Scales of Justice

I have Revolution Green (dark green), it has 2.0 ml (120mg/mL Selamectin) in each tube and it says 20.1-40 kgs. Don't know if that helps or not.

I change to Adult formulation around 8 months.

It could well be panoestitis. Panoestitis is growing pains. I think you should visit the vet for a positive diagnosis as he may need antibiotics. I would continue to feed him a balanced premium food and change to an adult formulation such as Eukanuba or Royal Canin. I would go for a Maintenance version, not a Performance version of the dog food as the Performance version may be too high in protein. I would not let him romp with another dog until you sort his problem out. The vet can advise you.

Sounds like symptoms of kennel cough to me. Have you ruled out kennel cough?

The answer to your question is usually not. Inverted vulvas rectify usually after the first season, but they can cause infections before that. I presume your father's dog is only young.

I would be spending the money at the vets to get a diagnosis - things which spring to mind for this sort of problem could be elbow issues, hip issues, or panoestitis - all which should be diagnosed rather sooner than later.

A large marrow bone for hours of entertainment.

I have seen knuckling over when the diet is not balanced. Cut out the milk and feed only a balanced dry preparation especially for puppies. It should fix itself once the balance is returned.

Sounds like he was having a very nice time having a "thoughty".

He hasn't had any access to snail bait has he? They can bleed from the gums with snail bait poisoning.

I don't feed chicken necks at all. My vet told me that he does many bowel obstruction operations from lodged chicken necks, and he does not recommend feeding them at all.

If you are digging the grubs out of the ground, chances are they are not witchety grubs but curl grubs. I am not sure they are as edible as witchety grubs so they might be a problem.

I use it regularly - its great. We don't have ticks but I've used it when going into tick areas and have never had any problems. You can also mix it up and spray it on in between baths - its an excellent way of keeping it topped up. I agree - every three days it needs "topping up".

If the bleeding is caused by hookworm it may take a few days to settle after worming.

Not sure where you hail from, but if you have had lots of rain in the last few months and been anywhere to frequently used doggy areas (dog parks, dog shows etc). my first suspicion would be hookworm. You say you regularly worm your dog, but have you wormed within the last 3 weeks? If not I would first worm your dog for hookworm. If the bleeding did not dissipate after that then I would consider the possibility of a number of things - colitis, giardia, coccidiosis etc. If your dog's droppings are sloppy any of the above could be possible.

Sounds to me like he has become pack leader and this is a disastrous scenario with children. You should seriously consider some help from a trainer, but my guess is that the pack pecking order (human and dog) has already been established.

Huski, You are right, but whoever uses a raw diet needs to make sure the diet is entirely balanced and not just guesswork especially when they have a large breed. For large breeds they need an exacting amount of calcium to phosphorus ratio which is why the premium dog food companies bring out a LARGE BREED dog food specifically for their growth needs.

Andisa, Forgive my scepticism but with only one dog scored (and you don't say whether it was a great score or even whether it is a pass), it cannot be demonstrated that your diet including milk is or isn't affecting your scores for hips and elbows. I've had MANY dogs scored for hips and elbows and ALL passed with excellent scores well below the breed average - all on a premium dry food diet. I believe the food plays an enormous part in terms of joint support whilst growing and the correct amount of calcium/phosphorous is vital. There is a great debate about how much environment plays a part and yes there may be environmental factors involved in some poor hip readings, but I believe anyone who uses environment to "explain away" hip and elbow issues probably needs to take a long hard look at their feeding practices. (not having a go at you by the way, just how I feel about people who use environment as a cop out etc.)

Just interested Andisa Do you x-ray your dogs for hips and elbows?

I totally disagree with this for a German Shepherd if you want good hips and elbows. The absolute correct calcium:phosphorus ratio and the inclusion of chondroitin for joint growth is a must for German Shepherds. These balances are best not left to guesswork. How do you know how much calcium and phosphorus is going into your puppy when you are using foods other than formulated dry foods? When you add milk you may tip the balance to the calcium side and put the correct ratio out of balance. Good quality large breed premium foods take all this into account. German Shepherds do not generally have a good gut tolerance for milk as it is well known that GSDs may have less than good digestive processes and are prone to gut complaints if fed incorrectly. Edited for spelling

A GOOD quality dry food should not give a puppy the runs. Perhaps you should consider taking a faecal sample to the vet to be checked. He may have a bacterial overload of the gut which is more likely to be precipitated by raw food than by dry food or he may have other issues which may show up on faecal examination. Either way if you are undecided about whether the diet is correct, why take the risk?

I agree with Rappie and dogmad, lip licking is a sign of anxiety

Reading all your posts, don't you think that this is just too much guesswork for this vital growth stage? Have you considered that anything you do wrong now may impact on the puppy's hip and elbow scores later? If I were in your shoes I would be feeding Royal Canin (for his age) as 100% of his diet until after 12 months of age, to be sure you get the hips and elbows right. You only get one chance at it. I would be changing his diet to formulated puppy food as soon as possible (and not just as a supplement, but as a 100% diet). You can change to BARF later after 12 months of age.

She might have the spinal problem - DM - a symptom of which is dragging the hind toes. If it was a cruciate problem she would probably be lame on one leg (not drag both). If you have any further problems I would definitely get a vet's advice.

You can purchase sprays which kill parvovirus - I think one is called Virkon (not sure of the spelling).