Papillon Kisses

If you like Purina Pro Plan I’d give it a go, see if your current dog does well on it. It meets WSAVA criteria. As do Hills and Royal Canin, which is why vets recommend these brands. WSAVA nutrition guidelines and Tufts veterinary nutrition websites have lots of info. I hope your dog’s tummy feels better soon.

I imagine it’s especially fresh and tender with all the rain.

Here’s the study itself as reporting can be a bit off sometimes https://www.science.org/doi/10.1126/science.abk0639?fbclid=IwAR2RGK-aVl8NNdyjj3sMHJdx8re066PrGxBIn06FnM0ULkNn03bChfI3wJQ Cog-Dog Radio has an interview coming up with one of the study authors. Will be out Wednesday by the sound of it. https://thecognitivecanine.com/the-podcast-cog-dog-radio/ Edited to add direct link https://m.soundcloud.com/sarah-stremming/dogs-personality-and-breed-with-dr-jessica-hekman/s-OA2uda4KDG7?utm_source=clipboard&utm_medium=text&utm_campaign=social_sharing&fbclid=IwAR3vYtfOnQ3T0xqrx4ttJ8B-LSsGTmr_AQxQqopuXWhrK0wRYaezShPZtMc

How are you getting on with her shots? Any improvement in her response?

Based on what Tuft’s is saying I would stick with a commercial diet but supplement with fresh food, in particular high fibre food, that is kept consistent. You can switch up how it is given with enrichment activities. https://vetnutrition.tufts.edu/2020/01/whats-the-best-diet-for-my-dog-with-diabetes/

You could try AAMBR https://www.aambr.com/care And in the Pet Professional Guild Australia directory, go to the advanced search, select state is VIC, then click the relevant items under pet care services and see who is in your area. https://www.ppgaustralia.net.au/Member-Search?&tab=2 A lot of the people in the PPGA directory are also force free trainers, so if needed they could help you with an enrichment plan and any training she might need for apartment living, e.g. using a toileting area, navigating lifts, being ok with noise from neighbouring units or hallways, and building up her alone time. If you ever need veterinary help for behaviour (e.g. anxiety, dementia) or pain, I can highly recommend Dr Kat Gregory at Creative Animal Solutions. She has further qualifications in veterinary behaviour, and anaesthesia & critical care (and therefore analgesia), and has lots of experience with GSP. https://www.creativeanimalsolutions.com Might as well throw in this resource for you too. https://caninearthritis.co.uk/ I’d consider also whether supports could be put in place in the home. If someone came every day to do the yard clean up, a walk or other enrichment activity, feeding, and grooming as required, could they stay at home together?

Reminds me of this http://www.friendsofthedog.co.za/uploads/6/0/9/1/6091047/he_just_wants_to_say_hi.pdf

I’m so sorry, LFF. Tonka was a special little man.

I feel the need to clarify that we want a DOG photo not a poo sleep nugget photo.

Welcome! I would go straight to a force free (also called rewards-based or positive) dog trainer. It’s easy to accidentally sensitise rather than desensitise our dogs despite best intentions. They can teach you lots of good things like how to read your dog’s body language, how to keep them under threshold, how to change how they feel about seeing other dogs using positive reinforcement methods (this in turn changes how they react), management skills for walks, and do some controlled setups with other dogs. Pet Professional Guild Australia is the best place to look for a trainer IMO. Either enter your suburb into the visual directory, or if using the advanced directory I find it best to stick with your state rather than being too specific with location. https://www.ppgaustralia.net.au/find-a-professional I see you’re in Tasmania. If you’re near Glenorchy, Everydog appear to have a suitable reactive dog course. I’m liking what I read on their website. It’s good to ask questions though. I like Jean Donaldson’s Transparency Challenge, example of answers from another Australian trainer: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=NMTrHqfTMSI If everyone is too far away from you I know some online options. In the interim, choose times and places where you’re less likely to encounter other dogs on walks, and increase your distance well in advance if you do - don’t wait until your dog reacts as he inevitably will do. Don’t go to busy places, dog parks, visit other dogs, etc. We don’t want our dogs to keep practicing the behaviour or have bad experiences undo future training efforts. Practice makes them better at it, and they’re not having a good time when they feel they have to react that way either. If you’re stuck for suitable walking places, it’s totally ok not to go out and just bump up their at home enrichment. Lots of ideas over at the Canine Enrichment group on Facebook. The video below one of my favourite skills which you could start teaching at home if you’re so inclined. When used on walks, it taught my dog that he could move away himself to get the distance he wanted from another dogs, rather than trying to barky-lunge the other dog away. But with all these skills you want to first get them fluent at home, in the yard, and on walks when no one’s around. Don’t go looking for other dogs to practice against! Another favourite skill of mine is sniffing on cue. Hope this helps and enjoy your new family member. It’s a learning curve at the start when having a reactive dog, but they are worth it.

Now reunited!

Aussie Dog Products has a bunch of tough toys but they are unlikely to be cheap as built to last. If you’re on Facebook, join the Canine Enrichment group and search for the ‘tough toys’ post and check out the DIY enrichment posts e.g. shredding cardboard, digging in an approved area of the garden, tossing his kibble or semi moist food on the grass to sniff out, walks where he gets to choose the direction and sniff to his heart’s content. Note: worthwhile having your pup’s teeth checked for malocclusions when you’re next at the vet. Sometimes dogs chew to extreme amounts because every time they close their mouth their teeth are stabbing into their gums, so having things in their mouth gives relief. I once saw a case where emergency vets had to remove a huge chefs knife that a staffy with the condition had swallowed. Owners had assumed it was just a staffy being a staffy.

I can only really think of one, which is that you can compete in ANKC sports without having to desex your dog. Otherwise your dog has to be on the associate register and be desexed. I know people who only compete in non-ANKC agility and nose work competitions as they have chosen to keep their dogs intact for health and/or behavioural reasons.

I’m wondering if it might be helpful to contact the secretaries of your state and interstate Akita clubs. They may know of pups available or planned litters, and help get you in contact with breeders. I’ve seen reference to this on breed club websites. I had to laugh at your website comment. My ‘favourite’ are the ancient ones with flashing pixelated graphics and tinny music that is impossible to get rid of. Re Pandemic. I think a lot of breeders put their plans on hold. There was a big problem with on-sellers in particular. Plus transport issues, and concerns about the impact on socialisation. While there were ways to mitigate/avoid the latter, we’re certainly seeing an influx of former ‘pandemic puppies’ with behavioural and training issues.