alpha bet

Kay Dunn works around the Eastern Suburbs, balwyn and such.... Not sure if she is on the Bowen List as she has been around for years and may not be on their financial listings. She does horses and dogs..... very good

Have just finished clipping an 11month old poodlecross Poor little dude had about 5 inches of coat to take off all over - of which about 1 to 2 inches was just pure matt. ended up coming off like a sheeps fleece.... Underneath we then had about 6 grass seeds imbedding in the skin which we removed and quite a few bits of heat rashes. Once we finished clipping we put him down and he zoomed round and round, yipping and jumping. Having such a lovely time without all that extra weight dragging him down. Very funny to watch. The family were shocked when we showed them the cut coat.... they thought they had been looking at his skin thru his coat but had actually been looking at the matting. They were surprised to see how small he actually was. They got a poodlecross because they were told how maintenance free their coat was.... All good intentioned but they just didnt understand. We recommended they look at having him clipped perhaps 4 times a year - or whenever his coat starts to get some length or at least to have him come in for a regular bath so we can make sure his skin is clean and let them know when he will be due for next clip. Their 'maintenance free' pup will probably cost $300 or so a year to keep the coat maintained. Why doesnt this message get out to those wanting the designer dogs.

Pretty extreme comment! I have no experience with Aussie Shepherds and don't know their characteristics, but as a working dog should the puppy be a GSD acting like that.............it has a temperament fault and would be getting my money back also. From a working dog perspective, Nekhbet's comment is not "extreme" at all. After years working with GSD and now moved over to Aussies I can say that the GSD pup is generally much stronger in his response to new things. Not all working breeds are as strong as the GSD (for example the Border Collie, the Kelpie, the Rough Collie), therefore it can be unfair to compare the responses of your aussie boy with other breeds. I dont think you have to much to worry about, it sounds like your Aussie has good recovery. Many individual dogs from all breeds can have some noise sensitivity and if you work slowly with him you can build his ability to handle. Have fun

I have commented on different threads on this before - Only to be razzed on by the enthusiasts here (who I feel dont bother even reading all I might have to say but just seem to get soooooooo defensive) - so very pleased to see you are looking for some positive comments..... Below is the comment I made on one of the other threads which I thought was constructive but the enthusiasts chose to ignore and just 'can' me for my comments. So I post here again - perhaps someone will bother to stop and read what is meant as a constructive comment. As far as trying to have the legislation lifted then the Pit Association should be working like the German Shepherd Club who did mass public relations in different states, by running demo teams and introducing breed and temperament surveys. They had to change the public attitude to get the support. We used to take the demo teams to school/community fetes, Agricultural Shows and shopping centres giving demos on the working and tricks the GSD was capable of, this involved allowing the public (Including kids) to come in and meet and handle our dogs and speak with the owners about how to live with the GSD. The Shepherd Club Members did this for free. Any money raised went to the Guide Dog Association. When the ban was lifted we continued with these displays.... the work wasnt over just because the ban was lifted. I sit back this time and hope that I am not going to be canned again......

Following the last piece of advice would mean that your pup has limited socialising until 19 weeks of age..... Wow .... all that fun and learning that the pup has missed. Pavo has also been known to spread from contact with humans who have had contact with infected dogs..... so if you want to be paranoid then perhaps people ( or anyone you are unsure about) should wash and change before meeting your pup. The risk of infection is far outweighed by the advantages of early socialising. Life sometimes means taking some risk.

Get rid of the lambs..... more trouble than what they are worth.

Rottiadora I'm a vet nurse and volunteer carer and I've had both close contact and have had many breeds over the years: Pittys, Staffies, Cattledogs, Kelpies, etc and Rotties of course. I can tell you the breeds that stands out as the easiest to treat and most people friendly to be around is the Pitty's and Staffy's. Ask any vet and they will tell you the same thing. They are a terrier so they need be watched around other animals but no more than any other terriers. They are a strong dog and that needs to be taken into account. Wa;lk into a strangers yard with a Cattledog or Pitty. I'd take the Pitty any day. AmStaffy's and Pitty's (as well as their x-breeds) are the two I have to be most careful with especially in the kennel environment. Often high strung, fence climbers, fence biters. Hence we are starting to find that some kennels and obedience clubs are starting to refuse admission to these dogs. I wouldn't be stupid enough to walk into a strangers yard but if i did, I would rather encounter many other breeds and not a Pit. All dogs are capable of biting, however if the amstaff or pitt decide to go they are far more destructive than others. Like pig dogs, they have a tendancy to go for the muzzle ears and head and then hang on and on.... this is not the case with most other breed. As far as trying to have the legislation lifted then the Pit Association should be working like the German Shepherd Club who did mass public relations in different states, by running demo teams and introducing breed and temperament surveys. They had to change the public attitude to get the support. We used to take the demo teams to school/community fetes, Agricultural Shows and shopping centres giving demos on the working and tricks the GSD was capable of, this involved allowing the public (Including kids) to come in and meet and handle our dogs and speak with the owners about how to live with the GSD. The Shepherd Club Members did this for free. Any money raised went to the Guide Dog Association. When the ban was lifted we continued with these displays.... the work wasnt over just because the ban was lifted.

All my dogs have been out and about getting lots of social contact from the age of 8 weeks. Pups from my own litters have also had some limited socialising from birth. It has always been believed that if mum is vaccinated the pups are born with some resistence then of course the 6 week injection is a top up. By 8 weeks pup should have reliable immunity. Now we are also finding that the fuss about annual vaccinations may be unwarranted. One place I usually avoid is the vets. A bit like sitting in a doctors waiting room - all the sickies are waiting in one place and I do wonder whether a quick wipe over is enough to sanitise the area. I always pay the extra for the vet to come to my place to give the pups their 6 week checkup and vacc. The risk of infection has to be weighed up by the need of the pup to gain the social skills required. However common sense applies, up till about 16 weeks I have been only allowed socialising with dogs that i know have good social manners. In 30 years I haven't had a problem (touch wood). Good on you for thinking this subject thru - Best of luck with your pup.

Dont be put off by any comments about boarding kennels without investigating yourself..... ring them and chat to find out what they offer.... you can always go out and visit to get a good feel for what your dogs day would be like. Ask as many questions as you want and make sure they show you the entire facility. Choose one that suits you. Some of the smaller kennels have play groups and they can be terrific. Make your own decision.

When ever we have had dogs cut their pads generally we find that it takes about three weeks for the pad to heal. It is common to see some kind of "crystalising" effect within the wound of the pad after about two weeks and by the third week the pad is starting to take the dogs weight without limping. The paw itself can take longer. especially if they are prone to licking it..... the saliva actually seems to break the skin down all the time. Often find that the chemical creams seem to be this on again off again treatment. So now we have a habit of any of the wounds or redness between the toes that dont seem able to heal within a week on their own, then we dip the affected area into methalated spirits. This helps to dry out the area and lets it heal easier, usually an impovement seen in 3-4 days. An 'old wives' remedy that seems to still hold well today and never had any dogs seem to be worried about this form of treatment (doesnt hurt the dog even if the skin is cracked). Mind you the vets never seem to recommend this treatment these days..... doesnt come packaged for the vet to charge you I suppose.....

thanks for the advice

Have decided it is probably time I added grooming services at my boarding kennel. I am lucky enough to have a woman who works for me who has plenty of experience with clipping and washing. So what I am looking for is recommendations of good equipment suppliers and also for the type of washes, dryers and clippers that people have found best. Pros and Cons would be great and even pics or links would be appreciated.

Don't wait another three weeks to get help. Your pup is already 11 weeks hence she will be 14 weeks before you get her there. 14 weeks is also fairly old to be starting puppy pre-school, so Im assuming that perhaps you are going straight into an obedience class. The danger is that by then your son may be really fed up and he will lose the chance to bond well with the pup. There are heaps of trainers out there who can help - Check your local paper and find someone - ring them first and talk about concerns you have and then choose someone who sounds like they have a lot to offer you that way you can get good value for money. Most trainers are happy to take the time to talk to you, if they are busy they will usually give you a time to call them back for a longer chat. It can be very difficult to offer advice online like this. You seem to have been reading up and have got some ideas about taking charge but it is no where near as good as having someone there to talk it thru and show you some ideas. What area are you from - there are many trainers online who might suit or other members here may have someone they can recommend you talk to. Best of luck!

I have three aussies, we live on a farm and im not really into grooming. The dogs run thru the paddock and run in the dam and dont seem to have any problem with grass seeds etc. Im actually amazed how good their coats are and dont seem to have a strong dog scent. In fact the coat seems to be self cleaning. they dry, dirt falls off and then they come inside clean. Big change from after living with GSDs. Mind you im not into showing so perhaps im not so fussy. We have slate floors at home but carpet in the bedrooms and that is where the dogs sleep. My blue girl has a big heavy coat and she drops twice a year but it doesnt get everywhere. My two black tris dont seem to have much coat loss. I give them a quick brush about once a fortnight, mainly around the ears and on the skirt on the back of the legs. It is damm easy really. I also in the boarding kennels. Have to say havent noticed any particular problem with the coats of other peoples aussie or the toller.

Can understand your dilemma both these breeds are just fantastic. Have had both staying with me in the kennels and working in the training classes. Myself after years and years of German Shepherds I never really thought I would deviate, however as nowdays I want a dog that covers everything from relaxed family dog, gentle with kiddies of all ages, to confident social dog to agile focused dog and follow me when I go for a ride on the horse. I also wanted a dog that made others feel comfortable to be around. My decision based on the relaxed working ability was the Aussie. Never been sorry, but Im sure if you decide on a Toller you will also be happy.

Persist..... just keep up the program. If pup has been in there for a time you can then wait for a period of say 5-10 minutes when he has been quiet and then go over and let him out. Get him used to spending lots of smaller session in the pen. good luck

Humping - such a fun topic. Any day of the week is HumpDay for lovers of the sport. Male and female are equal when it comes to humping. Desexing doesnt make a difference to a dedicated humper. Humping can be for different reasons. The main one for young dogs/puppies is excitement..... trouble is that it can develop as a bad habit. In older dogs it can develop as a form of dominance control.... either way it is a bad habit. It is not something to worry about as such, however stop the dog as when they are humping (especially in the excitement mode) they often tune out to everything else (kinda like a drug addict ----- GOSH this feels good!) Correct the dog with a verbal command and if needed push the dog off and then leave alone. If they hump again then repeat with a stronger correction. Generally they will start to turn and look at you when you correct and climb off themselves. For gods sake..... dont let your dog hump peoples legs..... bloody annoying habit and your friends will hate you... also the sign of a bad dog owner.

A run is a fantastic place for your dog..... fresh air.... sunshine.... a place to call his own.... much better than a crate. You wont be sorry you went to the trouble to develop this now. Imagine: whenever you have annoying children around the dog has somewhere to go where those kids cant bother him. Also if you have tradesmen doing any work you have somewhere safe to put him where you dont have to worry that someone might leave the gate open. Start by putting him the run after excercise. Take him for a walk or give him a good play and then place him in the pen with his meal his toys and perhaps a chewy bone or such. Then ignore his complaints. If you bring him back in then you are setting yourself up for a longer period of training to the pen. He must understand that you put him somewhere, he has to accept that this is where he is to be and learn to be patient. If he cries for an hour, bad luck, as long as he is safe and you can peek at him without him knowing. Leave him be.... your neighbours will have to put up with it for a day or so and then all will be well. If necessary explain to them what you are doing and they will be more tolerant as it is for the short term. Once he is good with the pen you will be able to leave him there either day or night and he will be okay with it. Leave the crate inside for when you want him contained there. Best of luck.

Sounds like your older bitch has the situation in hand..... One question? - After she has corrected the pup you say that a few minutes later she goes over and plays with the pup again. My questions is when the older girl corrects the pup does the pup move away and leave her alone? If she does, then she has achieved what she wants - the pup has learnt to respect her place and shown the older dog she can lower her energy to a more acceptable level, hence the older dog is then prepared to play again. You have a great age difference between them, sounds like your older girl has the maturity to discipline and maintain a calmness in the home. as the pup ages she may try to push the boundaries, it is good that the respect and bond is being developed now. Well done.

One of the difficulties that trainers experience is that they tend to work to their schedule and not the animals. If a dog doesn't have a natural high drive you have to become more sensitive and cut the training before the dog looses interest. If that means after four times of repeating an excercise your dog seems to shift his attention then you work on three repeats and then move onto a different excercise. As trainers we all have our preferred way of working dogs, but in truth we should work to the dogs abilities. Develop the dog in the format that works for him. Some dogs are just more layback and these guys will always lag behind a high drive dog in competition but the layback dude is a far better family pet as the high drive dog doesnt receive the activity in the average family. High drive can also work against competition if focus and concentration is lost. It is common to see highdrive Border Collies overrun the agility course. Find your dogs optimum learning and work to that and dont overwork him.

Brooke Enjoy your dogs for what they are..... accept them for what they are.... You cannot rely on any dog to protect you and you certainly don't sound like a suitable candidate for an attack trained dog and the restrictions that would come with that. You have received many suggestions here for breeds but in all honesty can you really feel ready to take on any of these and the problems that could entail. I hope that you don't have any further problems however if you really have concerns then it would make sense to consider looking into personal defense classes where you can build the confidence to look after yourself no matter where you go.... Best of luck.

Socialising classes are great.... but sometimes the social can become the main focus..... The other thing to watch is that sometimes the food is over-used.... hence there is the danger of handlers becoming reliant on the food... When I run social classes I try to incorporate the humans into the social contact.... not just dog and dog but creating off lead games for dog and human.... Something to try.... If you have a few people you know who have fun dogs - perhaps they have the same issues - try to organise some time together.... someones place is best initially..... you dont need to use much food at all..... try to create an environment where there are games to play with the dog... Example.... I set up jump grids.... a row of small jumps dont need to be very high and you can use milk crate with brooms. Perhaps some witches hats to set as bending poles and get hold of a large plastic barrel and cut out the end.... you then have a tunnel... Each of you take turns using the same techniques....use the food to initially guide the dogs thru the grid, let them go and play, call them back and use food to guide thru the tunnel, let them go play, use the food to guide thru the witches hats... let them go and play.... Now let them play..... call your boy over and get him to jump something... praise and cuddle him and let him go play... The aim of course is for the dog to find you just as much fun (perhaps more fun) than the other dogs.... Just some food now and then. You may even find a couple of the dogs will try to work the gridline with you.... this is terrific, means you are the best fun. Hope this gives you some ideas.... let your imagination go and try developing constructive fun into your work this can then transfer to your day to day activity.

I dont really have a say about how many dogs are in the class..... depends on who rolls up..... but it is a bit different for me as I run solo at my dog school. When I first started out I used to book people in for 6 week groups of about 5.... This was easier for me to concentrate on..... as I got more experienced and my teaching skills improved I started feeling more capable of handling more people. About 12 years ago I just opened up the classes and allowed people to just come when they could at times it could be a bit nerve wracking to have a dozen dogs but I learnt to move around more and keep bringing people back into the group. I was on a really steep learning curve but there was no other way.... At times i thought i would stop whenever I lost confidence with a dog or handler I couldnt help, but that became less and less. As my teaching skills improved I find I can handle more numbers. My classes may also have more than one person per dog and there have been nights when a class has had 25 people and a dozen dogs...... and I run two classes in the same evening..... You learn to adapt to the numbers..... if its bad weather and only a few turn up we can concentrate on individuals techniques or any particular problems if a lot happen to turn up then I might adjust the class to playing some relay games or some agility grid work which can be loads of fun..... In summer on a hot evening we might take the dogs down to the dam and have some free running and add some group recalls and swimming. Have even had some cold evenings when we meet in the village area and walk the dogs thru the street and concentrate on loose lead walking. My opinion/experience - Instructors need to be aware of their own comfort level.... New instructors should be working with only a few and perhaps able to follow more structure... There is more to it, than understanding how to train a dog.... more about learning how to read the people and know when they need more help or to have something explained a different way. It is crucial that instructors learn to make the handlers feel supported and this also means never to make a handler feel stupid or a bother. Learning to teach is the important part.... A good handler does not always make a good instructor.....

I never overanalysis it.... if they get on the furniture..... GEEETTT OFFFF THE BLOODY COUCH...... or what ever else comes out of my mouth.... sorry but the actual words dont matter it is the attitude the dog gets from me that counts..... Oh yea.... to get them on the bean bag.... i just pat the bag and they scramble on..... if i dont tell em off they know their okay.....

Looks like I work a bit differently than most postings here. My three dogs sit and wait and then i put a bowl in front of each and tell them to go for it....They each eat out of their bowl and if one finishes first they will stand and watch the others..... if they get to close to another dogs bowl you will often hear a low warning growl and if they dont move back i might step in and correct the dog wanting to invade another dogs space. However once any of the dogs walk away from their bowl the others will of dive in and lick the bowl.... Generally they all end up licking each others bowls... Have done this with our multiple dog household for years and havent had fights..... Work on the principle that the bowls actually belong to ME... the food might be theirs but once the food is gone or they have walked away there is no need to fuss. I also leave the bowls stacked on the floor in the corner of the kitchen and although they keep going over for a look and a sniff or even a lick, i dont allow them to carry them around, after all the bowls belong to me. When food is plentiful (as with our domestic dogs) hunger is not an issue. Even in the wild when a pack makes a kill, they all pull apart and share the kill. Arguements are generally minor and just tiffs.