BDJ

thanks sandgrubber - that is definitely a logical requirement

If the article is accurate - another example of 'one rule to fit everything' will be a fail. The exercise requirement is unnecessary, unrealistic and will rob many dogs and humans of wonderful relationships. My SWF has never been a 'walker'. Even as a young dog he didn't enjoy long walks. Around the block, to a park for a potter and down the beach - loves them all (both as a young dog and now he is older). 'going for a walk' - nope - he does it, but it clearly doesn't float his boat. My brother has a disability which makes walking difficult. He has a whippet which leads the life of Riley. Is with him constantly, sleeps on the bed and has toys and games and goes to a park regularly (certainly not daily). Sometimes I take him for a walk, but it is semi-regular at best. The dog is also not a 'walker' - a couple of suburban blocks has him happy to come home. He enjoys going out, but I would challenge anyone who said he was 'deprived' or ill treated. Exercise needs to meet the needs of the dog - and walking is only one form. I applaud the idea of making sure animals have full and rich lives - but no-one would expect all humans to have the same desires and capability when it comes to exercise and lifestyle - so why would dogs all have 'cookie cutter' needs?

I am not an expert, but from my understanding the reason why backtracking can confuse the dog is because of the amount of scent. IE - I am running north for 1 km and then stop and start running back the way I came. After 250m I turn left (if the terrain is helpful there may be a ditch I can jump over or something else that limits the evidence of my turn). Dog starts tracking and heads north. When he gets to the 750m (where I turned off) he has a very strong scent going straight ahead (double scent) which he would follow. He then gets to the 1km mark and the scent 'disappears'. Even when he scouts, he would probably wouldnt go back 250m. Does that make sense? Re tracking in a single direction, I imagine they are trained to follow the scent as it gets stronger (thus the way the person is moving) - but if due to age of trail or limited time difference from beginning to end, then I think it would be doable. Again - I am no expert - the above is just based on conversations many (too many :-)) years ago when i had friends who did tracking and I spent many hours in paddocks etc as one of their 'tracklayers': :-)

I haven't looked at it - but from what is above, it is not worth the pixels it costs. The difference between identify and authenticate is massive. All this will do is identify a prefix exists, not authenticate those who are using it. The dodgy will simply ring a breeder and ask for the membership number so they can check it with the ANKC. Then use that information to pose as the person. mmmmmmmmmmm

Very difficult for you and your family, but I fear it is more difficult for your dog at the moment. I truly appreciate what you are going through, have been there. I would like to comment on the information you gave that your sister will pick him up etc. This WILL cause him pain. It is not possible for one person (or even two) to pick up a large dog without squishing or holding bits firmly. If you put your arm under his bum, the hips are being squished. If you put you arm under his belly, you are putting pressure on the belly, his spine will be impacted and his hind legs and hips will be left dangling and unsupported. This is no issue with a sound dog - people do it all the time. But he is not sound. Also, some dogs simply don't tell you when something hurts. I know a whippet who cracked a shoulder blade. Owner (very knowledgeable) knew she had injured something, but had no idea what. Vet (very good and experienced greyhound and whippet vet) could find nothing on exam. He did every manipulation and pressure test. She told him nothing (even subtle stiffening, muscle twitch). Finally, he got an eye roll at the shoulder. Xray showed she had cracked it straight though. Thankfully rest fixed it as no displacement etc. She was in pain, but she was a stubborn and tough witch. I know what I would do, and to be honest (on the information given) I would have already done it. Tough, tears and sorrow - but it is our responsibility to be the grown ups at these times, and being a grown up means making truly sucky decisions sometimes.

As persephone said - it is not realistic to expect compensation for something just because someone says it's so. Regardless of whether it is a puppy, a horse or a dishwasher - contacting someone and saying 'there is an issue, I won't provide any information - but give me money' is (at best) naive and unrealistic or (at worst) likely to escalate and become nasty. I would strongly recommend putting everything in writing (email, SMS, snail mail). Even if the conversation is verbal, make (and keep) notes and follow up in writing (... thanks for the information/update, as I said ... here are my vet details/please send me XYZ/who is your vet etc/I am happy to take back the puppy and return your money.... whatever). No ones memory is perfect, so it is useful for all parties. Assuming it is above board and not someone trying the shonk, they are most likely extremely stressed and scared about their new family member, and quite possibly are getting some silly advice (could be anything from 'they (the breeder) HAS to .......' or 'dont tell them anything, they will use it against you' or something equally unhelpful. Which is another reason why putting something in writing is helpful, they can read it later when they are not as emotion and may later realise the request is common sense.

I collected a puppy that was about the same distance away years ago, and going by car (with another driver) was a huge success. Puppy got to know us gently (hearing, smelling us etc without pressure if that makes sense), and the car (and crate) became his safe space. The crate was on the back seat and after a while we opened the crate door and he could chose to stay in or come out on to the back seat. Frequent (puppy timed) comfort stops also meant he was house trained on the way. He never made a mistake in the house when we got home. Please note - this was long before dog seatbelts and tethering a dog in the car was unheard of - so our set up worked then, perhaps not now. BUT - our pup was an amazing traveller. I imagine it would quickly become a horror trip if the pup wouldn't settle and whinged constantly (GSD's can be 'talkative' :-)) or even worse - ypou were stuck with a carsick who drooled and hurled the whole way :-( I have flown other pups and they came through it without a care - very tired, but not stressed. Not sure if the above rambling helped :-)

thanks everyone - I will pass on all the information, really helpful :-)

thanks Jemappelle - certainly did. I tried googling Shih Tzu - and kept getting crossbred groups. aaahhhh. A lot harder now than it was before :-)

Hi, A friend of mine is looking for a dog, and is very keen on the Shih Tzu. About them: It is a working household, but staggered hours and several days working from home, so the dog would be home alone at times, but not a lot No dogs currently, but have had dogs before - so know the ropes, and the dog would genuinely be part of the household Want a puppy, preferably from SA (only 2 breeders in the directory, so not sure if SA would work) I only know the breed in general, but they have always struck me as happy, sensible and good little citizens (as always, nature and nurture) Health wise they seem pretty good - PRA, patella's and entropia seem to be the common issues - is there anything I have missed? Would love to hear peoples experiences with the breed (good or not so good), recommendations on breeders (SA or interstate), other things to consider, or even other breeds (Cavaliers appealed to them, but I have heard so many horror health stories - but would love to hear that either I am wrong, or there are 'safer' lines/breeders ....... I suggested Havanese.) thanks

Hi, Hope your mum is feeling better soon. I agree with a vet check to start - it's possible he has been losing hearing/eyesight gradually (so not noticed), and the change in circumstances have added another dimension to his confidence level. Animals are so tuned to nuances - I assume she has had him all (or at least most of) his life, so he would have completely picked up that she is not well and the different activities/visitors/coming and going will be adding to his stress. Even if he is not showing it, he will be a very confused and upset boy at the moment. Is he destructive? If not, can he be left inside when she goes out? It may not work (worst case scenario he will go through a window - so need to test and be careful before doing it), but I know when there are significant changes in my house, the dogs are more comfortable in the house - they find their spot and settle. If he is safe with windows, he can also 'keep watch' and see if the car is there and know when it comes in the driveway. A determined fence jumper is extremely hard to fix. I am assuming it is a new problem, which (with the changes) mean he is very determined, and unless the fence is not very long and has easy access, then it could be father costly. Containment is probably easiest - but unless he is comfortable in the space, it would be terrible for him mentally, so it would need to be the right solution, Re the night time situation - can the back door be left open or a doggie door installed? That way he can take himself out when needed. I can't offer any any help with the pad training, sorry. Good luck with whatever you choose

The showring conversation has been going on for decades - 'look' v 'what the breed was originally bred for'. Many, many moons ago (25-30 years) I showed shetland sheepdogs. Had a bitch that was sound as a bell with the most amazing movement, great outline, fantastic attitude, lots of positives. BUT, she had two faults - heavy ears (not out of standard, but too heavy) and not the most appealing markings. Her head was good overall, and her ears weren't horrible, but were heavy. She titled easily, won her class at the Royal, won many BIGs etc, but if the judge was looking for the 'pretty, glamour puff', then my girl was probably not their cup of tea. I remember one show in particular - the judge took ages to award challenge - it was between me and another bitch. The other bitch was a 'chocolate box sheltie'. Sweet expression, gorgeous colour, great coat etc - but could not move out of sight on a black night. It was around the ring, stack, around the ring, stack (multiple times). He then gave it to the other bitch (oh well, we won lots, but got beaten lots - that's showing). BUT - he made a fool out of himself (in my eyes) in two ways. (A) - he gave it to the other bitch whilst we were moving (should have done it when we were lined up) and (B) when he gave me reserve he said 'sorry, I had to weigh up what was the bigger issue - ears or movement). Again, I had zero issues being beaten - she was a lovely bitch overall. What it did demonstrate to me was that the fundamental purpose of the breed was not a consideration (at least in that case )

Hi - about as late as possible for 2019, but this is Daisy - helping me change the linen on my bed (then she saw something interesting out the window and I was able to snap this :-)) Loving all the photos

It is hard - so much ignorance must become hard to ignore. I don't know Rotti's well, but everyone I have known have been wonderful, gentle dogs. My only advise is to 'be alert but not alarmed' (showing my age here Mr Howard :-)). He is only 9 months, so he is not fully matured. When he gets older he may start to 'push his luck' or have times when he is being a 'jerk' - and because of his size and jaw strength the impacts (and response by other people) of that behaviour will be different than if the same activity was done my a (for example) sheltie or whippet. Most dogs who go through the 'teenage' stage start with body language (this the alert comment), so you can 'nip it in the bud' if needed. But if he is a well adjusted young citizen, I don't think he would go Cujo without notice. I would love to suggest a good response to the comments, but I am not that witty unfortunately :-)

Whilst the idea of a register sounds good in theory, there are lots of drawbacks (some noted above). Another one is that a breeder can have a sound line and be doing everything they can (so be rated well on a registry), and then one of those 'things' crop up that has causation linked to genetics, how they are raised, nutrition and just plain luck (eg: HD) - the owner is then looking at the breeder, the vets and the registry as dodgy, unethical and untrustworthy

To me it depends on the 'non dog' persons attitude - are they neutral or against? If one person in the household just isn't in to dogs - then that is fine, as long as one (or more) people are, then it will most probably work as the dog (or whichever pet) will get the interaction, care etc that's needed. But if someone is against the pet idea - then there will most likely be friction etc. EG: Dog barks a couple of times (even the quietest dog will hear/see something). If that is met with yelling/blaming etc, then it will go pear shaped quickly. Dogs are going to bark, dig, annoy, shed, interfere, get in the way, cost money etc etc. If that is understood accepted, then these things soon are ignored/forgotten in the whole picture and the good far outweighs these things. But if the 'no dog' person says - you can have one as long as it doesn't bark, shed, dig etc etc - and especially if they are not the most tolerant person - then it will be an issue. Back to the question about 'which type' - I would recommend not a working/herding breed or a terrier due to energy and intensity levels - perhaps a whippet (as long as it clearly knows chasing cats is not on :-))

Given it was there and easily felt at 8 weeks, I would give it a bit longer before being too worried. Did you feel it at 8 weeks? I am wondering where it was (they can be very high and able to be gently moved down, or they can be actually down). If you don't know how to check yourself, it may be beneficial to find out how - then you can check him quietly. I have known 'shy' boys who were very hard to check when they were stressed or excited (like at a vets) - but they were easily found when checking them gently when they were nice and quietly sitting on the lounge in the evening. By 4 months I would want them to be 'findable' in some way, and at 6-7 months I would want them fully down. Some boys have them showing loud and proud at 8 weeks, others have one (or both) who move up and down for a while.

You may be surprised at the condition of his back teeth once they are cleaned. I have just had a dental done on my SWF. I knew he would need to have teeth removed, but neither the vet or I knew how many until he was under. He ended up having all incisors removed (a couple were ok, but leaving just a few odd ones would have caused more issues than taking them all out). His back teeth looked dodgy, but all they needed was a good clean. So now he has a perfect mouth from his canines back, but nothing across the front. I wouldn't remove good teeth just to avoid a possible surgery later on, but if they are terrible, then even if it is a big procedure, it would be better than him living with mouth pain. Animals are too stoic for their own good, particularly when it is not something they can hold up like a paw A cat story - years ago I had an old cat. Her teeth were bad, but after discussion with the vet we decided not to remove them as she had such a tiny mouth he was concerned she may end up with a broken/weak jaw due to the roots being so big. She was an old girl and as she started to slow down and sleep more I initially put it down to age. But after 6 months I went back and told him that even though she was eating etc, I thought it was pain, and that I wanted the surgery - with full understanding that if he encountered significant issues with her bottom jaw I understood that he may have to put her down on the table. I have never cried so much - she got through the surgery so well and within a week I had my 'kitten' back - playing, running, talking, stalking me in the bedroom etc etc. Her mouth must have been so painful - and it was on my watch. I have never felt so guilty.

thanks Scratch - will check both out Boronia - thanks for the suggestion, but I would prefer one that was purpose built for the arm (which I need) - she is a 'special' one :-D

Hi, I have a RC collie, and to groom her myself I need a proper grooming table (with the arm for her lead etc). I used to show, so know how to groom etc (that part is not a problem), but she is a bit of a precious child (most polite term I could find :-D) so I need the right set up. IE - if the table is not completely stable she will make it worse by shaking, shuddering etc. If she is not tied, she wiggles, fights, complains etc. In a nutshell - if the set up is right, she is an angel. If it is not the right set up, you would swear she has never been groomed in her life (and she is a fully trained ex-show dog - so she knows what to do, she just also knows how to get around things). I have been getting her done at a grooming place - but that is silly expensive and inconvenient - so I am going to get a table and do it myself. Any suggestions on either where to buy a good second hand one, or recommendations on a new one? It will only be used at home, so features such as being light, easy to move, fits well in cars, looks new etc aren't important. Just needs to be a safe, sturdy table thanks

I think there are two different situations in play - the anxiousness, and one of the ways it is being exhibited (barking). Working on the anxiety is a must and is a long term management situation. I don't imagine that anyone who has responded believes otherwise. BUT - having a dog who continually barks to the point that three different sets of neighbours have lodged formal complaints, is an issue that needs to be addressed as well. I would imagine having an owner who was (totally understandably) agitated with each bark would not create the calm environment that is right to help a dog relax. A barking dog can result in neighbour complaints (already happened x 3), council issues (already happened x 3) , being forced to move ((already happened x 2), PLUS worried about some crackpot taking matters in their own hand and opening a gate, poisoning a dog etc etc (already threatened). And until the anxiety is controlled, it is difficult to identify the root cause. The barking may be completely as a result of the anxiety, or it may also be a learned behaviour, or she may just be a noisy dog - or it could be a combination of all three. Debarking is surgery - so it has the risks of every surgery - and as I said, should never be a decision made lightly. However, my thought is that if it results in lowering the anxiety in the owner, the neighbours and the dog (no collars, no being told to be quiet etc), then it is not cruel when other things have been tried. It will remove one part of a complex problem

I am sitting writing this listening to 'huff huff' coming from my suburban backyard at 7.30am on a public holiday - and neither Belle or I could care less :-). The backdoor is open and 5 mins ago Belle was sitting with me (as my other dog is still doing) - then Belle heard something (or nothing) and ran out the back huffing. Her voice sounds like a quiet cough - she can hear it, but it is very quiet so not offensive at all. If it is late at night with no ambient noise, I can just hear it from the front of the house if she is in the backyard. Noisy traffic, lawnmowers etc drown it out completely. She is not an anxious dog, but is sensitive and 'soft' in temperament. If she wasn't debarked, she couldn't live in suburbia, and even on more land, would be a wreck as she would constantly be getting told to be quiet - she seriously never shuts up, she makes her own stimuli if there isn't any :-). She actually enjoys barking (or huffing) - in her case it is a joy. But debarked, she is happy and healthy. Her temperament is what it is, but she is never told to be quiet (or in anyway limited) - and she loves to bark:-) I don't believe it should be the first solution (or even the second or third) - but when it is required, it is a blessing. Find the right vet, ask plenty of questions, make sure they have a good success rate regarding the right volume - and then I recommend it. You will be amazed at how much stress will be removed from you, your girl and the neighbourhood.

I am extremely lucky as have 2 unfenced 'dog park' areas near me. One is about 2 acres, several large grass areas with pockets of old gums scattered around. The other follows a water way (sometimes 20m wide beside it, other areas opening up to 80-100 m wide. Not sure how long, I have walked 2km and not found the end). And, I have dogs with good recalls, so can let them run/wander without worrying they will tick off. These are great - if I come across a dog that is too full on or pushy we simply move to another area. Touch wood I have not experienced an aggressive dog there - I am guessing because its unfenced they don't go there as they can't control it. I did go to one of the smaller fenced dog parks once - didn't like it. The ground was hard/stoney, too many dogs chucked in together getting in each others space. Even if that was my only choice I don't think I would go there. A friend of mine has a dog with a dicky recall (works perfectly when he can 'hear' his owner, but strangely suffers from periodical deafness ). Once a week they travel to the other side of Adelaide where there is a fenced dog park which is a full oval - its huge and is lovely grass. A perfect solution for them

My brothers whippet absolutely loves the water - will happily dive in regardless of how choppy it is. This morning it was beautiful - and I was pleased to snap these This one looks like he is all alone This one shows the ball he was retrieving :-)

I have looked at both videos -and I did not see any aggression - I saw a happy, confident puppy who wanted attention and has worked out how to get it. Extremely difficult, but when those needles (teeth :-)) nip, jumping and going 'ouch' is a perfect response in his world - so much fun. I think he is a cheeky poppitt who knows he is well loved and the centre of attention - and boy, is he is doing what any youngster (dog or child) will do. An idea is if he is barking and bouncing for attention - try growling (literally grrrrrr - doesn't need to be over loud or threatening, it is an expression of displeasure - mid level volume and 'sharp/quick' - hard to explain, think verbal nose tap) and then ignore him. Often that works. The plan is that the 'grrr' would have him putting 4 feet back on the ground and stopping the bark, and then ignoring him is 'oh - well that didn't work'. Think a child coming up constantly and interrupting an adult conversation (attention seeking interruption - not something wrong) and every time the adult conversation stops, both adults acknowledge the child, one of them bends down to eye level and spends time explaining that they are talking and they really, really will play after, but would it be ok if they let mummy have a few minutes to talk with their friend, they then walk the child back to wherever they were playing etc etc. The child comes back 5 mins later and the whole thing is repeated. Each time the child gets 5 mins of attention - they don't care that the adult has said "NO' - they wanted attention and that's what they got. The other option is, first time there child interrupts, make sure nothing is wrong, and do what happened in the other example (explain, walk the child back to the play area etc), the next interruption adult looks at the child and says 'enough - I told you not to interrupt, go back to playing please' and then goes back to the conversation - neither adult stops talking to each other and ignore that the child then sits on the floor, tugs on mums dress and then moves around in eye line of the adults. After about 2 mins the child goes back to playing - they wanted attention and they didn't get it. Without the 'reward' of attention it was boring. Obviously this is not every time - children (and pups) thrive on interaction and fun. But sometimes you need to be the adult in the relationship and set the boundaries. There is a time for play, and a time for quiet. And quiet usually starts with no stimulii (all of this is easier said than done - pups are cute and who can't smile just by looking at them :-))