huski

Yes Nic who shall we get to be a DD for us?? LOL Can you imagine us together with alcohol??? OMG I just realised Daisy and I will be in that catalogue Holy crap remind me why I'm doing this again??? :D

Yep but I think that's true of anything you post on the net - there's nothing I posted in this thread that isn't already all over DOL

Knowing the standard Ella is at I would say go for it Just gotta keep her and Daisy apart :D

I'll do one for Daisy, and then if I can be bothered, I will come back and do one for the other two Name: Daisy (aka Semeru Bellis) Nickname: The Evil Beagle Breed: Beagle Gender: Female Age: Three years Picture: (Hey - Daisy with a bag of food she's NOT EATING! ZOMG ) Where did you get them from? A pedigree breeder (see prefix name, LOL) How often do you exercise your dog? Depends what you mean by exercise, I walk them a few times a week but we do high energy training just about every day. Do they know any commands? Yep - we compete in obedience (see below) so she knows all the obedience basics - sit, stay, down, stand, heel, etc as well as hi-5 and hi-10. She also knows how to do a formal dumbell retrieval and can do scent discrimination. Compete in any dog sports? Yep, obedience - for an example and maybe tracking one day too Favourite treat: Anything edible, but especially donuts. Funny habits or quirks: Being a ninja beagle who is very talented at stealing food and eating it before you realise. What's their personality like? She's a bit independent, but a typical merry little hound as beagles should be. Do they get along well with other dogs? Yep but she can be a bit disinterested in them (not a bad thing IMO). Are they scared of anything? Not particularly. What training methods do you use? Positive reinforcement? Corrections? I use a method called training in drive.

Sounds pretty normal to me, some people are just really judgmental

They are a scent hound so I imagine that may present issues with training - I'm not sure they would be the easiest breed for a child and training newbie to tackle, but it would be worthwhile talking to some breeders to see. I love PBGVs and am keen to own one eventually! Not sure they are quite active enough for me though.

I don't know if it will make my inability to walk in a straight line better or worse I might be falling over by the time I get to stays!

The MOST IMPORTANT THING to bring to a trial, is alcohol and nibblies!!! OMG I almost forgot!!! Is wine acceptable at a morning trial???

Thanks Nic and Kath for the what-to-do-slash-bring-to-a-trial advice OMG YES. All the time! I find I have gotten better with time especially as my dog has gotten better and I've gotten more confidence in her. Great video! I love Standards The purple colouring on her is awesome!! Glad to hear you are enjoying training It is very addictive!

This is one of Daisys favourite tricks too! She loves it when I ask her to stand on a box or bucket or any object really and pivot around it. We also have nice left and LATs now which is why I trained it initially. In the future it will be one of the first exercises I train puppies.

No need to duck for cover Ken I use corrections when I trained LLW with my dogs. Not big yanks on the leash or anything that would block their air flow, though But training LLW in my mind is different to how I would train competition heel work. My dog used to be pretty unresponsive even if I shoved food under her nose, she was likely to ignore it. Lots of people wrote her off and giving her a big leash correction when she was unresponsive (i.e. on a scent) would do nothing to deter her or force her to be more interested in me. Sure that wasn't so much her saying "make me do it" as it was her completely switching off and find drive satisfaction quickly through another outlet, but it does make me question why a dog won't comply with a command. I think finding ways to motivate our dogs is one of the most important things we can do. Good question! I'd love to hear the answer, because it's never been something I could get my head around. We all love our dogs, right? Why hurt the things you love? When there is a better way? Sorry Jeanne, don't take that to mean I don't agree with using corrections when necessary. Because I have no issue with people using prongs, e-collars etc when it's appropriate... but when they are being used appropriately, it wouldn't be what I consider unnecessary force. In fact when I've seen these tools used properly it's all about using as minimal force as possible. On the other hand, giving a mammoth leash correction to a dog when you're trying to train competition heel work purely because the dog is disinterested/lacking motivation - an example of unnecessary force IMO.

Ken - as I asked Black Bronson a few pages back, sure you might have seen results in the old days with Koehler methods but nowdays we see a whole range of breeds competing in dogs sports that we didn't see back then. How many scent hounds were successfully trained with Koehler methods? How many were trained to total off leash reliability in a matter of weeks? There's a difference between using a forceful correction designed to air block a dog and the slight correction given trouh a change of direction. Sure what is aversive changes depending on the dog but Why use more force than necessary?

Sure, you have to work with what you've got genetically but I started drive training with a two year old dog who isn't particularly high drive and we've made great progress. I'd like anyone who argues you can't build drive in an adult dog to meet her and then try to tell me it won't work She will never have as much drive as a working line Mal but we do ok.

There are definitely some trainers out there who leave a lot to be desired! I guess it also depends on what you want to learn. Seeking assistance and knowledge from a reputable trainer for something you are having a problem with does not mean you have to seek them out every time you have a problem, either. I guess I don't think of consulting with a trainer as a last resort - I would rather seek out knowledge before something becomes a serious problem.

Ah see you are more patient than I am... I would rather learn how to do it properly the first time plus I really enjoy learning from someone more experienced than I am... my poor dog already has to put up with me being a total noob of a handler, the least I can do for her is try to learn as much as I can rather than testing a million and one different things before I find one that works! Why make it harder for yourself - have someone put you on the right track so then when you put the effort in, you know it will work

I did K9 Pro's training in drive package, which has been great for Daisy and I I know there are some good DVDs out there too, I've heard the Ian Balabanov ones are supposed to be a good introduction to drive building.

Thanks Sas, yes very proud of my little beag Her enthusiasm is awesome! Do you see many Danes with that speediness/drive?

Wow Sas she's awesome! Fastest Dane I've ever seen!!

I too would rather short bursts of 110% than less than that for a longer period of time

I am the same, Bedazzled, the old yank and crank methods would not give me the results with my dog that I get with the methods I use now. LOL probably the old school trainers from the 70s.... :rofl: I'm not sure Steve was talking about using front connecting harnesses on aggressive dogs though? Hopefully he will come back and clarify for us!

Congrats everyone for all the recent brags! Sucks you didn't catch that round on video Bedazzled - what an amazing score!! Well done!!

Hi Your best bet is to have a one on one training session with a good trainer, there are lots of DOLers here based in VIC who are very reputable trainers, if you tell us whereabouts you are I am sure we can refer you to one in your area

Going by your posts Corvus, you call Erik your high drive dog, do you do much drive work with his tug toy? Why do you think he won't switch into drive (despite being quite prey driven) when he is distracted by another dog? Just interested cos it sounds like he has a lot of potential.

Sure, sometimes. My beagle can work better than dogs of some of those breeds, breed alone means nothing unless you use methods that are right for the individual dog. There aren't a lot of top competition dogs still trained with the old yank and crank methods that you are so fond of, BB.

Not to my knowledge. They have been in use since 1980 with no evidence suggesting a need to investigate. Here's an interesting one, "Owners of dogs wearing head collars may be interested to know that their dogs are not physiologically stressed when the collars are initially applied, despite nose pawing." http://www.appliedanimalbehaviour.com/arti...0113-0/abstract So much for the common objections "but he hates it" and "but head collars are aversive". Data speaks volumes. Can that really be applied to all dogs who wear head collars? A friend of mine put one on her Siberian and he clawed at his face so much in desperation to get it off, that he made himself bleed. Surely a dog would have to be under some sort of stress to cause themselves that much harm Or how about the dog I saw at dog school who fought and fought and fought against the collar the instant it was put on, threw himself on the ground doing the crocodile roll to try and it get it off and refused to walk with it on - surely that dog is stressed in some way? And it doesn't explain why I see dogs completely shut down when put on a head collar, then perk right up again once it's taken off. I'm no expert, but obviously the head collar had to have had some negative effect on the dog to cause that reaction.