espinay2

I feel your pain Saffoiraire, as it is one I have struggled with. There are quite a few in my breed that have early desexed for nearly 20 years and have been very happy with the procedure - they have kept good records and slightly taller dogs (more length in long bones) was the main difference in some cases, but not enough to cause any issues. I am on the fence, but do feel I would definitely consider getting it done in some situations though it is far from my preference. Leaning more towards tubal/vasectomy though at this stage as a possible alternative though haven't done enough research on this at this point. All about risk management in the end and your own personal risk assessment will be what guides you to make a decision for any individual dog.At this point a really don't feel there is a right or wrong answer, though some will argue strongly on either side of the debate.

If you go to the breeders forum you will see a number of threads on scoring hips and elbows. Note that we use the Willis system here for scoring (same as the UK). The Australian Veterinary Association (AVA) and ANKC has CHEDS which most use, though many will not use this directly (as the x-rays are sent randomly to different scorers) but instead will send them directly to a particular scorer (see threads in breeders forum regarding recommendations for this). Both are acceptable ways of doing it. Here is a link which explains the Willis system of scoring if you are not familiar. It is a bit more specific in its result than the European system of A/A etc as the numbers aren't grouped in grades. Here is information on comparing scoring systems so you can work out roughly how the different scores compare.

Can't remember who from - I picked it up one really hot show day in Canberra. You just slide it on over the existing cover and bungee it at the corners. Have only used it a couple of times since but found it did make a difference.

Not bad to throw over the top of a big crate though if you are in a pinch for other shade, and will help a lot used that way, but agree it works best if you have more of an air gap and are shading more generally.

Available in a number of places. Greatrugs sells it though there are a few different manufacturers & suppliers. I have walls and a top for my gazebo. Love it - it definitely makes a difference. ASk in the show forum - very commonly used at dog shows here and quite a lot of people use it.

Not too sure about this one as while it does look to have some more recent data, for my breed it only has 3 dogs listed as being scored (the one I posted has 27 and looks to be data from 2000 to 2004 incl). I know for a fact that more than three Pyreneans have been scored in the period from 2005 to 2009 and that there were scores both higher and lower than the ones mentioned.

This is the link I have: http://www.ava.com.au/sites/default/files/documents/Other/CHEDS_breedchart.pdf

If you are going to Burns it is not that much further to go to Luddenham. Fresh, and I have been happy with quality of what I was getting there but limited opening hours and not for the squeamish. Too far for me to go on a regular basis, and limited weekend hours do make it difficult (but they are not really a retail outlet after all even though they sell pet meat on site....) After buying from so many places that think 'dog food' means it can be rotten, I actually buy most of my chicken from Lenards outlets now. Never had any rotten frames from them and the price is still pretty reasonable if not the cheapest (cheaper than chucking it out or dealing with the stench that is for sure!!)

I have Karo, but you can substitute with sugar, glucose or other corn syrup. Basically it is providing instant energy through sugars.

From here If you use cows milk, adding a junket tablet to the milk will break it down too. Using goats milk is a preferred option IMO if you can get it.

Leerburg formula

Depends a lot on the individual dog and sometimes on the breed. In general terms an entire male will be more affected at times by 'sex hormones' - though generally you only really see this at its worst when there is an in season entire bitch around. Often the biggest difference (in general terms as there are ALWAYS exceptions) is that when a bitch is in season they can go a bit more nuts. Some boys will be impossible with the crying and going off their food etc. Some males, depending on breed, will not always get on well with other males. But then some on other breeds will live happily with other entire males (though most I know who do this wont have the boys together if they have a bitch in season around). As for pee smelling bad - I have never had that problem. I do think it can be affected quite a lot by diet. I haven't noticed any difference between entire or desexed males here (I have both).

Yep - no X-ray proof, no refund. They would be the terms I would be sticking to.

Put in a written complaint. Get the neighbour who witnessed it to also put one in (even if you write down the events and get him to sign it etc). They can not dismiss a complaint as easily if it is in writing as opposed to over the phone. Make sure you keep a copy and a good record of events/who you speak to etc. Edited to add: agree - Guy with GSD needs to be careful.

Thing is, PennHIP x-rays HAVE to be sent to the US for reading. NO VET IN AUST CAN READ PennHIP XRAYS!! They are only certified to take them, NOT read them. So vets taking then saying after looking at them themselves to get the procedure done are misusing the system and doing something they are not certified to do. I have heard of several cases of pups/young dogs being operated on or euthed without the so-called PennHIP x-rays ever being sent for analysis and scoring.

They won't as the ANKC regulations now specifically don't allow it:

So so sorry. This type of thing saddens, angers and greatly worries me. This is not the first example I have heard unfortunately. It is a growing trend . I will admit it has worried me so much that I have written an article specifically to include in puppy packs discussing the issue of 'over diagnosis' of joint problems and what they should do if faced with a vet who does this.

....... Ok well here you go. Just did a ref search and found this: http://jn.nutrition..../4/678.full.pdf Seems the bitches main time for needing carbs is just prior to and just after whelping. Which is when as I mentioned earlier they have a preference for eating liver and will eat the placenta - both higher in glycogen stores..... Also went back and read NRD to refresh my memory and itdoes specifically discuss the above study in relation to carb needs: NRD on Carbs To get back to the original topic of beet pulp and fibre, If you scroll down a bit in the above link to the NRD you will see info on fibre. Specifically it states that: "Fibre is not generally considered essential for simple-stomached mammals, including dogs, though inclusion of some fibre in the diet may be beneficial. Energy density of the diet is reduced by fibre, and therefore inclusion of some fibre in the diet may contribute to the maintenance of ideal body weight in adult sedentary dogs fed ad libitum......it should be recognised that the inclusion of large amounts of fibre in the diet may adversely affect nutrient availability." I would also note references to fibre slowing down transit of the GI tract - not always a good thing as it can increase opportunity for bad bacteria to have an effect on the system rather than allowing the body to quickly expel any bacterial overload. I would not necessarily feed a high fibre food to a dog with a depressed immune system or one with a history of 'gut sensitivity' for this reason.

The 'eating the preys stomach' thing is a bit of a perpetuated myth. Eminent wolf researcher David Mech has done a lot of work on wolf pack feeding habits for instance. While a single animal eating small prey like a rabbit may eat the stomach (which is pretty small so more trouble to remove than swallow), when eating large prey a pack will not eat stomach contents. They specifically avoid it and Mech is very clear on this fact. I have seen this for myself too working with a captive wolf pack. Hair/hide isnt always eaten either and a lot of the 'they need hair/feathers for fibre' thing has long been disproved as well. That is correct - it is seasonal (late summer mostly wheras pups are usually spring) and opportunistic. Most fruit in the wild isnt really like commercial fruit either. More like berries. Eating food like this is not 'energy efficient' for a canid so they don't go out of their way to do it. Just if it happens to be where they are and is 'easy pickins' (or they are an outcast and desperately hungry). They need to expend their energy catching prey that will sustain them and that is where their main focus is.

I could never work that one out either as a pregnant bitch in the wild is not going to get carbs and a lot of raw breeders have found their bitches don't need them. I did mention it above though as that is what they specifically state in NRD. I havent seen the studies first hand which show lactating bitches need it either, though I have seen the studies which show that dogs on a low to no carb diet have better energy and stamina and that energy intake is more efficient from protien/fat and from a low to no carb diet. (Edited to add a thought - the placenta contains carbohydrate (particularly glycogen). Not sure if there is any correlation here - noting that consuming the placenta is beneficial for the whelping bitch. This isn't going to help the bitch for the whole period of lactation though . While carbs are generally less that 1% in muscle meat, the liver also contains a slightly higher percentage of carbs. Many bitches have a preference for organ meats including liver leading up to whelping, though most do go back to more bones/muscle meat afterwards - had never thought of these occurrences in terms of carbs though - more in terms of calcium etc and how they assist in avoiding eclampsia) Sorry for getting so OT...

Horses are herbivores. You pay good money for Lucerne for horses too. Doesn't mean I would necessarily use it as a recommendation to feed it to a dog. The thing to remember about dry food is that it is not a natural food for dogs. It is forumlated to make it digestable and support the basic calorie and nutritional needs of dogs, but it is not a natural food for them and as such there are a lot of things in dry foods that are there to 'fix' the problems caused by feeding that type of food. 'Scientifically formulated' is correct - commercial dry foods are constructed in a lab. Fibre content is one of those things added to dry foods to 'fix' the issues of providing the food in a dry and denatured form. Also remember that as a commercial money making activity where cost to the consumer is being balanced against ingredients commercial dog food companies are forever doing scientific studies to find 'more economical replacements' which can deliver a similar nutritional profile to that required. For example, that tome 'the nutrient requirements of dogs' which puts together the known scientific 'wisdom' on feeding dogs for the benefit of commerical companies, states that carbohydrates are not required by dogs (except by lactating bitches), but that carbohydrates can be added to foods as they are 'economical' (tht's right - even the studies admit that best nutritional content isnt always the reason for adding something). Beet pulp too, as a byproduct of other processes, is an economical addition. Note that beet is used more extensively overseas than here for the production of sugar and as an animal feed for cattle etc. An interesting bit of history. The first commercially produced dog foods were the result of grain mills using their floor sweepings to create dog biscuits, thus 'value adding' to their production and profits.

Should have read further. That could work

This would be easier for some of the less numeric breeds, but may prove an interesting task for more popular breeds. Agree that the simplicity of the data may mean that the whole picture is not given. For example, what if a dog comes into rescue via whatever path and in rescue they identify who bred it and contact the breeder (who up to this point had no idea the dog was in need), the breeder (in another state) is very willing to take the dog back but rescue has a good home available, and through discussion with the breeder etc rescue places the dog in that home. In the stats this would show up as the rescue taking responsibility for the breeders dog and rehoming the dog. Add the gossip chain to that when it shows up in the stats and you have 'breeder didnt take responsibility for their dog'.

You should be able to do it. I would just play around and see. As far as I remember, the postal address bit for sending entries is separate.

Pacing can be cause by a variety of things. For example: Structure: Dogs with a squarer construction in particular may sometimes pace as the gait can be more comfortable for them - their hind leg is not passing/hitting the front leg with a pace as the legs on the same side move. Energy saving: Some breeds/dogs will pace at slow speeds in particular as it is an energy saving gait. For example my breed the Pyrenean is know for its energy saving pacing at slow speeds. Speed: if you are walking with the dog on lead and you are not going fast enough for them to trot comfortably, but too fast for a comfortable walk, they may learn to pace as an 'in between' gait. Injury: some dogs may find it easier to pace if they are injured in some way.