Andisa

I should have looked properly before posting another thread about dehydrators. Will be watching here to see other suggestions.

Ok - I have finally got a dehydrator and at the moment I have hotdogs and cheap processed meats in it doing it's thing. Next I will be doing liver. For those who make make dog treats in a food dehydrator - what do you do and how long do you have it on for? How long does it keep for? Mine is only a cheapie and doesn't have a great book on what to do with it - definately not incuding what I wanted it for. For meats if says to cook first then marinate and slice /place on tray with their suggestion including a fair amount of salt to help dehydration. Now for dogs I won't be adding salt - do I leave it plain or add anything at all? Any idea much appreciated.

Yep - worked for Piper too.

Sorry to read this Scouty - RIP Scout.

Oops - I ment to say only the tunnel survived. and it has had the roughest treatment.

I paid a whopping $25 for a kids set of the tunnel, tee pee and the tent. I got them from the Reject shop in Fountain gate, but I would imagine all the stores would have them. Also came in PINK camo. All but the tunnel have survived but they had a ball.

I had a lot of trouble finding them too - each time I was after them they were out of stock. Narre warren and Cranbourne is where I got mine. Ask your local Bunnings to order them in for you - they will.

Love them too. Don't know how many I bought - had trouble getting them though so got more than I needed. Set this up as a practice run for Christmas, went to parents, new house and their fences were not puppy proof. Found the metal wires provided were too easily wiggle down and the pups escaped. Cable ties are the way to go and clips from the leads or velcro for the gates.

I have seen this too, but as the dog eats more of them they are better able to digest them. You can give them a digestive powder from the vets to help with digestion if worried about it.

I have always fed Lamb necks, but one of my Rottie girls broke a canine tooth at 10 months old the night before she was to go to a new home. I noticed it the morning when I was going over her before her new owners came to get her. I told them, showed them, said to keep an eye on it as the tooth may need to be removed later on. Intstead they took her to a Dental vet and had the tooth capped - $800 later. She had her 3 month check up, all was well, she is now able to eat brisket bones and chicken, pork and roo, but no more lamb necks. I have always fed lamb necks but this is the first time one of mine has broken a tooth because of them. Just keep an eye on their teeth. The vet said that she must have got her tooth in the hole where the marrow goes through it and as she bit down it must have snapped her tooth. This doesn't happen often, but be aware it does. I now feed more of the brisket instead now as I would hate to see another one break a tooth. I still feed necks, I think they are a good meal.

As long as your pup is eating the wings without choking I wouldn't be worried. We got Lizzy (Pug) at 9 weeks old she was eating wings and necks from the day we got her. I would imagine a 10 kw old beagle should be able to eat wings without any problems at all. My Rottie pups have been eating chicken wings since they were 7 weeks old a long with necks and frames. By 8 weeks they were giving lamb necks a good go. As the pups get older they get better and quicker at eating bones and are better able to digest them. JMO - but each to their own. ;)

Jana, So sorry to read this and such a young age too. Rip :rolleyes: Huckie, gone but not forgotten.

Every vet does not have the same overheads and expenses including paying off machines, staffing costs, rent etc etc etc. It is these things that influence the prices which they set. Yes that is true - for every business to remain productive. Makes me appreciate my vets even more...

I see what you mean, I love my vets here and would have gone to them yesterday for the visit - but more for the benefit of the dogs that they not be in the car longer than necessary is the reason I went locally. I was not vet bashing at all - even though it may have come across like that to some, but when prices vary so much for the simpler tasks I just don't get it...as it was she could not even read the ultrasound machine so I am still none the wiser, no definite "yes" or "no". But since there was no obvious signs of puppies I have accepted it as a "no". I don't mind paying for the ultrasound at all, otherwise it would not have been done, just not being confirmed either way sucks to have paid for it and still not know one way or the other. Next time I will just chose a better day and make the drive.

A specialist radiographer charges $50-60 for an ultrasound? That is less than a normal vet consult in many parts of Sydney. No I was talking about puppies vaccs and an ultrasound to confirm pregnancy. My usual vet is a reproduction specialist. Perhaps I should have made that clearer to save confusion.

Well I guess it's my fault for not going to my regular vet. Because it was so hot I decided to go closer so the dogs did not have to be in the car for longer than necessary (even with the a/c on). By not going to my regular vet (repo specialist) it was around $80 + more than what I would have normally paid. I have paid $40 - $45 for vaccine and microchipping per puppy, if there is no profit in doing pups at these prices I am sure that the vets would have to increase their costs considerable... As for ultrasound costs. I have only ever paid around $50 - $65 for them. No idea why anyone would charge hundreds, I sure as hell would never pay that...

Would you be complaining if it was your animal that the vet was taking an extra amount of time to examine or urgently needed attending to in its hospital cage?? I get a little bored of people bagging out vets here for charges. If people think their vet overcharges or overservices then change vets. Edited to add not aimed at OP as I don't read her post that way! I think vet charges are quite reasonable. Wish I was as understanding as you Sheridan... 3 puppy vaccs and ultrasound. $259.80. (including the so called 10% off for breeders rates) Don't know about you - but to me that is not what I would call reasonable....

This is what I was going to say too. 2 yrs ago I helped a client change their elderly nasty little Maltese x over to a raw natural diet including Barf. At first he went through a shocking stage, I was so worried that I rang another raw feeder, she reminded me of the "Detox" stage. Well that poor little bugger had to Detox a life time of crap out of his system, he suffered badly, almost to the point of me suggesting to go back to his normal diet. It took a good month or so before the poor boy saw the light and did it shine bright for him. He was no longer a nasty little turd, but also was able to grow a nice thick coat, something that in the 5 yrs that I groomed him - I had not seen, even his owners couldn't remember him ever having such a nice coat and he lost his stinky dog smell due to his shocking skin condition - that was cleared up too. The people who make Phuds also have a detox product that can be added to their food, this is what I would suggest to anyone having a hard time with dogs detoxing during the change over period. Good luck with your dog, hope your not too frightened to continue with the change over.

"ACV" Apple Cider Vinegar, or in Andisa's case (AVC) .... Apple Vinegar Cider . Sorry Andisa .... just stirring Oh bugger Erny - no point going back to fix it up now. It's good stuff - what ever you want to call it. It's late. I should be in bed.

You should be able to get 5 liters of AVC at the produce stores for around $20. I stopped it for a while and noticed skin problems again, since starting adding it too their food and water they are improving.. here too.

Necks are fine, depends on the dog eating them I think. My 3.5kg Maltese used to manage them just as good as the 46kg Rottweiler. But if your dog inhales them then probably best feeding something larger.

I really like the Wahl Km2 clippers. Not sure about being the best as I have killed a couple of sets already. BUT they are nice and comfy to hold, don't get warm fast. Although in the beginning they will, as you improve your time will be cut down not taking so long. If they do warm up, stop and have a break. Since your dog has a thick coat you will need to anyway if your using the one set of clippers, another suggestion would be an extra blade as they do get warm. You don't want to clipper burn your dog. Check the warmth of the blade by touching it, chances are if it is too warm for you then it already is too warm for your dog. I think the best price that you will get them at is Clipper World , they advertise on DOL and are in Cranbourne, Vic. Good luck.

Ah - ceramic blades... I hate them.. They were great until they needed to be sharpened. I have taken them in to be done several times and they have never been any good since. I go to the same bloke that has been doing them for ever. He tells me often how good they are, a friend who clips horses hates them too. My clipper bloke has offered to replace them with normal blades before, I have tried to give them a reasonable go, might swap them yet. I purchased a #7 to begin with, loved it - heaps. Bought #5, #4, and #10 after wards and now hate all of them. They just sit in the container, when I am getting low on sharp blades I will give them go now and them, makes no difference on the breed that I try them on, they are useless for me. They have been sharpened and I have wondered if they could be too sharp or just not done right. Don't know - just hate them. My clippers are Wahl km2 so they should be fine with the blades. It's up to you what you do, maybe someone will come in and rave about how good they are, hope someone does - it's been suggested that I am doing something wrong. Apart from using as per instructions - don't know what I am not doing right... Oh and the cost was the same but not many people who sharpen blades do them right or have the correct equipment. I know the bloke I go to is great so I am not blaming him at all - just the blades.

I hardly use this drier - looks like it was in need of cleaning anyway...

Ok - mine is a different model, a friend has the same one I will ask her in the morning what she does to clean the filters. But the filter at the rear is the same as mine just remove it. I find it easier to wedge it off using the teeth on a comb. I have been trying for ages to load photos but photo bucket is being a p***k at the moment. Will try again later.