Cosmolo

If i was you i would go down without your pup first to see what the other owners and dogs are like- how much control they have, how good the dogs are etc. We have an excellent off lead park that we used to go to but i'm hesitant to go to any that i don't know. You should also have a good understanding of dog body language and how to prevent problems when going to an off lead park.

Good on you for adopting a shelter dog. I would suggest contacting the shelter and asking them- often they have a vet that your able to see at no or little charge if the dog has a pre existing problem appear within a certain time period. If it is a stone bruise or similar that has occured after adoption, then there may be a small fee but at least you know whats going on. Otherwise take the dog to your vet.

I would not be concerned with your pup being a little shy and withdrawn- i would be extremely concerned about the instructor letting it get to a point where your pup was cowering after another pup tried to pick a fight! That is absolutely not acceptable and should not be permitted in a puppy class. Have you spoken to your puppy instructor about the problems with walking on the lead?

Aloveen for me :rolleyes:

Just make sure your not rewarding any fearful responses from your older dog. Be as confident as you possibly can so she can take cues from you. Pull out her favourite toy to play with when the puppy is around to try and get her into drive. Do some obedience that she finds fun and rewarding when the puppy is around but at a distance. Read up on leadership as well

I agree with Tonymc. You need to set the dog up in any way, shape or form and then administer a correction. Pt a juicy steak on the edge of the bench and then bring him in on lead. A dog like him is pretty likely to try and at least put his paws up on the bench with that kind of temptation. Its hard to explain online but i set clients dog ups regularly and teach them that whatever is on the bench is completely unatainable. You need to put everything away when your not there to train or supervise so that he doesn't keep constantly winning. Alternately, you could try a zone from innotek www.innotek.com.au Won't solve the problem but might manage it.

Great question myzka. Here's what i think - Any person who advertises private training of any kind is required to be an accredited trainer, to have completed a nationally recognised Australian course. - Any group or club training must be registered with the VCA OR be under the direct supervision of an accredited trainer. For those clubs who are VCA registered but do not have accredited trainers, they must not attempt to deal with problems outside the scope of general obedience. Behaviour problems including but not limited to aggression, anxiety and excessive barking must be referred either to an accredited trainer at the club OR to an accredited trainer outside the club I don't think the regulatory body would have to get involved in methods and tools except to say that cruelty is not permitted which is the case under the animal welfare act anyway. Anybody who is accredited would have knowledge and experience regarding tools and their use, even if they then choose not to use them.

;) Absolutely agree Jeff. It is an industry that is screaming for a governing body with powers. Joe bloggs from down the road can't come and rewire my house so why should he be able to train someone else's dog? I saw an 11 month old dog with serious aggression issues yesterday that should never have happened- the owners received bad advice from 2 different training 'groups' that leaves me shaking my head..

You must get some training witha qualified reputable trainer sooner rather than later. All of the problems you mention can be resolved if you get on top of them but will escalate if you don't. Perhaps if you mention whereabouts you're located, we can recommend a good trainer for you.

I commend you for coming on here and posting as you have but do have a couple of questions- - What formal qualifications do you possess? - Where and how have you developed your techniques (whatever they are) over time? - Do you refer on serious cases of aggression to a qualified behaviourist? - Your comments on e collars, correction chains etc concern me. A good trainer understands the use of many different tools (even if choosing not to use them) and i would like to know what experience and training you have with them? What about dogs that have already desensitised to a soft collar? Of course you don't have to answer any of these things, but perhaps it would give everyone a better understanding without you having to explain the particular client further

Vickie, that is certainly not what i think. However i do feel that Andoria has been given similar advice a number of times in the public forum which has remained unheeded. My thoughts are simply that a private message may be more effective in dealing with the issue/ getting Andoria's attention.

Because it appears to have the nature of a more private suggestion/ conversation?

Andoria- most dogs don't 'like to bite'. The only dogs i know that do are carefully trained police or personal protection dogs. And the fact that he is an ACD makes it no different. To the OP, a good trainer would be able to help you and the dog and find the best technique to suit you both. There are many equipment options that can help but only when they are used correctly.

Sorry if this is off topic but do those of you with multiple dogs have different release words for your dogs or teach them to release on their name as well? Mine all have the same release but will release one by one on their name .

I feel that i am very lucky to be able to watch the interactions between our 4 dogs as it teaches me something new on a regular basis. I can walk all 4 together without too much of a problem, they don't compete with each other as it doesn't get them what they want anyway. The only reason why i avoid having all 4 dogs on my own in certain situations is because our newest dog will sometimes 'spook' at people or noises and if she panics, it can be difficult to deal with with 3 other dogs right there. The good thing is that they take absolutely no notice of her whatsover- i think they think she's being a bit ridiculous! Couple of other interesting things- our second youngest dog had always been at the bottom of the pack until the youngest and newest came along. The 2 young girls play together all the time but when Cosmo (older) tries to tell Georgie (youngest) off, it is rarely effective as she has never done it before. So, on occasion, Jess (older head of pack) will intervene and back up Cosmo to give Georgie an effective correction. Just love being able to watch and learn- we are very lucky.

Ditto what PF and Erny said. I would like to know how the trainer knows where the emails came from and i think 'hundreds' may be a slight exageration. In any case, by using the language you did, you may have alienated a number of experienced trainers from replying to your furture threads.

Just for the record- i have never received a client from this forum and thats not why i come on here. If you knew anything about me and my business, you would know that my motivation is not financial gain. Perhaps you need some training and socialisation kool? staff n toller

Toohey- what you did with that pup sounds fantastic to me. So no need for the 'buy a smaller dog' comment. If more people were willing and/ or able to do what you did, we wouldn't be having this conversation.

Toohey- i am honestly pleased that you had that experience but please don't think that is the case for all dogs. For those of you who doubt critical periods and the issues that can arise- i suggest you read some of the many scientific studies that have been done. My opinions are based on factual evidence- not anecdotes and hearsay. And i have experience with the horrors of parvo virus as well. I have seen that it is a horrible disease that i would wish on no one, i have sat with a dying fully vaccinated dog infected with the virus and been present when countless innocent puppies have been euthanased as a result of parvo. But i have also seen the terrible issues that arise from dogs who did not receive sufficient socialisation during their critical period and that is also a fate i would wish on no one. Thats why i encourage people to find a middle ground with their pups

Kool- your statement clearly illustrates your ignorance regarding a dogs critical period. Perhaps if you had experience with a dog with critical period issues, you would think differently.

Kool- why do you bother posting if you are not prepared to assist people with genuine enquiries. It seems all you want to do is clog up a thread with no real valuable input. Different perspectives are great and i don't quite understand why you're so unwilling to share yours?

kool- do your pups get any socialisation? And you still didn't say what research you base your theories on??

To my knowledge- every 2 weeks until 12 weeks, then every month until 6 months, then every 3 months.

Kool- how do you socialise your dogs?

Kool- how much research have you done into a dogs critical period? Just wanting to know if your decision is an informed one?