whatevah

BEG Uses Good party trick. Looks cute Equipment Needed Dog that is 12 mths or over and is in a good physical condition, with no problems with lower back or hips. Not good for long backed breeds. Food/clicker. LURE METHOD Step 1. Off lead. Get dog into sit position. When dog is sitting make sure it is a straight sit. The dog won;t be able to hold a beg position, if it is a puppy sit. I have tried. You will be in front of your dog. Step 2. You stand or kneel in front of your dog depending on its size. Get a piece of food the dog likes and slowly, very slowly lure the dog into position. Reward for small bits at first, like the head going up, then the dog standing up. Step 3. When the dog can balance start increasing the time before he gets the reward. I tell my dog "wait" when he hold a beg for a second, I say "YES" then reward it. Step 4. I used to click when the dog was in position, but my signal for beg is two hands in a begging position, so that when you click the clicker may be near the dogs ear. The dog may not like that, so I used the YES word instead. You may also want to only reward while the dog is in position. I did a little bit of both. Also once the dog has the idea, stop luring and only give food once the dog gets it right. TARGET METHOD Step 1. Teach the dog to put his nose on your two fingers, click and reward that. Repeat about 30 times. Step 2. Have dog in position, and put your fingers just out of the dogs reach, when he raises up to touch your fingers, click and reward. Step 3. Gradually raise your hands higher and higher. Step 4. When he is comfortable with the position start to ask for longer and longer begs. ADVANCED Add more distance so that the dog can hold the beg while you are a couple of feet away. Get the dog to hold a toy in its mouth and beg at the same time. TROUBLE SHOOTING Dog cannot hold position for long. That was my problem too. The dog needs to build up strength in the rear legs. Also raise your hand up slower and put it slight over the top of the dogs head. This trick took months for my dogs to learn. You just have to perservere or teach an easier tick and come back to it. FINAL NOTE You may know a better or easier way that has worked for you, please share it with the forum and post some photos.

Thanx heaps for the replys. I think the general concensus is that you feed your dogs raw eggs but only a couple of times a week? I won';t be giving them shells though, I don';t want them to steal.

Are eggs safe to feed dogs? How often can you feed dogs eggs? Can you give them the whole egg? My chooks are laying heaps of eggs and we cannot keep up.

That is a great photo and very cute!!!!

How about teaching your dog to retrieve, could come in really useful for a lot of tricks. I would be careful about the hind legs trick at such a young age. Also teach the dog to enjoy swimming. Swimming is one of the best exercises, and when you mix it with retrieving the dogs love it. You could try teaching crawl. Do some target work. Do heeling on both left and right. Teach dog to walk backwards in a straight line. For agility you could buy a little cheap tunnel from Crazy Clints and teach the dog to run through it.

My next trick will be coits. That is where you teach your dog to pick up a hoop and put it on the pole. I demonstrated this trick at the Pet & Animal Expo at Caulfield. Bow is very hard!!!

I wouldn't teach your wei this trick until the dog is at least 18months to 2 years old. This trick can really be taught to any breed that can comfortably jump over your back. Not a trick for toy breeds. Then you have to be strong enough that you don't mind them landing on your back for a short time. I think if you were 5ft and were trying to teach this to a NewFoundland you may run into troubles.

I was watching my dog today as we were walking through a park, he started walking very slowly and watching where he was putting his feet. I had a closer look and he was actually side stepping dog poo!!! Such a sensitive boy didn't want to walk through it. If you leave toys outside, the dog gets used to them, so you may want to rotate them around a bit.

I use a mixture of food and toys. I use toys for drive, and food more for accuracy. when I teach him weave poles, he drives through them because he knows that his toy is waiting at the end if he does it right. In agility I used food to get the contacts right. Here is a picture of him weaving for his tennis ball.

Thats another way of teaching it. Like I said I just made up my own way. Do you have any photos of the steps involved. It would be great if you could attach them. Photos make things so much clearer. Thanks for the info. I used a stick over my arm when I taught Moses to jump over my arms. Do you know of any other tricks you could add to this site or easier ways of teaching other tricks?

With Josh did obedience for 12 months, he got totally bored. I then did tracking with him, he loved it, but I was totally bored. Did some flyball and he got his FDCh. But I worry about injuries, and flyball is very political. Did some agility with him, but saw the height he had to jump and thought no way. Did Lure coursing, and he and I both loved it, but because he is a big dog there is no where, where we can do this regularly. Though at the pet and pony expo spoke to some deer hound people and they said some of the site hound clubs let non sight hound dogs have a go. Also have done some retrieving with him and entered a retrieving trial. He loves retrieving. Also done a few tricks with him. I also quite regularly will go to dog fun days and enter fun comps, have won heaps of stuff. The Pet & Pony Expo at Rosebud said they want me to demo next year but I am not allowed to enter their fun comps. With Moses (toller) have done obedience tracking (small amount) flyball (he has his FDCh) Agility (planning to compete this year, still working on weavers) Lurecoursing (he loves it) Dog Tricks Retrieving (just been to a couple of training sessions) Dog Fun Days I found that a lot of dog sports compliment each other. Obedience helped with agility, I have the dogs attention. But I had to work at getting him to work on the right. Flyball helped with retrieving, and working with a huge amount of distractions and going and working by himself without me at his side. Tricks helped him to learn quicker.

I usually fill up the holes with dog poo. They won't dig in that hole again, but might start others, this has always worked for me. It also gets rid of all the dog poo in the yard.

I agree with the advice already given, and would take him to puppy classes. Also read some books on how to deal with it. I have a toller as well. In the first year I would use about a kilo of meat a week in training him. A toller is a breed that needs a lot of training, everyday. They are quick to learn. Take the dog to an obedience club, and work through the classes.

Most of these tricks in this forum you can start straight away. Anything that involves jumping, depending on breed of dog, wait until 18 months. Getting your dog to enjoy water, I would start straight away and also retrieving.

Moses over the back and on his way, waiting for the toy. I also have a couple of videos of this trick on my web site, one of beginning stages and one of the finished product.

In the last photo Moses is actually landing on Steff's back for about a second.

Now Moses is jumping over my daughters back. I am sending him from a distance so you cannot see me. He running out forward because once he jumps over her back, he gets rewarded with the throw of a tennis ball.

Okay here are the showoff photos in the front nature strip. My daughter is providing the back, against a lot of protests, and the neighbours laughter. Reason being I cannot film and be a "back" at the same time. But to create distance you can tell the dog to wait, then tell him over. Or get him to run around an object and on the way back he jumps over your back. Was going to film that, but Steff didn't want to do any more filming anymore. Teenagers!!!

Here is the next photo of the series, Moses coming back the other way. Please excuse my butt. ) The first two photos are the beginning stages.

I saw this trick on a video, and taught it to Moses. I have not seen how you are supposed to teach it, but this is how I taught it. Trick: Jump Over My Back Uses: Show off trick, maybe useful if you cannot afford agility equipment Equipment: Food/Toys/Clicker/Helpful Friend, Suitable Clothing (singlet not advised). Prerequisite: Handy to know the word "over". Only teach this trick to your dog if he is big enough, and at least 12 months old, preferably 18 months. If you are 6 foot tall and you have a papillion, or some other lap/toy dog, this may not be the trick for you. Step 1 Get yourself into a doorway, and either get a friend to stand on the other side and lure the dog over your back using food, and or toys. Wear something more than a singlet or t-shirt or you may get scratched. Step 2 Try to progress to showing the dog the food and throwing it on the other side of you. The dog may try and cheat and run around you, that is why I start in a door way. If you have a clicker, you may click when the dogs paws hit your back. Step 3 Gradually work yourself further away from the doorway, this may take a few sessions, but take your time, there is no hurry. Step 4 Now take the trick outside, video, take photos and showoff to all your friends. Please see attached photos of inside and outside. Advanced Combine this trick with run around the pole, see archived trick section for how to teach this trick. I tell Moses, "around" he then runs around an object in the distance and then comes back and jumps over my back.

I have a toller also. He rarely barks. Even when we do flyball he does not bark. I absolutely hate barking dogs. Tollers are very smart dogs, you have to get rid of any bad habit before they become engraved. I have taught him to bark on command and he won 3rd in most talkative dog. When I got Moses, he would start barking with excitement as I was getting his food ready, so I stopped what I was doing, then when he was quiet I started making his food again. But I have trained moses with a clicker from day 1. I find that clicker training sessions really tire him out. Here is my web page http://www.dogtrick.741.com I would take your dog to obedience lessons, get some training books, give clicker a go. Here is the link for a toller website http://myfreebulletinboard.com/f2/index.php?mforum=toller Where is your location? Are you in Melbourne? There is a great book shop in Boronia. Whatever you do with the dog you have to be consistent, don't let him get away with it ever. Also be wary about teaching to bark, for some dogs it makes it worse for others it improves it. I know a guy who had a sheltie, who taught it to bark and it never shuts up. After I taught Moses to bark on command, he would start barking when frustrated so I ignored it, and he stopped doing it. At flyball training I always made sure that when he wasn't working, he had nice bone to chew on in his crate, so he never got into the habit of barking. At my obedience club we did ties up. You train your dog not to bark while it is tied up. You tie your dog to a post, and walk 3 feet away and then come back to the dog, and give him a food reward. You then extend the time gradually and then extend the distance. If you dog starts to bark you have made it too hard. At my obedience club as at most club, instructors will waffle on, meanwhile the dog is getting anxious because it wants to work. So what I do is tell the dog to stay and then step one pace behind him and listen to the instructor and every now and then reward the dog, and the do the stay again. This way the dog is working and you can listen to the instructor and you are getting a lot of stay practice in.

I have also PMed you, I am interested as Josh loves this. He especially loves the water retrieves, would like to give Moses a go too. With dog training my rules are If dog is not understanding what you are trying to teach, try a different way. There are many different ways to teach weaving poles. If the dog is still having problems, give it a break and train something else and come back to it later. This works great with Moses. I was teaching him coits. To put a hoop on a stick, it was little hard, then I gave it a break for a month or so, and then he learned much quicker and got the hang of it. If you are still having problems get someone to watch you and give advice. If a dog is having a behaviour problem try and fix as soon as possible, before it becomes engrained and becomes a habit it get worse. Moses used to bark while I was getting his food ready, I stopped getting his food ready till he stopped barking. Problem fixed. Some problems take longer to fix than others. As for Ego, I think all dog training is Ego. Why do people compete in obedience, agility, flyball and showing. The dog doesn't care if it doesn't get letters after its name or a trophy. Why is the handler so disappointed when dog doesn't go well. As for showing off. We went to Rosebud Pet & Pony Expo and won best trick. We are now banned from entering the fun comps next year, but they want us to do a demo for eveyone. My obedience club also wants me to do a demo next year. I love hearing peoples comments and laughter when I do my dog tricks. People love watching Josh do his flying leap into the water, they get their kids to watch. Watch this clip for lots of dogs doing fantastic show off things in canine freestyle. http://landofpuregold.com/reb.wmv

My flatcoat retriever is a laid back dog, he learned flyball fast because he likes retrieving. His agility was good too. In agility he is a velcro dog. He has a fantastic temperament and is not aggressive. He loves to stay by me. I use him to take on my newspaper round, as he does not leave my side. My other dog is a toller, he is a little more hyper. When I got him I started training him straight away and got rid of bad habits as soon as they crept in. On day 1 he would bark when I was getting his food ready, so I stopped what I was doing and only continued when he was quiet. This quickly got rid of the barking. I have started competing in Flyball with him, and he does not bark in his crate or while ready to race. This dog is also a very super quick learner. People tell me that the reason my dogs don;t bark is because that they are the type of dogs that don't bark!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! At the moment in flyball he decides that he would like two balls. He runs to box 1 and gets the ball and then runs to box 2 and also gets that ball. Only does it in competitions which makes it frustrating. In his first flyball comp he did not make a single mistake and got his FD and FDX, but at the second comp someone had a squeaky toy outside the ring, and since then he has been stuffing up. So I am not competing anymore with him until I get this mistake sorted out and add distractions etc. To stop him barking in his crate, firstly I did not let the habit start in the first place. Whenever he was in the crate I just threw a bone in for him to chew. With my toller he learns so quickly that it is a pleasure to train, I taught him to ring a bell in 5 minutes. I just looked at the bell and he went and rung it. LabLover probably not going to compete in anymore retrieving trials. As from what I understand to get a title you have to come first and that will never happen. They should make it that you just have to get a good pass to get a title like all the other dog sports. I am still interested in training weekends and training days, as I find these are much more fun. Josh still loves doing flying leaps into the water. I have a web site now at http://www.dogtrick.741.com and if click on teach your dog to swim, there is a short video of Josh doing his flying leap into the water.

Okay I discussing the other day with someone about hyper dogs and laid back dogs. She said hyper dog breeds were much better at agility and flyball. They were much better in the speed department. She said the more laid back breeds were more accurate then the hyper breeds. This is a big generalisation here. I know there is an exception to every rule. My question is just say you have a choice between getting a hyper dog breed, I am talking about working breeds. Now you have a crystal ball, and you know that this dog is going to excel at dog sports, meaning agility, flyball, obedience, tracking etc. This dog is quick to learn and a pleasure to teach, sometimes he anticipates though. Is not 100% reliable but still really good. But the downside is that this dog will have more issues such as being more aggressive around other dogs, barking a lot. The other choice is the more laid back no issues dog. He has no issues, is great with people and dogs. He rarely barks, but his down side is that he does not learn as quick. But once he learns it he has got it. Which do you choose? Remember I am generalising here, and I know there are exceptions to every rule.

That is great. I had the same problem as you with my flatcoat retriever he would not do the sit part or handle a dumbell and then I stumbled onto Shirley Chongs method. I even emailed her and asked her the same question about the sit. If you are following the steps, and taking your time and not rushing the dog, I would add it in a the step where you are clicking the height that the dog has to raise the dumbell before clicking. I would then have the dog raise the dumbell knee high and ask for sit, c/t for the sit and hold. Reason is since he is raising it high, would be easier for him to sit, but depends on the size of your dog. Also keep your hands out of the way, as the dog sees your hands and may think he has to spit it out. You could also email ShirleyChong and ask her. She is the expert.