espinay2

This is a VERY specialist area and most pet groomers are unlikely to be able to do this. Best bet would be to contact breeders of scissored breeds in your area. If there are no Bichon breeders, try Poodle breeders. It may cost you a fair bit to get someone to do it though. Best bet may be to try and find someone to help you learn how to do it yourself. Is the dogs breeder close by or can they suggest someone in your area to help you? Maybe post something in the Show folder here too to see if anyone local can help you out.

Vit C and a decent diet. No extra calcium as this can cause problems. You may find simply putting them on a decent diet will have an effect. DEpending on the severity of the condition, this article may provide some ideas: Great Dane Lady Article - Bowed legs and Knuckling Over

And exacly where is your 'real world'? Around here your solution of 'changing with the times' involves baiting with 1080 which means a long slow painful death for foxes, wild dogs and wildlife alike. So sad when a few Livestock Guardians can do the job so much more humanely. But it seems they are not 'modern' enough for you. I will take the old ways any day. Sandgrubber if this is what is happening, and the issue the MP was trying to raise, then yes it needs to be looked at. Not a matter of getting rid of the dogs but modifying the training (of the handlers more than the dogs) to ensure more oversight of false positives.

Another breed to consider is a Dalmatian. Very people oriented, food driven so rewards are usually reasonably easy to deliver, love to run and jump so can be great for sports like agility, but just as willing to snuggle with you on the lounge in the evening. Not always ball oriented though so may need to be taught to retrieve (using food rewards this isnt hard).

Just call him a Heinz Variety or Mixed Breed and describe his personality. I think sometimes too much emphasis is put on guessing when a wrong guess can give a wrong impression.

The majority of dogs would be MUCH happier doing the job they were designed to do that sitting around all day being 'companions'. I actually find it a little distasteful to have dogs considered as purely our 'entertainment'. While humans have developed a rapport with them, the majority of breeds were NEVER designed to be just companions and to say so shows an extreme lack of understanding of the species and its development. Dogs though history and now have assisted man. The jobs that dogs do are many and varied. They were on the whole bred to work. There are dogs that heard stock, dogs that protect stock, dogs that find things such as lost or trapped people, cancer, truffles and so on, dogs that alert to impending seizures, dogs that assist the deaf, dogs that assist with mobility, dogs that assist the blind, dogs that help control vermin, dogs that protect us, dogs that help us transport ourselves and our goods from A to B, dogs that help us hunt and feed our family (and on a worldwide basis these are still very important needs - we should not be so insular as to only look at dogs through western urban eyes). I have met working dogs doing all sorts of roles and on the whole these dogs are happy, fulfilled, and live a fuller life than most 'companion' dogs who live at someone beck and call in their backyard - many of which are slowly going crazy for lack of a job and doing the things that we hear about time and time again on these forums - digging, barking ,escaping, destroying things etc etc. The 'working' dogs on the other hand get on the majority more attention and more fulfillment doing something they were bred to do. When it comes to 'sniffer' dogs quite a few are dogs that have such a high drive that they were not suited as 'companions' - Their suburban backyard owners couldnt give them what they needed to be happy. They could be PTS by the pounds and shelters at that point but instead they go on to have a fulfilling life as a working dog.

Espinay - Chamberlains to the Kings of France at the time when the Pyrenean was a favoured court dog. Also roughly translates to 'spine of the mountain'. A good livestock guardian is the backbone of mountain life.

An example of how it can work. A good friend of mine with a young family decided they wanted a dog (already had a cat) and after talking with me decided on a CKCS. I helped them locate an older pup from a breeder. Pup was 9 months old and had been 'run on' for show but did not turn out. While they still took thier new dog to training classes etc, having an older pup just took the pressure off their dual working couple family with two young children. That dog lived until 14 in a very well loved home. Just recently they decided they wanted to get a dog again. Children are both high school age but life is still busy and both parents still work. They still have a cat. Again it was decided that a pup would not be the best option. CKCS was also their choice the 2nd time around - the breed really suits them. They talked to a number of rescue organisations and also the Cav club/cav rescue. Through them they were put in touch with someone who needed to rehome two Cavs through no fault of their own. They took a trip to meet them and both of them came home with them. While the 3 year old dogs need a little bit of work learning to walk well on a lead and had to be taught to use the dog door (again they will be taken to training classes as part of their 'settling in' process) they have settled in very well with their new family without major issue. In their case taking on older dogs worked for their family and frankly they have not missed the hassles of the puppy stage

Can the pup be separated froim the other dog during the day? Such is in a separate run? (beside the other dog, but not with the other dog if you get my drift). Then introduce something like a NILIF program. All food comes from the humans, all attention comes from the humans, walk them separately, crated at night or separated with a baby gate. This BTW, is not a 'permanent' thing but part of the process of bonding the pup with the family so that it sees food and comfort and attention coming from the family, not the other dog. Afte a week or two, re-introduce limited time controlled play sessions with the other dog (AFTER dog has interacted with humans first). Eventually they should be able to be introduced back together fully. Just a thought...has the pups hearing been checked? If as you say the pup is not responding to loud noises etc, I would get this checked just to be sure as a lot of what you describe sounds like the behaviour of a hearing impaired dog.

I submitted swabs to ASAP last November for DM, CMR and Profile on two dogs after they advised me that they would have no problem doing these tests. Despite being in touch with them every few weeks to try and find out what the h$%% they were doing, so far all I have recieved is a a result for DM on one dog. That was about a month ago. Nothing before or since and just a lot of excuses that never answer my question of when I am going to get my results. Frankly I have NOT been impressed.

Yes you can breed without showing, but IMO showing provides an added facet to a breeder or potential breeders dog education which assists them in rounding out their knowledge and education. Note that showing doesnt necessarily mean getting out there every weekend of every year. It may mean campaigning a dog to its title, or showing and attending specialty shows. As mentioned, you may do other things with your dogs as well and showing in conformation shows may be only a part of what you do. Showing IMO though offers more that just the ability to win titles. As mentioned it is a place to see other dogs and a place to meet other people in your breed and in other breeds too. Don't discount the knowledge you get from learning about other breeds and discussing 'dog knowledge' in general with other breeders. Like many I started out by doing obedience with my dogs. When I started showing part of the criteria I had for the dog I got was that the breeder lived in my area and would be able to mentor me in the show ring. I decided to get a dog of a different breed from my own as at that time there was no one in my breed that could mentor me in that way. I was very lucky in that the breeder I chose was a fantastic mentor and coached me in many things. She helped me to learn to look objectively at dogs. Learning to look at dogs objectively is a skill. To show well you need to be able to separate the emotion of a beloved pet from assessment of the dog as an example of its breed. This is something that a breeder definitely need to be able to do. Not everyone who shows (or breeds) achieves this, but it is a very important skill if you are going to be good at breeding. Through showing I have also met many breeders in other breeds who are friends, peers and mentors. We talk to each other and we discuss things. We can ask questions of each other and we learn from each other. Without showing this world would likely be closed to me. It is a major benefit and one I am glad I have. Showing also means for me looking at shows and attending shows in other parts of the world (though not with my dogs). Through shows I have met a lot of people in my breed worldwide who have helped me improve my knowledge of my breed. In my breed, even the farmers in the Pyrenees who are breeders attend shows - even if most years it is just the Nationale Elevage (the big national show for the breed held in the Pyrenees each year). It is their way to be seen and show off their dogs, to see what others are doing, to meet and talk to others in the breed about issues, to stay in touch and not lose sight of the big picture. That big picture is important. Remember, breeding is not about your individual dogs. It is about the Breed.

Yes, it could be, but it also doesn't meant that it is. The database is not very useful IMO as it provides no information on rate of occurrence and does not differentiate between occurrences that have been reported and information sourced elsewhere. There is no real way to differentiate between more frequently occurring conditions and one off occurrences. Frankly for my breed I don't give it much credence at all and rely on other sources for my information on genetic issues in my breed. Pretty much. In the case of the Pyr it was purebred, but no clarification of the data took place before the information was contributed. The breed was as listed by the owner (or vet nurse) in the vets surgery records. No other data was collected before the information was submitted by the vet. Note that the information is also submitted without the knowledge of the owners.

We should perhaps be clear that this is a list of both congenital and hereditary conditions complied by LIDA. Some of the conditions are listed as a result of a vet seeing a dog in their clinic that the owner says is that breed and reporting the condition for the database. There is no indication in this list which are genetic and which are congenital as a result of (for example) one reporting. I will give an example: The listing of Vaginal Hyperplasia for Pyrenean Mountain Dog was the result of a vet seeing a puppy of that breed with a mild case of this condition (which later corrected as the pup grew) and reporting it to the database. I also find it interesting that they specifically list X-Linked PRA for the breed when there is currently no genetic data available on PRA in the Pyrenean. No work has yet been done to genetically determine the type of PRA carried by Pyrs, with the exception of a genetic marker for CMR (which in fact can be mistaken for PRA in an eye exam).

Lets see....would I rather be searched by a sniffer dog, or subject to a pat down (or more 'thorough' search by a human). I wonder which one infringes 'civil liberties' more? ;) As stated, without knowing the number that the dogs failed to detect the argument really is moot as there is no way of knowing the exact success rate. That they are actually detecting these substances though means they are successful.

Before they do that they have to at least make it easier for breeders to actually do the testing. For example: My breed can get Canine Multifocal Retinopathy. There is a DNA test for it. I can not locate ANY company that will test for it (no Aust company will test for it, including the company that holds the licence, and the US company that does it will not do it for Aust dogs because someone in Aust holds the licence for all their tests!!!!) I want to do heart certs on my dogs. There are three cardiac specialists in Aust - one in Vic and 2 in Qld (so none in NSW). I have been searching for a club run clinic which seems the most common way to do it - earliest I have found is November. I have been trying to find some other way to do it but have been drawing a blank. Vets seem to think you are stupid when you ask and don't know what you are talking about and no one else seems to have a clue. There is no formal system of heart certification that is comparable to ACES for eyes (and there should be IMO!) Patella Luxation. At the moment testing for this is very informal. Unlike systems overseas where certificates/results are issued it is just a matter of getting your vet to do it, then try to get them to write a letter for your 'proof'. Some seem to not understand the scoring process and as one told me 'grade one is excellent with no movement' in relation to a patella normal dog. I am resorting to using OFA forms so vets know how and under what system I want them scored. IMO there should be a formal system of testing as there is for HD/ED (though of course no x-ray is needed for this one). If tests are going to be insisted on, at least make is easier for breeders who WANT to test to do it! (end rant).

Can the pup be separated froim the other dog during the day? Such is in a separate run? (beside the other dog, but not with the other dog if you get my drift). Then introduce something like a NILIF program. All food comes from the humans, all attention comes from the humans, walk them separately, crated at night or separated with a baby gate. This BTW, is not a 'permanent' thing but part of the process of bonding the pup with the family so that it sees food and comfort and attention coming from the family, not the other dog. Afte a week or two, re-introduce limited time controlled play sessions with the other dog (AFTER dog has interacted with humans first). Eventually they should be able to be introduced back together fully. Just a thought...has the pups hearing been checked? If as you say the pup is not responding to loud noises etc, I would get this checked just to be sure as a lot of what you describe sounds like the behaviour of a hearing impaired dog.

Yes, 6 months is very normal for a first season. As you are going to be keeping them entire, now is a very good time to start teaching your dogs to be separated. It is something you should be teaching them not just when she is in season so they are used to it. You are not going to want to breed every season (and she will have a lot more seasons than she will litters - and you may not want to mate her to him even when she does have a litter) so it is something they are going to have to get used to. He is only 15 weeks so likely at the moment it is only the separation that is really worrying him - as it is not what he is used to. Still keep him separated -while he may not be fertile at this age extra caution is always recommended as dogs can surprise you and either way it is good practice for you and them. When he gets older and his hormones kick in then the real fun begins. Males will often cry and whinge and try to get to the bitch and go off their food. This can go on for days (and nights). Those bitch pants as already mentioned are only for sanitary reasons. In no way should you be relying on them for birth control! Crate training will be useful if you are not doing it already. You will need a separate crate for each of them.

This above - agreed. He needs to know in no uncertain terms that the behaviour is not on and not something you will tolerate.

i've only had him for 3 weeks, he has been in a paddock with chooks at his old home since he was a pup. that's what i don't understand. i personally don't like muzzles, but i'll do anything to not have him put down. A couple of things. I am guessing he came from a situation where he was working with adult dogs? Adult dogs that knew their job? And likely did the job of keeping him in line too. He is a young dog - a bit like a teenage boy - and now he is on his own. He wants to play as young boys do and there is no leader there now to tell him the chickens are not his playthings despite the fact that they are flappy, fluffy, unpredictable and make funny high pitched noises. No one has been stopping him now the adult dogs are not there to tell him otherwise (and he has no other leader) so he doesnt know that he now can not do it. He is a kid and he is having fun with his new toys! So now YOU need to be his leader and tell him what is right and what is wrong. Yes, LGD's can work very well, but when young they can require guidance to know where the line is drawn and what behaviour is acceptable and what is not. If that guidance doesn't come from another dog, it has to come from you. I agree with Steve that a muzzle will not teach him anything. He will still be able to chase and pin a chicken and still have a game. Basically what he needs is supervision. And when you cant supervise to be in a position to lay down the law and teach him manners around your chooks by being his leader, you need to separate - either by a fence or a tether. Getting another pup will likely find you in a very similar situation when it hits its teenage period too. IMO this is more than likely not a dog that can't or won't work, it is a young immature dog that needs guidance and leadership on how to work. With the right guidance there is every chance that it will grow up to be a very effective guardian, but it needs that guidance now and it needs to have its opportunities to 'play' with the chooks removed so it doesn't keep thinking that that type of behaviour is fun and accepted. Best of luck!

From my experiences, they cough anytime, day & night. My old Lab's cough used to sound like he had something caught in his throat was choking. It was awful. Some dogs can get KC and not cough much at all. We have only ever had KC here once. An 11 year old (KC vaccinated) dog had it the worst and only had a mild cough for a few days. Another (non KC vaccinated) coughed mildly for one day. Often they will cough if you put light pressure on their throat.

Here is the AVA Policy on Vaccination. Note that C3 is considered the 'core vaccine' - the rest is 'optional'. Your dog, your choice. I am another than only uses C3 for the most part.

Haven't looked at the live streaming, but if anyone wants to see some lovely Pyreneans (Patou), check out the second video on the vid page. Breeder they visit is Benoit Cockenpot of Elevage du Pic de Viscos in the Pyrenees. He is a goat farmer, author, and one of the top Pyr breeders in France (the world). His bitch Biesca is actually this years WW for Pyrs too.

Salzburg!!! Want to come on a Sound of Music tour with me Feefs?? W I will be in on that! :D Or then there is Finland...or Italy.....;)

It does amaze me sometimes how many people can be willing to risk something happening to their dog just because they think they have a 'right' to do something. A little dog knowledge coupled with common courtesy can go a long way...... Personally when it comes to my dogs I prefer to 'drive defensively' so we all enjoy ourselves and stay safe. Each to their own I guess. Poodlefan, I guess when it comes to protecting our own dogs, we were just lucky enough to be in a place where we were taught well about 'managed dog play' ;)

This dog is only a youngster and needs guidance still. You need to teach him how to behave around the chooks. Some good info here: LGD's and Poultry I also recommend joining the LGD-L email list. You can find info on joining the list on the LGD.org website (make sure you also check out the library page on the website which is full of very useful info)