Mystiqview

I have previously when I had my dogs desexed taken off their front dew claws. (Never had a dog with rears).

The puppies today went to the vet to have their front ones taken off at day three. I know I had a problem with finding a vet willing to do it at three days, especially for a working breed. Mind you at three days.. 5 puppies, it only took the vet 15 minutes to remove, stitch and disenfect..the puppies are no worse for ware for their 'ordeal' getting the front dew claws off.

The front dew claws are attached to the bone and are more involved to remove. The back dew claws are only attached so to speak by skin and are easier to remove and get caught and rip.

I don't think it is illegal yet, although there is a movement against the practice. To take the dew claws off at three days is a far less operation than having them taken off at 6 months (or whenever the dog is speyed). I know my previous dogs had 5-6 stitches and bandages on their front legs for days.. well the bandages never lasted too long, and neither would the stitches if not for an elizabethan collar.

Since they're off. For me, its two less nails to clip, some people do not trim their own dogs claws in favour of the vet/groomer. As the dew claws do not touch hard surfaces, they do not grind down like normal claws, so I have seen them grown (especially if forgotten) into the leg.

I know some short haired breeders especially like the fronts off for showing as it does give a better line down the front legs. For me, its a safety thing. They don't get caught in fences and rotton tree branches when mine go down the dam/creek.

I know if you feed TOO much bone it CAN cause constipation.

Marrow Bones on small puppies may be too hard and can break the baby teeth.

I have heard of marrow bones splintering and getting caught either in the digestive tract or back of mouth. Have heard instances of chicken bones doing the same. Although both of those have been isolated instances and the dog concerned would eat a tin plate if given it.

Cooked bones - NO GO..

I buy bulk dryed pig ears and the rawhide bones when they are on sale at makro.

Have not had a problem with mine choking. Maybe cause I never have bought the flat strips.

Just because they are not digestable does not necessarily mean that they do not pass through the digestive tract. Chewing gum is not digestable...yet how many people out there eat chewing gum and swallow it... that would mean then that all those people would have full digestive tracts clogged up with chewing gum.

I have also bought dryed pig snouts. They are good for puppies/small dogs as they are not as large as pigs ears. I have also even cut the pigs ears in half to spread them out when I have had puppies chewing.

Too much bone also causes constipation, which is also not healthy.

Everything in moderation.

Any reason WHY they are bad?

I have heard that the bleached ones are not as good as the non bleached ones.

Have heard that gummy bones are bad.

I use heartguard and like others have not had an issue with it. I think I also went for a stint on Proheart which is tablets. I went back to heartguard cause it is easier to give a chewable tablet than put tablets down the throat (not that I have a problem with that either).

For all worms, I use Propantal. Same stuff as Drontal only cheaper. That also contains (I think) a relative to ivermectin. No problems there.

Even the yearly vaccination can cause problems in some dogs. Have not had a problem their either.

Maybe lucky. Any dog can have a reaction to medication, just like humans. I know with Advantage (different product I know) though, I checked the dose rate once with the manufacturer. They said that there is built in, A high error for margin built in most pet products bought over the counter (perscription ones I don't know), including heart worm, all worm (as they also make Drontal)

Sparty,

There are a number of border collies with various tracking titles, here and overseas. I know in the UK it is quite popular.

Think it depends on the individual dog. Getting them from looking up to down like any bit of training requires you to break it down to individual components. Clicker can be good to get them to start sniffing. I have to admit though, I had already taught Jemma at the time to seekback which is an obedience thing where they have to track back your scent to fetch an object (normally made out of leather) and bring it back to you.

But I started with her favourite toy and placed it in various places withing a room then other rooms of the house and told encouraged her to "find" her toy. Then moved up from there for the seekback item. Then moved onto seeking scent on wood, metal, leather for obedience articles. (have not done much in that training of late)

Kit Kat,

You are always more than welcome out my side of town. Have some excellent places here to lay tracks.

I did a weekend workshop on tracking couple of years ago.. the 4am get ups was the hard part. (and finding a tracking partner or someone else stupid enough to get up that time too to lay a track)...

Jemma: Pat and more pat. Those that know her call her "the slave"

Skye: Food and more food.. even then sometimes she does what she wants to. She is very independant that way.

Milo: Clicker and food. Very Very soft dog to train.

Have not used the conventional training for ages. When first started training 15 years ago.. check chain was all there was... One, two three yank. If the dog did not do as told... you made it with the chain.

I still use a check chain as a training tool only. I have never used it to "check" or "choke" my current (and recent past) dogs for as they are taught from a young age without a collar (or at most flat collar no lead)with food. For us, when the chain is on, it is only a signal to the dog that the work I expect from you now is to be "excellent".

One of the seminars I went to..(Ian Dunbar) they said the best way to teach a young pup was without a lead and food training. HE said that we always or at least in 95 % of the time inadvertingly pull on the lead every time we say "heel". So his training is done with food and no lead. His belief is that if you can get the dog to heel offlead first.. it will heel onlead no problems. Did my early heel exercises up the hallway, so I had dogs full attention.

THey are not cheap but Conmurra Hydrobaths make fiberglass whelping boxes in two sizes.

small 87cm square (inside measurement) think around $250

large 107cm Square (know this price $352 as I have ordered one)

I got my mating yesterday and today.. so we are really happy as well. Three naturals with 12 minute ties. Chapagne has been cracked and we have celebrated.

I fly home tomorrow at 10:45 am.. so will be at pet expo in the arvo with Dali Love.

Pity I could not have been there. Hope you all enjoyed it.

Things have come up here in Canberra and I cannot make it back intime for the training day.

Dali Love is going to be at my place so it still can be run from there as planned.

My mobile is 0417 618 242. Reception is not the best here, but have message bank turned on. And can call back if needs be.

Cheers

Tracie

Have fun guys and good luck... It is bloody freezing down here...

I am in Canberra at the moment and access to the web is limited. Those that need directions and contact/address. please either Pm Dali Love as she knows the way or PM Steve as I have given the directions to him. My mobile is 0417 618 242

I have let Steve know, those that are attending, can you please make sure your dogs are up to date on Tick treatments. One of the neighbours horses has recently succombed to Tick Fever.

I am also free for fleas and worms. Can those that are also attending check to see if these are up to date as well as I will be returning (hopefully) with a pregnant bitch the night before the seminar.

All those that have booked and are still coming can you please PM me so I can give you contact details (if you get lost) and the address (and or directions).

I fly out Thursday and will be offline from the net and will only be contactable by mobile until Friday 15th.

Cheers

Wont be there.. Will be in Canberra. I fly out on Thursday 8th and back on Thursday 14th.

Have fun guys... Skye will be.... shes going away for a dirty week.

I have booked the flights to Canberra.

I fly out of Brisbane Thursday 7th April and return Thursday evening 14th April. I would possibly only be contactable by mobile phone during this time

Looking at Skye tonight, we think we should be able to cover the mating in this time.

It is getting closer:

Update on what is happening? Is it still on?

I have a bitch about to come into season very soon now, and may have to make a dive to Canberra for the mating. She was not due until after the session, although she is starting to look as if she will be ready that weekend - Bloody Murphys Law. (hoping it is not that weekend - everyone cross their fingers)..

If so, Dali Love said that she can come over here and run it still from my place or run it from her place at Everton Park.

Will keep you informed on whether I will be here or not.

Will try to be there.

Skye is due in season mid-end april. So not booking up anything yet, incase we have to jump on a plane to Canberra so she can meet her boyfriend.

On a side note: Milo made his debut as a therapy dog at the nursing home yesterday. Was a total hit with the oldies. They just loved him and he just lapped up the pats.

Next weekend Milo and I are going boating with the neighbours.

Get some professional help with the E-collars. Especially if you have a smart dog. They are not hard in themselves.

I had to get a boundary one for one of my BC's.. I have a fully fenced 1.2 metre Chain Wire fence yard... about 12 months ago she found she could get under in certain places. We bought the boundary one.. did the training and in no short time.. worked out that when collar is on... she can't get out.. collar off and we go out... she gets out too...

They do work and have no problems with them when used correctly. My only complaint is with this dog.. it has not become a dependant thing as if the collar is off.. she is out. Had the people out here.. and there is nothing they could offer as suggestions as she has become collar wise.. It was not as if we were trying to use it as a first boundary line. It was a secondary one to a solid fence.

Dali Love has asked me to post this for her:

She is enquiring about how/when to pay as she has not heard anything more about payment for the day.

Feel free to PM me and I will pass it onto her as she is still without internet connection and has to use friends internet to check emails etc.

Cheers

Tracie

I have the electric one here made by Innotech. Rechargable, waterproof. It is fully automatic with a stop measure in it so that if the dog continues barking for a certain amount of time, it will stop, reset and start again to prevent a full-time electric pulse being emitted to the dog.

They can be great. Much depends on what the stimulii is causing the dog to bark in the first place.

Every training tool has a good and bad side to its use. When they are used CORRECTLY and effectively each tool is good. It is when it is NOT used properly is when there is cause for concern.

The whole body harnesses are really only good for strapping in the dog in the car. If the dog wants to pull or do what it wants, the weight is distributed in such a way the dog can do what IT pretty much wants, not what you may want it to do. You have less can I call it "prescise" control.

My pups were taught on flat collars using food and toys as motivators. However I use a chain when I am training, only as a specific collar which is different from their everyday flat collar. I have never needed to check, yank or pull on the chain for a correction. For my dogs, a voice correction is all that is necessary IF needed. Even then, most corrections are a little "ah ah" not a full on growl etc.

Most obedience clubs still mostly use check chains or head-halters as their main stay training equipment. I would not personally be too uneasy if they use these. However if they get you to FORCE the dog to do something using force.. then I would be VERY concerned and definately find somewhere else to train.

In all said, as long as you are consistant in what you expect from the dog, be fair and have loads of patience in the early stages (and in the later stages) you should not go too wrong. Try also to think outside the square when training at home. What the instructor infront of the class is teaching you is only ONE way to do things.. there are plenty of others, none of which are necessarily the RIGHT or WRONG.

EDIT: Even a flat collar can choke a dog causing it to vomit, just as easily as a check chain.. especially if you let the dog pull like a train

Kabana here... KR Castlemane brand.. cheapest around supermarkets here compared to Hans or the ones in the deli. Use the occasional cheese... but cheese I use sparingly... suppose it comes back to the old days where they said not to give cheese to the dogs cause of lactose.. dunno..

In an emergency, I have dried liver permanently in the car...

(edited to remove names)

Dont use the powder form...Tried to give to Milo as a pup ...One it stunk and two he wouldn't eat it..Even tried to mix it with warm water and pour over food...Nope..

The liquid form may be better.

He is on Livermol..and Linseed oil.. While it works a treat on the horses... they are also permanently rugged.

Kinda just got used to his beach bum look

With the horses we give Livermol to help coat colour.

Safe to give to dogs. The only thing you have to maybe watch, it is a protein and if given too much in conjunction with food.. they may put on a little weight