bonny_beagle

Older rat baits contain large amounts of warfarin an anticoagulant. Anyone correct me if i'm wrong but I think the newer baits have anticholinestase poisons that dont involve impairing coagulation. Assuming he has warfarin poisoning, the antidote is vitamin k but I believe the only way to determine if enough vit k has been given is an INR (blood test), the same as humans taking therapeutic warfarin get. Goodluck and best wishes for a quick recovery for your pup. :rolleyes:

For any vaccine to be effective, it must cause the person/animal recipient to produce antibodies or seroconvert. In humans either vaccination or exposure with produce antibodies that can be found in a blood test (not done in dogs as far as I know). So although most people/animals would produce antibodies after a vaccine, there is no guarantee. I know someone who had all 3 HepB vaccinations and never produced any antibodies.

OMG what a georgeous beagle puppy!!! In my experience beagles are easy to housetrain with the all the tips already mentioned but be warned, they can be fussy about going out in the cold and sometimes dont want to get their dainty little feet wet :D If they think something fun is happening out there though you cant keep them in so during the day at least maybe take a toy out and try a couple of minutes of play, they toilet. And till he's a big dog he may expect you accompany him outside if its cold and rainy. ;)

There are still people that worm themselves regularly, despite there being no recomendation for it from any national health body (that I am aware of). Generally if you have worms you will know it! And the mebendazole that most people use only treats threadworm anyway, which you are much more likely to get from another person than your dog. I have to say I do my dogs 3 monthly but only because I have foster dogs coming and going, I used to do my girl once or twice a year and she's never had worms. I would think it would depend on how much contact with other dogs the animal has, but the wormers will only treat current infection, not prevent future ones.

he sounds heavy for a pup, maybe he could do with some exercise

I am no cavy expert but I know some breeders recommend not using dry food becuase cavy's are prone to problem skin, especially later in life, and some think the fresh diet prevents all that happening. :p I'd go with the breeder unless you find your dog is not doing well on it.

Calliech, the skin on my boy isn't as bad as the worst one's on westiemed so i'm giving him 200mg daily as a start, I read ruther on the site and they split the dose to reduce side effects which hopefully will be less of a problem with a larger dog. Unfortunately he now has a really big abcess on his neck and is on antibiotics so until I can check on the drug interactions I'm holding off on the Nizoral. The site indicates it takes weeks to work so I wont have much to report for a while but thanks again for the suggestion. In case anyone is interested in more human drugs for dogs, since starting in rescue I have been giving the dogs nausea tablets when going to their new home, to prevent car sickness on long drives. I use maxolon (metaclopramide) which I dont believe vets have but my vet ok'd it for the dogs. It's probably the most common human antiemetic and I give one 10mg tab for big dogs, 30kg and over, half for 15kg and over. Its less sedating than the ACE tablets used by some vets and probably cheaper, 25 tabs are worth about $15 if I remember correctly. I had an adoptive parent ring me the other day to find out what I use because his new boy was getting sick in the car but travelled from the Hunter Valley to Batemans Bay no probs when I gave him the tablet.

Thanks that website is great and I think it may be what he has. I got some Nizoral tabs but the human dose is 200mg daily. All the doses on the website are twice daily and are for smaller dogs. I don't suppose you have a dose for a 40kg dog??

I do the same, and a new one I spotted recently is the SOOV brand hemaroid (sp) cream which has 5% lignocaine and also hydrocortisone. It'll be behind the counter so you have to ask for it but I think is cheaper than emla and should be just as good. Another good one for jowly dogs including beagles that get mushy fungal chins is the daktarin oral gel that is for oral thrush in humans. If you are getting a vet script for any human oral meds, most pharmacies will fill it but its worth phoning around for a private (not NHS) price as it WILL vary between pharmacies. Also a question calliech, I have a lab with chronic itchy skin and the vet has mentioned a yeasty smell about him (I dont notice it but might be just used to it). The miconazole wash didn't seem to improve the itch so I gave him a difflucan once tablet (women use it for vaginal thrush) and no improvement there. I can get my hands on other oral antifungals if need be. Any suggestions?

No problem

Suggested does from 'First Aid for Dogs' polaramine body weight <10kg - 2mg 10-30kg - 4mg over 30kg - 6mg Claratyne 10mg tablets <20kg - half tablet over 20kg - 1 tablet listes polaramine, phenergan, telfast, claratyne and zyrtec as suitable for dogs

Assuming diabetes works the same way with dogs as with humans..... The principles of managing diabetes are centered around maintaining a reasonably low blood glucose. Glucose is an essential energy source for the brain and red blood cells so the idea is to feed a consistant amount of carbohydrate (which is broken down into glucose) and titrate insulin levels to achieve good blood glucose control. If the dog is eating a dry food in even quantities each day then you will achieve this. The reason insulin dependant diabetics lose weight before diagnosis is that they absorb glucose from their carb intake into the blood but without insulin cannot use it as an energy source. It builds up in the blood and is excreted in the urine, so they are getting no energy out of the carbs they are eating. Sugar is a carbohydrate and so is rice, bread, pasta, fruit the list goes on, all will affect the blood glucose. Protein however will not directly afftect blood glucose levels, neither will lipids (fats), although as mentioned fat breakdown involves the liver. By all means check everything with the dogs vet but I would think adding extra protein (fresh meat) and fat (as a supplement with vitamins) to the diet should help put weight on, without compromising blood glucose control. I believe signs of hyperglycaemia (high blood glucose) would be the same in dogs as humans - excessive drinking and excessive urination. Both hypo and hyperglycaemia can cause coma, if the dog is non-responsive at any time it will need immediate vet attention. I must say though that I know nothing about diabetes management in dogs, I just hope some background might help you feel a bit more confident.

I'm now looking into an ecollar but for the mean time going very low-tech - lead. Two walks so far, one yesterday afternoon and again this morning, on a long lead, no cow chasies which is good. He could see them and was interested but couldn't go near them and did not get too agitated at being restrained. Thanks again for all the great advice.

Either but ideally fix it. I am more used to dogs that will walk through a paddock full of stock and not pay any notice, so I know its possible, just not sure how to make it happen for this dog

He is in a one acre fenced yard most of the time but I take the dogs for a run in the paddock once or twice a day. I will try leaving him in or only taking him on a lead. Thanks for the advice.

You mean an electric collar?

Not harsh at all, these are my concerns - how do I stop him though?

Luckily there are no sheep here and the cows are very understanding, they are used to dogs and very quiet. Best she is away from tempation altogether though I imagine for a beagle the hares and roos would be far more tempting than the stock! How is the big girl? Tara suits her :D

I've done a quick forum search on this topic but didn't find what I was looking for. I have a 3yo desexed male lab that religiously chases our 6 cows and horse (separate paddocks) whenever he spots them. He barks alot and seems to like moving them about, but after a couple of minutes or if they get to a corner he comes back. He seems to be enjoying himself but I think the cows are over it. He's been here several months but on arrival couldn't run due to health issues, so it's only been a few weeks that's hes been at it. He ignores me completly once he spots them. I'm really not sure if he's just chasing or herding or what. My initial thought was to chain him after he chased, but we're always out in the paddock and by the time we get home it feels like its too late for him to know what the punnishment would be for. Any tips welcome as I've got 3 month old foster pups looking like they'd like to join in.

Are your pups possibly related?? Look forward to many more weeks of this behaviour. It takes them a while to settle down. My sugestion would be since you work, borrow a puppy friendly dog off a friend to mind your bub when you're not home. Another beagle would be perfect. :p As a pack dog this is a very stressful time and he's expecting you to replace his missing brothers and sisters. Be patient!!!