Rusky

I wrote to a guy a few years ago who offered training advice for Malamutes. I was very interested. The guy said he was happy to give me all the info I wanted but first I should buy the prong collar. They are banned in Australia and if found will be seized by customs cos I made enquiries. I didn't purchase the collar. I have asked around about prongs and peoples ideas are different, some people I have the greatest respect for advocate their use. I also know some others who I equally respect who hate them. They are not available here, so really there isn't an issue. Well unless we get into illegal importing

I bought just on Saturday Natures gift products in Woolies. We live in WA. Proudly made in Australia they have a wesite. I bought some treats and kibble for the reward ball. natures gift what a very nteresting thread. Hope all works out ok.

He is too young and should be inside with you. Certainly get the pup used to spending time away from you, left alone in the garden etc. That should be done slowly so the pup doesn't get distressed or anxious.

do you use cotton buds? How do you get to the back, I have a goldie with yellow back teeth, she is 13 though. She has chicken frames, long bones and greenies. Front ones are ok just a couple of brown spots. great thread BTW

oh nearly forgot, my son got the beautiful 'Jess' from a pound just before xmas, she wasn't able to be desexed till her cough cleared. She didn't have it bad at all, vet said it was mild. Cough lasted nearly 3 weeks and we were getting frantic cos I was sure she was in pup, she wasn't and was fixed up on Tuesday.

Kit Kat we live in a kennel area, when KC is around the kennel dogs get it. My vet when one of my dogs got KC said it really cannot be prevented. There are so many varients of KC the vaccination will be a preventative against the worst, there is no such thing as immunity to KC post KC, he meant developed immunity via the disease. The medicine we took was as a preventative against pneumonia as she is a big dog, as are yours I think Antiobiotics will not treat KC it is a virus. Antibiotics are for conditions developed due to KC. Not all dogs get these. I was so scared of pneumonia I walked poor Rusky half the night one night. If she was lying down I got her up. I made her own cough medicine as she couldn't tolerate the vet prescription. I sat up for 2 nights. Interestingly my elderly dog didn't develop KC, I kept them apart. It sounds so terrible, breaks your heart, but they recover, thank God I am confident yours will get well soon

Exactly what Gemibabe said is the way to go. We used this method today to introduce our sons new beautiful rescue ?? amstaff?? dog to a baby aged 12 months. All went well so I let Jess off lead, we were all there supervising, no problems, bit of a sniff, started to lick I distracted the dog, that was it, she lost interest. The baby is not worried about dogs though she is used to a few around the place. Jess was crated on and off all day for other reasons we had no problems, she seems to like children as later a 4 yr old arrived and we did the same, so did she sniff and a lick (or tried to) we kept on lead for introductions, short but not tight. Do not allow the dog to jump.

you need to train your dog not to pull but I am still not sure what methods you have tried. I did ask you but maybe you didn't read the post. Try this is not heeling but a pleasant walk for you, well eventually. :D Keep dpg on your left side anyway and still walk off with left foot so dog gets used to which foot to follow. Then use food to lure pup to stay at your side, try for a few mins, reward for not pulling. Keep food in your left hand, just a little to sniff and follow, not to gobble up. Give a tit bit of food if the dog walks nicely, none and no praise if it doesn't. If dog jumps up stop, say nothing, walk using the method below. Then try just walking allowing the dog to sniff but not to pull, soon as dog pulls you stop, then you immediately change direction. Soon as dog pulls you stop and change direction again. You need a nice lead, not a cheap plastic red dot dime store special. Generally dog clubs do sell nice leads, they are cheap, you need something which doesn't burn your hand. This stop and go method can mean it takes you half an hour to get down the driveway, it confuses the dog too. Do not use a halti whilst using this method. When the dog has stopped pulling again try food lure rewards for staying at your side, with masses of praise. Hope this helps a little, there are many methods, these are the 2 easiest to explain. Good Luck :rolleyes:

What methods have you tried already? The halti without all the usual methods of training is going to be useless because then all you will have is a dog who pulls when he doesn't wear a halti. You need to train the dog not to pull. So what have you tried? I like the safe use of halti but many people need lessons in how to use it. Akita and dog day do as I like to do with the halti but it isn't a single solution.

I am with shadowboxer This is my number one rule

regarding ringing and training all will have finished now in general classes till February. I would suggest when you speak to Bunbury that you tell them the serious problems you are having and the urgency required to ensure your pup is not PTS. They will probably suggest someone to help you. This will be a private arrangement. I am going to make some enquiries on your behalf for a suitable person in the Bussleton area. I can't promise anything but will try. There are some people who do private stuff and rather than individually take a few handlers and their dogs to keep costs down. I have no idea who there might be in your area. You have a reward ball..... make the hole smaller

Whisper only 19 years old but you are so lucky to have the insight to know that you need help. I watched your defence in other posts but this one makes me realise you really are asking for help. You need it now as Ann says, read her post well. Ring the number, I am sure someone will help you. My feeling is you have given this pup so many mixed messages with the best of intentions that he is now confused and maybe even afraid. Please reward with food and pats and good boy for good behaviour. Please feed him separately from the cat and Mums dog, don't let them see each other eating. (I am refering to your previous feeding post) If he needs a secure run make sure has shade, shelter fresh water, toys, buy him a kong and load with treats like cheese, biscuits, vegemite, etc. Please don't smack or chain check, he is still too young for collar check, can hurt him. I don't like collar check in any case but even in old style training a pup so young didn't have collar check. Good luck to you both.

I am sure there is a club in Bussleton Ring Bunbury however and they will give you any info I am sure. BUNBURY & DISTRICTS DOG CLUB INC Bunbury (08) 9721 4257

you need to read the reply workndog gave you to your feeding problem and use that in conjunction with Annes reply. You and your puppy need an obedience trainer. A trainer does not train your puppy but gives you the skills required to train your dog yourself. Good luck Whisper and to your wee pup

My first post but this thread compelled me to register. Whisper there has been some really good advice given to you. My 2 cents are don't smack your puppy feed dogs and cat separately, always and forever. get puppies food ready leave food on bench bring puppy in on a lead ask puppy to sit on the mat reward with a pat, good puppy. ask puppy to wait. good puppy. Get the food put down slowly, again ask puppy to wait ( is still on a leash) make the distance and time short. Time just a few seconds, distance a couple of feet only. Give a release word like 'OK eat' or ok dinner. or whatever. Please whisper take your puppy to obedience class, you will enjoy and so will your pup, you will learn and have fun.