sheena

At the recent ADAA Grand Prix in Tamworth, they gave away an entry to this as first prize in the raffle. Of course I didn't win it I have heard from a few people who have been to her seminars, that you have to be fairly thick skinned as she can be quite tactless & downright rude. No good for me....I'm too sensitive. I do admire her though & I think she is a great trainer & entertaining as long as you're not on the end of her stick. :D Have you seen this

Oh No Sounds like another Agility Junkie in the making

This DVD from this site will cost you $60.00 including postage. Clean Run have it for $39.95 including postage. Another one I have, is Susan Garret's Crate Training. I am a bit of an addict when it comes to collecting DVD & books on this subject.....lucky I have a very understanding OH Clean Run have all their Clean Run produced DVD's on "free postage" till the end of December. So I think I will probably have added a few more by then. The latest one I have ordered is "How Many Dogs?" which I am hoping will help me out with how to cope with more than one dog when I get my new puppy.

If you go to the www.cleanrun.com website, you will find heaps to choose from. Go into their "free shipping" section...they are very reasonably priced especially considering our exchange rate at present. I have The Focused Puppy book (a good one to get even before you get your pup), In Focus Foundation Work & the Puppy Sounds CD. I am also thinking of getting The Pre-Sports Puppy & In Focus Beginning Obstacle Skills. By the way, I don't have a puppy, thats just in rediness for when I do, besides they all contain some info which is applicable to even grown up dogs.....we never stop learning

My lovely OH is building me an A Frame, which will just about complete the agility course he has built for me at home......sorry girls, he's not for hire (OH, that is) He's building it to ANKA standards but it will be able to be lowered to adjust the height. I have taught her 2o2o for the dogwalk & seesaw but thought a running contact would be better for the A Frame. At present she just flys off the end, like there is "no tomorrow" :D I have a DVD by Barb Davis who uses stride regulators but wondering if anyone else can suggest another DVD or maybe another method of training this without the use of stride regulators. Would it probably be best to have the A Frame lowered for repetitive work, so she doesn't do herself an injury. I know this has been touched on in another thread, but thought I might post it seperately to attract more comment. :D

This is the one I have http://www.cleanrun.com/index.cfm?fuseacti...p;ParentCat=173 So maybe mine is not a martingale....Clean Run call it a Limited Slip collar. I find it good as it can't slip over the dogs head if she pulls but it is still comfortable for her to wear. Also it looks good. I know in my club you wouldn't be allowed to wear a pronged collar, but they will allow martingales & limited slip. I don't use it for training, but use it when on lead so if the unexpected happens, she can't slip out of her collar & also it is simple to remove at agility trials.

Only the webbing ones are fiddly. Leather ones with a buckle aren't. I don't find anything remotely fiddly about the Blackdog sighthound collars. I don't know those ones. The webbing ones we had before were a pain in the ass to loosen (to get over the head) and tighten (so as the collar was high and snug). The collar I use is designed to just slip over her head & just sits down on her neck when she is being normal,(like a normal collar) but when she pulls, that is when the slip bit comes into play & it tightens behind her head so she can't pull out. I don't think they are meant to be so tight to start with, that it permantly sits behind their head . Correct me if I'm wrong but I think you might have the wrong idea about how they work I only have mine on when she is on the lead. She runs her agility nude & never has a collar on at home, cause I had a dog once that got tangled up when I was not at home & hanged itself.

Just scroll down this list of topics to "Play pen & treats" ...probably answers your questions,

In Rachel Sanders DVD, does she do the contact training with stride regulators ?? Just wondering if the method is much different to the DVD I have by Barb Davis, where she teaches using stride regulators & hoops. Has anybody seen this DVD training 2o2o by Spot On Agility.Com. It is advertised in this months Clean Run Magazine. http://spotonagilitydog.com/

Interesting....I have always wondered if dogs are'nt meant to have salt then why do they add it to commercial kibble-type products. Maybe for flavour I also add to her raw, Livamol & joint formula, but never of these contain any salt either. I think I would be a bit reluctant to put out a salt block for her as she might just like the salt & overdose. The last Border Collie (RIP) we had use to be contantly eating the dirt underneath where we had fertilised plants. This one does lick us a lot, but I thought she was just being friendly. My daughter's dog used to consume copius amount of salt water when we'd take her to the beach, then vomit it all back up She died at the age of four of a suspected heart attack.

Yeah...that's what I thought. So I think I might start adding just a little to her RAW mix, especially in hot weather. We need salt, so I can't see why a dog wouldn't. If I were to feed her a commercial kibble it would have added salt in the ingredients. Maybe I will ask the vet next time we go in for our needles.

Last year my girl was on Proban 48 hourly plus Advantix fortnightly & she was still getting covered in little grass ticks which were driving her (& me) crazy. Vet said to do her with Permoxin daily AS WELL, as the others don't repel the ticks, plus antihistamines. I really thought that was a bit of an overload of chemicals I find the best way to apply the Permoxin is with a sponge, but it is a bit useless if the dog is in swimming most days.

Is it just called "Running Contacts" it's called reliable running AFrame. I think the whole thing would be hard if you didn't have regular access to an AF, but the groundwork can be done with a PVC box (took me 5 mins to make) and 2-3 jumps. I think the groundwork is useful for general agility, regardless of what you are planning to do on the af. This one.... http://www.cleanrun.com/index.cfm?fuseacti...p;ParentCat=449. I have another one by Barb Davis called Training running contacts with stride regulators. ETC Name

We need ideas for games we could play with our dogs at this years Christmas Party...there will be obedience dogs there also. Any ideas

Is it just called "Running Contacts"

Is that this one, by any chance, as I was thinking of getting it. http://www.cleanrun.com/index.cfm?fuseacti...p;ParentCat=449 I have taught my girl the 2o2o but during a trial she forgets all about it & often misses her contacts, like as if she's in a hurry to get to the next obstacle

I feed my girl Vets All Natural plus raw meat (kangaroo, lamb or beef) + meaty raw bones. About once a week she gets sardines with it & every few days a whole raw egg. I have often wondered if she needs salt in her diet as feeding her what I do, means absolutely no salt in her diet.

Sounds lovely....how about a photo. I wouldn't use a baby play pen as he might get his head stuck in it. Bunnings sell wire enclosures for compost at about $23 & they make good puppy pens even if you got 2 & joined them together. One tip though with pens, never put your puppy in or take him out by lifting over the top of the pen. If you do this, he will soon work out that is the way to get out ie. jump over or climb. Dried liver treats used to give my girl the poops real quick.....the cooked chicken sounds good. Or if you want something more convenient try lamb puffs which is dried lamb lung. Has similar nutritional value as the liver without the nasty consequences

I have just ordered one of these treat pouches from Clean Run...I emailed them & they reduced the postage to 7.90. http://www.cleanrun.com/index.cfm?fuseacti...mp;ParentCat=54 They also have the Gentle Leader ones but under a different name of Quick Access Pouches...developed by the same fellow. I think they were about 14.95 & if you email them they will reduce the postage to 7.90.

Just got my copy of Clean Run for November, They are advertising free worldwide shipping on ALL Clean Run Production DVD's till 1st January 2011. Not sure when it starts, tho I would imagine 1st Nov.

I know a woman who has taught her kelpie to look lovenly into her eyes & in a very soft growl, says "I love you"...it is so cute. I don't know how she taught it tho.

No , it gets much better, but it takes time. When you're walking always have lots of treats on you. I could always predict when Bindi might respond badly to a situation (lunge) if I was concentrating, & I would immediatley say something in a low growling type voice like "don't you even think about it" & she would look at me & I would praise & treat. With the walking on a loose lead, again have lots of treats, have him walking by your side with a treat in that hand. To start with take a few paces (maybe just one) & treat (if he is looking at you & still nicely at your side)....keep doing this & gradually increase the number of paces before you praise & treat. Before you know it he will be walking nicely by your side, focusing on you, hoping he will get the occasional treat....but it all takes time. I know there are some on this forum who laugh at my simple training methods,(like water squirts & treats) but they are methods that have worked for me with a very hyperactive young border collie (I have never had one quite like her). She was a real shock to the system when I got her

OMG What sort of people are they

http://www.dogtainers.com.au/index.php?id=26 I wouldn't be putting a puppy in a soft crate...they will destroy it in no time, & possibly escape when you are least expecting it. I have seen it happen when a friend had their 6 month old puppy at a trial in a soft crate. While mum was out running the course with her other dog, puppy decided to chew her way out. Took ages to find her & the trial was next to a busy highway. Eventually found her down a drain. Why don't you get a folding metal crate, which usually come with a divider, & a canvas waterproof cover to go over it.

This is a a rather sweeping blanket statement ... also somewhat unhelpful given the OP's original request for advice ... 1. DOL is set up as a forum for owners of pure bred dogs (as recognised by the ANKC), but discussion of non-ANKC recognised dogs is permitted so long as posters do not breach forum rules. I note that in your comment you've referred to a forum for cross-breed owners and then you've said that decent advice wasn't forthcoming because pure breed breeders are the ones putting in the hard yards. While a lot of valuable information here comes from conscientious and reputable breeders - a lot of good advice on this forum also comes from conscientious and responsible owners and in those circumstances, the dog's pedigree (or lack thereof) shouldn't really be a factor. 2. I'd agree that cross bred dogs raised in puppy farms in appalling conditions can be health-compromised (but that goes for any dog raised in a puppy farm). I'd also agree that indiscriminate backyard breeding can also lead to sub-optimal health in dogs but I don't think it's necessarily the case that cross-bred dogs are always or even mostly less healthy than their pedigree counterparts. A conversation with the various people working at my local veterinary office (all of whom are very experienced) has confirmed that while there is no 100% rule - there are many healthy cross breeds out there. I'm not going to talk about statistics comparing pure to non-pure, I just want to say that there are a lot of healthy cross breeds out there who are functional, fit and healthy. When I was having a discussion with the Working Kelpie Council, they mentioned that the border collie/Kelpie cross was a relatively popular cross that was quite successful for the function for which it was crossbred. I'm not endorsing the crossbreeding, I'm just disputing that crossbreeds are necessarily not as fit, healthy and "functional". 3. A "purebred" label alone does not equal quality of dog. You've just referred to a "pure bred breeder" and all this means is that the breeder breeds pure breeds purebred dogs, not that they are an ethical and conscientious and carry out basic testing. I'm not even going to say 'registered' because in my view, registration doesn't mean anything except that the breeder satisfied registration requirements. A purebred breeder could be a puppy farmer or a BYB so long as they're breeding purebred dogs. Nonetheless, I'm assuming by the context of your remark that you are referring to a reputable and ethical breeder. Even in those cases, while the likelihood of the dog being "fit, healthy and functional" should be higher, there can be no guarantees. Just look at this forum - the majority of dogs here will be pure bred dogs but there are the full range of health/temperament issues. Some of these can be chalked up to environment or owner, but some of these come down to the dogs themselves. At the end of the day, dogs are animals and not robots or clones so there is still an element of chance even though the odds should be slightly better if the breeder is ethical and conscientious. I'm not trying to push cross breeds or bash purebreds. I own one of each and both are lovely, healthy, have beautiful temperaments and I love them dearly. I owned my cross breed first and I think I put as much time, love, effort, money and thought into looking after my crossbreed as many purebred owners. I guess just think it's a bit unhelpful to be spouting messages that imply that it serves someone right because they got a cross breed after they've already got the dog. There are many, many people who only start learning about dogs after they get their dog - I'm one of these people. What was helpful to me was people who were willing to give me advice since I already had the mutt ... Yes, for my second dog we opted to go for a pure bred dog whose breeder was recommended by the appropriate registration authority because there was a lot of sense in getting a dog that had a more predictable temperament but that was because there were enough owners of pure bred dogs here who were kind, helpful and instructive ... Also, I know that this is the internet, this is a public form and I'm not the DOL police and that people can say whatever they like and people can be as rude as they like (given the faux-bravery given by Net Anonymity) and that people should consider themselves fair game when they post here BUT as this is an internet forum and I'm also entitled to express my view, I will say that I just wish (and yes this is just a vain wish with no mandatory force behind it) that people could be nicer and kinder when people are genuinely looking for advice ... Some threads are fair game for debate but other threads are a genuine plea for help. If you're not feeling helpful and you think that the person is unworthy of your time and knowledge because of the sort of dog they own, then it's just as easy to skip the thread and spend your time elsewhere rather than getting a kick in... Leave others to at least try to be helpful. :D well said! I feel the same! At the end of the day we should remember we are all here for the love of dogs That goes for me too.....well said Dogs are dogs & we love them all. I do wish though that somehow we could put an end to indiscriminate breeding of any dogs be they pures or crosses, then we wouldn't have so many of them ending up in shelters & having to be put to sleep, not to mention all those born withhereditary problems which will make the rest of their life a misery, not just for the dog but for the owner too.