Nekhbet

if the dog is not barking and a complaint is lodged then that is simply harrasment. Speak to your council, make them see you are not an antagonist. Ask them to help you with the problem dog (if it is indeed a problem barker), or show you are making an effort through letters and vet visits etc and they wont take too drastic action against you. Maybe set up a video camera to show the dogs behaviour to the council. If a complaint is made then you have evidence of how rowdy the dog actually is. Yes people, we have become prisoners to the stupid people in society. On the other topic -> I just got a 7 level anti-barking collar (after all the mess and fuss) from Innotek and its working. We've gone down from continuous barking to occasional woofs when somethings really is wrong. I didnt like the idea originally but it was the only option left for us. She was loving the sound of her own voice and from 5am onwards the undesexed male terriers next door would antagonise her into playing 'who can bark louder' competition all day. Plus I work a rotating roster so I got no sleep at all. She hasnt shown signs of physical damage or distress from the collar, she's still a happy girl and doesnt mind its own. I also havnt seen any pain caused by the shock when she barks. The first time, she woofed and then stopped with a puzzled look on her face, tried woof again and same look. She occasionaly forgets its there, has a woof and immediately stops. Now when she desperately wants attention she whispers her woof at me and shakes her paw in a high 5, rather funny. I can hardly wait to toss it in the bin but i'll sing its praises for now as I would never ever de-bark her.

George, remember that yes you will be addressing obesity, poor quality food, grain etc but where is this directly linked to fresh meat? As with our own diets, many people switch to vegetarianism because they think it is the only lower their cholesterol, make them overall healthier etc. Everything in large quantities is bad, there is not one thing you can point to to say its the ultimate sin. Trimmed meat, especially kangaroo, is low in fat and high in iron. If you want to be a breeder you need to investigate feeding of a pregnant bitch and puppies, vegetarian diet could be dangerous. Iron is hard to get in vegetables and bloat is a big risk in German shepherds and other large breeds if you are going to feed them huge quantities of broccoli, brussel sprouts etc. Dogs cant eat ALL types of vegetables too so the diet will be limited. Remember there are some amino acids that are from animal sources only and some cholesterol is required for cholesterol based hormones (Testosterone is basicly made from cholesterol) Dogs also require fatty acids for skin and coat health. And what will you give your dogs to chew for clean teeth? (I had a man with two vegetarian chihuhuas say 'sticks?') Cooking also destroys many of the vitamins but the dogs will not be able to process uncooked foods like we can, so powders, drops, tablets etc will have to be added. I sound like a nag but I did Vet Science and Biochem at uni As for the ethics, remember they are your ethics, not the dogs. OK I know you'll get upset by that and I dont mean to insult you in any way (I understand, I have a vegetarian bf) but why put your dog through the dietary risks and yourself through the torture of complicated diets because you dont agree that an animal purposely bred for consumption is then utilised for it. Your dog IS at least in part a carnivorous animal. Yes vegetable matter is required for optimal health, but isnt a more natural alternative some fresh diced meat instead of highly processed vege protein, with added powders and bottled oils? Might as well feed it stuff from the bag...

Debarking is the surgical destruction o the vocal folds of the larynx causing the dog to bark with a reduced volume. It is commonly performed in highly populated areas or in response to complaints from neighbours about the dog barking. Some breeds bark more than others so some breeders will routinely debark puppies prior to sale in the urban area. Obviously, the procedure is always performed under anaesthetic. (RSPCA WEBSITE) Not the best source but what can we do. Complications can arise from improper healing of the throat (coughing, wheezing, choking, not being able to eat etc) or unexperienced vets doing a poor job. The anesthetic is risky too, many dogs can stop breathing or their heart can stop, but as with most surgeries. I've seen electronic and citronella collars sold at my local pet supplies. The shop people had no clue about which to use and when, but they were more then willing to get at least $300 out of me (Scary these people run a puppy preschool) I inquired them for electric with remote and they looked at me like I had told them the sky was purple and it rained chickens. I dont think theyre for everyone, especially lazy people. I also think the dog has to have the 'mental strength' (if you get what I mean ) and the owner has to put in the time to show the dog the barking is causing the punishment. With all those different council charges you'd think they would make sure that a nusience dog went for regular behaviour check ups from the person that prescribed the anti barking collar... aaah thats right I live in a perfect world ;)

fat off meat? pork??? dont tell my mina that?! I buy her a whole pigs head from the victoria market for $2 and it lasts her days!! I suppose keep the fat in moderation or it can cause an upset tum as its hard to digest raw ... and in the long term it has bad effects on their kidneys, pancreas, liver etc But I still throw mine the odd scrap a couple of times a week. Pork seems to be bad because of its high fat content, quickly going rancid and risk of parasites (hopefully the human grade I buy isnt that bad) and bacon/ham has too much salt and preservatives. Susceptable breeds = bloat. ASPCA Says organ meat can be bad, but I havnt found harm in any of my dogs for the ox heart, or a little bit of liver thrown into the raw mix. Also say all bones are bad but I have never seen an uncut cow leg bone splinter into pieces like chicken. What about whole rabbits? As for apple seeds they contain arsenic. If they swallow one or two its not going to be an issue. It takes 250ml cup of pure apple seeds eaten in one go to kill a human (someone actually tried it) The kernals of stone fruit are similar, although my grandparents jack russel x manages to munch his way through a handful whilst in the orchard. Nothin wrong there but I wouldnt risk it. From what I can find on avocados, it seems to be the rest of the plant (especially the leaves and bark) that are the problem. Skin and stone can be toxic too. It seems the flesh can contain some risk if its not left to ripen on the tree, I've found sites that say over ripe flesh is OK (you know too mushy) and others that are hardcore against it. Up to you on that one. Garlic in small doses (I throw 4 minced cloves into about 4-5 litres doggy stew I make) I assume it could have a bloating effect, or even cause heartburn. Onions are a definate no no, even onion powder (check lists of ingredients, onion powder is in bbq seasoning too) Pizza is bad because some of the base sauce can contain minced onion. That and the dough can cause bloat. http://www.paw-rescue.org/PAW/PETTIPS/DogT...tchenSafety.php this one seems pretty complete but I think some things are going over the top. Yes I know dogs are becoming more sensitive to things because of human modification (additives, pesticides, plant varieties etc) but there are some things that we could be too worried about. Some things need to be eaten in really large quantities to do any harm. http://www.lowchensaustralia.com/health/pplants.htm this one has a complete list of plants and some links too

hey lobo I agree switching to a less refined diet helps with skin problems. the natural fats and oils in the meat helps with skin dryness and since there is no additives there is less chance for allergies (unless were talking about plants ) we used Malaseb on mums pomeranian who had horrible itchy skin and it really did the trick, but it did require fairly regular use. Definately worth the money Chamomile tea cooled down and poured over the dog as a rinse can calm itchy skin, especially if you're not in the mood to give the dog a good wash. It can also sooth hot skin and has some antibacterial properties (well thats the old wives tale behind it) my baba used it on our pets when we were young, especially as a weakly made weepy eye rinse and on scratches because it didnt dry the wound too quickly. Of course it could just be the rinsing but hey, we didnt have too many puss-y pets running about :D

thanks catzatsea. Yeah I do know only the truely professional (or the truely mad) have attempted the roll on overly aggressive adult dog. On a working line or highly dominant dog it would only result in a physical fight between the trainer and the dog. I once saw a video of an american police officer who tried to roll an aggressive adult male german shepherd ... and he lost big time although I've never seen anyone sit on the dog?! Like I said I only did it on puppies that just did not understand when no meant no and the owners were at their wits end (i did puppy preschool and difficult dogs) and at this age i wouldnt think that a pup would cause a huge amount of damage when having a tantrum (I also have a rescue ferret so I appreciate the skin saving quality of a glove hehe). I'd love to see what other people think about gentle alpha rolls on puppies. I'm only spouting things I've been taught so I'm open to learn alternative methods people have on dealing with these situations (PMs good for me) let me pick your brains!!! Thanks heaps

rolling the pup onto its back is simply mimicking canine behaviour. I was taught this method by trainers who used it to get a over zealous or headstrong breed pups to stop biting. I'm not suggesting one gets into a full on brawl with the puppy, thats counterproductive, and in no way am I condoning violence or mistreatment. I just found this method was a good basis to, excuse the pun, nip the nipping in the bud especially for people who became terrorised by their pups biting them and who refused to play with it. (i just suggested because you said it was getting out of hand, hope i didnt offend anyone) I agree with showdog, you definately need to set the boundaries now and your level of behaviour modification will depend on the severity. Has he broken the skin, chewing on your hand (shoudlnt have your hand there that long any way) Teach the pup sit. Easy enough. When he starts getting out of control stand up, cross your arms and say 'NO ... sit' not waving your hands so the pup focuses on your face. When the pup is calm resume the game. If he barks at you then look up at the ceiling and slowly walk away. This says to the pup 'i'm your boss and I dont like your behaviour so i'm going to ignore you' pay attention when he settles or even sits. chicken necks are great for teething, especially half frozen ones

aahhhhhh more details ... gotcha! I thought he was much younger! sorry! But I do agree, if theres no descended testes then adolescence isnt really gonna be the problem. heirachy between dogs and how they get on with you are not related. I have seen perfectly obedient dogs that will run out and have a go at another canine that approaches. dominance doesnt necessarily mean the dog goes berzerk (eg two dogs look at each other an one looks away immediately, having accepted the dominance of the staring canine. As a human you could miss this dominance challenge completely!). Dogs have a complex body language system. Ignoring your requests and pulling means he is trying to push the boudary of him being on the bottom rung of the family ladder (ie asserting dominance) you yourself show dominance to him when you use a firmer voice. The choker was a suggestion because it was invented as a physical tool, as dogs are wired for physical commands more then vocal (not saying you smack or hurt your dog in any way!!) But its up to you. I'd still recommend teaching him to look every time you say his name. Absolute gold that trick! If he was a rescue then his humping is the only way the poor thing understands to try and test where he stands on another dogs social ladder, especially now he's going to begin the coming of hormonal age. He's using a dominant behaviour (the humping) to test the water you could say. You would see better socialised dogs sniff other dogs noses and stand upright (for dominant dogs) and more submissive dogs hunch, or wag low when approaching another. Try teaching him to sit and stay sitting when other dogs approach to help his understanding of behaviour. And humping definately IS a dominant behaviour. My dog tried it to my family and some other dogs a few times when she was about 6-8 moths old ... but she's an undesexed bitch! Conversely it could be a stress related reaction, he is confused because he doesnt understand the body language so does the only thing he knows to show them how he feels. Its sorta the chicken way of showing dominance because it keeps the humper a fair way away from a set of sharp teeth if the receiver decides to retaliate!

. a yelp can sometimes make it worst because they can see it as an encouragement to play. give him attention only when he behaves. Poodles are fairly head strong so make a 'naughty' area if he really gets hyper (those large mesh pet cages are good) and leave him for 5 minutes. just water. When he barks and bites roll him on his back and give him a little shake and say 'no' loudly. This is how dogs show others they are the boss. Wear a leather glove if you mind being bitten but hold him down until he stops being nippy and fussing (not too hard of course) He's showing that hes the boss of you and barking at you is like saying 'no bugger you i'll do what I like' 100% will not terrorise or emotionally scar the puppy in any way, promise!! works great with jack russels too. Make sure when he quietens down to calmly stroke him and praise him softly to show its good to be calm. good luck! Jules

Sexual urges should not really be hitting a pup this young (under 6 months? eek) I think he's using it as a dominance thing (why dogs hump each other and peoples legs ... he's asserting dominance) and thats backed up by the fact he is not listening to you. Just remember he's made up of dog breeds that are bred to show dominance (cows and sheep) but since theyre not there he's gonna try it on you. Does he roll other puppies or dogs onto theyre backs? does he nip? does he bark or yap at you when you try to make him do a command ? Definately enrol in obedience and make obedience an all day routine. Show him that he has no choice but to liten to mum (always make sure he sits before eating, carry treats everywhere and make him work for them) with the pulling get a choker chain. Dont strangle the dog but give him a little sharp tup (gently at first) the noise can be enough to make them think about it. give him trial runs in the back yard and when he behaves start on your street and then move further out for walks. He has no excuse to sniff around in the backyard so he has to give you his full attention. Say his name and everytime he looks at you reward him, even just around the house. It will soon teach him to pay attention . happy puppying! As for the vet, if after 4 weeks he gets worst or is continuing, just tell them he is showing signs of dominance that could lead to aggression and you would like to have him desexed now. A vet can refuse but there is no irreversible harm done to a pup to be desexed earlier.The reason is to allow some testosterone a good amount of time to go through the pup and start the body showing more 'male' traits (he'll start raising leg etc)