bonny_beagle

I went to a lecture with the woman who did the dalmatian study. She didn't stress the importance of any particular ingredient, she seemed proud that the chum chrunchy got such good results as it's cheap so accessable to all dog owners. She basically said for dry kibble get one that is AFFCO certified, that you pay for what you get. You can also check crude protein against total protein to check if there is any non-protein nitrogen added. It also depends on what they like so maybe narrow down to a couple and let the dogs decide?

this article deals with diet to reduce urinary precipitates in dalmatians, feeding time was relevant une article eta - AAFCO does not specify any different nutrient profile for senior dogs, the products will have the same nutrient profiles as for adult dogs, though possibly lower fat as seniors tend to be less active and spend more time sleeping, but generally seniors require less energy and high quality protein. There is evidence that vitamin E supplements as antioxidants can benefit seniors.

Check it is AAFCO certified as complete. Dogs don't need carbohydrate, so a higher protein diet isn't a problem as long as it's balanced.

Alot of NSAID's aren't expensive e.g aspirin, but meloxicam is one of the newer ones. Meloxicam at pharmacies comes in 7.5mg and 15mg and retails at $19-$25 for 30 tabs, not sure what vet prices are for tabs though.

Terrific thanks horus and raineth, will look into those

From the lack of literature, I'm starting to think it's all marketing and no substance too. This is for an assignment so greymate if you come accross that article, please let me know. Thanks.

I'm researching dog food, particularly lifestage diets and breed specific diets. I can't find any information about the basis for breed specific diets other than the usual marketing spiels from the manufacturers. Is anyone aware of any literature about these formulations? Thanks.

most intestinal all womers are about the same, if they are listed as all womers, but if you are unsure, look at the ingredients listed on the ones you get from the vet and then check against the ingredients in the ones you are buying online and buy ones with the same. where do you get your fecal counts done and do they do counts for all species? (the dpi counts for horses and cattle only do some species)

Buy small bags of premium food till you find one he likes. In the mean time, I've looked after lots of puppies over the years and almost all will eat Optimum from the supermarket, I think its fine for short term. If he's not 100% keen on it, add lactose free UHT milk (same as puppy milk) till he gets used to it. I'd be surprised if he turns his nose up at biscuits with milk, it's always been a winner for healthy pups for me.

I can't imagine Savlon would hurt applied to skin, there are several first aid creams with chlorhex, all are probably thicker than the lotion. Be aware if it's not an animal product that the dog isn't licking alot of it off and ingesting large amounts. I wouldn't put anything that thick in ears though, could cause more problems than it would solve.

Same is true for ramipril, another ACE inhibitor, comes in various strengths, similar cost depending on strength. It's worth phoning around for costs as vet scripts are classes as private so prices can vary more between pharmacies than they would for people scripts. It's also cheaper to get a script for 3 months supply and only pay one dispense fee e.g. 22.70 would be wholesale + markup (much smaller than vet markup) + dispense fee (maybe $7) for 30 approx 54.10 for 3 boxes ($18.03 per box) Being a vet script means you can have as many repeats as you want as well e.g. 10 repeats.

Neither the eating of fat nor carbs causes diabetes. Being fat predisposes to type 2 diabetes. The same amount of glucose ends up in the blood stream whether from refined carbs (sugars) or unrefined. Complex carbs have more dietary value.

A search of the phone number brings up a DogsNSW breeders directory from October 2008 where the kennel name is listed three times, under Australian Silky Terrier, Lhasa Apso, Shih Tzu. It doesn't take long to see she is advertising lots of puppies all over the web, under different usernames, email addresses and phone numbers. Also adult dogs free.

Interesting but I can't see how those figures are remotely accurate. The 2006 survey was only 1000 people and those figures for desexing is not what I see. As for the tiny % of animals needing the services of a pound, the question posed was in relation to a lost animal, they weren't asked if they dumped any animals at all, so in reference to the total population data that is even less representative because for dumped animals the service provided is often to destroy them. Sorry am not convinced, in fact it's disturbing to me where this comes from and if reading it anywhere else would have assumed it was pure propaganda from the pet shop industry.

By the time I tried the DAP spray I had almost learned to sleep through the wanders and barking. I think it depends on the dog. It didn't work like turning a switch but I would say there was a degree of improvement. If nothing else it was worth it for me to feel like I was doing something positive for the situation and had a plan of action in place to manage the behaviour. I got the spray not the diffuser so it was a one off cost, and there's other situations it can be useful. We started the dog food at the same time so it's hard to say where the benefit came from. Unfortunately she now has pemphigus foliaceus so is getting a home cooked diet.

There is a special food you can get, I think it is hills b/d I also tried DAP (dog appreasing pheremone) spray for a senior who developed the night wanders/night barking. You can spray it on a bandanna or cloth and tie it around their neck. I think routine is also recommended for seniors with signs of dementia, possibly is reassuring for them.

I prefer spray Betadine to the ointment, is not harmful if licked off. Vetwrap is a must for a doggy first aid kit. In NSW you can get chloromycetin ointment if you have an understanding pharmacist or otherwise say you have conjunctivitis. Saline comes in 5/10ml polyamps or the large bottles used for contact lenses. Both are sterile saline, but once you have opened the big bottles, they are no longer sterile and don't keep so most use the polyamps for first aid purposes.

Extra protein is ok as long as her kidneys are fine as protein is filtered by the kidneys. An easy way would be some pure fat, e.g. olive oil, added to whatever her usual food is. That gives her extra calories without causing problems with her blood sugar.

Probably lots more experienced than me but no way I would be just giving milk. For young pups try 5 feeds a day and reduce as they can tolerate down to 3-4 once they are over 8 weeks. I use lactose free UHT milk because it's easier than making formula and some pups prefer the taste, but either way you need to add solids. I use fresh beef mince to start then move on to soaked or rehydratable puppy biscuits for the nutrients. Best to warm it before feeding them. Other solids for pups would include cooked chicken or cooked mashed veg. Get them on a feeding schedule, that should help them settle. eta, just me but I would usually only give one milk only meal per day, expecially rescue bubs

So sorry to hear that. If it was parvo and your dogs are vaccinated there is little risk surely. I'm not sure what pound your pup came from but please consider that if every pup showing any sign common to parvo - lack of appetite, nausea, diarrhoea, or vomiting was destroyed instead being released there would be alot pups killed due to minor and treatable gastro. It's always good to ask about recent bowel habits when collecting a pup from the pound.

If he cannot tolerate oral fluids the only option is subcut or iv fluids or he will have no chance. He is likely already dehydrated. Is there another vet you can call? to be fair if the public holidays and cost is an issue its kinder to just have him pts now. My only suggestion in the interim is syringed oral fluids, preferably electrolytes, but very small amounts. Maybe 2mL every 10mins, they can absorb some bucally so small and often optimises the chance of absoption without irritating the stomach. Still, they sometimes tolerate that for a few hours and then do a big water vomit which only increases dehydration. And it's critical to keep track of the amounts given (do not include any given 2 hours before a vomit) so you can report to the vet, and it is almost impossible to adequately rehydrate in this way at this point, its just a stop gap. Good luck.

Just a reminder, tomorrow's the big day!

HAR is having it's annual picnic day in just a few weeks. Everyone welcome including dogs (on lead).

Liza I'm betting shes 20kg, not pounds, pick her up and you'll have your answer, 10kg you can hold up off the ground with one arm, 20kg is definitely a two arm job. It takes time to see progress with weight loss and exercise is just as important as the right amount of food. Try feeding once a day, she will get used to it in no time

Are you getting the Keppra through your vet or a pharmacy? If its a pharmacy, because its for a dog and not on the PBS, the price will VARY, possibly ALOT. Ring around a few pharmacies and ask for a private price. As for buying from overseas, quality does vary in some countries, places like UK, US, Canada should be fine, be wary of other places. If you buy from overseas you are technically importing medicine and there are some very strict rules in place. That said, its unlikely customs will be on your back if its small quantities and you hold a vet script at home.