Mrs Rusty Bucket

my dog can hang on for 12 hours... it's easier for her if I've been feeding the casserole, and harder if she's been eating dry dog food. but no accidents. she does stay inside the house when I'm out. I guess that's not very hopeful. I think if you did 25 minute walk with lots of new smells (go somewhere slightly different each day)... and then five mins of trick training when you got home that he'd be ok for the day until you get home?

I remember the thread about the blue SBT from interstate - with mange and other problems so this OP has been really burned going interstate. Plenty of quality local SBT breeders. The OP can get burned close to home too. Don't buy a blue and don't buy unless the breeder health tests. That's how to start the search for a decent breeder. True, but much easier to return dog that isn't right - if it's local. OP wants to meet the parent dogs - excellent start. And in other news I think SBT are missing from the LIDA database http://sydney.edu.au/vetscience/lida/dogs/search/breed I sent an email asking about it but either got no reply or my spam filter ate it. But I know they do have health problems especially if both parents are blue.

I remember the thread about the blue SBT from interstate - with mange and other problems so this OP has been really burned going interstate. Plenty of quality local SBT breeders.

I think calling the dog breed you want "English Stafford" instead of the name they are known by with the ANKC breeders - ie Staffordshire Bull Terrier will cause problems with the small scale breeders. There are two ANKC registered puppy farmers - in SA who sell Staffordshire Bull Terriers. One that I've met is ok but completely ball obsessed and doesn't play with other dogs at all. Not even the other dog it lives with. I can tell you which ones they are by PM but it's easy to tell in the journal or by ringing dogs sa and asking who has the most litters in terriers... One had thirteen SBT litters listed in the November 2015 journal - tho that looked like about 6 months worth all at once. I've got a cattle dog bitsa and she spent a lot of time with SBT especially when she was little so she LOVES them. And plays well with them. There's one that has been competing in agility until recently and is of the Riverhaven line - lovely black and tan and super friendly with everybody - including my dog. To get the right puppy from the right breeder you need to be patient and make friends with the breeders and meet their dogs and stay in contact with the breeders who have dogs you like.

kami I'm sure you've done the best you can with what you have available. This group might be able to help. Some of the breed rescues only deal with dogs with papers but others are more open minded. And they might have some general advice about what to do. http://www.beaglerescuevic.org/aboutus.html Another place to put a note up to advertise Rusty is at your vet. Ie if someone has recently lost their pet or they're looking for another one - Rusty might be a good option for them. Might be best if he goes to a home with an easy going Labrador or another beagle. Not to a home with another nervous dog. This is petrescue's advice on what to do. You can skip the part about do you really need to and get to the bit about how. If you put an ad up for him, always post a price - so he doesn't go to a home that either can't afford him or are planning to make a profit in some way or worse - free dog fight bait. Has Rusty been desexed? I can't tell from this thread. I'm assuming that would have been one of the first things suggested if he was still entire? Rehoming a desexed male is usually easier than a not desexed one. If he has still got his nuts - the price you put on him - should include a voucher for desex at your favourite vet or the RSPCA. If he goes to the RSPCA and they assess him as rehomeable - they will desex him before they rehome him. https://www.petrescue.com.au/library/articles/help-i-need-to-rehome-my-pet

So for dogs that don't need a behaviourist... and can be trained.. This was Susan Garrett's recommendation this morning and worked with quite a few of her dogs. To put each dog in a separate crate (or bed/mat if they can both hold a stay in the presence of the other dog) and feed each dog for being calm in the crate... Then move the crates a bit closer (for the session the next day), until you're feeding both dogs side by side and they're not snarking at each other. Ie if theres any snarking - then stop feeding and move the crates a bit further apart again. Need to know what the snarking distance is for initial placement of crates. The idea is that the snarking dog is less worried about the other dog if the snarking dog knows good things come around the other dog. In this case Susan also suggested the same as what I did - if you have a dog that is being excessively rude and invading the other dog's space (or being overly rough in play) need to put that dog on lead for a bit, then release to see what choice it makes, if bad choice - repeat the on lead time. I don't think Annie the kelpie has a chance while Rusty is still a rude beagle. But - beagles will work really hard for food.

Or according to the history on the Cairn Terrier UK page... Link I provided earlier in this thread.

I don't think you can rely on your puppy being smaller than your sister's unless they're already both adult dogs. Sometimes the cross comes out much larger than the breeder said it would. When I did puppy class with my dog, there was a golden retriever cross poodle there and it was going to be bigger than a Standard Poodle let alone a golden retriever, but the owner said the breeder said the cross was a small poodle so the puppies should be small. Oops. Genetics doesn't always work that way plus some of the cross breeders will just say whatever to get someone to buy. And once you have a puppy - it's very difficult to get your kids to let you take it back. Until of course, it's eaten the crotches out of all their underwear and chewed their favourite electronic device they left where it could reach. Tho all puppies are capable of that. In a big dog - harder to forgive for some reason. The other stuff - bad behaviour and jealousy - all comes down to training. You train a dog to be calm around other dogs by rewarding calm behaviour. For my dog - pats and praise, for some dogs - really yummy bits of food. There's a book called "control unleashed" that specifically addresses that, plus another one (that I haven't read) called FIGHT by Jean Donaldson (recommended by one of SG's ICPeeps this morning). You just need to make sure that both dogs know that good things come from being calm around the other dog(s) and good things get packed up and put away if things get out of control. Ie your dog that likes to T-bone other dogs on the run - put it on lead immediately. Walk on lead for a bit, then let it off to see what it's choice is. More rough play (t-boning and shoulder charges can lead to serious injuries in both dogs) and back on lead for the rest of the walk... Ie owner take charge.

Have you asked his breeder for a recommendation. Or maybe look up the sharpei breeders in SA on here, and ask one of them? Otherwise Pin Needham at Glenside Vet is where I go most of the time. Especially since the vets at Colonel Light Gardens have started having a vet and a nurse pin my dog down for stuff she would stand calmly for like vaccinations - not keen to go back there if they don't treat a dog by its merits. She doesn't like poodle crosses but as best I can tell - none of the staff are poodle crosses and she will do anything for food. Including having a sore leg examined. Or you can phone a few in your area and ask how many sharpei they see regularily. Heather at All breeds rescue who is down south might also be able to help. Her "heart breed" is sharpei, and she specialises in rescue for them including getting lots of cherry eye surgery arranged. So she would know good vets for that. https://www.petrescue.com.au/groups/10330

Move out. That's the easiest way. I guess the next most reliable way is to keep your puppy separate as much as possible and only allow free play with the other dog with your permission ie have a strong "go play" cue. I would crate train my puppy. And play its yer choice games to get impulse control going as fast as possible. Crate training your puppy gives you a quick easy way to separate them when you need to. Like when guests are coming over. And have your greetings on lead, no greeting unless puppy is calm sitting. Try not to expect too much of a puppy tho. My dog looks very calm and relaxed now but she used to wet herself every time someone came to the door she was that excited. Door manners - I think barking at the door is good, as long as your dog can stop when you say. For my dog, teaching speak on cue - gives it value so I can combine the cue'd barking with "quiet" or "enough" and she stops giving away those barks for free if there's no treats in it. Training calm arrive home greetings, I think will be impossible unless you are always with your puppy when your family members come home. For just me - I ignore my dog when I get home, I march straight through and out the back and act boring until she's toileted (got no dog door)... and then I will give her some nice calm pats and ear rubs. But you can't stop the rest of your family winding your puppy up when they get home.

Cool. How you been anyway - haven't seen you in ages. :)

I've had someone yell at me - has your dog done that before and I'm going erm... That was after she scolded a poodle cross that was on lead (how embarrassment) and chased it around the owner until the owner was tied up and the poodle cross ran out of lead and I caught my evil hound. I tried to apologise but couldn't get a word in because the owner was yelling so much abuse at me. I think we scared him but his dog was fine, no marks or bruises nothing. I got someone else to go check them for me. I had her on lead but she ripped the lead out of my hand. Sigh. I didn't see him coming cos he went round behind me but evil hound noticed. If I had seen him coming she never would have pulled free. She's been a lot better since then but not perfect. This morning a border terrier overstepped her idea of polite and she scolded it. The owner said hey it's ok he needs scolding and I said - I don't want her practicing that behaviour because all dogs will cop it not just that owner's. What I was thinking was you #*($*)&& TRAIN YOUR DOG. Don't expect my dog to do it for you.

dwarfism can also be caused by not quite enough food...

I have just had a look at the runs and they look like the dog is in prison, I think maybe people mis interpreted what I meant by a dog on on a chain. I feel that at least the dog isn't looking out of his cage feeling like he's alone. At least these dogs on chains can have a run around and enter their kennels if need be. They do look a bit like prison. And a nice crate looks like solitary confinement. But a dog is much safer and can be much happier in a run. Can you imagine dog boarding kennels where all the dogs are kept on chains? Wouldn't work very well. If all the good things like dinner and treats and toys happen in the run, the dog can be very happy there while you're out, and with you when you're home. My dog does get a bit peeved if I put her in her crate when I'm home, but she gets over herself pretty quickly if I don't cave in. I reckon if you got a soft sided crate for your dog, that your 4yo boy would move in. Beware of the dog training the human. http://www.humanesociety.org/animals/dogs/tips/crate_training.html

. tripped up by the full editor

This came by on my FB feed recently... seems apt too. But most of my FB friends have a clue when it comes to dog manners.

Me neither. My brother used to chain his dog. It was very afraid of thunderstorms - would completely freak out and bolt. And jump the fence - while still on the chain. He came home one day to see his dog hanging by her neck. Not quite dead yet but working on it. Chains aren't the answer to keeping your dog safe. Or anyone else safe. And some dogs are also adept at getting out of their collars. https://positively.com/articles/fatal-dog-bites-share-common-factors/ There is a movement to get more farm dogs into runs. Runs are easier to keep clean and dry and the dog is not risking neck injuries. But runs need dig proof floors and roofs, and shelter. Same as having a dog loose or chained by it's neck on the back of utes is going out of fashion. More and more there are special dog pens on the backs of utes. Or dog rides in the cabin - that's always fun if you're the extra passenger.

American bulldogs are definitely big scary looking dogs but the thing I saw with a club on hound tv (Victoria) none of them looked very protective. Dunno what they'd be like at home tho. My dog is completely different at home than out with strangers. I wouldn't want to own an American Bulldog in Victoria tho. That BSL stupidity they still have. I think something similar is a Rottweiler tho they generally come in black and tan. But might be a bit big if your mum had to lift one in the car to get it to the vet. Jack Russells can be very protective... and small for an older person to manage.

I can't tell the difference between a dog charging up to be friendly and one charging up to start a fight. My dog can't either. We've got a problem choc lab visiting our park just on or after dusk and it charges across the ovals and starts fights. And it's one of a squillion dark coloured labs that visit there and the only one that is mean and let off lead. Tho it doesn't get off lead when I'm there any more. That owner was too far away to even yell "Bad Idea" at. I grabbed her dog, and passed mine off to one of my friends. Often my dog will be with me and my friends which is a very mixed looking group of people and dogs including some poodle crosses and small dogs and big dogs. Maybe some people think it's ok to let their dog barge up to an established "pack" of doggy friends. The little dogs in this group will go after any big dog that approaches and often my medium big dog - wants to help. Trouble is - nobody takes the little dogs seriously but my dog - on behalf of her doggy friends, she can and does drive off the big dog if I don't see it coming first and catch her. And then she goes mental because she must save her friends and can't.

I've got a collection of what I call "rude dog" articles for people who complain about some dog growling at their dog when their dog is "friendly" and "just wants to say hi". Here's a couple to add to Persephone's. . Suzanne Clothier's article "he just wants to say hi". Note the URL for this one has recently changed so if you have seen it before you might want to update your bookmark for it. http://suzanneclothier.com/he-just-wants-to-say-hi#.Vt4RYXlf0kk Why herding dogs hate Labs... https://sarahwilsondogexpert.com/why-does-my-herding-dog-seem-to-hate-labs/ The Rude response to Rude from the Dog Snobs - your dog is being an a-hole and so are you. http://thedogsnobs.com/2013/07/30/your-dog-isnt-being-friendly-hes-an-asshole-and-so-are-you/

Maybe we or better - the Cairn Breeders club could update the DOL blurb for Cairn Terrier... I can't find those exact words anywhere else on the web using a google quote search in the UK and USA, and it only comes up here. Does anyone know who wrote it?

I looked up the UK Cairn Terrier club and they have an article about a woman who had the dogs from the Isle of Skye - so there were Skye terriers and Cairn Terriers being entered in the same breed class but the Cairn terriers did not meet any of the criteria set for the Skye Terrier class... So a new class was created for them but they weren't allowed to be called short coated skye or any variation on skye... And there was and is still - some controversy about whether a dog (breed) is for show or for work and whether its form should be for work or for show... I think that's maybe what the statement means... either that the Cairn is meant for work and the shape of it reflects the work and environment it was living in and not the "show standard". Or that a woman (not a man) "created" the breed by entering her dogs in the "wrong class". http://www.thecairnterrierclub.co.uk/brocaire.html

I got my vet to verify the number and it's on the stuff I got from the AWL and I had to get it transferred to my name (I think the AWL did this for me). It's the number that comes up on the microchip reader. Should be unique for each dog. I think this website looks up all Australian Databases http://www.petaddress.com.au/Default.aspx It will tell you which database your chip number is with and then you can go to that database's website to check info and update it. Some of the databases require the vet to verify details ie the public can't do it. I had troubles when I wanted to register mine on the database my favourite vet uses. The system was down and then it refused so I never bothered.

I think I'd get a Staffordshire bull terrier ahead of one of those. You could find a breeder who has dogs that get along well with humans and other dogs. But I wouldn't cos I'm a sucker for Bull Terriers sometimes called "English Bull Terriers" - the ones that can bust your nose with a single love kiss. Pretty sure you could get a bully breed mix in NZ that looks like those drooly mouthed things. I'd look around where they go pig hunting. Or maybe a dogue de Bordeaux (French Mastiff)?

I think that you could vaguely argue that the sort of edge of the village dogs they have in North Africa and Asia and PNG - the ones that look like dingos. Nobody feeds them or vaccinates them or gives them flea treatments - they just fend for themselves on what humans throw away... Maybe those are dogs that are not man made - humans are not choosing who they mate with or if the puppies are raised successfully or socialised. But something like a cairn terrier - erm no. Lots of direct human intervention with those dogs.