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Still Struggling With Action Pics


ruthless
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Ruthless I dont see a problem with your images except maybe a light issue, otherwise nice. At least they are not a blurry mess. :rofl: I've thrown the towel in on action shots.

Could someone point us idiots in the right direction for a good filter? What to look for beside $150 price. I just bought a Hoya Super HMC Pro 1 UV purely for lens protection as I thought scratching a filter would be cheaper to replace then my lens. Never thought it could effect quality. :o Now I can blame my sh!t photography on my filter. :love:

Also......Happy Birthday to Chopper. :laugh:

That's actually quite a good filter. A little tough to keep clean.

I use the B+W filters myself (trying to wean myself off them) - easier to clean.

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I want heaps more sharpness. I realise I need to put the practice in, so I'm not complaining, just looking for advice. Chopper says thank you :o

Sharpness is due to soooo many factors.

Even with my 70-200 2.8 IS and my 40D - I throw away many, many more action shots than I keep (oh-oh, secrets out).

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That's actually quite a good filter. A little tough to keep clean.

Can I ask what you mean by this? Do they attract the dirt or is my Spray'n'wipe multi purpose spay just not going to cut it in cleaning it. Do I need a special diamond encrusted cloth? :o

Also is this a worth while filter: Hoya Super Pro 1 Circular Polariser?

Edited by Rocco1
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That's actually quite a good filter. A little tough to keep clean.

Can I ask what you mean by this? Do they attract the dirt or is my Spray'n'wipe multi purpose spay just not going to cut it in cleaning it. Do I need a special diamond encrusted cloth? :o

Also is this a worth while filter: Hoya Super Pro 1 Circular Polariser?

I've just read various comments about them being hard to clean:

http://www.google.com/search?ie=UTF-8&...r+hard+to+clean

I don't have any experience with the Hoya polariser (I think the PRO 1 D is the newer version for didgital).

Personally, I'd probably go for B+W or if I had money to burn Singh Ray.

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The other day I dropped one of my telephotos on its front end - BANG!

Given the rough dirty environment I was glad I had a filter on.

Lens fine, filter fine :(:o

In a dirty, sandy, unpredictable environment I think Id rather

risk "crap" photos.

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The other day I dropped one of my telephotos on its front end - BANG!

Given the rough dirty environment I was glad I had a filter on.

Lens fine, filter fine :(:o

In a dirty, sandy, unpredictable environment I think Id rather

risk "crap" photos.

My 50mm is only alive today due to a polariser that saved it from a fall :) unfortunately the polariser didn't make it though...

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I've gotten some more advice by email and on Flickr which I thought I'd share here, cause I'm nice like that :(

Use centre focus point

Use a shutter speed of 1/1000 or higher

ISO no higher than 400

With my lens f8 is good for running dogs [Don't worry chezzyr, I'll still do my homework :)]

Keep the frame full when shooting [i was cropping quite a lot so losing image quality]

The camera tracks focus better when the dog is moving directly towards it [not changing direction like Chopper was]

And of course ... practice, practice, practice :o

Edited by ruthless
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All this dropping of lenses, when I was photographing a waterfall on a hike last month, after setting up the tripod I managed to drop the UV filter while replacing it with the ND filter and then it was still too bright to get a slow enough shutter speed to blur the water so I then tried to screw in the polariser and managed to drop that too.

Fortunately on soft grass. :o Thank goodness I bought some lens cleaning cloths from Jessops (UK chain of camera stores) whilst on hols or I'd be in strife. I'm quite clumsy with my long fingers and all.

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Since I'm shooting at such fast shutter speeds, is it possible that I don't need the IS turned on at all? Could it be slowing down my auto-focussing?

Interesting question.

AKAIK, IS will slow down the *initial* focus but shouldn't effect the tracking focus.

Note: If you are shooting in continuous mode and 'panning' (moving the camera while you shoot) in any way, you should switch IS to Mode 2.

My recommendation (for what it's worth)...

At 1/800 and above, with a 70-300mm, turn IS off.

Below 1/800 and moving the camera while shooting, IS Mode 2

Below 1/800 and not moving the camera while shooting, IS Mode 1.

Note: Depending on how steady you are, you could substitute 1/800 for 1/500 in the rules above.

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I don't have any experience with the Hoya polariser (I think the PRO 1 D is the newer version for didgital).

Personally, I'd probably go for B+W or if I had money to burn Singh Ray.

OK, they sure were not kidding about hard to clean. I just had a look at mine. All you do is move the smudge around. :)

Those Singh Ray look so wonderful, but yes expensive.

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I've got a 'Hitech' ND grad filter. It's better than a Cokin as it doesn't give you a purple colour cast. Bought it from B&H when the AUD was stronger but was still under $100. It's supposed to be a pretty good brand too. Cokin are crap (I also have a Cokin which I now never use).

I thought Lee are the best - but they are also the most expensive.

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For outdoor photography and lens protection does no one use a skylight filter? Does the same job (protecting the lens) as the UV filter but assists the image a little better if its a skylight filter.

No way would I not have a filter on my 100-400mm lens and it performs just fine with a filter. Also there is NO problem in using an ISO higher than 400 - why do photography forums always get funny about ISO. On my 40D up to 800 ISO is fine AS LONG AS THE PHOTO IS CORRECTLY EXPOSED. Over that it starts to show just a little but then at that stage its taking photos in dark gloomy rain or night time.

AS for cleaning them - last time I used the sunglass cleanrer spray. Worked a treat however wouldn't use it all that often (lets say have cleaned filters with it once since Feb).

Edited by rubiton
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I use a bellow thing for cleaning my sensor (just a poof of air usually does it) and special lens cleaning cloths (bought in a small packet) to clean my lenses. You can get the Arctic butterfly professional camera cleaning appliance (it looks like something a woman might own for an um, different personal use) to properly clean your sensor. Has a spinning head on it.

ETA: for cleaning not the lenses but inside your camera, Arctic butterfly

post-485-1226740445_thumb.jpg

Edited by Ripley
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