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  1. New Puppy - Transport - Fly or Drive?

    I collected a puppy that was about the same distance away years ago, and going by car (with another driver) was a huge success. Puppy got to know us gently (hearing, smelling us etc without pressure if that makes sense), and the car (and crate) became his safe space. The crate was on the back seat and after a while we opened the crate door and he could chose to stay in or come out on to the back seat. Frequent (puppy timed) comfort stops also meant he was house trained on the way. He never made a mistake in the house when we got home. Please note - this was long before dog seatbelts and tethering a dog in the car was unheard of - so our set up worked then, perhaps not now. BUT - our pup was an amazing traveller. I imagine it would quickly become a horror trip if the pup wouldn't settle and whinged constantly (GSD's can be 'talkative' :-)) or even worse - ypou were stuck with a carsick who drooled and hurled the whole way :-( I have flown other pups and they came through it without a care - very tired, but not stressed. Not sure if the above rambling helped :-)
  2. thanks everyone - I will pass on all the information, really helpful :-)
  3. thanks Jemappelle - certainly did. I tried googling Shih Tzu - and kept getting crossbred groups. aaahhhh. A lot harder now than it was before :-)
  4. Hi, A friend of mine is looking for a dog, and is very keen on the Shih Tzu. About them: It is a working household, but staggered hours and several days working from home, so the dog would be home alone at times, but not a lot No dogs currently, but have had dogs before - so know the ropes, and the dog would genuinely be part of the household Want a puppy, preferably from SA (only 2 breeders in the directory, so not sure if SA would work) I only know the breed in general, but they have always struck me as happy, sensible and good little citizens (as always, nature and nurture) Health wise they seem pretty good - PRA, patella's and entropia seem to be the common issues - is there anything I have missed? Would love to hear peoples experiences with the breed (good or not so good), recommendations on breeders (SA or interstate), other things to consider, or even other breeds (Cavaliers appealed to them, but I have heard so many horror health stories - but would love to hear that either I am wrong, or there are 'safer' lines/breeders ....... I suggested Havanese.) thanks
  5. Hi, Hope your mum is feeling better soon. I agree with a vet check to start - it's possible he has been losing hearing/eyesight gradually (so not noticed), and the change in circumstances have added another dimension to his confidence level. Animals are so tuned to nuances - I assume she has had him all (or at least most of) his life, so he would have completely picked up that she is not well and the different activities/visitors/coming and going will be adding to his stress. Even if he is not showing it, he will be a very confused and upset boy at the moment. Is he destructive? If not, can he be left inside when she goes out? It may not work (worst case scenario he will go through a window - so need to test and be careful before doing it), but I know when there are significant changes in my house, the dogs are more comfortable in the house - they find their spot and settle. If he is safe with windows, he can also 'keep watch' and see if the car is there and know when it comes in the driveway. A determined fence jumper is extremely hard to fix. I am assuming it is a new problem, which (with the changes) mean he is very determined, and unless the fence is not very long and has easy access, then it could be father costly. Containment is probably easiest - but unless he is comfortable in the space, it would be terrible for him mentally, so it would need to be the right solution, Re the night time situation - can the back door be left open or a doggie door installed? That way he can take himself out when needed. I can't offer any any help with the pad training, sorry. Good luck with whatever you choose
  6. Working lines vs show lines

    The showring conversation has been going on for decades - 'look' v 'what the breed was originally bred for'. Many, many moons ago (25-30 years) I showed shetland sheepdogs. Had a bitch that was sound as a bell with the most amazing movement, great outline, fantastic attitude, lots of positives. BUT, she had two faults - heavy ears (not out of standard, but too heavy) and not the most appealing markings. Her head was good overall, and her ears weren't horrible, but were heavy. She titled easily, won her class at the Royal, won many BIGs etc, but if the judge was looking for the 'pretty, glamour puff', then my girl was probably not their cup of tea. I remember one show in particular - the judge took ages to award challenge - it was between me and another bitch. The other bitch was a 'chocolate box sheltie'. Sweet expression, gorgeous colour, great coat etc - but could not move out of sight on a black night. It was around the ring, stack, around the ring, stack (multiple times). He then gave it to the other bitch (oh well, we won lots, but got beaten lots - that's showing). BUT - he made a fool out of himself (in my eyes) in two ways. (A) - he gave it to the other bitch whilst we were moving (should have done it when we were lined up) and (B) when he gave me reserve he said 'sorry, I had to weigh up what was the bigger issue - ears or movement). Again, I had zero issues being beaten - she was a lovely bitch overall. What it did demonstrate to me was that the fundamental purpose of the breed was not a consideration (at least in that case )
  7. The Claytons 52/2019

    Hi - about as late as possible for 2019, but this is Daisy - helping me change the linen on my bed (then she saw something interesting out the window and I was able to snap this :-)) Loving all the photos
  8. Am I going crazy?

    It is hard - so much ignorance must become hard to ignore. I don't know Rotti's well, but everyone I have known have been wonderful, gentle dogs. My only advise is to 'be alert but not alarmed' (showing my age here Mr Howard :-)). He is only 9 months, so he is not fully matured. When he gets older he may start to 'push his luck' or have times when he is being a 'jerk' - and because of his size and jaw strength the impacts (and response by other people) of that behaviour will be different than if the same activity was done my a (for example) sheltie or whippet. Most dogs who go through the 'teenage' stage start with body language (this the alert comment), so you can 'nip it in the bud' if needed. But if he is a well adjusted young citizen, I don't think he would go Cujo without notice. I would love to suggest a good response to the comments, but I am not that witty unfortunately :-)
  9. Whilst the idea of a register sounds good in theory, there are lots of drawbacks (some noted above). Another one is that a breeder can have a sound line and be doing everything they can (so be rated well on a registry), and then one of those 'things' crop up that has causation linked to genetics, how they are raised, nutrition and just plain luck (eg: HD) - the owner is then looking at the breeder, the vets and the registry as dodgy, unethical and untrustworthy
  10. What type of dog should I get?

    To me it depends on the 'non dog' persons attitude - are they neutral or against? If one person in the household just isn't in to dogs - then that is fine, as long as one (or more) people are, then it will most probably work as the dog (or whichever pet) will get the interaction, care etc that's needed. But if someone is against the pet idea - then there will most likely be friction etc. EG: Dog barks a couple of times (even the quietest dog will hear/see something). If that is met with yelling/blaming etc, then it will go pear shaped quickly. Dogs are going to bark, dig, annoy, shed, interfere, get in the way, cost money etc etc. If that is understood accepted, then these things soon are ignored/forgotten in the whole picture and the good far outweighs these things. But if the 'no dog' person says - you can have one as long as it doesn't bark, shed, dig etc etc - and especially if they are not the most tolerant person - then it will be an issue. Back to the question about 'which type' - I would recommend not a working/herding breed or a terrier due to energy and intensity levels - perhaps a whippet (as long as it clearly knows chasing cats is not on :-))
  11. 4 months old, Jap Spitz with 1 testicle

    Given it was there and easily felt at 8 weeks, I would give it a bit longer before being too worried. Did you feel it at 8 weeks? I am wondering where it was (they can be very high and able to be gently moved down, or they can be actually down). If you don't know how to check yourself, it may be beneficial to find out how - then you can check him quietly. I have known 'shy' boys who were very hard to check when they were stressed or excited (like at a vets) - but they were easily found when checking them gently when they were nice and quietly sitting on the lounge in the evening. By 4 months I would want them to be 'findable' in some way, and at 6-7 months I would want them fully down. Some boys have them showing loud and proud at 8 weeks, others have one (or both) who move up and down for a while.
  12. You may be surprised at the condition of his back teeth once they are cleaned. I have just had a dental done on my SWF. I knew he would need to have teeth removed, but neither the vet or I knew how many until he was under. He ended up having all incisors removed (a couple were ok, but leaving just a few odd ones would have caused more issues than taking them all out). His back teeth looked dodgy, but all they needed was a good clean. So now he has a perfect mouth from his canines back, but nothing across the front. I wouldn't remove good teeth just to avoid a possible surgery later on, but if they are terrible, then even if it is a big procedure, it would be better than him living with mouth pain. Animals are too stoic for their own good, particularly when it is not something they can hold up like a paw A cat story - years ago I had an old cat. Her teeth were bad, but after discussion with the vet we decided not to remove them as she had such a tiny mouth he was concerned she may end up with a broken/weak jaw due to the roots being so big. She was an old girl and as she started to slow down and sleep more I initially put it down to age. But after 6 months I went back and told him that even though she was eating etc, I thought it was pain, and that I wanted the surgery - with full understanding that if he encountered significant issues with her bottom jaw I understood that he may have to put her down on the table. I have never cried so much - she got through the surgery so well and within a week I had my 'kitten' back - playing, running, talking, stalking me in the bedroom etc etc. Her mouth must have been so painful - and it was on my watch. I have never felt so guilty.
  13. thanks Scratch - will check both out Boronia - thanks for the suggestion, but I would prefer one that was purpose built for the arm (which I need) - she is a 'special' one :-D
  14. Hi, I have a RC collie, and to groom her myself I need a proper grooming table (with the arm for her lead etc). I used to show, so know how to groom etc (that part is not a problem), but she is a bit of a precious child (most polite term I could find :-D) so I need the right set up. IE - if the table is not completely stable she will make it worse by shaking, shuddering etc. If she is not tied, she wiggles, fights, complains etc. In a nutshell - if the set up is right, she is an angel. If it is not the right set up, you would swear she has never been groomed in her life (and she is a fully trained ex-show dog - so she knows what to do, she just also knows how to get around things). I have been getting her done at a grooming place - but that is silly expensive and inconvenient - so I am going to get a table and do it myself. Any suggestions on either where to buy a good second hand one, or recommendations on a new one? It will only be used at home, so features such as being light, easy to move, fits well in cars, looks new etc aren't important. Just needs to be a safe, sturdy table thanks
  15. Debarking

    I think there are two different situations in play - the anxiousness, and one of the ways it is being exhibited (barking). Working on the anxiety is a must and is a long term management situation. I don't imagine that anyone who has responded believes otherwise. BUT - having a dog who continually barks to the point that three different sets of neighbours have lodged formal complaints, is an issue that needs to be addressed as well. I would imagine having an owner who was (totally understandably) agitated with each bark would not create the calm environment that is right to help a dog relax. A barking dog can result in neighbour complaints (already happened x 3), council issues (already happened x 3) , being forced to move ((already happened x 2), PLUS worried about some crackpot taking matters in their own hand and opening a gate, poisoning a dog etc etc (already threatened). And until the anxiety is controlled, it is difficult to identify the root cause. The barking may be completely as a result of the anxiety, or it may also be a learned behaviour, or she may just be a noisy dog - or it could be a combination of all three. Debarking is surgery - so it has the risks of every surgery - and as I said, should never be a decision made lightly. However, my thought is that if it results in lowering the anxiety in the owner, the neighbours and the dog (no collars, no being told to be quiet etc), then it is not cruel when other things have been tried. It will remove one part of a complex problem