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Everything posted by BDJ

  1. Good morning - thought I would give an update (and that it also may be helpful for anyone else in a similar situation in the future). I was doing some work which meant I was going in and out the front a lot on the Saturday, so both dogs were locked outside all day (I always do that to remove any chance of the front door being left open accidently), and I took the opportunity to take his 'night area' away completely and wash everything. The only thing left in the house was his bed. He was very confused when he came inside, with lots of wandering and sniffing. That night I left the backdoor open and he could go in and out as needed. I became hyper vigilant and at the first sign of sniffing took him out for a pee, and back to me taking him outside first thing every morning and after a nap - with heaps of praise for going outside On night two there was a pee on the floor in the morning (no response from me, just wiped it up), and on about day four during the day he started to squat where the pads used to be. I jumped up very quickly and ran outside calling him urgently. I in no way growled at him, but he is not used to seeing me jump and run so fast, nor call him so 'quick, quick hurry' (I am usually quite slow ). He came running outside (probably thinking that a horrible catastrophe was happening inside ) with heaps of praise again when he went. And that was the last mistake/near miss Ongoing 'back to basics' for a week and my little man is now house trained. We are both still learning his 'tells' when the door is closed, so I take him out/let him out more than needed, but I figure better a false positive or three rather than him being uncomfortable and/or making a mistake
  2. Hi, I have never fed chicken necks, I have always worried about the dog being greedy and throwing them down their throat without chewing it properly and choking etc. But - everywhere I read they are recommended. So, can I ask this group for some helpful advice pls. I have a 4 mo sheltie pup who is very 'eager' with his food. Am I being a nervous nancy and feed them, or should they only be fed to dogs who are less fast/gobbly eaters? If I should feed them - skin on or skin off? thanks
  3. Thanks guys, i reckon you are right and time to bite the bullet. Interestingly, we did a three hour each way day trip on Saturday. Made a couple of stops going there and no stops on the way back. He waited till we got there and later till we were home and had the biggest pee both times. So that showed me (a) he is naturally clean where possible and (b) he can wait when needed, so will be able to take himself out when he needs to. Thanks again
  4. Not sure why they are called 'rough coat' rather than 'long haired', but it could be because collies have a double coat (undercoat and topcoat) so their coat doesn't lie totally flat to their body, it is a double coat. Smooth coat collies have a double coat as well, it is just that their topcoat is shorter. Most breeds I can think of which have 'long haired' or 'long coat' varieties seem to be single coated. Could be extremely wrong (hehe) it is just my thought. Regarding the care of their coat, a well bred, correctly coated collie (and sheltie) actually require a lot less grooming that it looks like. Their coat is naturally quick drying, when they do get drenched, they dry quickly. But it actually takes a lot to get them wet to the skin and have the water get through their coat. My girl can be out in the rain (don't ask me why, back door open - her choice) and she comes in looking quite wet, but it is all on top, not soaked in. My girl gets a thorough groom monthly, and that is it. This was her at the beach yesterday, and as you can see she was wading well up to her belly. Back on the sand, quick shake and a wander in the sun and dry as a bone. No need for a bath, or anything more than a quick brush on her legs to get rid of the sand.
  5. Hi, I have not housetrained a pup for many a year, and have a question I am hoping for some help with. I have a 16 week old male sheltie. Home situation is that during the day he has unfettered access to inside/outside. Back door is always open and he can come and go as he pleases. When it gets dark the back door is closed and I let him out every hour or so. Overnight he is in a pen (approx 2m x 1m, not a crate, confined to a section of the room by a wire playpen) in the family room. The pen area is open through the day and he walks in and out as he wants. The pen area has his a tarp on the floor with piddle pads on top (also his bed and water etc). The backyard is super secure, and there is no reason I keep him confined at night, just haven't stopped 'putting him to bed' yet (I also have an adult collie. She is perfect with her cleanliness and if the door is closed and she wants to pee/whatever she just comes up and asks me). The thing is that he will often use the piddle pads through the day. He does pee outside, but if he is inside he will go to the pad rather than outside. He hasn't made a mistake (as in on floor or mat etc for over a month). I had a piece of lambswool on the floor that I had to pick up as he was peeing on it, but I think that was confusion due to the colour. Since I picked that up (fingers crossed) he has been perfect. I have been observing his patterns and he still has the bladder of a mouse and a 'go when I think about it' mentality. The standard 'take him outside when he first wakes up and after eating' etc worked perfectly, so it is not about not knowing where to go, more that he has two places (outside and pads) So - at what stage do I pick up the piddle pads and tarp/pen and treat him as an adult (aka, no locking away at night, he will be inside/outside/wherever he wants overnight)? I am trying to find the right window between risking him going backwards and making mistakes inside VS him getting to used to 'inside peeing' and no realising outside is normal. thanks :-)
  6. My main problem with 'oodles' is that there is very rarely any knowledge on what that means re the parentage and background of that INDIVIDUAL animal. I was at the vets the other day and a shaggy mostly black pup (around 6 mo, with the approx size of a standard poodle of that age (but more heavy set)) came in. When asked what breed it was, it was described as a 'Bernia shoodle' and the owner went on to say the father was a 1/2 Bernese 1/2 Retriever and the mother was a 1/2 Schnauzer and 1/2 Poodle. Now call me cynical, but I reckon it was most likely cross bred back half a dozen generations and was a whole mix of 'who knows'. But, he was cute, tail waggy and shaggy - and was getting lots of 'oohs and ahhs'. I have just bought a Sheltie - he is as everything I wanted and I am stoked with him. He was not as expensive as I see 'oodles' sold for, and I am very confident I know exactly what temperament and personality he is going to have as an adult, what size and colour he will end up, what his coat and grooming needs will be, and what health conditions he is most prone to have. I could not predict any of that with any level of confidence if I was the owner of the black pup I saw at the vets. The opinion I have had for many years as that purebred people responsibly breeding for the pet market is not a bad thing - in fact it should be celebrated and encouraged. A happy, confident, friendly, 'good citizen' purebred dog is the best advert there is, and it is more than money can buy. One thing that does need to change (and don't know how to do it) is the perception of looking after coat and how hard it is to have a double coated dog, and therefore how 'easy' an oodle is. It is wrong, but the general public don't get it. I have a RC collie who gets a good groom once every 5-6 weeks (with an extra session twice yearly at coat change) and barely touched between those grooms (only removing burs etc from her feathering). Zero knots/smells/tangles etc etc. Perfect coat. Yet virtually everyone who meets her says 'oh, she is so pretty and her hair is perfect - I bet you spend hours each day to make her look this good'. Nope, good breeding and a great coat goes a long way.
  7. Thanks. Pics and information is very helpful
  8. Thanks both for your responses. I think I didn't explain a few things properly, so expanding a bit - definitely would not be an 'oodle', whichever breed he chooses it will be a purebred. Mum and I showed group 5 dogs decades ago. He wasn't very interested, but at the few shows he went to he would have seen poodles in show clips, and like many people that is what he first imagines when he first thinks of poodles (this is apparently why 'oodles' are so popular - 'Joe public' can have the perception that poodles are 'fussy, fluffly prancies' whereas an 'oodle' seems more family friendly. I know that is wrong but perception can be reality to some) - a clipped (short) coat is no problem. Just not a double long coat (sheltie etc) - Bedlington is a great idea, thank you - Unfortunately the breeder is no longer breeding. He hasnt decided yet whether it will be a pup or an older dog, but certainly worth considering - His next dog will be valued for its own sake, so pls dont worry about that. It is just a consideration. He lost his constant (and I mean constant) friend and companion of 14 years and is not rushing in at all. He has pegged 'early/mid year' as a timeframe, but that is completely variable and up to him thanks again both
  9. Good morning. My brother lost his whippet this week , and I would appreciate any thoughts on any breeds I can make him aware of. He said it will be early/mid year before he thinks he will be looking, so plenty of time for research etc. His dog was perfect (at least in his eyes - I found his constant attempts to eat the cat food and shred tissues a tad frustrating, but that is another story - all jokes aside, he genuinely was an amazing dog and has left a huge hole in our hearts). He has not dismissed getting another whippet (actually was always his plan) but there is the risk that another whippet will always be compared and have to 'live up to', so exploring options. Some specific information: Smooth/short coat (he prefers the look, nothing to do with grooming) Loyal and human orientated Good with cats similar size not an energizer bunny (will get exercise and stimulation, but personal circumstances means there will be a lot of resting at home) my brother is home a lot - and when he isn't, I usually am. So not 'always someone home' guaranteed, but genuinely 90-95% of the time He has fallen in love with a couple of 'oodles' that he sees at a business he goes to. I have mentioned a poodle and he wasn't keen - but when he thinks poodle he visualises show clips etc. Would love to see 'pet clip' photos, and also some thoughts on whether they would be a good fit. I know that it is also up to individual dogs, but breeds that meet these these traits would be appreciated please
  10. I agree that it is best to be very careful. As with anything there will always be those who take advantage if situations and scenarios Personally I think that some of the information is very pointed to a single breeder/customer relationship, but the general flavour is good (when it comes to ideas and points to make you think with head rather than head). I am not commenting on what is right re the health side of it. Very emotive (understandable) - but I dont like blanket statements. A breeder has the ability to do their due diligence re bloodlines and raise a pup well. BUT - they cant control what happens when a pup leaves their home and it needs to be remembered that they only observe a pup for a few weeks. Owners take a risk when buying a pup. A living critter (human, dog or earthworm) is subject to a huge range of things which can go wrong, and I dont think that something with a pulse can be completely guaranteed for ANY period of time I dont agree with the FB comment though. Not all breeders are on social media, and I dont think that is a good indicator - especially when we have all experienced fake on FB (and other social media). A friend of mine wanted a pup a couple of years ago and contacted a breeder I knew 20 years ago. She rang me a few times seeking assurance as the breeder was 'vague, slow to respond, didnt share a lot of pics' etc etc. This was purely because the breeder wasnt tech savvy, didnt use any social media, and had a heck of a lot going on. Thankfully my friend trusted my endorsement and sat back - and realised that not everyone managed their life the same way they did and 'different' was not 'wrong' - she now has a dog she absolutely adores and is exactly what she wanted. So - wrapping up, I think the above are all good points to read, but it is not all logical to take on completely face value.
  11. I completely understand (and support) the need for service dogs - but I personally believe it has gone too far when it comes to support dogs. A well trained support dog provides its owner with invaluable assistance and allows them to engage when often they would not be able to. But it seems to me that (a) the 'need' seems to be ever increasing and the requirement criteria is hard to define, and (b) the dogs used are not always suitable for the stress that comes with the gig [how many dogs are happy, confident and great citizens in EVERY situation] Guide dogs and dogs that alert for a specific health need have intensive training to a standard level. However, it seems to me (happy to be corrected) that 'assistance dogs' and 'service dogs' seems to be anything from fantastic to yikes. Is there an international minimum standard with a set criteria (both for the human and the dog)? Sorry - if that is the picture of the actual dog in question - the even without the farting, the breathing and the drooling would have driven me nuts being right next to it for 13 hours. Yep, have been on plenty of flights with children who are unsettled (or screaming) and that is not fun - but I expect that may happen. I would not expect to have to share my footspace with a dog that was unsettled, snuffling, flicking saliva, and anxious. I wonder if the airline has to advise surrounding passengers before the flight? What if you are allergic, or have a fear of dogs?
  12. thanks for sharing - so very, very true
  13. I love the idea of the horse halter (or anything else that is so 'amazing' and different to the pup/dog) as such a simple yet effective distraction. There are all the new fangled ideas and things out there - but the basic idea of a safe and 'normal' thing which is enough to break the activity and divert attention and exercise is often all that is needed. Can be anything that is out of the ordinary enough to be a 'must check out now' thing. @asal - maybe you can market it and turn those $20 halters in to a $200 training aid :-D
  14. @Diva do you have any video or links to the show you quoted (or even the dogs)? - sounds amazing and I would love to have a look. ta
  15. Not a dog - but a cat. He went in for a routine dental, and somehow (one in a very large number chance) bacteria got in to his eye via the bloodstream, and once there caused chaos. Had the dental on the Friday, Monday night at the eye specialist as an emergency, and eye removed first thing Tue AM. He was 12 at the time. He never, ever looked back. He was jumping on things within 24 hours, never walked in to anything and no issues with depth perception etc. You have to really look to even notice. I was never offered a prosthetic, and even if offered would never have considered it. Reasons - (a) it is another thing to cause pain/discomfort that they cant tell us about. If it was rubbing, sitting in a nerve, pinching or whatever then it would hurt them, (b) they don't care what they look like (c) in my experience everything just shrunk back with no issues to any other part of him (nose, sinus, mouth etc) and (d) I just think it would look a bit weird (personal thought) Have attached a photo of him taken around 6 months post op (I know this makes it seem obvious, but I honestly never 'see' it)
  16. I agree with keeping mum with them - she will teach them so much. As long as she can have some alone time and get a break from them, then she is the perfect way for them to learn manners. Another option for raw meat is scraping rather than mince. Get a piece of beef, and drag a spoon across it quite firmly. You will get almost a 'paste' type consistency, which is very easy for little mouths to cope with. Enjoy the babies - ahhhh, puppy breath, the best smell in the universe in my book
  17. My 2c on the topic. I never go to fenced offleash areas - I have walked and driven past them, and it appears they are heavily populated by dogs who have no recall and owners have limited control (yes, that is a generalisation, but they are my observations). Following on from that observation, I feel there is increased risk of injury, fights and altercations due to dog rudeness and pack behaviour. Apart from that, many I have seen have hard/gravel type surfaces, which would be uncomfortable on feet methinks. I am fortunate to have a large (a couple of acres) park just up the road which is offleash. It has trees and shrubs which also make for informal 'zones', so it is easy to find an area where you can be in peace and quiet. It is not perfect, and I have seen a couple of rude/pushy dogs over the years, but not often. I also go to the offleash beach - again, it is very long, so people walk, rather than stand around. I do get royally peeved with people who don't understand/accept that some people don't want (or are scared of) dogs who run up to them. I don't give a fig how 'friendly' your dog is or whatever crap they believe. Dogs and humans need manners, sadly they are not always there. The rules for my dogs are - they can approach a dog if it is offleash and 'not working' (aka, obedience etc). If the owner indicates they don't want my dog to approach, I call them straight off. They are not permitted to approach a dog who is onlead. And yes, they soon learn the rules (they seem to interpret it as being able to approach any dog which is more than 2-3 metres from a person). Having said that, my dogs over the years have never been 'social butterflies'. Some days they will say a few hellos, most days they ignore everyone else. No, they are not perfect and sometimes will go over to a dog on lead, but they are soon told to come back. Also, I am not perfect. I was down the beach the other day and was taking photos. My girl was lying down next me. I didn't realise she had got up and walked up to someone walking past with a dog on lead. The owner said 'please call your dog off', which I immediately did and apologised. No harm (she was only 2 paces away from me and is a senior, so was just standing there) - but I should not have taken my eyes off her.
  18. As a rule, I think there is less risk of issue if the third is a male - purely because I often find 2 x bitches are more prone to ongoing fighting/squabbling (whereas 2 males tend to work out who is boss and then the hierarchy is accepted and everyone moves on). The energy levels are potentially more of a discussion/decision point. What are the energy/tolerance levels of your existing dogs, will there be 'escape/timeout zones' for all parties and how will the different needs of the dogs be managed. I am sure you have thought of all of these points, but I think that would impact the gender decision quite a bit
  19. I was referencing statements I have heard and seen from breeders as reasons they dont include prices in their ads or respond/view favourably enquiries where the price is asked for early.
  20. I understand both sides of the discussion completely. I think the disconnect is that often people are coming from different (both correct, but different) sides of the coin. Pictures: Prospective buyer - what we see and how we are attracted to the visual is a fact of life (even if just at the planning stage). People want/like/are drawn to whether something appeals to them. It doesn't mean it is the only determining factor and makes someone 'shallow' or uncaring - the fact is that for many people pictures tell a story (after all, how many times do DOLers have someone come in asking for advice on a puppy issue and the response is 'I suggest XYZ - and pls post pics we would love to see your little one). Seller - two issues. (a) scammers can (and do) take photos and use them and (b) some people will get stuck on the visual and it causes friction when they focus on dog X when the dog/home mix isn't right Price: Prospective buyer - they are the ones spending the $$$. If several/all adds included the price they would know a ball park figure without having to contract/chat. Other adds (including animals) usually come with the price advertised. So, why the 'secret squirrel'? Is it a power game? Is it elitist? Does it become all too hard? These are questions which come to peoples minds. Dogs are expensive, and the purchase price is a consideration for many people. And if I end up buying the pup I am going to be paying for it - why not state it up front Seller - This dog/pup is a living breathing critter and it has so much more to offer than a price tag. I want to know the person first. And, I don't want to put up with the 'you said $4000 in your ad, I will give you $3500' Difficulty/number of contacts Prospective buyer - I don't want to jump through hoops, and wait 10 days for a response. I also have a life, and kids, and responsibilities etc, so 'the breeder is busy' does sound condescending. If the 'norm' is to contact 10 people to get 2 responses, one is a 'the dog has gone' and the other is 'please tell me more about yourself', then that just seems weird. These people have possibly just lost their 15 year old dog etc and last time they did this it was a case of looking in Saturdays paper and making a few calls. So the messages I leave/emails I send are probably too brief and come across as 'transactional' so go to the bottom of a pile. But I don't know the 'rules' of making a good first impression Seller - I have a life, and kids, and responsibilities - so I am busy. And I get so many numpty/dodgy sounding/one liner/incompatible contacts that I just can't keep up. I don't think there is a silver bullet. Perhaps as much information as possible in the ad about the dog/pup. What sort of home is best, whether he/she is big, small or right on size to the standard, temperament, whether suited to dog sports, energy levels as possible. And a standard response (either back via text or email) thanks for reaching out. I have received a number of enquiries, and will be coming back to you in a few days. That gives the seller some time to make a decision and either contact for a conversation or go back with 'sorry, Fluffy is not available because (insert reason here)'. I think silence and non responding is a tad rude, from both sides. One final thought. If breeders of pedigreed (and well bred and raised) pups/dogs want Joe Public to buy them (and not from 'Fred down the road' or a puppy farm), then it is important to understand the thought process and perceptions of Joe Public. I don't mean compromise your values or the way you look out for the best interests of your dog/pup. But being sympathetic to different approaches and questions is helpful
  21. BDJ


    Original poster - I feel for you. Crap situation that you are in, whichever way you look at it. Personally, I would be very hesitant to place your pup with anyone other than a reputable/recognised rescue (or other group with a known and verifiable history of similar) or to the AWL etc. The reason being is that unfortunately you stand a chance that it will end up in either (a) a home that also finds the behaviour a challenge/not acceptable and off loads it again or (b) a numpty who wants an 'aggressive bully breed dog' either for fighting or other harsh reality. Sometimes you will find a wonderful individual who has the experience, time, $$$ and circumstances to take your pup on and (a) find out what the issue is, (b) works to resolve it, (c) be able to resolve it and (d) gives your pup a happy and long life. Unfortunately, the chance is slim of that 'wonderful individual' turning up before it goes pear shaped in your household. If you are able to find an answer quickly (vet etc) then that is great. But realistically, a young dog who is 99% great but sometime has a 'brain fart' and for whatever reason switches to attack/bite mode is a huge red flag, and more often than not the outcome is not good.
  22. Agree that the dog was friendly, but that is really irrelevant to the impact to the family. If you are scared of something then being told to 'stay calm' during a random, unexpected and uncontrolled situation is not going to do much. For anyone who thinks that the child should not have reacted that way, imagine if that was a spider or cockroach which suddenly landed on your face (for example). 99% of people would freak out and squeak/scream, jump, wave their arms around, possibly try to hit ot and/or run like heck. That is how some people react to dogs. The real issue is the media. Never let a bit of truth/fact get in the way of a headline
  23. https://www.abc.net.au/news/2022-10-26/sunshine-coast-council-investigates-dog-killing-cat/101570120 I saw this today. Surely unless there are mitigating circumstances (previous history of attacks or disturbances etc , dog lunging and barking at passersby, totally unsuitable fences etc) then the dog owners having nothing to answer to (in my opinion). The cat was in the dogs yard - full stop. Some dogs simply aren't ok with small furry critters. If it is secured and in it's own yard (and managed appropriately when it is not in its yard), then I am not sure what the problem is. Slightly more nuanced (again my thought) that it was in the front yard rather than the back yard, but still in its own yard The victim is the cat. Horrible way to go. Interesting to know what others think.
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