MonElite

LL - I have some bite work videos from last year if you are interested to see them.

Id say that your timing is the correct one and mine is completly wrong. You are a pro, Im a "young" inexperienced amateur. I demand your videos, noone looks a the hair of the handler, they all look a the dogs LL! you can of course send them to me privatelly if you preffer

obviously not yet

for now she runs up to me, I move the ball higher and higher and she uses me as a springboard to get to it. Mind you she never succeeded in grabbing it out of my hand. Gotta love her. Just as a note, so far I have not trained her to sit after the recall, the recall itself was the excercise, so I rewarded her for making it all the way to me. Im now at the next step of asking for more. Ok I think I need more focus work.

Thanks. Since I attempt to train as K9 prescribes I of course want his reply as well, but there are several people here that train in drive so I direct my questions to everyone, its nice to see what people do and how they do it.

OK I need some help (again ) My girls recall is so fast that its scary. She is a 25kg pure bone and musce canon ball that has no intentions of stopping, and is happy about it. When she was smaller when training her Id throw the ball between my legs so that she would run full speed to me. Now she grew up and obviously still considers that she can just run between my legs to get the ball. So I have been sort of moving out of her way, or having the ball at the front of me, giving the sit command just before she arrives etc. Well Im bruised, Im scratched, I have half of my hand taken off at each and every arrival, or I hide the ball behind my back resulting in her lunging at my face to kiss me Its all good but this business of me kissing the ground on occasion basically becomes dangerous, I dont want to slow her down by reducing her drive, but how do I? Not that you can see much in of what happens to me but it might give you some idea. This is a short distance and she havent reached her full speed.

I dont think my dogs would want to escape. Maybe if I was driving away to follow me, other than that they are happy at home. When Rex way a youngster he jumped the fence to the neighbours few times, not to go anywhere other than their yard. The older neighbour is always at home/in the backyard so Rex went there for some company. I live next to a golf course and walk there each night. They love it, Rex thinks its ours. Once I came back home from work and the gate to go out there was wide open. I think someone jumped the fence in order to retrieve their golf ball than walked out through the gate without closing it. (Suicidal person obviously entering a yard with a dobe and a xxx insert rude word here xxx person for leaving the gate open) I bet Rex was out for a run and when he had enough he just went back home. You might also remember he was missing for 2 days about 2 years ago, where I believe someone opened the front gate and let himout, during the storm. He was hit by a bus and in panic running away got lost. I dont think he just escaped. It must be very distressing to own a dog that escapes, you arrive home each time thinking are they there or not....

I live in the inner city suburbia, but right next to a golf course My only neighbour has a silky terrier, but there are possums and rat on the golf course, there is no way I can get rid of them. A friend told me yesterday to spray the place with eucalyptus oil mixed with water, which I did (inside the house) I got a bit trigger happy and there is no way anyone will have a blocked nose at my place. I also sprayed the dogs and didnt see any fleas on them today. Washed the bedding again, sprayed the dog houses etc

OT - but so that you know there has been serious talk about that! Ill reaply Advanitix than, thsi is 5th application in 3.5 months, am I going to poison this puppy :D

The products that I have put on the dogs were Cant remember the name, we dont ahve this in Oz, it kills fleas, eggs, ticks, mosquitoes Didnt work at all, was a made in the USA product Second one was Advantage Third Frontline Fourth Advantix Each time I have cleaned up the place spotless, I dont have carpets at home at all, leather sofa, waterbed and basically no fabric for fleas to breed in. Each time washed their bedding. It seems the fleas go away for few days after I aplly the stuff but in a week they are back! She is on BARF and gets garlic in food already. What else can I do?

Ok I have a 6 month old puppy that I got at 3 months. In that time I have put 4 times on her anti flea stuff and cant get rid off them, the buggers!!! Both dogs has the stuff applied, all bedding washed, got rid of whatever could potentially been infested with fleas. I have applied advantix about a week ago, and yesterday - voila the fleas are on her again. I cant be applying so much antiflea stuff on such a young dog, what do I do to get rid of them?????

Excuse my total ignorance but what is this magic mat? My dogs dont counter surf, I have seen them sniffing the edges when the chicken is there, Divani ate a rollmops of my plate once but I in general dont have the prob, hence never investigated any solutions. Pls tell me what a mat is?

I thought you said he wasnt trained for protection work and that you could have taken his training further but chose not to. anyway, back on prey drive developement and focus. - I cant wait for longer days so I can go out after work and play with my dogs more. Last night I took Divani out for some training (we have been really slack and done nothing recently) so Im bruised all over again and have a fat lip after she jumped up at me, not sure either to kiss me or to grab the ball

get yourself a lesson with the guru of drives - the originator of this thread.

Aus - I dont follow, really. I understand you work as a security person. You had a dobe that was NOT trained for protection work. 1. - why did you take him to work on an odd occasion and pretended you worked him? 2. - if he was trained wouldnt he have to be "registered" with the company you work for? 3. - if he wasnt to be a working dog and was to never work as an official patrol dog why couldnt you train him PRIVATELLY for PP? (reasons other than cost and willingness to train, and his temperament) I imgine it was the peer pressure and taking a safe approach, correct? noone has ever asked me if I "work" my dog....... photo taken at Carolls at Domain about 2-3 years ago. Feel free to pm me, as this doesnt really add value to the prey drive thread. Im sure your dog was good enough to be trained for PP, you just chose not to for resont other than his temperament. Wether you had the knowledge to train him is another story. But the dog is now dead (RIP) so why wont we talk about what you do with your current dogs and how you do it, this might add value to the thread.

I should be declaring Rex a dangerous dog than He is most well behaved dog in the crowd situation, can be taken anywhere, and has been taken everywhere. And he is confident on top of that! And it would be pretty hard to find a lot more famous dog than my sexy Rexy............. in the neighbourhood, show ring, dobe world or even obiedience circuit (despite the fact he isnt that well trained).

I used to put a bandana, but it gave me the sh*ts, so at the end I just had the collar on and didnt care. I must say I was asked about it few times, but becouse my dog is really nice and well behaved (well with people that is) I never had any problems. Than I got the prong with the short spikes just in case one day someone said something. My suggestion is - convince those with the permit to import to get some of the short spiked ones, but from what I understand its a LOT of work to get them in. Plus the quality isnt as good as HS or Bosh or Pixie. Alternativelly an angle grainer is an option (only kidding, that isnt a real suggestion)

thanks thats exactly what I though, but reading Aus I thought that perhaps every dog that is trained to bite HAS to be declared dnagerous.

K9 are your dogs declared? (if not should they be?) feel free to answer privatelly.

Yes Sas I bought it in Poland during my recent visit. The standard prong collar on a short haired dog just stands out heaps, so I searched for alternatives. This is another type I have Most of my freinds like this type more than the first one I posted. They have 4 raws of spikes insead of two. These are not as effective but they are practically invisible on the dogs neck. They are not as good quality as HS or the ones K9 sells. Its a shame we cant get them here easily.

RB the prong you have is the typical one and the link wears itself inwith time and its not difficult to put it on a dog, it might take some time to wear in tho. And you are just a proof of that it isnt the tool only, you also need a method.

Oh and there are some plastic ones I think american made and they dont look like prongs on the outside as the plastic is kind off solid plate for each link, but they interlock with plastic as well and will unclip if not carefull. This is my recent choice

I have tried the one in pic nr 2 the little release on the snap catches on the clip of the lead and accidently releases the collar completly off the dog. I certainly dont recomend that type. The 3 and 4 dont have the "checking" ability, the only one worth getting is nr and now you know where to get it from.

If you breed through your mouth instead of your nose you will have lower smelling effects on your body. When I cut onion I just bite on a match or a toothpick and taht makes you breethe through your mouth. Try and see.

Denis :D if there is any petition - where do I sign? ;) ;) ;) You just did. Thanks for your opinion. Thats if you were talking about me of course. It wasnt designed to do anything for you, Im wondering why would you think it was. Can you enlightlen me pls. As to the training methods, equipement and results - Why dont you show all of us your dogs training so that somoene can tell you what they think of it. Not that you would care of course. I get this distinct feeling that we already asked you for a video and you still, month later, didnt deliver one.....