Dogsfevr

In our puppy contract all must be spayed by 6 months.If they come in season before this time they are told to wait until after the season ,never to get in down whilst in season( we care for the dog at this time if its a problem) We have never had any bitch with mammary cancer & whilst we spay our retired bitches they could be 8-9 years old.I dont believe a vet could claim a 100% reduce risk though. Even now all our bicthes nipples etc are checked. We also apply this same principal to grooming clients as many owners never check there dogs testicles or there bitches nipples etc etc for changes, We have over the years picked up alot of cancers the owners never new about . Its a shame she wont be shown especially if she has all the potential as she would be a great asset to the trainee judges plus letting the reed being scene. Showing is very easy to learn & plenty of helpers in the Terrier grp.

"Irresposible owners hadn't vaccinated those poor puppies, and now the risk seems a bit too real for our puppy. " Vacc or not they can still get it. The vacc provides a fighting chance . There will be a common area that those dogs who have got will have been (ie school oval,dog beach,dog oval ,the list goes on. The key is if your dog shows any symptons that arent normal dont wait.Parvo can kill within 24 hrs. Having said that as far as im aware all dogs carry parvo its just acase of the right situtation bringing it out & also the right vet getting the right diagnosis ,If you vacc with alive vacc it will always be positive for parvo

When you say leave ,what do you mean.In another room.home alone etc etc?? What breed?? How much mental stimulus does the pup get(that doesnt mean playing but going for walks etc etc)?? What has changed in the last 2 weeks??

chicken & pumpkin will help settle,many use rice but we prefer pumpkin.The trick is once normal t o slowly introduce one item at a time & weight a few days before adding more. At 9 weeks he may still have accidients at night but shouldnt be as many as hes having. I do now Boxers can be prone to tummies issues & one client has had great success =with royal canin boxer it isnt cheap ,having said that vet bills add up quickly & working on a more expensive diet until stabilized is well worth it. Also dont teach pup to be a grazer,you will regret it latter on. Keep in mind pup will be teething & has also lost its food comp(pups eat fats when someone else may steal it) but you dont want to allow a bad habit now. I would say the bonnie is your problem. AB & a needle to settle the tummy certainly may be needed. Dogs can go down hill very quickly.

How where they around dogs before you brought the pup home?? Do you feel they where ready for a pup due to watching them interact with friends dogs etc etc?? Did you do any pre puppy talks about what to expect ?? The reality is only you now your children & how they deal with things & you need to seriously work out what will be the best . Do you have rellies who could look after the pup for a few days & see what the reaction is from the kids with pup being away(whether they miss it,rejoice that its gone) At present it seems the pup isnt overwhelmed by there behavior which could make some dogs fearful but an area you mst watch for. What is the best option who knows but i wouldnt rule out rehoming if its in the best interest of the pup. The vicdogs website has a section on children & dogs which is really good.We print out colour copies to go in our puppy folders, I think its part of the govt programme . Maybe print it off & let the kids havea look & talk it over with them.Use a stuffed toy as a educator .

What else do you feed or are you feeding just mixed dry.?? Are you using puppy milks,beef mince etc etc?? We had used Boonie for years as one of are alternative biscuits with the boarders but they have changed the ingredients some where & we no longer use it as the dogs where getting loose tummies to often given the small quantity of dry we use. Eagle Pack Holistic gave my boy the squirts big time . My boy has had the best results for settling his tummy on prop plan puppy selects but its $120 plus dollars. Personally i would be cooking up chicken mince & pumpkin & giving that for 2 weeks. I would also go to the chemist & buy some Flora max tablets which will help re establish the good gut bacteria & i would use that for a couple of months. You can get a dog product called Protexin(SP) that is greta just hard to come by compared to the above. A vet visit is certainly also a must to rule at gardia or similiar

The most important thing is dont makea big deal over the crate.When pup enters good pup,when you get it out good pup,dont go troppo with praise. As this is certainly the most important point "Puppies aren't human babies- patting/cuddling/picking them up when they whinge/cry/shake just tells them that that particular behaviour gets rewarded!!" Dogs are very smart & learn this quickly

The first thingto remember is its often what humans do that encourage it in the first place.What seems cute & funny at that moment suddenly ends with the pup doing something we dont like so all "people" must make sure there not encouraging it & making it seem acceptable. Its only 8 weeks & most likley had it a few days if that.You are its new pup & play toy.Give pup some consistancy in right from wrong & in no time it will understand whats acceptable but dont rush it ,be patient. Our place just gets a simple no

Greenies give them green poo s all the time

Yep i agree pick him up at present to break the "normal routine". As already said the door maybe be open but pup obviously hasnt figured out what is expected so you needto go back to the basics. Also agree either pup has an infection or what you are feeding is high in something that makes him pee alot.

Agree he does look more typical of a red nose pittie than an AmStaff but as others have said gather all your info from the original purchase,sales reciept,puppy pack,papers & everything refferring to what the breed is otherwise yep comply but you do need to find out what you nned to do & maybe eat humble pie Chipping as staffy certainly wanst the best move by whome ever did that. It would be like me chipping my dogs as "setters" i own 3 varieties irish,english.gordon.

Like others have said be patient & consistent . If you feel after 1/2 nothing is happening walk inside & then go straight again to break the pattern. I have found with my big dogs they are very quick to learn & if they are looking like doing nothing i will get them excited & then go straight into the toilets routine. The key is to stick to what you want & use the same words. Pup feels toilet is inside because thats its normal routine at present,go outside /come inside toilet so just be quicker

I think the key point is dont expect separation anxiety or anything else.The more you tread on egg shells often the more traumatic it is for pups. Ask the breeder what the current toilet routine is.For example all our pups leave using a doggy door & having access when they need to go. You can train to tell you but it means being very "on the spot" & using a method that doesnt frustrate the pup. Some teach them to ring a bell/pull a rope to dont a bell/scratch/bark. All ours have the doggy door 24/7. Starting off in your room is fine but dont allow on the bed if in the future this isnt part of the plan.

Mine are pee feathered washed nightly,bathed fully 2-3 times a week & done in human shampoo,have done so for over 20 years with no issues. The dogs we see with skin issues are the ones not bathed regulary & not brushed out. 8 years & maintance bathed every week plus show baths every week for that time in human shampoo plus others done over the yars Um skin issues i think not

All our dogs sleep on the bed/couch & we have no issues. Respect is earnt by being consistent. You own a dog & they respect leadership by being treated as a dog & knowing the boundries & the rules which everyone must follow Spoiling creates monsters . We love every one of our dogs & yes they are considered spoilt but they now exactly where they stand & what the rules are & if i say jump they ask how high. It does sound like your westie is setting the rules & waiting for you to respond & generally its the "oh isnt that cute" or it doesnt want o so the dog wins the battle,soon the battles are won more by the dog & less by the humans. Dont panic,your dog will be confused by the change in your appraoch(this is the confusin part of not being consistent before).As long as your being fair but firm your pup will understand what you want in now time & settle to the new rules. The key is it isnt a baby or stuffed animal its a living creature which is a dog & to be a dog & feel comfy in that you must treat them as such. When a dog is giving this respect they make super loyal pets not a confused wilderbeast that is not fun to be around & 14 plus years of a little monster soons becomes very unpleasant & a chore Westies are turds to groom because often the owners allow them to get away with it so you need to look at how you brush,where you brush & what your using. *Always brush on a raised area(washing machine,table etc etc & always place a non slip matt for dog to stand on)Never brush on your knee,ground. *Look at your tools & ask yourself do they hurt the dog,some brushes are very hard & cause dogs to react to the unpleasant experience,brush your arm with your chosen tool & it shouldnt hurt. *What technique do you use when you brush.For example do you make a big deal out of it or are you too the point,consistent,firm but fair. * what voice tone do you use when the dog reacts?? *As a professional groomer i will say many of the dogs that are hard to groom have been because owners have attempted to do things themselves & the dog has not learnt right from wrong.Bad handling can create a lasting memory for a young dog I would suggest asking your breeder for advice & see if they can show you what to do or refer you to someone who can help you with your current issues.A good grooming salon will also show you who to do the basics(brushing etc et) correctly. As for the vet & nails to be honest i dont now many vets who can cut nails,many still use those horrid guillotine clippers & have no clue how to hold the dog & trim.Maybe your vet is a star .

I would imagine it is the jab thats helps the muscle tears at this time.I have had a dog have a similiar issue & the jab is the final touch in recovery

of the meals you give what one does she eat the best & with what combo?? As said already she could be getting to much,teething can also make them picky. Ours get 3 meals at that age but if there picking at there food then they miss that meal.Grazing isnt eating & when they graze they learn that the food is always there so there is no rush to eat. Also consider you mix may simply be a food overload for her .Go back to the simple basics. Did the breeder give the pasta.vegies, or more the mince,bones & necks??

Are you feeding what the breeder recommended?? Cavies can be notorious for being picky eaters so stick to your guns early

I was always under the belief the manufactuers guide to giving the injection was no on the same day as annula vaccs.That it should be given separately. It would be interesting to see what is the protocol for this. Okay found this on there 2008 news release "ProHeart® 6 is generally well tolerated. Do not use in sick, debilitated or underweight animals, animals with a history of weight loss, or within one month of vaccination. Use with caution in dogs with pre-existing allergic disease. A small percentage of dogs showed mild, transient swelling or itching at the injection site. While rare, allergic, digestive, hematological, or neurological reactions may occur. In addition, death has been reported. ProHeart 6 is available only through a restricted distribution program. Only veterinarians enrolled in this program can receive and administer ProHeart 6. In addition, ProHeart 6 must only be administered to clients whose owners have been advised of the risks of ProHeart 6 and sign an Owner Consent Form. "Can ProHeart 6 be given with other medicines? In well-controlled clinical studies, ProHeart 6 was used safely in dogs receiving other veterinary products such as anthelmintics, antiparasitics, antibiotics, analgesics, steroids, non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs), anesthetics, and flea control products. ProHeart 6 should not be given within one month of your dog being vaccinated. Tell your veterinarian about all medicines you have given your dog in the past, and any medicines that you are planning to use with ProHeart 6. http://www.proheart6dvm.com/ All the info is on here

Settrlvr, my dog was on Advance and he suffered copraphagia, dull/flakey coat and bad breath. A reaction to the food is one thing, what the food contains and the calculation of nutrients it provides is another. Truth be known, young puppies could be best fed on pig pellets, but this would be a topic of much debate and/or argument from accross the board. I now that after 24 years as breeder im fully aware just pointing out whislt it is good it like many products doesnt agree with every dog. No food is worth it if the dog has the squirts constantly & gains no benefit from the product

I though heartworm was a vacc only?? Canine cough is the only vacc im aware off given up the nose. We do not recoomend it to our puppy owners & if they chose to use it its against our advice. Good vets will give the pros/cons & the risks but most dont because its a good money earner & the prices they charge are plain ridiculous . It may be convient but i wouldnt waste that much money when there are safer options & cheaper options.Isnt that hard to give a monthly/daily pill unless you have a health issue that makes it a problem. We have vets here charging betwenn $120- #170 ,i say come in sucker

I have used the eagle pack giant & whilst good my dog had chronic runs on it & had to be switch to another .

Personally as a breeder if i breed a dog with a suspect condition it wouldnt be leaving until 12 weeks & over. We breed a puppy with a murmur.There,s not an issue in the breed but its was something we have never had.The pup stayed till 4 months when we where satisfied of its future & had regular checks during its advancement in activity level. If it was in its best interest to PTS we would have,if it could have lived a good quality but on mes we would have keeped it As heart meds are very expensive & something you need to factor into the equation. Being a loving owner many can do but paying out anywhere from $100 a month for meds is not something everyone can afforded. It went to a new home & is fine .The murmur went away but it wasnt a breed like cavies known for there issue.

Yep training.Young Am staffs just dont now there boundries & to be honest i would never leave the combo together simply due to size & the Am staffs age. Also be make sure the other dog also isnt encouraging the behaviour in which case both dogs needs to learn right from wrong .Also ensuring the Am Staff gets time out from the little one. Make sure your Am Staff is getting daily walks,lots of mental stimulation. As already said dont mix up aggression & playing roughly.You could be disciplining the dog incorrectly presuming its aggression when its simply an Am Staff playing like they should amongst there own size.

"any decent groomer should know how to groom a Schnauzer" Oh you wish. As a mini breeder & professional groomer it is one of the breeds that suffers dreadfully by being groomed incorrectly . The number of times our puppy owners have been on the phone in tears because the groomer has clipped the beard off or trimmed it like a dunny brush or they have given it owl eyes. The greater majority groom them like scotties. PIAA groomers doesnt equate to knowing how to do breed specific,seen the results of some