Poodle wrangler

After lots of umming and arrrghing, I've still not decided what the next dry food will be. It's about 50% of what my dogs get. I've upped the pet mince (pet shop)-veg-rice mix and chicken wings/ necks which I get from the supermarket to about 50% of diet. I still can't fathom how some dry foods are $6-9/ kilo. It's not the cost of ingredients. Must be the profit, advertising and import $. I can buy human-grade meat for < $9/ kilo though I'd have to feed more of it. I just got a sample of Nutrience Puppy Medium breed in the mail- first 3 ingredients are chicken meal, brewer's rice and ground corn. Made in USA says the stamp on the bag. Why do we import these foods when they could be made here?

This is a bit different, but I've worked with humans who have joint replacements for over 5 years. Different to dogs, I know, but here's my 2 cents' worth: * All ops carry risk of death, anaesthetic alone carries risk, albeit very small * A good result isn't guaranteed, no matter how good the surgeon * The older the patient, the more the risk. Having seen what people go thru, I would try all medication and other treatments b4 going for the surgery option. I'd want to know my dog had no other medical problems b4 surgery and simply wouldn't have surgery done on an older dog.

American Holistic vet. Worth watching. This link (same guy) talks about the difference between meat, meat meal and meat byproducts: http://www.petcarenaturally.com/articles/d...supplements.php. Anyone know if the same definitions apply here?

My 5 month old standard poodle will leave kibble to be eaten only as a last resort, but loves fresh mince-veg-rice mix or leftovers (I'm careful it's not anything unsuitable). If your pup's a healthy weight, I wouldn't worry at all about the occasional missed meal. She will eat it if she's truly hungry. Our pup loves some canned tuna or sardines added to kibble, too. Or, even just the oil or brine over the top. When you think that kibble has to stay "fresh" in a bag for months, it's no wonder it's not very tasty.

Mozzies? I use Advantix as it covers fleas, ticks and mozzies. Been lots of mozzies around here lately and one of my dogs has more sensitive skin.

I was thinking an adult Wei, too. How old is their dog? If they don't have enough time for a pup, can they not be there to help their dog get through this difficult time? I'm not trying to be mean, but their dog has gone from having a mate outside 100% of the time to no-one at all in the yard with him most of the time (?) . Wouldn't another dog be a relatively "easy" solution? People have other commitments, of course. If not another dog, a behaviourist?

OMG Check out pricelesspets.com.au.

Since pup came to live with us, the dogs amuse each other a lot of the time. Then they sleep for hours. Palm fronds make excellent tug toys, they've found. Poodle pruning . Someone might suggest a friend for your dog. He might be less bored, but it could be double trouble, double destruction . I think a dog run will be less expensive overall- just add up all the destruction thus far and expect it to continue for at least another year or so.

He looks gorgeous. We had a boxer who was just wonderful. For some vet info about desexing: http://www.balgownievet.com.au/1_gen_desex_intro.htm. I've had mostly desexed male dogs with no problems. I think it's cruel to leave them intact if they're a pet. And you shouldn't breed unless you really know what you're doing. Boxers can have hereditary health problems which you'd want to avoid. It costs more to register a non-desexed dog with council. You have to register by 6 months of age. In our area, it's a difference of about $120 ;) . In the event your dog gets out and is picked up (higher risk if he's intact and out looking for a mate) or neighbours make a complaint about barking, for example, you'd be up for a fine, then still have to register in order to keep him .

Bring on the chew toys . My standard poodle is going thru this to a lesser extent. It's mostly when he's excited so when I let him in the morning, I offer him a chew toy to occupy his teeth, instead. He's teething. BigW and Woolies have cheap cotton ropes for about $4 each. Also, check the "bargain" bin at pet shops for rubber toys that look like KONGs. Sometimes only about $5 and last for ages. YOU keep all chew toys (you must be the leader of the pack), give them to dog, then put away again. Word of warning about blowing into a dog's nose- Can be a good way to get bitten! My smaller poodle HATES this and it has been the only time he's ever looked as though he might bite me. This is a dog who had no problem with me putting pliers in his mouth (piece of bone stuck). Terriers are known for being fearless - e.g. Nasty spray bottle? Bring it on!- and energetic, but this biting needs to be nipped in the bud. They're also trainable, so don't give up. He just needs a strong leader. It's not something they grow out of on their own- have to learn not to do it. Training and obedience lessons will help you communicate with your dog better. They're based on rewards, not punishment, but you have to use "tough love" i.e. firm and consistent.

Am interested as the mini poodle's ears are looking a bit red and a little smelly (infection starting?). Found this about Malaseb from a vet's website: http://www.balgownievet.com.au/1_gen_derm_ear_clean.htm Quite informative.

I wouldn't leave food out overnight- pup doesn't need 24 hour access and I found it attracts ants and rodents at our place. More potential for mess, also . Leaving him with a chicken wing to settle is different as he's likely to gobble it up and not leave it there. I'd just leave a small bowl of water. You've done well if he's pretty much trained for daytime .

At the lower end of the anus, press in, up and outwards. When you take your pup in for the next vaccination, ask the vet to show you. Some dogs need this done regularly. Signs are trying to bite/ chew down there and/ or dog scooting along on it's bottom. Smaller breeds have more trouble than larger breeds, apparently. The stuff is foul smelling. Best done outside with tissue, gloves and stand back, so it doesn't get you. My vet said she got it in her hair (long) once, and it stank for a week despite washings. She's extra careful, now. ETA: Can also be done when washing dog. Still use paper towel or tough tissue, though.

We lost a boxer to bloat at about 8 or 9 years of age , but only had her for a few years). . Sad to lose yours so young. It could have been pure bad luck. I'm not exactly sure, but read it to mean that a dog is more likely to get bloat, the older it gets. As not all dog die of bloat, there's no 100% likelihood at 10 years of age. The study included large and giant breeds like Danes and Irish Wolfhounds that have shorter life expectancies than GSDs, for example. As with any disease, vets and breeders all have different ideas based on their own experiences. That's why studies are needed to try to look at things a bit more objectively. Sorry, I haven't searched to see if the results of this study have been repeated since. Not exercising after meals is something I do, too. Dogs can do very well on BARF and it would be a shame to stop feeding this if they're doing well on it, bones and all. Others say too many bones can cause constipation, too, but it's part of a normal dog diet. IMO, you can only do your best, based on current information, and seek immediate vet attention at the first sign of bloat.

My standard poodle pup had tear stains for a couple of weeks, about a week after I got him. I specifically asked breeder if the apricot colour got tear staining and I hate the look of it. A kid asked, "how come his eye's bleeding?" I feel your pain :p Different situation as no sagging eyelid issue, but it cleared with change of diet. I clipped close around the eyes, cleaned eyes hygienically etc. with little success. Was very glad it cleared. He still has sleep in his eyes about twice a day, but not weepy or yellowish/green looking; dry stuff (probably related to sleeping in a garden bed ). Keeping the hair short, as you are, is the right idea as bacteria/yeasts like to grow in the wet patches making it look worse. Vet can test whether or not the tear ducts were working by putting a liquid with dye into the eye. Did this for my other poodle who had reddened, slightly teary/ gooey (clear stuff) eyes. Sorry, can't remember details of the test, but it only took a few minutes; nothing major. My dog's diagnosis was grass allergy. I just clean eyes each day and not very noticeable as he's black. Comes and goes. Rambling post, sorry, but main point was possible allergy component (diet, environment) + need to clarify the issue further with the vet. It's clear you still feel there's something wrong. IS it a characteristic of the breed ?

Can I suggest cardboard as a good insulator? Old boxes are fine and it's no trouble if it gets chewed/ bit soggy- just replace. Polar fleece blankets don't soak up water, either and might be OK. I have a few old baby's ones for the dogs when it's colder. My poodles both sleep outside under cover, but no kennel. South Coast, NSW, but near the coast so it doesn't get as cold overnight. I'd guess an Airedale's coat is of similar weight to a poodle. I think it's nice you're wanting to keep him comfortable. He's only a pup, after all.

It depends on the severity and what part of the brain's affected. Most improve significantly after the initial stroke. You'd have to consider PTS a dog whose temperament became dog +/or people aggressive after a stroke, tho. A friend-of-friend has a cat who's "paraplegic" after a car accident. Cat is still very happy and otherwise healthy, but drags it's back legs behind it. Gets around very well, actually. Some people don't react well :D .

I'm selling my kennel after it spent the past 5 years or so unused in the backyard. I tried various spots, bedding etc- not interested.

What's woundguard spray? Is it designed for humans or dogs?

There's a great post from shmoo about food to avoid for dogs- about 8 posts down: http://forums.dogzonline.com.au/index.php?showtopic=81686

Lovely photos. What a bad experience you've had as a first time owner. Dog nutrition is a minefield, but there seems to be general consensus on keeoing large breeds lean when growing and NOT giving extra calcium ad hoc. Apparently this used to be common practice, but there were bone problems as a result. Some DOLers are also involved with selling some of the super premium brands, so just be aware. Vets often sell Hills Science Diet and make a profit thru sales. You can expect to pay around $90-110 for a 15kg bag of the super premium foods like Nutro, Royal Canin, Eagle Pack, Nutrience etc. They say you need to feed less than a supermarket brand, but I haven't switched to a super premium yet (am still weighing it up), so can't give any personal experience. It really depends on your budget, I guess. ETA: There have been huge recalls of dry dog food in the USA due to contamination of ingredients sourced from China, however, some companies don't disclose where their ingredients are from. Only a handful of recalls in Oz. Makes it hard to make informed choices.

I'm not sure that it's available in Oz?

You can still use a slicker, but it has to be a "soft" one e.g. http://www.petnetwork.com.au/cgi-bin/shopp...;cart_id=864135. The Doggy Man brand is great, but also the most expensive. I'd get a large size for your dog. Will last forever as long as your dog doesn't eat it . I'd ask the vet for a refund/ credit/ exchange. From CHOICE magazine website: http://www.choice.com.au/viewArticle.aspx?...Shopping+rights Those soft bristle/ nylon brushes (more like the human type) are pretty useless.

Thanks, flycow for the Nutrience price. I'm looking to add a super premium dry food to our standard poodle's diet (replacing the Supercoat Puppy/ Bonnie Puppy mix, he gets raw bones, mice (edited: mince) etc. also). I live in a regional area, so prices are all over the place. What do people pay for 15kg bags of brands like Eagle Pack, Nutro, Royal Canin? Even a RRP would be helpful as some local stores charge well over that. Info much appreciated ...

That's one fancy-looking brush! No offence to the vet, but they're probably the wrong person to ask about brushes. Slicker brushes are "firm" or "soft". What does it feel like when you run it up your arm with firm pressure? Shouldn't hurt at all. Just did it with my soft slicker and left only very light scratch marks. I use a soft slicker on both my poodles and my sister's RidgebackX (shorthaired). Great for getting extra hair off my sister's dog- he really likes it- like a gently back scratch, I guess . If your slicker's the "firm" type i.e. very scratchy on your arm, then I'd request an exchange. They're obliged to do so as the vet recommended it, but it's not suitable for your short-haired dog. I made this mistake with my first poodle- bought a slicker which was too firm- he hated it! I then had to work at getting him used to the right type of slicker brush. Other factor is that your dog may not be used to brushing. Once you know the brush is OK, start over, brush only a little at a time, giving treats for good behaviour, then building up the time. A firm, "No" for misbehaving and don't reward him for it in any way e.g. stop brushing or let him run away. Good luck .