggested here doesn't work quickly (within days), your dog appears to become more nervous or aggressive around men or you don't feel confident doing this then please get professional help ASAP. Men and young boys are amongst the groups with the highest risk of being bitten by dogs - you don't want to go there. Let us know how you go.

I second the advice above - check out http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/socia...ion-with-people and http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/teach...-respect-people. If you prefer to watch and listen rather than read check out http://www.dogstardaily.com/videos/training/106 and http://www.dogstardaily.com/videos/training/163. Getting every possible person to give treats (of really high value) can help or you can give the treats each time they see a new person. Any fear or uncertainty about people and particularly new ones needs to be addressed as a priority. You seem to indicate that it isn't at this level and he's very new in the environment and to you so is undoubtedly feeling a little uncertain. If the issue grows, continues or doesn't improve rapidly (within days) of starting an intensive program as above then get professional help ASAP. Let us know how you go.

choice_brandy You could try taking the older dog (the one you don't own) out for a walk before you take your pup and then leaving him behind with perhaps a bone or food treat to keep him occupied. You really need to get your pup walking nicely on a loose leash but then it would be great if you could take the two of them out - even if only sometimes. This will mean having to do training with the older dog on walking nicely and then training the two of them to do it together. But believe me what you will learn in achieving this will set yourself, both dogs and future dogs up for success. What are you walking the older dog on? A flat collar, harness or head collar or something else? Perhaps a change of equipment, suitably fitted, introduced and used might help. Also check out the great dog training videos and info available on the www.dogstardaily.com website. They have started short 10 minute shows from different American trainers each week. There's some info on http://www.dogstardaily.com/videos/tv/part...vid-dog-trainer and the part 1 video that might be useful.

jasqng and your 2 mini schnauzer cross Jap Spitz You need to check that all 4 of the humans in the house are being consistent. Doing the caged up area with training pads sounds like it's working when the pups are contained there - but not when out with wider access. Is this right? If the training pads work when contained I can't see a problem there. If they're not working even when contained perhaps try a slab of turf in a kitty litter tray (or 4 - 2 in the area and 2 out in the sun) or something similar to the pet loo. Now it's time to get tough - sorry but you (and the other 3) are at fault if the pups are toileting in the house - not the pups. You should be taking them out to toilet when letting them out of their constrained area, after eating, drinking, playing, sleeping or at least every hour when toilet training. Given the pet loo - keep them on leash or put a fenced area around the pet loo area. Taking your puppy outside on leash helps you to tkeep them around to make a big fuss and reward toileting with happy face, happy voice and 3 liver treats (or other special treats) - while you can get away with it with 1 pup doing this off leash can be a bit hard if there is only 1 of you out there - particularly if they toilet simultaneously in two places. You need to get the reward to them in 3 seconds or less. So unless you are a superhero then you can go with the leash or take 2 people out, 1 with each pup so that the pups learn to toilet on and off leash. You also need to have patience and wait - if nothing is forthcoming in 5 minutes then bring them inside for some quiet time with you watching for any signs and then taking them out, or time in something like a crate (where appropriately trained for one). Then after 15 - 20 mins take them out again and try. You may have more success if they don't go out together - as the may be a distraction. Also don't talk to them, play or touch them - just stand and wait ready to party when they do the deed. By the way crate training for housetraining is not about locking a pup into a crate when you're not there. The idea is to use the crate for periods when you are there but can't keep an 100% eye on the pup, or after unsuccessful visits outside. See http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/errorless-housetraining for the full story (or at least one of them). Oh and check the instructions for the pet loo because dogs don't generally like toileting where they have been before - hence they will spread it all over the lawn if you let them. So maybe there are instructions for washing down or using the pet loo that you're missing (or maybe not) - just a thought. Let us know how you go - you've got a challenge with 2 at once. p.s. Please make sure that you give them time independent of each other so that they learn to cope - so many pups that grow up with another don't seem to be able to cope when one of them goes to the vet or anything like that.

Attached is the result of research I did recently on bloat/GDV for another forum. Thought some of you might find it useful. bloat.doc

As someone who was there when their dog bloated (GDV) and had to race them to the vets and then from the vets to the after hours emergency clinic for overnight care I would not hesitate to have this done when my next pup/s are desexed or otherwise operated on for other reasons. If it even reduces the chances slightly then I'd be happy. GDV is a horrific way to die.

Have you heard about or used TTouch? It's an amazing system of touches (bodywork) and groundwork (moving on a dog's balance while moving) that has substantial impact on the handler/s, the dog's health, movement and behaviour. If you're interested in more then there is stuff available (although a bit light on about the techniques themselves) on a number of websites including www.ttouch.com, http://www.tilleyfarm.co.uk/ttoucharticles.html and http://www.ttouch.co.za/. There are books and DVDs and now available a magazine version of one of them available for about $15.00 through many newsagents. But I've read them all and then went to a training course. They come over from Canada about twice a year to hold training sessions that last for 5 days - but you can also do just the first 2 over a weekend. You can take your dog or experience applying the methods on the dogs (and sometimes other animals) that others bring. It is the most awesome experience ever. I've seen fearful, reactive, ill and aggressive dogs change in just hours never mind days - I've seem handlers change too. If you are interested in more info I've attached a copy of an article that I wrote about just one of their methods - the Ear Slide and how it can benefit health. Ear_Work.doc There are training events planned for Sydney and Melbourne this May and again in November. Check out the details at http://www.ttouch.com/eventsLocation.shtml and note that dates are backwards (it's an American site). I'd really recommend attending one if you are desperate for a solution to a problem, looking for alternatives or to add tools for working with dogs to your toolkit or if you deal with dogs that are in rescue situations or ill health. Note though that you need to be open minded and just willing to go with the flow and observe what happens. Thinking it through won't help you. If you're interested in the research behind the technique check out http://www.ttouch.com/researchStudies.shtml. If you want to find a practitioner in Australia check out http://www.ttouch.com/pracDirectory.shtml#AUSTRALIA. Unfortunately there aren't yet many of them. Anyone had any experience with the techniques?