espinay2

I know Lew - the person who wrote the articles - and she is a fairly thorough researcher. What she has presented is the known research available on the issue. She has also presented it is a form for lay people to understand. The evidence is 'flimsy' as to date this is the only evidence available. The only source of most (if not all) research into animal (dog and cat) nutrition are pet food companies. They are generally the only ones that have the money to do it - no real 'independent' research gets done in this field unfortunately (and unfortunately as a result, research results which the pet food companies don't want known tends to get buried - I have seen people lose their funding and their jobs over research that was not in the companies interests). Of course if anyone has the money to fund an independent study or knows someone who will, please step forward. I know a LOT of people who would appreciate not having to prostitute themselves to the pet food companies to get their work done! On a personal note - I feed raw. I feed them a low/no carb diet and the diet is high in protien (quality protein in the form of raw meats). Probably a lot higher than any commercial pet foods available. The only modification I make to the adult diet is to feed more meat (protein) and a little less bone (calcium) to a growing pup. I am extremely pleased with the results from this type of diet.

It is not the amount of protein that is important, but the quality of the protien. Here are two excellent articles on the topic: Protein in the Diet: http://b-naturals.com/Nov2005.php Protien amounts and Puppies: http://b-naturals.com/Jan2004.php

Easiest way to stop a dog jumping up is to teach it to sit. If you give the dog something to do OTHER than jumping up and consistently reward them (with pats/treats etc) for doing that while consistently not rewarding the jumping up, in time you should have no problem. Note here the important thing is to be CONSISTENT

Yes, but as a horse lover/owner I am personally ok with that. It used to be that feeding a beloved hunter to the hounds was an honour. I generally don't feed horse meat (although have on occasion), but I like to see first hand just where my meat comes from and play a role in choosing the bits I want. It is probably in many ways a lot fresher and cleaner than a lot of meat bought third or fourth hand at a butcher shop. But then I am not squeamish about meat or its origins, having being raised in the country where we killed our own stock and having worked in Zoos and conservation facilities feeding lions and wolves. I do realise that others may not share this outlook. JMHO

As already said - no need to mince. In fact the larger the piece the better as then they get exercise ripping, tearing and chewing. Great for the teeth, and great physical and mental exercise too. I dont know Sydney's geography very well, but a good place particularly for buying in bulk is Burns Pet Foods which is at the corner of Windsor and Garfield Roads in Riverstone.

I currently have a six month old who has just been through the up and down that sideways thing for the last couple of months (while teething etc as well). Lovely and straight now, but always a worry when it is happening, isn't it. I feed raw and pup is supplemented with vitamin C daily. What I did though is REDUCE the amount of bone in the diet, or rather feed a higher percentage of meat without bone during this period. For example, I may give a chunk of boneless meat for breakfast and chicken pieces/frames/turkey necks/lamb flaps or other boney style meats etc for dinner. He was still getting plenty of calcium - just not too much. I found that if I fed 'boney' meals in the night as well as the morning for too many days he would go 'off' but would come back together when I changed one meal to an all meat or mostly meat meal. Some things I suggest reading are the articles on the website www.b-naturals.com - particularly the ones on protein and pups and raising puppies - and Ian Billinghursts book "grow your pups with bones". While I do things differently from them, and dont agree with everything they say, they do talk about some of the basic principles that I have applied in relation to calcium etc. FWIW

Good to be back Thanks!

Today I saw the opposite effect - my dogs have been on a raw diet for years. I have a 6 month old pup in training at the moment. He is energetic at the best of times but today I happened to use some commercial treats as I had forgotten my usual ones for training. After coming home after training all I can say is that this pup was 'overstimulated' and like a kid on red cordial! LOL! He had wide wild eyes and was VERY fidgetty and jumpy. Back to more natural training treats for us!

I have Pyrenean Mountain Dogs. the types of bones they get are: Chicken frames and quarters Lamb flaps and necks Beef brisket and any other parts I can get from my supplier including ribs/flaps, backbones and neck (they usually dont eat the whole bone of the necks!) kangaroo tails pork trotters, hocks, or tails (which include part of the backbone) duck carcasses or quarters of boiler ducks turkey necks or frames I dont give beef marrow/leg bones. Too hard and not enough meat on them to be of any real use as a meal. they also get big chunks of boneless beef on occasion (think roast size) as well as things like heart/liver/kidney in smaller quantities.

I have their deluxe heated twin tank model. :rolleyes: I did a lot of research when I bought it as I was wary of the use of 'plastic'. The 'plastic' they use however, is unlike any other type I have seen used (certainly not the same as any other model dog bath or hydrobath I have heard of). I doubt they are the same thing workingdogs is talking about. Certainly the one I have does not bend in any way, shape or form and is extremely sturdy even with a 75kg Pyrenean in it (it actually seems less flimsy than many of the fiberglass ones I have used ), nor does it seem to be the type of material that would 'chip'. Everyone needs to do their own research however, I can only recount my own experience with this particular product.

I have one of the BARF shop ones and I have bee very happy with it. Very solid, big enough to take my biggest dogs and low enough for a shorta*se like me to reach to the bottom, even with it on a trolley. I have had it for almost 2 years, and even with it kept outside (albeit under the house eaves and with a BBQ cover over it) it shows no signs of stress, weathering or the like even with regular (though not quite full on commercial) use.

You will always get those - vets breeders or otherwise - who don't agree. We have them in my breed too - those who feed a dry food only for example (and not always a premium brand), claim to have 'healthy' dogs and disagree strongly with the feeding of a raw foods (or even any type of home prepared) diet. I remember coming across this atitude years ago when I first became involved in discussing a raw foods diet with others in my breed and it is interesting that the same people who had those beliefs then, usually still have them now. Setting up the raw feeding list for my breed all those years ago, I was sure it would be closed in a matter of months due to lack of interest. Certainly in the beginning only a few people joined and at times the list has been so quiet I was sure it was done for. Over the years though, more and more breeders and owners have changed for one reason or another. Many changed because they weren't happy or were trying to fix problems. Others saw the better health of other breeders dogs and decided to give it a try. Others were part way there already and simply took the final step when the information became available to them. Most have done it quietly and have not been overly vocal about it. We made a list of raw feeding breeders on our list a few months ago. The number who were now feeding a raw diet in our little international community surprised even me. Some quite well known names on that list too - not just newer breeders. So, those who disagree can go on disagreeing. I don't worry too much about them now (though it used to annoy me a LOT). I just go on doing my own thing, while making sure the information is readily available for those who are ready to seek it.

When I board my dogs I take their food with them packaged into daily lots to be divided out between them. The manager of the kennel I use (Sibe breeder/exhibitor) feeds raw to his own dogs (although the kennel itself uses dry food for boarders as their 'default') so I have no worry that he knows what he is doing.

Whether they own a franchise or not I would be wanting to know their experience. While I did own a franchise for several years before going out on my own, the number of people with no real grooming and even general dog knowledge who owned them used to (and still does) make me shudder. I was shocked how easy it was to just buy a franchise and start grooming without having a clue what they were doing past the basic 'you give the dog a bath'. Personally I would probably steer clear of the franchise if you are not sure exactly what or who you will be getting.

I like the baby powder sented one. Very nice. Plush Puppy Odour Muncher isn't bad either. Most often for groom dogs I use a couple that I buy through Petnetwork. Lavender for 'girls' and for the 'boys' who are just a bit macho for lavender I use one called 'Cairo' which smells a bit like Aramis. Yum!! These two have always been very popular with my customers.

For a professional groomer? MOST DEFINITELY only one dog per wash. IMHO it is VERY important to maintain hygiene and not cross contaminate dogs - even dogs from the same family. I also use one dog per wash for my own dogs. They just don't get as clean as I would like otherwise and again, even though they live together, I would prefer not to cross contaminate them either.

Ok, it is no state secret , so I will post info here: Charlie the Clipperman (also called 'Just Right Sharpening' I think) 279 Lawrence Road Mt Waverley VIC 3149 Ph (03) 9884 5777

If the one in Vic is the one I think it is (and it probably is as Charlie is a gem ) then it is well worth sending to them to be done from WHEREVER you are in this country. I can express post from Canberra on a Monday, including another return addressed express post envelope in the bag, and they will be back on the Wednesday in fantastic condition. They are just the best.

I love hearing success stories like this. Big hugs to Tyra!

I have to agree, if a dog can't be groomed safely, I have no hesitation in referring them to the vets for sedation and shaving. I too have done a few dogs where the owner has administered vet prescribed sedative, but this too can be dangerous - sometimes even moreso as while the dogs reacions may be slowed, they can still sometimes wake up and/or put in a good bite when you are not expecting it! It is also an additional liability on the groomer to monitor their health - drugs are not lollies after all and can have unexpected side effects at times up to and including death. Better it is done with a vet handy to quickly deal with any problems should they arise.

Yes, tell us your grooming problems and perhaps we can help. Definitely talk to your vet about any types or amounts of medication to be prescribed

Fingers crossed!

Fabulous! If she keeps this up she will be turning into a garbage guts and you will be trying to keep the weight OFF! Keep up the good work!

Your local vet should be able to order a T4 panel for you. They will probably need to take a blood sample and send it out for testing. Good for you for starting a BARF/raw diet. I have had great results with this diet in terms of health and coat quality etc. Supplement-wise I recommend putting your dogs on a fish oil supplement. I agree with SR's recommendations when it comes to books. Some very good choices there. I too would not bother too much with the Bark Busters one.

We dont have to worry about Aujeszky disease in pork here in Australia. It has never occurred here.