Salukifan

JLP: I strongly suggest you stop it. You have a resource guarder - quite an extreme one from what you've described but I gather he hasn't actually bitten anyone or anything. This behaviour has nothing to do with dominance. Indeed, the least socially confident dog here is the resource guarder. Making your dog 'submit' won't solve it. You need to manage the behaviour and take steps to encourage your dog in other directions. How much exercise does he get every day? K9Pro is in your neck of the woods and definitely the person I'd recommend you consult.

Sorry, but I cannot picture a Brittany being content with half an hour of walking a day.

I would add Whippets to the list of breeds you are considering.

So no neck X-Rays?

Apparently one of the reasons dogs love cat poo is its high protein content. That might might be the issue here too.

I heard it was TOTW rebadged. I know several people who feed it and their dogs do very well on it.

Skip: Your friend needs to be started on this journey by a qualified trainer who can SHOW her what she needs to do. A few one on one lessons from a decent trainer would be a good start. She has months of learned behaviours to undo. All the good will in the world will not be enough for a novice handler to conquer that.

These are what I use too. :)

Bit of an oxymoron there. You correctly state that you cannot effectively control a dog if you do not have control of it's head. You then go on to recommend a check chain which gives you no control whatsoever of the dog's head. A lunging dog is not what anyone wants to meet irrespective of whichever training tool the handler is using. You can control a dog's head with a normal collar. People have been doing it for decades. Want more control? Fit it up behind the dog's ears. All that a halti does is make it easier because its actually ON the head. But the analogy with a horse halter isn't accurate. They don't work the same way at all.

They are only as good as the person using them sadly. Some people seem to think they are a magic bullet for pulling. I've seen plenty of dogs who have learned to lean into them and pull. The magic bullet for pulling is, and has always been, T R A I N I N G. If a halti helps you achieve that, it all good. However, in my experience, a dog once fitted with a halti will wear it for life. Given the sensitivity of a dog's muzzle, that's really sad IMO. Pulling or not, the halti is tightly fitted over highly sensitive nerves. The number of dogs that claw their faces trying to get them off on first fitting is not small.

It happens. I know of one incident where the dog (wearing a halti on recommendation from a "trainer" to help deal with aggression/control issues) dragged its handler over 100m to attack another dog. It WAS a big dog though. I have also seen a handler grass skiing on a sporn harness. I bet you see dogs holding their heads about really unnatural angles or having their heads pulled around on haltis. My pet hate is kids with the lead and a halti on a small dog. Jerk.. pull the lead.. jerk....

A dog hitting the end of the lead on a halti subjects the most structurally fragile part of its spine to considerable force. Repeated hits are repeated trauma. They are simply not designed for use that subjects a dog to such forces. No way in hell would I recommend or use one on a dog that lunges, especially with a novice on the lead. And neither would Australia's leading chiropractic vet. In fact he recommends against their use at all. That's good enough for me. I also don't believe that any head collar is proof against a dog determined to get out of it. Not what you want on a dog with issues around other dogs.

The lunging makes a head collar entirely unsuitable for this dog. I'd also not recommend a harness - you cannot effectively control a dog if you do not have control of its head. Even worse for larger dogs. Your friend should ask her behaviourist for a recommendation but frankly I'd have the dog on check chain and be doing some intensive training to regain control. I'll take you word for the fact that the dog is not aggressive but a lunging out of control dog is not what I want to meet on my walks ESPECIALLY if it is in a halti or harness.

One thing I would recommend is that one of you commit to taking this pup to obedience training, preferably for at least the next 12 months. In addition to learning manners, she will develop focus and a willingness to follow commands. And it's amazing how well "sit" substitutes for a range of unwanted behaviours like jumping With such young children you have to supervise and intervene while the pup is learning what is acceptable behaviour and what isn't.. Mouthing and jumping are behaviours you have to train out. Personally I'd have her on lead around you son, inside and out. If you cannot supervise, separate them. I would have her crated at all times when the family is eating. Far safer for everyone.

The rental market is a bit flat at the moment with all the job cuts so you may do better finding pet friendly accommodation than in the past. You will need a keeper's licence for more than 3 dog and as SSM says, the sticking point is neighbours. Most folk I know who've applied for them have had them granted. It's pretty dog friendly here and lots of open space. I love it. :)

I'd add a proper kennel and continue on.

Mum lay down. Not an uncommon approach from a larger bitch. You have a mix of terrier, working dog and gundog. She will need plenty of mental stimulation! Not hard to tell why you've got a barker LOL Supercoat puppy isn't what I'd call a great diet for a pup. Suggest at least that you supplement it with some raw meaty bones like chicken necks and wings.

I wouldn't be starting on anything without a professional consult. What the OP needs is to manage these dogs to prevent any chance of biffo - completely. That means keepig the two dogs separate at all times. This is a pack issue, not a "training" issue IMO. Trying to bust up a fight between these two will be difficult and dangerous - for owner and dogs. SBTs may be not be quick to anger but once in fight mode they are tenacious. It is virtually impossible for one person to separate two dogs hell bent on bloodshed and I doubt the OP wants to place his/her family members at risk helping. I suspect there is a lot more going on here than competition for food. The dynamic between the two dogs has changed. I'd not be delaying calling in decent help.

Don't blame the dogs! Blame the idiot owner who decided treats were a good idea amongst a big group of dogs of unknown behaviour around food. Resource guarding is not a restricted to any breed or breeds. Best dust up I've seen over food was between a big bunch of Golden Retrievers over a picnic table laden with food. Never seen a more shocked bunch of owners either. Thank God for good bite inhibition - it was sound and fury only

A baby puppy has no capacity to effectively regulate its body temperature. it is susceptible to extremes of heat and cold. They feel the temps as we do. If you think your child would be cold naked in that kennel, rest assured your pup is. My guess is the pup is cold and lonely. It barks to express distress or call for company. That's you. If you are leaving food out for the pup 24/7, that's not the way to feed.

I have seen Dick Van Pattern's at Pet Barn before. It might pay to hit the online food suppliers to see if you can get it. Most grain frees tend to be high in protein. Good luck finding the right one although RC food seems well regarded by some folk.

Nothing to add except go easy on the tugging - its hard on a growing spine. Ditto for exercise - nothing like agility or running with you or beside a bike until he is 12 months of age at least. Good obedience training will shape his focus on you and occupy his mind - a good start to dog sports no matter which direction you go. Im guessing you probably didn't get a starter sheet with feeding guidance? What are you feeding him? One more thing, if agility is what you want to do, hold off on desexing until he's at least 12 months old too - he'll have better bone density amongst other things.

Pup's new vet has said not to worry. If he's the smaller pup, he'll be taking a pounding from big brother. That would see him tire earlier, especially if he's the quieter pup. He may be being bullied by his litter mate - it happens. I'd be very keen to ensure that he gets enough rest. The only way to know the severity of the murmur is to go back to the vet to seek further information and possibly a referral. Sounds necessary to put minds at rest at the very least.

All it takes is one ignorant/foolish owner to ruin it for everyone.

If you were prepared to have a dog professionally groomed, you could have a lot of fun with a Toy or Miniature Poodle - great agility dogs and also tend to be good with kids. I'd probably favour the Miniature size as a family dog. The pay off for the pro-grooming is that they don't shed. In the larger dogs, a Whippet could be good but they aren't the most natural of agility prospects (some compete though). Any gun dog or working breed is going to need a fair bit of exercise and stimulation, especially as an adult. For some breeds that are calm around kids, you have to survive puppy hood to get there LOL I think many dogs could suit your situation so a dog show is a good idea. A visit to an agility trial to see the sorts of dogs that compete might be a good idea too. I'd go a Papillon if I were looking for a toy breed for agility.