Nekhbet

could be genetic... some breeds have malocclusion in their line (where the teeth dont sit properly) try ringing Melbourne University vet hospital and they will be able to give you specialists numbers and referrals

If you take him to parks etc get yourself a horse lunging lead from a horse store. Theyre around $20 and he can have some distance yet still be attached. Plus its stronger then those retractable things (ugh) call him and tug the lead so he knows he's being called then reel him in hehe btw has he been tested for deafness? apart from the case of selective hearing he has of course :rolleyes:

just remember if he is old and already a little on the tubby side dont start buying high fat/refined products. You may be teaching him that mum is the proverbial Pez dispenser, and if you remove the food he may start slipping. And be careful of falling into the trap that he comes up to you and behaves for treat ... thats training mum! :rolleyes: wean him onto human attention, start cutting back the treats and replace them with extra smoochy love. Treats are not to be expected but an added 'bonus' if you get my drift Poor pooch probably didnt get a lot of attention in his old life so he may not be used to it, he's soooooooo cute !!! :p I'd get him off the bed and onto his own little bed on the floor/basket. Letting him sleep on you is showing him he's still on your level and being a hound he'll treat you as a pack mate not as authority all the time. Maybe feed him after you have finished your dinner too. Also, randomly walk up to him while he's around, give him a pat and a cuddle and then leave him. Start getting him used to your terms, and I'd keep him on a lead until his recall his better or he's learning to ignore you.

I used malaseb on my GSD but with a thick coat and constant washing became counterproductive becuase i could never get her coat completely dry at the skin level. At the beginning of summer ... Bzzzzzzzzzz ... instant lion I shaved her coat to about an inch long (except for legs and from the collar up) and BOY was she happy. Made it easier to treat the condition and get enough oxygen to the skin to keep it dry. Didnt need to bath as often as well :rolleyes: though we couldnt show her and she was getting on so we werent really fussed about how she looked as long as she was comfy

If anyone needs information about a product or ingredient then doing a search for an MSDS is the way to go (Material Safety Data Sheet) they exist for all chemicals. Actually good things to have, especially in the laundry and garage. just type the name of the product/chemical (as on the packet) + MSDS if you are using google (australia only search) THIS is an online MSDS website, mainly for active ingredients then products. Companies (such as Caltex, Yates, Orix etc) should provide MSDS for their products on their websites. If you're really lost email workcover (www.workcover.vic.gov.au) hope this helps Jules ETA: if you work in a place with chemicals, including disinfectants and cleaners (includes vet clinics) MSDS must be supplied near them at all times and updated regularly. If you dont PRINT THEM OFF AND STICK THEM UP!! sorry I'm just a stickler for workplace safety :D

I dont understand... take dog to vet or dog slowly dies from having its insides turn to a bloody pulp Not really something to think about ... BTW allowing an animal to die a painful death while they stand by is a criminal offence if they are reported to the RSPCA. They are responsible for preventing animal suffering and any vet worth their weight will give the treatment and allow you to pay it off if you dont have the money. An animals life comes first. Poodlefan there is no cyanide in Ratsak it is not allowed by law. Cyanide poisoning results in an animal suffocating as it cant transport oxygen around the body anymore. The main ingredient in Ratsak is Brodifacoum which works a bit like Warfarin (prevents prothrombin synthesis ie: no coagulation) the MSDS is HERE

he has no problem with mixed breed puppies being sold in petstores, he even gives them a 'certificate' about their behaviour at the age of 9 weeks. Dont want to touch him with a 10 foot pole if thats his mentality

allowing the dog on the bed and sofa is allowing the dog to be on teh same level as you. In the dog world, dogs of equal or similar ranking will sleep/share a bed. A true boss dog will however snap and push others away because it is THEIR space and since they are the boss its not for the minions to share. Its the way dogs work. Your dog should only come up when invited, and then off again when you've finished. The point here is INVITED. It is done on your terms. Pats, treats, attention, food, everything when YOU decide not when the dog wants. And if it carries on like a pork chop, well ignore and walk off, or put into time out. My dog does NOT come on furniture or bed, not even in the bedroom. She only comes in the house invited as well. She has the capability to become VERY dominant and may start showing aggression if I let her do what she wants. She knows what she can get away with and will test me daily (she's been living up to the bitch part really well this week hehehe) You have done the right thing by desexing for sure, you dont need a randy male that gets upset over a bitch in heat. Classes can do so much, it has to be you that changes the behaviour before your dog will change. Yes you can pat your dog, but when he behaves, If he starts sooking, nudging, nipping, scratching or anything to get your attention - no pat. Sit and be a quiet boy - get a pat. He'll get it just be patient. These dogs can get worst before they get better because theyre being shaken from their 'pedestal', but you are doing the right thing by finally teaching your dog manners.

For your behaviourist, if after 6 months you are having little success with problems that are basic (puppy biting is a basic problem) then ditch her. How long are you going to have to wait? Go for a trainer, not neccessarily a behaviourist. There can be huge differences between the two. I didnt mean to say you guys have been lazy. Unfortunately you got the short end of the stick help wise :rolleyes: buggar. Actually a spray bottle may be the way to go. If he tries to bite/jump you, squirt him in the face and say NO loudly... worth a try ... and their only about $2 from bunnings. Put it on the thin stream not the mist setting. Dont try and keep obedience at set times or periods. Obedience is a 24/7 thing for your dog. You are not teaching him tricks, obedience teaches him manners. Yes formal sessions are good for formal fine tuning but every time you interact with the dog he should be expected to behave. Try creating a 'time out' area. Maybe a corner of the backyard with a couple of meters of tether (never his crate) and if he gets really bad clip him there and ignore him for a half hour. Then make him sit, treat him and let him off for a play to show him you forgive him. If he gets too rough again ... back in time out Some basic rules - Always sits before eating and can be told to 'leave it' and eat on command. Dont let him stare at you when you eat - Never enter a doorway/gate before you and doesn't push you out of the way to get through. He walks next to you/behind never in front - Does not push or bump you with his face for attention. Doesnt force toys into you - Does not get up onto furniture. If he does, then straight outside, quietly and calmly for a time out. - Even when he behaves without you asking him to, give hime rewards and praise, eg: come up to you and sits down, give him a treat and a calm pat. This way theres an incentive for him to behave without you having to ask him. Dont be afraid to keep him hungry. If he's not going for a food stuffed Kong then starve him or skip a meal to force his interest in the Kong. Wont kill him or hurt him in any way. Remember a hungry dog is more willing to listen to you to get the reward - snack or dinner.

This dig has now become the boss of you and your parents. Instead of fixing it he's now stuck in the backyard alone and is ignored for his pleas for attention. Dont get caught in the cycle of 'oh its puppy/lab behaviour he'll grow out of it' ... uh uh... Your dog is not too destructive. He's just very disobedient. Since you're in Sydney try K9 force. Because they deal in protection animals they'd probably be better at spotting genuine aggression in your dog. If this is out of the league of your behaviourist ... get rid of her! Psychiatrist pffft. For destructiveness: make him a sandpit, get him some food based toys (like Kongs/Buster Ball) and dont feed him breakfast, just give him the toy. They love food so he'll stay busy. Also, start buying him big meaty bones to keep him occupied. This dog should know basic commands such as heel, sit, drop, stay, leave it by now so invest time in obedience more then walks every evening. Finish with a good play session of fetch. Aggression? Yup you bet. He's at the age where hormones are going to make him challenge authority and you guys are letting him walk all over you. Unfortunately what you see now is what happens when you dont nip things at the bud early. Now you're going to cop it more becuase he sees you as lower in the family pecking order then your dad! Read THIS as a basic. It can sound harsh but it is for overly aggressive dogs as well so glean from it what you need. If you need any more help just post your q's or PM me J

he's probably talking about preservatives and the fat content of the meat. Butchers tend to use the fattier offcuts and parts to make the mince (thats why when you fry it you end up with so much less then when you started with) Simply ask your butcher what exactly is the fat content (%) and if they add any artificial preservatives. Maybe go for chicken necks instead. It will help keep the pups teeth clean and also get it into the habit of munching on bones and natural chew things. Cheaper too! Freeze a couple at a time in freezer bags and defrost when you need them.

dont trust a groomer, take the dog to a vet if its having anal gland problems. This way you will be able to work on a more pro-active solution then constant manual draining. Is it just me? Of all the dogs and breeds my family has had we've never had to take a dog regularly for squeezing or do it ourselves. Maybe we're just lucky. Its a stinky job though bleh

hey sas definately go the basket/wire muzzle. I dont like those nylon/wrap around muzzle, I dont feel comfortable haing them on my dog, and the only thing I can see it doing would be to cause more anxiety in the dog. Plus, whats to say when you take the muzzle off he wont start again? Wire muzzles are suprisingly light and the dog soon learns to forget it's there. Plus you can feed the dog through the wires. Not to sounds condescending but are you training him when he's really hungry? I mean reeeeeally hungry. You'd be suprised how much a dog will listen when he's starving and you're holding something like bits of hot dog/fresh meat. Fresh treats work best. http://www.leerburg.com/708.htm - has different types (plastic too) Really, let people think what they want. You have to put your dogs interest first not other peoples opinions. Explain that the muzzle is there because he is a new dog and you are just being responsible. With this muzzle you can start letting him approach other dogs and begin socialising him without him feeling out of control with his mouth taped shut. If he snaps, bites etc he cant hurt the other dog and they cant bite him either.

Hey Becky what breeds of dog are you looking at at the moment? This choice could be one of the most important if you are getting a dog that will live in an appartment. You dont want to get a highly active breed (which will lead to destructive/noisy behaviour) Not to be nosy but are you at home all day or working? Live alone? kids? give us some details and we can help you with the choice. Have heard greyhounds are good pets, not as active as they seem and are great to have indoors. If you get a rescue, get one that has been used to indoor living, single dog living. These have learned to look after themselves somewhat when it comes to self-entertainment. Heaps of toys, food toys (give a smaller breakfast or none at all and then let the dog pick at a stuffed kong) and obedience training are required to keep your dog happy. I use an electronic collar on my dog to stop barking. She's a high drive working breed though, and now knows to bark when there's a threat, not just for the sake of it. Bree has a point. The collars simply mask the symptoms. The dog wont bark if it gets a zap or a spritz on stinky stuff in its face. You are not correcting the actual boredom and this can be transferred to other behaviours like chewing, digging etc. Plus if you want to keep the dog crated for 8-9 hrs a day so it stops those habits too you're better off with a cat, ferret or rat. (Even a parrot. How about lizards? Beardies make awesome pets. Cheap to feed to) I'm just not a fan of crating dogs. Pen/run yes but a cage doesnt appeal to me.

better to see the vet. Paralysis is not common but I saw a case in Ballarat when I worked at the clinic there. Suprise to everyone. Infections can set if from the entry point so maybe a dose of antibiotics just in case. Sometimes it can take a few days for the symptoms to start and then it can just hit. I'd rather pay $50 now then $500 later.

why dont you like feeding them raw meat? If i cut raw out of Minas diet she'd go on strike again. Why dont you give them a raw chicken neck or wing each? Yes little dogs can be bad with their teeth because of the misconception that they need soft foods. Dog has teeth. Teeth need cleaning. Kibble will not do it for you. Also raw meat needs a little more chewing then cooked, may keep them busier a little longer Actually one pet store told me that cooked meat is dangerous to dogs as they cant digest it properly lmao Garlic? what do you have against garlic? (you have a wog in a panic here ... I cant live without garlic) every dog I have had has had garlic in their food. Every one was healthy as a horse (My GSD lived till 13 and only had to go to the vet majorly once for pyemetron at about 9yo) I saute it lightly and chuck it in with the rice/veges mix. Parsley too. If you give rice why are you throwing in potato too? I go with corn, peas, carrot, sweet potato, pumpkin, celery, mixed with the rice. In appropriate amounts. And mine has been taught to munch raw carrots to give her some extra fiber (she does it begrudgingly... such a princess :D ) Plus she gets snackies, shes a chippy fiend, even salt and vinegar. Its a very occasional treat but its virtually the only 'other' food she will eat. Everything else gets tossed about and shredded :D

gave the dog a whole pigs head once... hacked off the ears and the fatty bits (they went to the next doors little piranhas) and she got the rest. After talking to it for a while she spent nearly 4 days munching on it. She gnawed it all the way to bare bone, not a shred of meat left! boy was she quiet the whole time hehe Mind you my vegetarian bf walked into the back yard when I first bought it and all I hear is "AHHHHH why is there a HEAD IN THE BACKYARD"

I have never truseted chicken carcasses or pet mince with bones in it. I mean we tell people not to feed small splintery bones and then we give the dog mince with shredded bone?! Maybe its my distrust in people, I have bought pet mince in the past with some serious looking splinters in it. I go to the butcher, get some human quality stewing steak/osso bucco and chop that up. Preservative free too and I know whats in it. Found a great bulk butcher in Nth Laverton (Melb people PM me if you're interested in butcher/poultry) and I just hacked up a 2.2kg slab of yearling. Cost me $14 for it and should last her 5-6 days after I mix it with rice+veges and give her bones. I dont like them adding offal to mince either because it goes off VERY quickly and spoils meat. She gets it on the day, chopped up and added in (chicken giblets and livers) I add a Canine nutritional powder to the mix: yeast, kelp, lecithin, calcium carbonate, garlic powder, parsley, sodium ascorbate or when I got desperate used the repti-cal hehe One butcher asked me what I was going to cook with 2kg of steak, and when I told him it was for the dog he nearly keeled over! Is it just me or am I being an overly doting mummy? I just cant find good quality pet mince, I wont buy pre-packeaged which has preservatives and I'd rather get human grade and chop it up so I know what additives are put into the mix. here lives a pampered pooch hehe

Hey BM luckily we never had parvo in any of our dogs but I worked at a vets clinic and say many cases. One breeder was a yearly regular, no matter how much she bleached her kennels, she would bring in young pups with parvo. about the blankets and bedding throw it out. No amount of bleaching will guarentee it becuase it can get deep into the fibres. Throw it in a plastic bag, tie it up and chuck it in someone elses bin who has no dogs or take it straight to the tip. There are 2 viruses that contribute to Parvo not just one. As with the suggestion of ripping up carpets etc: remember you had a dog that carried a high viral load. It was constantly shedding the virus in large concentrations all over the house (not just like a near negligible amount from walking in the park) That is why they took extreme measures. For your home get a carpet company that steam cleans/washes the carpet right through to the bottom layer. No good washing the top pile the stuff soaks right through. Get yourself a hospital grade BROADSPECTRUM + ANTIVIRAL disinfectant. Try searching online ar call the local hospital and ask what they use. Its usually not as corrosive as bleach. Spray the furniture with a dulite solution, along with any clothing that was in direct contact with the dog. Air out the house and let in a good amount of sunlight, and get the carpet cleaners to add some disinfectant to their cleaning solution so your carpet is sanitised. As for outside, one website I found said to rinse poo areas with water to try and dilute it out (personally i'd grab the disinfectant and hose the yard with it) Outdoor decontamination: Freezing is completely protective to the virus. If the outdoors is contaminated and is frozen, one must wait for it to thaw out before safely introducing a new puppy. Shaded areas should be considered contaminated for seven months. Areas with good sunlight exposure should be considered contaminated for five months. Maybe worry more that if this sick dog comes back home and is still weak from the infection he could get it again? Remember: parvo is a protein coat virus - heat, UV and protein corroding chemicals (such as bleach) are your ticket to success in eliminating it. ETA: SynPhenol-3 is apparently a good product for Parvo, Benzethonium chloride too. Look for products with 'chloride' http://www.bacto.com.au/disinfectants.htm Cavicide would be good

I had that same problem a couple of months ago ... my dog had taken a chunk out of her pad, bleeding everywhere I put a wad of papertowel over it (after I rinsed it with cold salty water. The cold constricts the blood vessels and the salt will help dry and seal the wound) and then masking and packing tape. It was the ONLY way she wouldnt rip it off over night. Since the tape stuck it wouldnt slip down and I taped it into the 'standing' shape so she could walk around. I had to keep her confined for the first 24 hrs, and the next day I changed the bandage. Of course the morning after the bandage change I woke up to find a dog covered in little pieces of masking tape stuck all over her like snow She was ok, even the vet said. Bandage was impossible bos she keeps tearing it off. Since it was dry, I just kept her inside for another day and then it was ok. of course I shoudl be getting me some spray. Silly billy does it often enough to warrant it

Hmmm Maybe it was the fattyness that causes upsets. Marrow is packed full of fat especially in food quality animals so it probably is too rich for a pup. I still dont understand why people cut them in half, I like to make Mina work for her snack. Keeps her quiet all night and keeps her chewing longer, plus i'm worried about splinters of bone in her gums (some butchers dont do a very good job). Mina gets bones every day - lamb flaps, marrow bones, necks, roo tails No problems. If you can get big beef ribs/spine and lamb necks. Less fat. I find chicken necks get swallowed instead of chewed but mine practically swallows anything smaller then her head

Um after reading the ingredients I dont think Mina will be getting any: Processed wheat gluten, glycerin, natural flavor, powdered cellulose fiber, monosodium phosphate, monoglycerides of edible fatty acids, magnesium stearate and chlorophyll. No artificial coloring added. No preservatives, and no plastics or other inert ingredients. Product appearance and color may vary due to natural ingredients. All ingredients are used in human food product take a look at the developers http://www.greenies.com/html/developers/develop.html hmmm why dont a see a veterinarian in there? Gluten, glycerin and cellulose? who the heck came up with that as being nutritional?!?!? I can only see that as the quickest was to get intestinal cramps and sloppy poo ... make sure heaps of water is available if your dog eats this so they dont become dehydrated i'd say what is wrong with a good old bone I ask you?

GMD you wanted ADVICE and you go it, just because it doesnt agree with your opinion on the topic doesnt mean it is something to be dismissed, especially since you profess you dont know what you are talking about. OK so some people think its neglectful. Thats just and opinion posted, I dont see people picketing your house in the wee hours of the morning screaming you neglect your dog, do you? Why dont you grab a few 1000+ page nutrition and veterinary health books and start reading. Some people who HAVE done this are givin you advice so dont be quick to dismiss it because you choose to be against meat farming. Sometimes we have to bite the bullet for the sake of the greater good. and a question. If a cow (a human created domestic species) didnt spend its life roaming hundreds of acres of grassland on a farm, where exactly woud it be? hmmm unfenced grassland, maybe riddled with ticks, worms and hunted by predators? I dont like animal cruelty but I have come to terms with the food chain long ago. If you really want to know what your dog wants put a plate of cooked veges and a plate of fresh mince with some boiled rice and chopped veges, maybe a little fish sauce. THAT is giving the dog a choice, not just plonking 1 bowl down and seeing if the dog eats it because its hungry.

hey muttlover yeah there are some brands of importable dog collars that are too strong for a horse let alone a dog. Did you friend buy a working level collar? I heard German made are the strongest as they are made for those hard-a$$ shutzhund/KNVP level dogs that cant be controlled by any other means. I heard a story about some police officer in america who put shock collars on his unruly sons ... and wondered why he was charged with cruelty ... duh OK They are not for you if you can find another way to stop barking (you lucky thing you) but please dont be so quick to dismiss a product that has stopped many a dog ending up in the pound as a nusience animal. Yes, some are unsuitable for the average pup but there are some collars that are relatively mild (I tried the innotek one on my arm with the mobile on vibrate to set it off. Level 2 was just a buzz really no pain) Like check chains and other paraphanalia they are simply a tool, not to be left on 24/7 to zap the poor dog into submission (I think your friend grossly misused the collar if the dog now has social problems)

Just remember for cats: They require a source of Taurine and the mineral balance has to be monitored for kidney health. I havent seen a recomendation anywhere for cat vegetarian diets as they do require a predominantly meat diet, i think these diets have been considered dangerous to a cats heart. This goes for ferrets too, actually the higher the protein the better. Rats do well on vege (theyre omnivores too) but TVP and tofu for them is a good idea too for muscles and coat.