espinay2

When you see a Kom like this you know it has not lived like a traditional kom. One of the reasons the Kom did not last in Australia and why I did not pursue a breeding with one of the last viable koms is because the kom's coat is absolutely impractical for the Australian environment. The Koms who showed up to the Royal were actually real Koms. At least you knew they spent their days in a paddock, being a kom. The show kom cannot go outside.

Yes, ultimately the owner is responsible as their dog has somehow escaped. But it does seem they were doing their darndest to find it (calling the pound etc) and I agree the main issue here is the secrecy. I am guessing that if there was clear evidence the dog was acting aggressively and clearly understood the cause of death, the owner would at least understand. Without it, they can only go on what they know of their dog. Facts are, their dog escaped, the owner reported its escape to the pound, the dog had had capsicum spray used on it, the dog turned up dead in the pound the next day, no real explanation or information on the dogs death has been provided to the owner. Frankly I would be kicking up a stink too. I do understand Govt red tape, but if the dog really was acting as they say, then why not allow the information (autopsy, cctv footage, reports from rangers etc) to be released. By making things more difficult they are only making it appear they are at fault. They may not be, or they may be - at the moment there is no real way to know but the longer it goes on, the more it looks like a cover up IMO. Hopefully the owners get some answers soon. They must be devistated.

Like this? If so, not uncommon for this breed. Even this is hard to maintain. Thin narrow 'show coat' chords are massive work. Note that some other 'chorded' breeds do develop and are left in 'plates' and thicker chords too. The Bergamasco is one.

Note that not liking an unwashed dog in the ring is very much a cultural thing. Showing Pyreneans in France, if I were to rock up with a freshly washed and blowdried dog (especially to a Pyr specialist) I would be marked down as they would consider the coat too soft and too open (there would be a lot of stern looks, frowns and shaking of heads - yes I have seen this when overseas freshly groomed dogs have been shown in France ). They want to see good textured working coat. To show under a French Pyr specialist, while I would present my dog brushed (though many in France dont even do this) I would definitely not wash it for a few weeks before the show. Even a few weeks before and some judges may consider the dogs coat not 'natural' enough While I don't like an overly stinky dog either, not all (or even most) 'unwashed' dogs are stinky and I kinda like this honest approach. What you see is what you get and they are a working dog after all. Many dogs in France are pulled away from their flocks to go to the show and go back to work when the show is over (This years best of breed Pyr at the World Dog Show in Paris is a working flock guardian who does actually live in the Pyrenees Mountains). Komondor coats are not easy as the chords hold moisture - if they get damp they can take on a smell. Even some of the best groomed coats can take on an odour sometimes as a result. The US in particular do do things to the extreme and while being shown it is unlikely the dog would be allowed on any surface where it could get damp or dirty while it is being campaigned and kept in a 'show coat'. Too much work for me!

Yes used to be a breeder in SA but haven't heard of any Komondor for years. They are not the easiest breed. They are a livestock guardian and at the 'sharper' end of the scale. Very dominant and independently minded dogs on the whole (and can have issues with agression if not well managed). Definitiely not for anyone but a very experienced dog handler!

See the following: http://www.b-naturals.com/newsletter/pancreatitis/ http://www.petcarebooks.com/books/ddad.htm

Just to add. Beg, borrow or steal (ok, maybe not steal ) a copy of "Reaching for the Stars: Formerly Advanced Labrador Breeding" by Mary Roslin Williams. IMO EVERY breeder and potential breeder should read it - not just Lab folk, though for you it will provide lots of important info about the breed and being a breeder.

I started with a pet in my chosen breed. No intention of doing anything at that point except have a well mannered pet. I took her to obedience and became involved in the club. I met a lot of great people who became friends and many of them also showed their dogs. I started learning more about dogs in general and dog behaviour and became an obedience instructor. That dog taught me a lot about the breed - both the good and bad points. Invaluable information for a future breeder who needs to advise potential and new owners. At that point I decided I wanted to show and got another dog (a different breed to my first dog). In getting that dog I chose her as much for her breeder as for herself - I wanted a breeder who was close by and who could mentor me and healp me learn. That breeder turned into a good friend and mentor who taught me a lot. I showed that dog, made lots of mistakes, but had fun. And I learnt a lot. I did not breed her as I decided I did not want to breed that particular breed. Neverthe less, she was very important in my learning process and actually opened the doors to more breeders in my original breed just by getting me out and about. She also in that way led me to my next dog. My next dog opened even more doors and gave me even more contacts. I showed her and had fun with her. I learnt about the breed and made connections with other owners and breeders. I made friends and we talked a LOT about dogs. We exchanged ideas and taught each other. I met other people I consider to be my mentors. I did not breed that dog but she taught me a LOT about the breed and about what I wanted and didnt want in a breeding program. As her health testing showed up some issues I made the hard decision not to breed her. Being a 'breeder' is also about learning when not to breed. But she helped me learn a lot more and opened more doorways for me. As I have gone along I have made more and more connections here and overseas. I learn, I talk, I pour over pedigrees and information. I learn from every dog I own. It is all a learning process and it is something you never stop doing. In the end though it is all about attitude. If you are keen, you make the time and you don't begrudge that time to read and learn and put into your dogs. We all have busy lives and it is important that we maintain a balanced life, but breeding is a commitment to the breed - you really do need to have a 'passion' for it. It is also about learning to be objective when looking at dogs and to separate the 'this is my pet and the best dog in the world' from the 'this dog has X issue/fault/failing that I need to be aware of and consider in my breeding program' - no everyone can do that (my OH can't - he hates it when I 'criticise his dogs' ) but it is crucial for a good breeder to be able to look at the same dog in both these ways. As for showing, It is not 100% necessary though I would strongly recommend it for most people as it really is a way to open doors - many that are not even visible to those who don't. I really only personally know one person who hasn't really shown their dogs but who I would consider has a stellar breeding program. This person DOES attend breed specialties every year even without dogs, HAS fostered relationships with other breeders in his own breed and others, takes the time to 'talk dog' and learn, has been around dogs quite a long time before venturing into breeding and is knowledgable on behaviour and management, Is objective and has chosen breedings wisely - not afraid to look interstate or overseas for stud dogs. As a result he is respected by those who do show and they show this by allowing him to use their dogs (when many others don't get the chance) and also buying puppies he produces (which do go into the show ring). Not showing is NOT an easy route and does take just as much commitment, if not more if you plan to become a good breeder. So the conclusion to my ramblings in a nutshell? It is about getting out there, making connections, and learning, learning, learning. And in the beginning, finding a good mentor is something I would highly recommend.

Questions I would ask/research before making any decision: How did you learn of the issue? Factual accounts from the breeder or from the owners of the dogs or from 'general hearsay'? (remembering that while hearsay can sometimes have a grain of truth, it can also be simply grist for the rumor mill. It is an unfortunate truth that some like to talk about 'things they have heard' about other breeders lines though won't discuss their own issues) Is the problem showing up in young dogs or older ones? Is it a condition prevalent in the breed or one that is reasonably unknown? What affect does the condition have on the dogs overall health and wellbeing? What is the problem and how is it known to be caused? e.g. how is it passed on genetically (simple recessive? Polygenetic?) or what other influences are there on its cause and severity? (e.g. environmental factors) If there are environmental factors, are there any similarities in the environment of the affected dogs? If genetic, how is the condition identified? i.e. is there a DNA test available or other type of testing or nothing. If a test is available, were the sire and dam of each of the dogs tested, and what was the result? Were all the affected dogs from the same litter or the same pairing or the same sire or same dam or the same line or from different ones? i.e. is there a common factor in their pedigrees or not and what is that factor? On discussing the issue with the breeder, what have they done in relation to the condition? Having a number of dogs affected from one kennel does not necessarily mean ALL the dogs in a kennel will be affected. For example, they may not be using the dog or bitch now it is known as a carrier or the possible cause of the issue or may have ceased using a line that is known to be affected. It really isn't a simple question. If you liked the dogs and how they worked in this type of situation I would be discussing the issue with the breeder, doing my research and learning as much as possible about the condition and the liklihood of other dogs getting the condition before I ruled out ALL the dogs from a particular kennel.

I voted that I like dogs more than cats because my dogs are my passion. But I have always had cats around and couldn't imagine being without at least a couple of them! Our cats add an interesting counterpoint to the dogs. Just as full of personality and quirks. And in a way, the dog breed I have is reasonably 'cat like' in its tendency towards independance anyway .

Toys 1. Papillon 2. Cavalier King Charles Spaniel 3. Not sure. Probably Pug. Terriers (not really a terrier person) 1. Soft Coated Wheaten 2. Bull Terrier 3. Staffordshire Bull Terrier Gundogs 1. Irish Water Spaniel 2. Bracco Italiano 3. Italian Spinone Hounds (I have trouble choosing a shortlist in this group) 1. Irish Wolfhound 2. Saluki and Borzoi (equal second) 3. Bloodhound Working Dogs (another hard group to choose) 1. Polish Lowland Sheepdog 2. Maremma, Kuvasz & Komondor 2. Briard & Bergamasco Utility (I could choose lots here) 1. Pyrenean Mountain Dog (100% the ultimate number one of course ) 2. Leonberger (this is probably my closest to second overall) 3. Anatolian Shepherd dog and Bernese Mountain Dog Non Sporting 1. Dalmatian 2. Great Dane 3. Poodle (Toy)

Whoops!! Yes the above is me

Unfortunately no insurance company that I am aware of in Aust will insure a bitch in whelp. You can't get insurance for breeding related issues. As mentioned, the only option is to be prepared to fork out the funds if and when you need to. That is where your life savings, a credit card and a good long term relationship with your vet come in

Some breeds are bred to bark to do their jobs. Many Livestock Guardian breeds for example are bred to bark as a warning to predators that they are on duty. It is a trait that helps it do its job and is very typical of these types of breeds. This behaviour is perfectly normal and acceptable in a working or rural situation, but in a suburban situation is often 'misunderstood'. I have also found that in suburban situations where there is a lot more moving around 'out there' a LGD may bark a bit more than they would with a bit more space around them, because as far as they are concerned, there are a lot more 'potential predators' moving around their environment. Some dogs do bark more than others, and it can depend a lot on environmenal management, but I wouldn't 'mark down' an LGD because it barked a lot. I would be more likely to 'mark down' (from a potential breeding perspective) one that wasnt interested in barking and would be looking closer at its natural working ability (or possible lack of one). Other breeds are also known for their barking. The Pumi for instance specifically states in its breed standard that it is 'rather noisy'

YES YES YES !!!!! That is just what it means Tracy !! and I have just such a pup here now with brand new papers Linda This is such great news . Not having to discount out of hand dogs with titre originale dogs in their pedigree will be a real bonus and open up so many more opportunities! Wonderful that ANKC will now be recognising these pedigrees when they are already recognised by other bodies such as the FCI, AKC or UKC. :D

Does this mean dogs registered overseas who have titre originale dogs in their pedigree (eg 'mountain bred' or 'desert bred' where a sire/dam is unknown) and as a result don't necessarily have a complete 5 generation pedigree can be imported/used? The new rule does seem to make this possible!

"The Perfect Puppy' by Gwen Bailey is my recommentdation for new puppy owners

Premier and Lupine. My favourite brands for Martingale collars. I have had some of my Premier collars for around 15 years and they still look good. Lupine come with a lifetime guarantee even if chewed.

If barking is natural and shouldn't be restricted, then debarking is actually better for the dog than taking other measures to stop the dog barking, as a debarked dog can still bark as much as it wants. I have seen some very happy debarked dogs who during previous attempts to curb barking using other (supposedly 'more humane' methods) became incredibly stressed by not being allowed to bark. Once debarked and barking when they wanted they were happy dogs again.

Bumping is ok, but make sure you never drive a trailer through when you bump as you could be in a mess of trouble (yep...car one side and still connected and now damaged trailer on the other and stuck fast........ ). You also have to make sure you dont go too slow...or bump too hard

Bump gates are great as it means you dont have to get out of the car to open and close the gate. But frankly, the simple solution to your problem is to get out to open and close the gate (have a chain by the gate to temporarily put the dog on while you go through if necessary - and yes a martingale or slip collar used for this pupose will stop him pulling out of it). As someone who goes through two gates on our property to get to the road...and has to open and close both of them...yes it can be a drag sometimes but it doesnt take long or much effort and it really is that simple a solution. Is there a physical reason why no one is getting out of the car?

Never too late to teach an older dog. We had a 9yo dog come and live with us. He had never been in a house, let alone a crate. Now he sleeps in it with the door open and gets mighty put out if another dog decides to go sleep in 'his' crate .

Yes, a bit of a double standard for a vet to think it is cruel for a dog to be in a crate when I am betting he uses 'cages' (expensive stainless steel crates) to contain his patients! As you say, a crate trained dog will be LESS stressed by a vet stay as being crated will be nothing new to them. Upside down is a common position for them in the crates - even as adults!

I got my second choice of breed second instead of another one of my first (another tounge twister? ). There were lots of reasons why but the main one was I wanted a mentor and at the time I couldnt really find one in my first choice breed. My criteria for getting her was as much about what the breeder could offer as the breed. I loved my 'second choice' dog for all her thirteen years and through her, as a result of her wonderful breeder who became a friend, I learnt so much more than I likely would have if I had just stuck to my first choice. Getting my 'second choice' dog also helped me move forward with my first choice breed too through what I learnt and who I met by owning her and knowing her breeder. I will admit that I will likely never own one of my 'second choice' breed again as my first choice is just so much better suited to me, but I never ever regret owning her and I owe her a lot. I likely would have got one of that breed at some point any way as It was one of those breeds I always wanted to own! No one but you will be able to tell you if getting your 'second choice' dog is the right decision in your circumstances. All I can tell you is for me, it was the right decision.

Basically, it is their 'den' or 'safe haven' - the same way we have a bedroom. I will admit I have never had anyone say anything negative about my dogs being in crates. We have several set up permanently in the family room and the dogs go in and sleep in them with the doors open of their own accord. I can close the door when feeding them separately, or when I need to protect them from visitors (yes, rather than the other way around, sometimes the dogs need somewhere they can relax away from harassing kids!!) As some have mentioned too, they tend to relax a lot more in crates when we are out than when on a lead/tethered so it helps them have 'down time' .