Mrs Rusty Bucket

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  1. they might be a scammer if ... you ask to see the puppy that is supposedly in the same town as you and they say it is now in some town on the other side of the country, and when you offer to send someone you know in that town to check on the puppy - suddenly it's not in the country - erm. And then you might as well give up because if you're going to import a puppy, you definitely want lots of word of mouth recommendations from people you know face to face - like local breeders of that kind of dog. There was some Australian scammer in a NSW country town fairly recently that was advertising puppies, taking money and then failing to deliver. She got in trouble for fraud... But there's lots of overseas scammers. DOL can be a great help to put pressure on the teleport puppies... cos there is at least one Doler pretty much everywhere in Oz and a few other places too.
  2. It is good to be wary - but DOL listed breeders are not like Gumtree listings. Ie they actually get checked here - and if someone else spots a fake or scammer on DOL - they get removed - if they ever managed to get listed in the first place. Breeders to get listed on their ANKC breed club website - usually have to pay a fee - and it can be harder to keep updated. Here I think it's free for a standard ad and easy for a breeder to keep it up to date - tho as you have probably found already - some don't keep basics like their email and phone numbers up to date. Breeders are humans and puppies are fragile - so sometimes things go wrong and they can't give you a puppy like they promised. So now I would recommend - be patient, and keep in touch with the breeders. If you want to know more about them - you could try asking the ANKC affiliate in the state they are in, or look for state specific breed club and ask them. Unfortunately it is still possible for bulk puppy breeders ie people with many many bitches to be registered with ANKC. I get worried that those breeders are not giving their puppies enough people contact or dog socialisation and some don't do health checks for preventable diseases. So I recommend what TSD said - that you try to meet the breeder and their dogs ahead of time - ideally somewhere neutral like a breed social event or show and then visit their place - to see what sort of environment the puppies will be brought up in and whether that suits you.
  3. If you're "correcting" - you're too late really. Ideally you want to be preventing the opportunity while you train the dog to behave more appropriately and reliably around H. Hopefully a behavourist or trainer will help with training plans. You need someone who can train you how to train the dog. And what ever methods they suggest - they need to be methods you'd be comfortable using - otherwise the exercise is pointless. The best science around these days suggests using aversives (things your dog doesn't like) to try to reduce an unwanted behaviour - is not the best method to train a reliable behaviour. Positive reinforcement - delivering something your dog does like for a behaviour you do want is the best method. My dog thinks not getting a treat for that is aversive and says so - ie there is grey in the middle of what is "no reward" and what is aversive. Once you have your dog trained to be polite around your H and stay out of the way, then he can run free and unsupervised. What you're aiming for is for him to make good choices of his own accord with no commands (cues) required (its yer choice games - advanced version) so you don't have to get out there and "correct" him. It can be done.
  4. I'd be tempted to catch it with tongs or a long handled hoe and dispatch it quickly... Sigh. Someone on the radio was talking about a mice trap they made out of a deep bucket and a bait bottle that they climb onto and then it rolls and drops them in the bucket - she caught 35 mice in one night. She did not mention how she dispatched them either.
  5. funny how "go sniff" doesn't work very well when you've got a bag of roast chicken in your pocket...
  6. In my mind - this is unhealthy for the dog. To be allowed to roam out of sight completely unsupervised... Unless all your boundary fences are perfectly dog proof. A lot of people on rural property shoot first and ask questions later. We lost a dog this way and (as best I knew - wasn't there - it was still on the right side of the fence but too close to the neighbour's sheep). My brother lost a dog because it decided to chase the neighbour's car. The more the dog is allowed to stalk the more it will stalk and the behaviour could get worse. If you have to confine it when you can't supervise until it is trained / behaving how you want... that would be for the best. A zap collar - I'm pretty sure that would give an anxious uncertain dog - a reason to blame H for the zap and increase the anxiety. Ie if you hurt a dog for being fearful - that's going to make it more fearful. If the dog would respond to cues given by your H - that would be helpful eg "drop, wait, come" etc. that way your H could give your dog a job to do that keeps it out of the way and safe. But if H doesn't want to help - or your dog continues to be frightened of him... you need to come up with a different plan.
  7. NSW? chi x pom schipperke pug x
  8. yes my first thought for someone who wants a beagle x cav - is to try to talk them into something else... ie find out what they need, what they think they like about what they asked for and what breeds often have that... along with a bit of explaining about genetics - not guaranteed the best of both worlds - any more than any child has the best of their parents' combined gene pool.
  9. hopefully if it is not a life time normal behaviour for your dog - it will be easier to persuade your dog - it's not that much fun... and there are better things to do. That would be easier if you can get H to help but otherwise you're going to have to use him (H) as a distraction in your effort to train dog to greet more politely or just ignore H. Figure out what you want instead - that your dog cannot do at the same time as "stalking" and train that.
  10. You think that would be right. But dogs are dogs and instructors are humans (ok my number 1 dog training instructor is my dog). I find with my dog she might chill out on lead when I'm talking to someone, but she may also decide to try to leave or greet someone over there (eg the lady who feeds her lots of chicken is irresistable or a level 11 out of 10 distraction) and when I'm talking to someone - it's hard to have focus enough to make sure my dog ignores the bigger distractions. It's very hard to train my dog to ignore a school child on the footpath on a speeding bike that goes by at speed close enough run over her tail. Fortunately my dog on lead so her interaction was limited to scolding the child. Child's parent - also on a bike but further away - said nothing but sheesh... should I expect my dog to sit quietly while some idiot runs over her tail or is it ok to bite the tyres. Some instructors would not see what their dogs are doing as a problem and some "pick their battles"... I've seen some good dog trainers let their dogs pull like freight trains on lead because it's not important to them that their dog has any self control on lead. But then they can go blast around an agility course and get a clear and fast round. I've had to look at some of the crap my dog does and pay attention to all the places she does it - not just the places where it's a problem... and then look at what I do that lets her think it's an ok behaviour. Some of it is left over from when I didn't know how to train this dog (nothing that had worked on previous dogs that I learnt at dog training clubs - worked with her) and I pick my battles...
  11. stalking and pouncing (biting or not) is a pretty natural behaviour for a dog - especially one that is close to the original kinds of dog that hunted to feed themselves. It can be a pre-cursor to play, or a fight, or bringing down prey... My dog left to her own devices stalks and herds birds and cats out of the yard and she will sometimes stalk other dogs at the park... or go into stalk mode when she sees another dog when we're out walking. Personally - it's causing us some problems at the park so I've decided I need to train her she can only do that with "permission" so I am taking her into the back yard and down to the back fence on lead so she can't stalk and charge any birds that might be there. I also make her sit and show some self control at the door before we go out. Clearly stalking your H is not ok with your H... and probably the only way you're going to get through to your dog about that - is to make sure he is on lead or otherwise under control when your H is around until he learns leave H alone. Will be up to you to play a variation of "its yer choice" with contact with your H as the reward. Stalking and pouncing on your H is rewarding of itself to your dog - so you have to prevent that happening if you want your dog to stop thinking it's fun. I am also working my dog's recall and distance (from me) sit/drop/stands/stops as a way of interrupting and redirecting stalking. your dog wouldn't be a farm dog of some variety - the behaviour is really popular with them. But farm and hunting dogs are only allowed to herd and stalk with permission.
  12. Lol - I think that's why some people go to training - cos their dogs are out of control... Personally I don't like my dog to greet another dog when they're both on lead unless they can both keep their leads loose. A dog on a tight lead forgets it has the retreat/flight option out of fight / flight /f reeze... A lot of fights or slanging matches (lots of growling) start this way. A dog that is too excited - doesn't matter why - can't keep its lead loose and is best avoided. The training club instructors ought to know about these things... but for years - letting dogs sort themselves out was considered ok. It's about as ok as letting my dog decide how much food she gets to eat (and what). Dogs are not always best at making decisions in their own best interests and with the rise of puppy farms and puppies being removed from their mums and litter mates at 6 weeks - they don't always learn dog body language and ettiquette before they are rehomed to people who also don't know about any of that stuff (or they would not have bought from a pet shop / puppy farm).
  13. This floated by my FB feed today - even tho it's almost a year old. There's another one "He just wants to say Hi" the point being - you do not need to let your dog say hello to every dog you meet - it's in both your best interests to be selective. Some big dogs play nice with smaller dogs but some are clutzes and will injure your dog accidentally. I don't think protecting your dog will cause it to be fearful... I used to think that people who picked their dogs up when they saw other dogs were silly but I've had a bit more (bad) experience now and I can't blame them. Sometimes I have a chat about it. And I might talk them through what a loose lead 2 second greeting might be like... cos my dog will helpfully pretend she has no legs (crawl) - which calms a little dog down usually even if they never get close enough to touch. And I'm fine with people picking up their (fear?) aggressive little dogs before they can attack mine - you know the ones that charge up to big dogs yelling their heads off and sometimes biting. Stopping that is a really good idea. However lots of owners just laugh. It's important that you do what you can to protect your dog, and that often means ignoring what other people say when it comes to forcing your dog to interact with other dogs friendly or not. You don't need to do that.
  14. well spotted Panto. Someone asks for advice and then decides to do their own thing against the advice and then comes back and asks again like we've got some magic wand trick we're keeping secret. Dog training isn't difficult but you do have to learn how to do it and then do it.
  15. mine likes to roll in dead fishy things but she's not interested in dead mammals or birds so far. (phew pyew)