huski

I think it's awesome you found something that works well for you, but it is short sighted to believe that one method works the best for every dog and owner. I don't use check chains, in fact I use a lot of shaping and marker training. I have a pretty good grasp on how to use rewards effectively and I can post some videos of my dogs training if you'd like to confirm this. But I don't agree with your statements that clicker training is the best way to train all dogs. I don't believe there is a one size fits all approach to training dogs (or people) :)

How many dogs have you trained to walk on a loose leash using the clicker and how long did it take, Sheena? I am not being a smart ass, I am genuinely interested in how quickly you get results with the clicker because I don't agree it works faster for every dog and handler.

And stating that using a clicker is always the best option is also hogwash. It doesn't matter if you are using rewards or corrections or both, no reputable trainer throws a dog into a high level of distraction and expects it to work well without first going through the phases of teaching; training and proofing the dog. You don't start the dog in the highest level of distraction no matter what method you are using.

Do we really have to start an argument that dogs that are trained with aversives don't "love" their owners? The "better" method is the one that gets the best results for the dog and their owner. It is "hog wash" to assume that every problem that any owner has with any dog is best solved with a clicker. There is no doubt that clickers can be a useful tool, just like prong collars can be a useful tool. There is no one size fits all method that works best for every dog and owner.

I think it depends on the dog and your goals. Are you getting what you consider 110% in training/work/performance? Do you feel there is no room for improvement or your dog is giving you 110% consistently? If you don't want any more from your dog then you have no reason to question what you can do to get more. However I know many high drive dogs that have had a noticeable increase in performance even when minimally restricting access to the handler and/or rewards. It is not always a case of having lack luster work to start with but wanting an extra edge. With dogs with less drive, IMO it is without question these things can all make a difference. I don't ask my dog to work hard all the time, I expect her to switch on and off as I require. But when I want her on, I want her ON.

I don't think it's about purely drive, our dogs have lots of drive and could work all day long until they drop dead from exhaustion. I never have a training session where I don't have my dog show an enormous amount of drive to earn the reward but I do notice an increase in work ethic when I restrict how much they get for free. I'm not saying never to do those things - but I monitor how much I give for free or cheap. Even if it's a 5-10% difference for dogs with lots of drive, that can be substantial. One thing I've learnt from having a high drive dog is it's easy to let them get away with giving less than 100%.

Lol yes that would have been for teaching proprioception to the pups. Lots of fun! And caught on video for extra cute factor

Vizsla puppy that won at Crufts yesterday has been trained like this. I was lucky enough to be sent videos 3 months apart. My untrained eye could see the differences in movement with the dog. Been enjoying your site with all this info. That's great to hear VM! I noticed a big difference even just using supplements. Wisdom had a litter recently and has been on Puppy Gold for months, but when I changed her back onto Super Fuel I noticed a difference in her muscle definition within a week. I do believe all of these things make a real difference.

I look at it this way: in training I ask my dog to work hard to earn drive satisfaction with her ball. But if I let her have access to that reward frequently for little to nothing, why would she want to work hard for it the next day? For some dogs it could make a big difference and for other dogs it may be a marginal difference but in competition and even in training that margin could make a huge difference. It's not just about how much drive the dog has but developing a good work ethic where the dog tries hard to earn the reward and puts in maximum effort - not thinking it doesn't matter if they try hard because "meh, mum gives me this for free or next to free at the park or beach each day anyway".

I do free running and I do use a Chuckit launcher too but for performance dogs I am always conscious of not letting them get too much drive satisfaction from a self rewarding exercise or outside of a training session. If I want to use drive I would rather expend it in a constructive training session. Not saying I don't do it - but I am conscious of it and limit how much I do. Restricting those types of exercises can definitely impact on performance.

Lol guys this is a joke video. I don't do agility but it gave me a laugh!

We have a few articles on canine fitness on our website (scroll down to find the canine fitness section) http://k9pro.com.au/services/knowledge-base/ I don't believe keeping your dog fit and healthy could be a fad, it makes performance better and helps to prevent injury. We do a range of things including utitlizing Fitpaws equipment to build muscle and core strength, treadmills, swimming, walking/jogging etc. We also use natural performance supplements and do notice a difference in recovery and endurance when using them. we feed Super Fuel in daily meals and give the dogs Go Dog before and after heavy training sessions/work outs.

Definitely see a reputable behaviourist (I personally wouldn't say it has to be a vet behaviourist - a reputable behaviourist will have a lot of experience in anxiety cases) ASAP. But in the meantime I would restrict her freedom in the house. Don't let her have free run - crate her, have her outside, have a pen set up inside the house so she has somewhere she can be when you aren't watching her or interacting with her.

Oh I am sure if you go at 'off peak' times, you are statistically less likely to run into issues as there will be less dogs around. There are obviously ways to minimize the risk, but as I said the reason I don't go to dog parks now is because I just don't have any reason or desire to go there. It serves no purpose to me to have my dogs run around off leash with strange dogs. If I want to exercise them I take them for a walk or jog with me; swim them; there's a quiet open field I often use to let them run around; we also use treadmills and FitPaws equipment to develop core strength and muscle etc. I understand other people like to use dog parks and that's up to them if they want to use them - but it's not my cup of tea.

I'm sure some people do go to dog parks without experiencing any incidents that bother them. When I used to take my dogs to dog parks (a long time ago now) we saw frequent fights and other issues, there would be incidents on a daily basis. I'm sure this has clouded my judgement of dog parks and certainly stopped me using them. Now however the experience I previously had in dog parks isn't the reason I don't go there, I just have no use or interest for them anymore. I don't have any desire to take my dog to a park so they can play with other dogs we encounter. It serves no purpose for me.

LOL yep this one is getting quite side tracked! :)

A lot of people have a reliable recall and it fades over time because they become complacent with their training. Steve must have told me a million times that every dog needs to be taught, trained, proofed and maintained. Training a reliable recall is more than possible but like anything you train it depends on how badly you want it, how much time and effort you are willing to put in to achieve it. You probably can train any dog to do just about anything, but how well it can perform will differ as will how much time you have to put in to achieve it. It's not about whether it is possible, it is about how bad you want it. I wouldn't say Mals are highly biddable or that bidability is the reason they are selected as MWDs etc, but they are highly driven, which means that they are easy to motivate and go harder, faster and better than most other dogs at any task they are given.

I have the utmost respect for Steve, but 100% is a big call- there are very few things in life that can truly be 100% guaranteed. A rabbit or a cat might just be too tempting for the best trained Husky 100% of the time and at every place. I do believe that very good recall can be taught to any breed but 100% seems improbable to me :) Dunno. I happy to be proven wrong though. To me 100% means the dog comes every time I call, the first time I call under any distraction. I don't see prey drive as as barrier to developing a reliable recall. I've never seen a dog with more prey drive than ours, but they will recall mid-chase from live prey. It is definitely possible! :)

It's not a popular opinion with Sibe owners but any dog can be taught to have a 100% reliable recall.

I don't agree that dogs have to learn to interact in a "pack" situation. I aim to raise my pups to have a neutral or low positive value for other dogs, that is I don't want them to see another dog and get excited or see real value in other dogs. I don't have any purpose for a dog that has a high value for other dogs, it doesn't interest or benefit me. The only skill I really want my dogs to show around other dogs is mild to no interest. Dogs don't need to meet or play with 100 other dogs to learn how to interact with other dogs appropriately. More often than not, they will end up learning bad habits and developing a high value for other dogs.

I don't have a great pic of all three so this will have to do. My babies

Hey guys, the Syn Tek collar hardware is solid stainless steel that is brass plated. Stainless steel is exceptionally strong and our collars are aimed at safety/strength first and foremost. Even high grade stainless steel will show signs of corrosion or staining but this can usually be easily wiped or polished off :)

Haha coogie I have thought about it before!!

I saw these on your website K9pro? Are they all rubber though because I am just thinking it will rub too much on her short coat... I have a leather collar and lead I use on her for everything but the beach. They don't have any padding but syn tek is different to rubber. It's a man made faux leather material that is smooth when you run your hands over it. Both my dogs are short coated and wear syn tek collars most days and I haven't had any issues with rubbing. not sure if that helps! :)

My two always wear our Syn Tek collars now. They look like leather and are soft but lighter weight and stronger. They are all weather resistant so they repel water and mud etc. I have matching leashes too! All in purple of course! I still love leather leashes and collars and prefer leather over all, but for everyday use especially for swimming or when it's wet I almost always use syn tek now.