Nekhbet

go for it! also have a look at K9 Force Training in Drive and Triangle of Temptation. if the dog has serious issues with other dogs she also should seek the help of a qualified trainer who has dealt with aggression before. Its really something that needs evaluation as well. If its through fear, defence, true aggression etc they all need slightly different methods (thats in dailiy life not just around other dogs) to really work. Tell her to avoid people like BarkBusters and go for someone qualified in handling these dogs. Go to a training session and see how they work, it should not involve physical punishment (maybe a prong/check collar and muzzles if required for safety) but no rolling, hitting, or harsh jerking of the animal. I train with people who help aggressive dogs and you would be suprised how shifting of focus and increasing the owners control level in drive can really change a dog in a short amount if time without resorting to a physical fight or the owner having to yank the dogs head off. Sibe I hope the leerburg website works for you and good to hear you are getting control!

Try doing false come homes ... go outside for about 15 minutes, and as soon as you walk in the door, see how they behave. If they wait nicely praise them if they misbehave walk straight back outside and dont come back till they behave. See if they get the idea that just because you walk in the door doesnt mean they can go bananas

teething and hormones make them flop ... never had a problem with my shepherd and my betty eared Malinois never even flopped over AT ALL :rolleyes: nerny ner ner I heard Vit C and some shark cartilage can help build the cartilage in the ears He's soooooo cute, what a boooootiful boy!

Sounds like a head injury. If there is 3 discs out of place she could have been bowled over, smacked her head and now has pain in that side of her face. Check that maybe she hasnt got a fractured skull, broken the root of her tooth or even ruptured eardrum on that side. go the x-ray and MRI if available because its either pain or nervous damage from my guess.

I know there are little vests that are in fluro material and have something like 'give me space' or likewise printed on them. Your dog still needs to learn but if you can advertise the fact he needs to concentrate without having to try and intercepts a hundred ooohing and aaaaahin people then its a great help ... try taking a big Bordeaux somewhere and not have a crowd gather and slather him with attention and pats hehehehe I know what you go through by the way ... where are the photo come on come on we need photos! I'm a sucker for nice GSD ... I'll swap you for a photo of my old girl Sheba who I had to PTS last year at about 14 years old.

Gee wonder why the dogs problem is getting worst ... NEVER push down or restrain a dog because its COUNTERPRODUCTIVE NEVER scream or engage an animal that is anxious or aggressive she has to start from the beginning. Unfortunately this dog has learned that it has to get at the other animal before it gets its head mashed into the ground and screamed at. This woman has to teach the dog to trust her again, frankly I wouldnt (actually I'd grab her head and push it into the dirt for treating her dog like that but thats a whole separate issue) She needs a few things -obedience training for the dog - distraction training for her dog - teach the animal that other dogs are nothing to bother about - only let her dog engage with dogs they know, no off lead parks or random hellos - teach the dog the 'leave' command and to eat on command. Easily done, hold the food in front of the dogs face and say 'LEAVE'. When the dog leaves it say 'EAT' or whatever and let the dog eat the food calmly. If the dog snaps at her hand she turns away and hides the food until the dog settles. - hand feeding the dog and rewarding it for eating and behaving - bad behaviour is treated with removal of good things not a physical punishment - ie dog snaps at another the owner quickly does an about turn and gets the dog to sit. Reward for concentrating on the owner and ignoring the other dog. Sibe - even for your dog rolls are UNACCEPTABLE, especially for a dog of your pups age. Also you crate after it calms down so it is being punished for 1) settling down 2) allowing itself to be rolled over. Dogs understand in the way of one action after another. The roll just means the owner has completely lost control of the situation and has to physically dominate the dog. Then its crated for allowing itself to be caught. Kind of like yelling at your dog when it eventually listens and returns, all the dog understands is its being punished for what happened that second. Your pup would benefit from more obedience training through drive, and you working on manipulating the dogs wants and needs to your advantage instead of fighting physically. Alpha rolls show the dog the owner is NOT a leader but just another dog fighting with it - hence your problem is never solved. And you do this when your dog is already well into fighting or grabbed another dog, you have not solved the problem so get ready for years of bite - roll - crate, bite - roll - crate.

ooooh i just consider it double trouble. If the other dog was well trained and paid no attention to yours then maybe but two? I could see that ending in a big mess At the moment your dog seems to think that the whole 'OK say hi' bit means a free range to go spaz! The dogs issues dont lie with other dogs, they lie with respect and the handler. Also dont feel the need, like many owners do, that your dog HAS to say hi and engage with other dogs. Why? let him expect that he does not get to sniff/touch any other dog when he goes out and you will find he will lose interest. If there is a possibility he gets to engage it will be another way he tries to push the limits with you. Playing at other peoples places or doggy get togethers can be a whole separate issue, but for now I would just cut the whole HI thing to keep it easier for you. Plus whilst your pup is young they are impressionable, a dog that wags its tail and wants to say hi will come up and they can turn. Snap. Bite in the face and your dog develops a complex. Its happened to my Belgian bitch and trust me one growl and bite to the face can really rattle them and put your training back a long way. For that reason I dont like telling people to go let dogs they dont know come up to their dogs. Start in the backyard ... progress to front yard, then your street, then walk to the shops etc. Baby steps. Keep everything black and white, be really consistant and the dog will get it.

you got PEACE? what did I miss ... I ended up with whinging and carpet tearing ... and then she stood on the Bordeaux's clackers and it was onn for young and old

You have to work on 2 things - asserting yourself as the dogs leader and practicing Distraction. Your dog sees the need to protect you, but you have to show him there is nothing to worry about. At the moment he's simply barking 'mum mum I'll protect you, hey you go away' and once his drive arks up you will have a lot of trouble controlling him. Also because you have been training under low - no stress environments, as soon as the dog goes into 'drive' as he does he will ignore you because its an overriding force in the animals brain. Keep going to obedience, the trick is to keep him a sufficient distance from other people and train his obedience there. If he is comfortable then he will listen but he will also be around the distractions. Gradually get closer and closer, but keep his attention on you with a toy (prey drive) or with food. The trick is to keep his attention, train this for only short periods, like 15-20 minutes then give him a break. If he starts getting riled up do a quick about turn heel and get his attention back by waving the toy/food in front of his face to really get his attention back and then make him sit. Show him that paying attention and behaving is a better reward then acting like a nutter. As for people, when you have control THEN introduce people. If you dont trust him not to behave you are setting up a situation for disaster or setting your hard work back further. If he does have very high drive then you may need to put him on a pinch collar (if you are not in Vic and have a good trainer show you how to use it) just so you can control him whilst walking. Dont bother with trying to push introducing him to other dogs you just keep building up his bad behaviour. He has you as his family he wont be missing much if he doesnt sniff hello to every dog in the street. Plus you struggling with him is another great way to have him listen to you less and less. The problem when dogs get into this drive 'mode' is anything you add (like a reward or correction) has to be really black and white to work. If you tug tug tug, plead, yell etc with the dog you add to the problem because he then equates you going 'NO NO NO' to him getting more excited. Dogs brains ... I know its frustrating, I know its hard but you have a breed that is doing what its genetics are telling it to do. Unfortunately his brain is telling him to do this and its not being redirected. Training in drive will be the best way to curb this behaviour and working on him just chilling out in public and not feeling the need to go bananas! Dont forget his hormones are going to be up and down at this age, 12 months and around 16-18 months so be patient and calm with him. If you lose your cool (and trust me its easy to do ) he will just regress into bad habits. Do a search for K9 force threads (triangle of temptation and Training in Drive) and try www.leerburg.com for some heavy reading on working Shepherds, Rotts, Dobes and Malinois.

if there is no medical reason then its a combination of new environment and some settling nerves. Dont give her too many options, stick to what she was used to with the breeder or you are going to confuse her. Forget weet bix, tinned food etc as they can give her bloaty tummy. Also the puppy milk I give on its own if they start getting thin (even as adults) When introducing new foods do it slowly. Stick to the breeders menu, then slowly increase your menu and decrease the breeders. It will prevent tummy upsets or food refusal if you do changes gradually. Start a routine with meals too. Defined meal times, set portions and the same food. If its not eaten in 15 minutes then take it away, you will find she will pick up in no time! If you keep offering her food she will become fussy. Dont worry she wont starve herself but will soon learn to eat or, like back with her littermates, she will miss out!

using the roll is a great way to create fear and anxiety in the dog. If you need that much force to settle your dog you are not working on other areas enough. Its simply fighting with your dog and beleive me the one time you DONT win watch out, or you will get bitten big time. You are not training your dog to respect you, you are doing it through force so its a begrudged acceptance. The challenges wont stop and you will be back and forth your entire lives... not really a good way of living. This is why you guys will see and improvement, regression, improvement, regression. The dog is not given the RIGHT way of doing it from the owner, just a huge freaky punishment so it never learns how to behave. Pretty much the same as choking, a method of people who dont know what they're doing. You are better off removing the dog from the situation, getting it to sit and focus on you. He can play when he settles down. If not ... no more play time. Beleive me, withholding rewards teaches your dog faster then pinning it to the ground when it plays up. Which would you prefer? Also I dont beleive in choking the dog with the lead either. Another wrong thing to do with the check chain, if you have to choke then take a few steps back in your training or GET SOME HELP. Conversely get a pinch collar ONLY if you have a trainer around to teach you how to use it. Remember most dog problems are really people problems - the owners not having the knowledge to deal with the situations as they arise. Training is about teaching yourself, the dog will know what to do but YOU are the one that needs to learn how to get your dog to do it the right way. If you assert yourself as leader of the pack your job will be 1000 times easier. So far if you keep trying to train AND assert you will never train your dog but have an uneasy coexistance.

Wyvern you HAVE to come ... there is a course set up with strong fishing line and a plastic bag is tied to it. The bag then flies around the course and the dogs chase it MEGA SUPER FUN for all even the dogs hehehehehe trust me, even people who think their dogs arent interested cant help themselves!

you have to explain a little more what do you mean by 'submit' you dont alpha roll do you? this dog doesnt seem to have a lot of obedience or respect training. Try www.leerburg.com for some respect issues. Your dog is not aggressive it just has not been taught enough manners. You have to control the situations, at the moment you seem to be getting to her AFTER she has initiated the rough play or bad behaviour. The trick is to nip it in the bud before it starts. Crating at work would be better or leave her at home as you just promote bad behaviour. I reccomend taking her to a proff trainer, behaviourist or talk to the breeder as you need to understand these dogs a little better before it completely gets out of control. Its nothing really that can be done over a forum properly as we cant see how the dog is actually behaving.

what methods have you tried. When you take it to work do you crate it, tether or let it run riot? how old and have you begun obedience. Doesnt sound like aggression sounds like a typical dominant sibe puppy to me. The puppy doesnt see you as a pack leader hence the bossing and posession. start here: search this site for Crate Training never feed before yourself or the other dogs no coming up onto furniture or into your bedroom you walk through doors first attention only when the dog behaves or calms down, apart from that completely ignore it keep her on a lead when introducing to other dogs. Make her sit and wait if she plays up she doesnt get to meet the other dog.

The malinois ... pots from plants ... plastic AND ceramic various socks a couch several foam items so its always an off yellow christmans at my place a few jumpers, towels and a pair of pants the carpet in the boot of my station wagon ... well she finally finished the job recently started on the light IN the car too but we nipped that in the bud several leads platic bags newspapers tissues i recycled water hose the Bordeaux 1 palm tree 1 pair of faux leather boots (cheapies THANKFULLY) 1 industrial timber pallet 1 tree branch several plastic bottles - with or without contents and usually in my car 1 rather comfy windcheater 1 entire large single matress rope tug toy yes my backyard may have very little in there but with industrial sized dogs I cant trust them for an evening with anything of too much value

Just enough time for the bitch to come out of season :D she may quiet down a little this time ... probably not ... everyone ready to watch a Bordeaux throw himself around after a plastic bag! SUPER SKOOT will have his first run yaaay catch ya there!!

Sounds like she's trying to be the boss. Keep the bedroom door shut and the dog is to see that a as no go zone. At the moment there is little respect as dogs NEVER soil their own sleeping area, and doing this shows she doesnt see him as anyone of rank. NEVER let the dog sit or hump your son. These are also dominance gestures over him. If she starts this get him to stand up and look away from her. He has to be higher and ignore her until she settles. As the pack leader it is your responsibility to show her this is unacceptable. Send her to her mat and make her stay there, when the family is together she can only join when you let her etc. If she misbehaves, put her outside. 10 months is still young but you dont need a dog that can start doing things like shredding his stuff or hurting him accidentally.

marking is a dominance issue and extremely disrespectful towards you. He probably is showing other dominance signs, subtle, that you dont notice

yes I ended up sick as a dog, barely made it home through the traffic with a migrain and pounding pain in my foot ... Oh half of it is a nice bruise today ... but I can walk a little better Lablover your dog is amazing! Want a mal to train? Despite all the ruckus she made (and drumroll please .... she's coming into SEASON yay for me) she's really a lovely dog Its a new one for Steve to discuss - Hormone Drive, the pain in the arse behaviour a dog gets when its coming into season! Half a container of Rescue Remedy into her and she's starting to settle :D great to put more faces to names. And I got to hug little Rosie again Very interesting day, definately gonna start implementing some of that.

You are on the right track! The main thing is that the kitten has an area to escape to when the dog gets too much and you have that covered. Good thing ot keep the litter away since a lot of dogs like to eat the poo ... dooooont ask me why ... Supervise them when they have contact, as even a small bump can hurt a kitten and I wouldnt let a 14kg dog play with a baby kitty. Hold the kitten and keep it comfortable, then let the dog sniff it while sitting. Teach the pup that the kitten is not a toy and to remain calm around it. I wouldnt leave them alone together at the moment if you go out, maybe lock the kitten in the spare room during that time.

the OP said she had triend telling off, ignoring etc. Water wont hurt the pup from one of those cheapy spray bottles but it will stop it in its tracks.

the problem with dew claws at this ages is the vein that runs just under that joint along the leg. This is where the problem is. I sat in on a dew claw operatino on this poor Coon hound because the idiot family decided he needed it done at 9 months when they were well and truely solid (he was going to be a pet anyway ???). Poor bubby couldnt walk out of there too well. If you are going to do it, get it done now. Make sure the vet knows what they are going and dont do too much exercise for a few weeks. Make sure that area is well and truely healed up before you take him out where it could reopen because that vain is a bleeder. But if you're going to hunt its a really good idea.

If you look at Schutzhund its not 'attack' per sey. The dog is not trained to just eat the decoy, go for anything, any time. Its only to grab the sleeve arm when the dog is directly threatened or if the owner says it can. Hence the dog is simply defending itself and its owner in a controlled manner. Plus Schutzhund being a sport a dog is worked in prey drive (its all a game to the dog), a lot of schutzhund dogs would be no contest in a true life situation because some never achieve defence. A true 'attack' dog would be one that just attacks unprovoked, on command or usually not. This type of training is irresponsible to me and its usually done backyard. What the law makers dont realise is that attack work doesnt have to involve 'bitework' on sleeves etc. You can make a dog really mean by just unsocialising, mistreating it and giving it a complex about the rest of the world (eg the macho dunderheads that encourage their dogs to bark/lunge at people on the street and then laugh) Security training again is for the dog to defend its handler on command from a threat. I have seen sport and security dogs, most of them are well trained and HUGE tail waggers and smoochers, even to the decoys they have just been biting. Thats part of responsible training, conditioning the dog to ONLY respond when the owner requires and all other times its to ignore other people to the point of letting itself be touched, patted roughly etc. True bitework is about obedience and control more then it is teaching the dog to attack. If the government is so worried then maybe they should implement that all dogs that are going to do this have to do a socialisation/obedience course at the same time and pass to an off lead control level.

spray bottle and water. Every time she makes a go at it squirt her in the face. If its getting worst it means the correction/distraction you are giving is not good enough and she is not paying attention. Dont change something for your dog, train her out of it before she finds it adn you come home to a shredded jacket!

always welcome! Come back for any advice, you are lucky because this forum has breeders, vets, trainers, behaviourists and nutty dog people so we can help you with anything! P.S. from your other post the little one has trouble chewing maybe ask the vet to clean his teeth while he's under the anesthetic if theyre really dirty.